Lady Vadalon Swiss Cheese LST

i love diy ,led, and am interested in the swiss cheese! so im subbed:rocker:

Welcome :high-five: BigIrishDoode,

This journal is moving slow but, I am going to start manipulating them soon. The other two journals/projects are closer to 12/12. Well, the BWS is going to 12/12 today and Journal 2--- 6 weeks after the first one.

I have been trying to figure out why it is so willowy? The mother plant was strong. Do you have any input on this. I know, I need to get some photos up to get some input.

Happy to have you along:)
 
Lady V.,

Ok. So I'm caught up. PPM for us simply means how much stuff is in the water. High PPM = lots of stuff! low = not so lots...lol. Follow the nutrient schedule that works for you.

Willowy...lol. Get some more air moving around the plants they will naturally strengthen as a result.

Obtw... Got your PM the other day. Gonna sit down with wifey tonight to discuss.

Oh, you never told me why not a 3-4 week flower but I'm taking your advice anyway and have since gotten an explanation why not...but you were first to set me straight...lol.

Renegade
 
Lady V.,

Ok. So I'm caught up. PPM for us simply means how much stuff is in the water. High PPM = lots of stuff! low = not so lots...lol. Follow the nutrient schedule that works for you.

Willowy...lol. Get some more air moving around the plants they will naturally strengthen as a result.

Obtw... Got your PM the other day. Gonna sit down with wifey tonight to discuss.

Oh, you never told me why not a 3-4 week flower but I'm taking your advice anyway and have since gotten an explanation why not...but you were first to set me straight...lol.

Renegade

LOL....Glad to here that I did not open mouth and insert foot :) about the 3 to 4 week bloom. I get uncomfortable about giving advice on the threads. I got straitened out a few times. I truly thought that the water leaves with high humidity is what would make them large or keep making them get bigger and dropping the humidity the plant would not be focused on moister. Or, something like that. I don't know how to put it into words. Growing outside it would make sense so the plant can store water for later and inside they don't have to worry about latter. I was getting huge fan leaves and my plants were not really growing so, when I dropped my humidity to 30--50% weather pending after I pinched them off they took off. Now I am using Co2 so I need the high humidity. Ok, that was my whimper for the moment..:)

I will add a second fan to that tent and see if that will help.:hmmmm:maybe not yet. They are really flexible right now and with all the plant drama, I can still manipulate them. They are a bit big to do LA's fluxing but, they are very bendy and that might be to my advantage. Then put the fan on them. I am making salve today. The weather is nice so, I can air my house out while it is cooking. Writing all the how to down made it look complicated :thedoubletake:

All that PPM stuff how do you even know what is in the water? Is that before you add nuts or after? I don't remember where I was last night but, someone had said to not PH the water if using soil. I wanted to say something about my own experience about not doing the PHing and the repercussions of not doing so. :wood: I hope that was not an inappropriate thing to say on my thread?

That is one big project you have going. I hope that it fits together as smooth and slick as oil or sticks together like a nice stack of trichomes :) It was good to hear from you.
Stay Green, Healthy and Happy.
:green_heart:
 
Hope plants are looking great! I just finished breezing through Jorge Cervantes mmj horticulture. Something that stuck out, I'd like to pass on regarding your co2 (I'm no expert, just trying to pass in knowledge for better weed) it basically said using co2 enrichment is null using fluorescent lights, in that it doesn't produce enough Light for the plant to process the extra co2. I'm not sure if your trying to enhance co2 levels, or just maintain them in a sealed room. Maybe consider upgraded lighting, or hold off on the co2 until you can. (Again not trying to step on toes, just pass on useful techniques, and see everyone get the most green for your $$)
 
Hope plants are looking great! I just finished breezing through Jorge Cervantes mmj horticulture. Something that stuck out, I'd like to pass on regarding your co2 (I'm no expert, just trying to pass in knowledge for better weed) it basically said using co2 enrichment is null using fluorescent lights, in that it doesn't produce enough Light for the plant to process the extra co2. I'm not sure if your trying to enhance co2 levels, or just maintain them in a sealed room. Maybe consider upgraded lighting, or hold off on the co2 until you can. (Again not trying to step on toes, just pass on useful techniques, and see everyone get the most green for your $$)

That is all good. It take a lot to offend me. I did road construction far to long to be shy or thin skinned. Mmmm... Journal 1 has very little Co2 going to it and it is LED's and T8s and I can see a bit of difference in the plants. Journal 2 and 3 are still mixed and that is ware the Co2 is placed. That tent is All T8s and the plants for journal 2 have thick stalks and look just as good as the ones in Journal 1. The Swiss Cheese is in with Journal 2 and was placed further away from the Co2 and are growing slow. In a way at this point is a blessing.

I don't know if you have taken a look at the other two journals or not. Sometimes I get things mixd up a bit. I'm sure it will be easier when everything is in their own domain. No, ouch! on this end.. :)The useful techniques more than welcomed. :thumb:

happy growing
:circle-of-love:
 
I didn't see leds in your first post, now I'm just jealous! I'll probably getting a pair after I cut down my crop to go perpetual. Are you using a tank? Or generator? What do you shoot for on ppm?

Yikes!! I have not clue what the ppm's are...lol what ever came with the bag. I am using bagged Co2 because I am using tents and it just seemed like a safer way to do it. I did not want to blow my house and the one next to me up :) And I don't have a lot of ventilation going on. With the Co2 you don't need as much ventilation. I have not learned all the tech stuff yet. I'm lucky if I can remember my left from my right.

:thumb:
 
Your probably sitting around 900 if your using the baggie. I love my bag it lets me run my tank up to 12 days plus, instead of just a week! I run my co2 room at 85* 55% rh, 1450 ppm with what I think had been good success. (No one has said anything since my last post, so I don't have much validation) I had trouble with humidity and high temps when I started flowing, ended up getting both an ac unit, and a dehumidifier, so I didn't risk mold issues. My room is 100% sealed though.
 
Your probably sitting around 900 if your using the baggie. I love my bag it lets me run my tank up to 12 days plus, instead of just a week! I run my co2 room at 85* 55% rh, 1450 ppm with what I think had been good success. (No one has said anything since my last post, so I don't have much validation) I had trouble with humidity and high temps when I started flowing, ended up getting both an ac unit, and a dehumidifier, so I didn't risk mold issues. My room is 100% sealed though.

The mold and humidity are what I am worried about. I am thinking when that time comes around I will pull it out(Co2). I have not found any real data supporting to leave the Co2 in through the whole bloom cycle. It just seems to be a matter of opinion. No, real blind studies done to keep out the bias thinking.
 
I also started heavy defoliation to deter mold. What I've looked into says you want max co2 from week 3 of flower, until you start flushing/hardening off your plants in the last week. With their peak intake being the middle 4 weeks, transitioning from bud formation - to bud growth. But again this is just my first trial off a co2 schedule (900 ppm veg, 1200 week 1, 1500 for 6 weeks, and back down to 1200 during flush)
 
We've all given the wrong advice at one time or another...lol. So your in good company. That's why I always end my comment with "SME's". Army term for "Subject Matter Expert".

The additional fan will definitely help with strengthening the plant up. Imagine the plants outside...they are strong because they are out in the elements.

I didn't want to bore/boar you with the PPM thing. Your dictionary response is exactly what is says but you can not tell which nutrients or elements are present just that something is there. I don't know if there is a device that the average guy can purchase that can tell you what and how much is present. That's why I just stick with my nutrient schedule and not worry about something I know nothing about.

PH'ing your water is a must. There is even a chart that gives the ideal levels. Soil optimum levels are higher then hydro levels. Hydro is between 5.5-6.5 with 5.8 being optimum. Look at PH Asa the highway that the nutrients use (via the water) to get to the plant. The kind and amount of the nutrients is directly associated with the level of the PH. Too low or high and your plant may not get the proper amount It needs. IMHO...PH is way more important to learn and understand then PPM

See, boring...lol.

Renegade
 
I also started heavy defoliation to deter mold. What I've looked into says you want max co2 from week 3 of flower, until you start flushing/hardening off your plants in the last week. With their peak intake being the middle 4 weeks, transitioning from bud formation - to bud growth. But again this is just my first trial off a co2 schedule (900 ppm veg, 1200 week 1, 1500 for 6 weeks, and back down to 1200 during flush)

ya... I am a blind study girl...lol This is my first time as well with the Co2. So far I like what I am seeing, thats for sure. But again my first grow was BAD!!!! 14 plants 1oz 13 gr ....:rofl: All in good humor and a lessen well learned.. That is what counts to me. Or my quot would be mindless... :)
 
We've all given the wrong advice at one time or another...lol. So your in good company. That's why I always end my comment with "SME's". Army term for "Subject Matter Expert".

The additional fan will definitely help with strengthening the plant up. Imagine the plants outside...they are strong because they are out in the elements.

I didn't want to bore/boar you with the PPM thing. Your dictionary response is exactly what is says but you can not tell which nutrients or elements are present just that something is there. I don't know if there is a device that the average guy can purchase that can tell you what and how much is present. That's why I just stick with my nutrient schedule and not worry about something I know nothing about.

PH'ing your water is a must. There is even a chart that gives the ideal levels. Soil optimum levels are higher then hydro levels. Hydro is between 5.5-6.5 with 5.8 being optimum. Look at PH Asa the highway that the nutrients use (via the water) to get to the plant. The kind and amount of the nutrients is directly associated with the level of the PH. Too low or high and your plant may not get the proper amount It needs. IMHO...PH is way more important to learn and understand then PPM

See, boring...lol.

Renegade

When I seen the advice about not PHing my mouth hit my knees. KJC put up a post about the charts I felt much better for the new grower. :phew: For a plant that can grow in almost any part of the world. It is or can be a bugger to grow indoors. Totally agree about the ppm and the PH.

:thumb:
 
LightAddict,

I noticed in your photo all your seeds were feminized seeds. Before I came to the 420 family/community :love: . I was told to stay away from them. I also, know that it is just a matter of preference :) Is it usually the grower that turns them into he/she's? Should I be asking this on my own thread? I started to ask theses questions on your thread and then thought maybe I shouldn't. Would you take a look at my Querkle when you get the time. I butched it yesterday. I was rereading natert96 thread and KJC had posted a video about toping and it gave me some Ideas. I chopped on it before I watched the video. I hope that I did not mess the plant up to bad.

Thank-you for your time
:circle-of-love:
 
I have a 55 gal rez, but I still have to let the tap water sit out to let the chlorine evaporate. Yeah if it has a low ppm there can't be much chlorine.

i heard that letting water lets chlorine go out but what about the fluoride. i heard that its bad for the plants worse than chlorine and you can only get rid of to thru filters.
 
i heard that letting water lets chlorine go out but what about the fluoride. i heard that its bad for the plants worse than chlorine and you can only get rid of to thru filters.

I though you were on well water? Yes, letting the water set for awhile or a few days lets the chorine out. I have heard that the fluoride hurts the plants. But from what I have been reading from other experienced growers are using tap water and letting it set out and they have not or seemed to have any issues. So, maybe it is a matter of preference for an RO system?
 
I am on well water but I think I had read somewhere that fluoride is present in all water. If I can just let my water sit out and it be good enough to use believe me I'll go that route I hate having to go to water stores or get water out of fish tank and have to refill it all the time.

Also i was thinkingof putting an aair stone in the water to speed up the process if that would even work or not I don't know but I'lldo Iit anyways.
 
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