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Mars-Hydro LED Grow Light Discussion
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DarkSidofMike
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5X reflector 144X5 will be amazing light for that area! 4X maybe not bad too.
2X mars2 1600W will be good. 8X mars2 400W will be better.
2X mars2 1600W will be good. 8X mars2 400W will be better.
DarkSidofMike
New Member
nice!!!
thank you, Mike, we are preparing for testing the PAR. We have purchased the machine already.
ganjazz
Well-Known Member
Better abit more overrange for light than under, and dont have to upgrade in case of.
Use 1000w led(mars2+reflector) for 2x3 feet area(4 plants) and isnt too mush, the girls
it.Was advised to go with the mars2 400w but changed mind
,and didn't regret took the 700w instead. 
Temperature stays good, humidity bit high but ventitalion helps alot.
Cola's becoming 0.5L beers and getting more dense.
DarkSidofMike
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sure ... clearly better to use little more light than not enought
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Mars Hydro
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haha, you are welcome. To cover 4'x9', you'd better to take 2pcs MarsII1600w, which will cover 10'x5' at the height of 2'. 2pcs 144x5w will cover 6.6'x4.4' at the height of 2'. 
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Here is our PAR test machine. do you guys have any suggestions... how do you want us to test it... 
DarkSidofMike
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nice buds ganjaz!! very nice!
DarkSidofMike
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please test it on many spots .... not only in the middle just under the panel ... minimum 1 foot each side and more please (and even more wide for bigger ones)
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Mars Hydro
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I the girls... They are so hot lying upon the pole.
the girls... They are so hot lying upon the pole.
Better abit more overrange for light than under, and dont have to upgrade in case of.
Use 1000w led(mars2+reflector) for 2x3 feet area(4 plants) and isnt too mush, the girls
Was advised to go with the mars2 400w but changed mind
Temperature stays good, humidity bit high but ventitalion helps alot.
Cola's becoming 0.5L beers and getting more dense.
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DarkSidofMike
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with all the money you are making with use mars hydro ,...... im sure you can buy a spectroradiometer instead of a quantum meter (spectro are very more precise but very more expensive)
pfffff ...... lol
pfffff ...... lol
ganjazz
Well-Known Member
Thanks, grow is going better than expected,
Can only hope will continue this way and with next grow.
I find harvest timing not that easy to be determined, 2weeks ago cut 1st part but obvious way too fast.
Saw few amber trichs on sugar leaves and it was last week flower normally, now extended with 1-2weeks, could be the cause of many times defol.
(also stopped too early with nutes through that)
Another lesson learned,
And realy need a very good microscope to check trichs,
DarkSidofMike
New Member
you dont need a micro .... just wait for 66% of the "hairs" or pistils to become dark .... minimum 50%
it is not perfect, but reliable for most of strains
it is not perfect, but reliable for most of strains
ganjazz
Well-Known Member
yeah, i know, but pistols looked couple weeks back over 50% dark and than buds start swelling and still do(i think)
Want to harvest at highest THC, and more CBN, therefore good microscope for accuracy.
Couple days earlier - later can make difference maybe.
Looks like halfclear/cloudy to me or more cloudy? and few amber, cant get sharper image.
Closeup grapefruit(same plant previous photo)
Don't go to all that effort, spend all that money and not invest in a $15 dollar 50x microscope, if you're going to be growing a few times it should be part of the standard kit.
If you're after the CBD then it helps heaps more because hairs are usually already turned but trichomes could still be milky not amber.
If you're after the CBD then it helps heaps more because hairs are usually already turned but trichomes could still be milky not amber.
Robert Celt
New Member
I agree ruddie
The THC Bomb I am growing has a potency of up to 25%. If I went by hair color the potency would have suffered bad. When the majority of the hairs had turned color, the trichomes were still on;y about 60/40 milky/clear and no amber
The THC Bomb I am growing has a potency of up to 25%. If I went by hair color the potency would have suffered bad. When the majority of the hairs had turned color, the trichomes were still on;y about 60/40 milky/clear and no amber
DarkSidofMike
New Member
me i have Blueberry, MNice Shit, OG kush and Northern lights .... all are very good to go by the hairs ... the microscope i bought was only to confirm that going with hairs is really not bad. since i dont use it anymore.
Dennise
Well-Known Member
ganjazz I got my loupe off of Cramazon for about $5... It took it a while to get here but it came from China and works great.... From your pics you look to be still a bit clear and going to cloudy but I don't think you are quite there either.... I do think under these LEDs the breeder info is a bit short and usually takes a week or 2 longer than they suggest... at least to get to 30% amber... I like couch lock...
I do know some folks that go by the swelling of the calyxes and when the pistols turn down and brown in color... but it is not as telling as the loupe and ambers.... I love my M-H 's and I'm a real person...
....
I do know some folks that go by the swelling of the calyxes and when the pistols turn down and brown in color... but it is not as telling as the loupe and ambers.... I love my M-H 's and I'm a real person.......
Hey Sara,
I would like to make a suggestion for how you do your PAR readings. These are some of the better layouts that I have come across.
I would suggest making a 4'x4' grid and doing readings every 6" out from the center of the light, 2' each way for a total spread of 4'x4'. I would suggest for each light making a 4'x4' grid for different heights, most common I see are 12", 18", 24", 30" and 36".
See this photo... (these charts are from growers house, and only posted for a reference to sara of a good layout format.
Another really nice feature to add to the charts I have only seen done by Osram but it really helps give a visual of the output at different intensities. I would suggest having areas shaded in different colors like red, orange, yellow, green...etc... each color represents a intensity... for instance the area shaded red would be >1500uMol/m2/s-1, Orange would be >1000uMol/m2/s-1, Yellow would be 500uMol/m2/s-1 and green would be 250uMol.
You also could label them in a color index like this.
For Cannabis and sun loving plants
RED= Peak Photosynthesis Saturation Point (>1500uMol/m2/s-1)
Orange= Optimal Flowering Intensity with added CO2 (>1000uMol/m2/s-1)
Yellow= Optimal Flowering Intensity without added CO2 (>500uMol/m2/s-1)
Green= Optimal VEG intensity for >=18hr daylight schedule (>250uMol/m2/s-1)
Osram did a nice job with their chart on this aspect, but the number layout is a bit confusing which is why I though the first photo has a better 4'x4' chart. (Again, photo is posted only as a suggestion for Sara, and in no way meant to be an advertisement, as I have no affiliation with any of these companies)
Anyhow, I hope this helps give you an idea of what would make a good layout. By doing it this way, not only are growers able to correctly chose their LED lights for their grow area, but also based on light schedule and also plant species. It also will give a very accurate plot of the actual footprint which is ideal, at multiple heights eliminating the questions of "how high should I hang it" or "what size do I need for my grow area".
Awesome Li-Cor!!! I'm just slightly jealous
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