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- #21
Leaves look bad, help please!
- Thread starter Floki88
- Start date
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- #22
Buffered soil has Dolomite Lime in it which will adjust your pH for you.
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- #24
My whole setup.. so you can see why I worry a little.. however Bruce banner taking off nicely,also to show lights aren't right on top of the plant
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- #25
So if I add nutes to distilled water I don't have to ph adjust?
No need to pH.
Does it oscillate? Is it only blowing on that one plant?
MidwestZest
Well-Known Member
6.5 6.9 for living medium
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- #29
Blows in one spot, but I checked and because of rearranging for new pots fan isn't even blowing in it anymore it's hitting Bruce now not widow
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- #30
If I put enough distilled through it to get enough runoff and test the ph of that it'll give me soil ph right? If it's off what's the best way to correct it? Phd water? All I got is ph up and ph down to add to nute solution,calmag, and the ff trio. If I need something else to fix it I'll get it. That may be it cuz from earlier answers you'll see that I been adjusting to a lower window than I actually needed which my have forced it down to low?
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Hi @Floki88 and welcome to the forum! 
I hate the popular advice to new growers that they don't have to adjust pH because it can be very misleading. Sure, in a buffered soil, you can get away with not setting your pH to the right point and your soil buffers will eventually get the nutes into the range where they are mobile and available to the plants. This however is the lazy girl's way of growing, taking shortcuts and letting the soil do all the work for you. For the entire period of time when your nutes/water are out of the proper range, being auto adjusted, your nutes are unavailable to the plant, or at least to a degree they are. Why inefficiently use your expensive nutes? Why not just set them into the range right at the get go, and get all that extra time when they are available to the plant? Sure, not adjusting your pH can work in certain situations... but is this advice for the masses, true every time? Nope, it isnt.
So trust your soil to be where it needs to be... there is no need to measure your soil's pH. If you make sure that every fluid that hits your soil is set to 6.3pH, you can do no better... for that is the optimal pH to come in at.
Now, back to your problem....
Where is the Tiger Bloom? Do you have a Fox Farms feeding chart? Go by that, flush when they tell you to, come in at the correct pH, and the Fox Farm system will work. To me, your plants look like they got or are getting too much light, and as said above, they have a potassium deficiency, if not also several others.
I hate the popular advice to new growers that they don't have to adjust pH because it can be very misleading. Sure, in a buffered soil, you can get away with not setting your pH to the right point and your soil buffers will eventually get the nutes into the range where they are mobile and available to the plants. This however is the lazy girl's way of growing, taking shortcuts and letting the soil do all the work for you. For the entire period of time when your nutes/water are out of the proper range, being auto adjusted, your nutes are unavailable to the plant, or at least to a degree they are. Why inefficiently use your expensive nutes? Why not just set them into the range right at the get go, and get all that extra time when they are available to the plant? Sure, not adjusting your pH can work in certain situations... but is this advice for the masses, true every time? Nope, it isnt.
So trust your soil to be where it needs to be... there is no need to measure your soil's pH. If you make sure that every fluid that hits your soil is set to 6.3pH, you can do no better... for that is the optimal pH to come in at.
Now, back to your problem....
Where is the Tiger Bloom? Do you have a Fox Farms feeding chart? Go by that, flush when they tell you to, come in at the correct pH, and the Fox Farm system will work. To me, your plants look like they got or are getting too much light, and as said above, they have a potassium deficiency, if not also several others.
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- #32
I have the tiger bloom but haven't given it as I was told elsewhere that you give flower nutes once flowering begins, which is when pistils start appearing not when lights are switched. She hasnt pushed out any that I've seen yet. I check her every day If not multiple times a day. Plus being worried about over doing feeding which started with the beginning of all this with what I though was nute burn on the edges, Iv been distilled only, I've done one grow big and big bloom and cal mg feeding before switching lights over to 12/12 and been straight distilled since cuz I thought I messed up by feeding in my nuted soil. And no I have no chart but I will look it upHi @Floki88 and welcome to the forum!
I hate the popular advice to new growers that they don't have to adjust pH because it can be very misleading. Sure, in a buffered soil, you can get away with not setting your pH to the right point and your soil buffers will eventually get the nutes into the range where they are mobile and available to the plants. This however is the lazy girl's way of growing, taking shortcuts and letting the soil do all the work for you. For the entire period of time when your nutes/water are out of the proper range, being auto adjusted, your nutes are unavailable to the plant, or at least to a degree they are. Why inefficiently use your expensive nutes? Why not just set them into the range right at the get go, and get all that extra time when they are available to the plant? Sure, not adjusting your pH can work in certain situations... but is this advice for the masses, true every time? Nope, it isnt.
So trust your soil to be where it needs to be... there is no need to measure your soil's pH. If you make sure that every fluid that hits your soil is set to 6.3pH, you can do no better... for that is the optimal pH to come in at.
Now, back to your problem....
Where is the Tiger Bloom? Do you have a Fox Farms feeding chart? Go by that, flush when they tell you to, come in at the correct pH, and the Fox Farm system will work. To me, your plants look like they got or are getting too much light, and as said above, they have a potassium deficiency, if not also several others.
MidwestZest
Well-Known Member
Test your run off then use a ph solution to adjust it and give it a while should perk em up also start feeding your plant with molasses water
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I was going on the first pictures you posted as far as damaged leaves go... but I dont see a problem at all in these last pictures. You are right, the tiger bloom starts after bloom starts, so you shouldnt be having any nutrition problems at all. I still stand by what I said about pH though... don't go down this rabbit hole of thinking your soil is out of pH adjustment... it never seems to go very well once people start trying to adjust. Runoff also doesnt tell you a thing about soil pH... don't go there either. What is it exactly that is making you think you have a problem right now?
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- #35
The leaves looking like this is why I think it has an issue. Looks to me like effected leaves are getting worse.. but it may be my mind playing tricks on the getting worse. Some leaves were looking worse but through defoliating I trimmed them off.
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- #36
Your growing in super soil you said correct?
Your curled leaves is either heat stress, light stress, wind stress, or over watering or too hot of super soil and or too much nutrients.
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- #38
I don't think it's "super soil" it's Fox Farm Strawberry fields. I used Ocean forest previously but had N toxicity problems and plant store guy recommended strawberry fields saying it's the same in everyway as ocean forest just with less N cuz alot of people have N tox probs with ocean forest
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- #39
Unless that's considered super soil
Copy sorry thought I saw super soil in an earlier post.
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