My First Journal, Kanno 26: I Will Grow 6 Critical Plants From Royal Queen Seeds

[Jon]

Ahoj @Jon, @Nortonnabis, děkuji, že jsi se podíval na první otázku, ta žlutá věc je teploměr s vlhkoměrem a mám ho naměřeno na 40 cm od rostlin, abyste měli světla v ideální vzdálenosti. Druhá otázka - kořeny jsou myslím tak akorát a rostliny to vypily za jeden den. Třetí dotaz - jedná se o půdu s perlitem předhnojenou na 14 dní. Čtvrtá otázka - netuším, jak je stará, ale mladí útočí a k vašim dotazům @Jon, hrnce mají odtoky a plánuji je v nich nechat až do konce. Měl jsem je v posledním porostu a podařilo se mi v nich dodělat 4 rostliny Hulkberry, tak to asi nechám. A pro další růst si mohu pořídit větší látkové květináče a zajímá mě @Jon jakou výhodu mají látkové květináče oproti plastovým? Bohužel teď nemám peníze na nákup nových květináčů a děkuji za pochvalu tohoto způsobu přesazování, který jsem zde sledoval z @dick23rk ,

Hi Kanno - thanks for the answers. The advantage of using cloth pots over plastic ones is air to your roots is way better in a cloth or Airpot versus plastic. Whenever I got stuck using a plastic pot, and I do this with my Dixie Cups too sometimes or whatever my starter containers are if they're plastic, I poked tons of holes through so it would allow more air. Also, fabric pots sort of automatically prune your roots on the outside and it isn't as if they come through or anything. There are many cheapies that are just as good as the expensive ones, just FYI, and imho. Much easier to gauge water usage as well, as you can usually look at the pot and see where or to how low it has dried out, as it will appear lighter as it dries. I tried an actual AirPot one time, and although it looks really cool, I didn't personally see what all the hubub is about - cloth pots do the exact same thing just as effectively, at least I think. And way cheaper.

EDIT: When you did the four Hulkberry, did you feel each plant had enough space? Did you feel they got crowded? I'm asking cuz if that's the case, are you sure you want to do five this time in the same size pots? OR, were they fine on space and you can easily fit the fifth?

 

[Bill284]

Hi fellow growers, today I transplanted the girls into 11 liter pots with perlite soil and poured them with silicon with a pH of 5.8 and I added the remaining four light strips and they run at 75% so maybe they will do well below are some photos of the substrate, root ball, girls before transplanting and after transplanting. Thanks for the insight and for the advice

Beautiful set up my friend @Kanno26 excellent attention to detail.
Now that your in soil you will have to follow Emilya's instructions re: watering and nutrients.
I'll keep watching though.

Stay safe
Bill

 

[Jon]

Beautiful set up my friend @Kanno26 excellent attention to detail.
Now that your in soil you will have to follow Emilya's instructions re: watering and nutrients.
I'll keep watching though.

Stay safe
Bill

Lol. One "Resident Expert" passing it off to another. I love it.

 

[Kanno26]

Beautiful set up my friend @Kanno26 excellent attention to detail.
Now that your in soil you will have to follow Emilya's instructions re: watering and nutrients.
I'll keep watching though.

Stay safe
Bill

Thanks @Bill284, I'm glad you stay here and yes it will follow @Emilya but I will be happy for every tip of yours

 

[Verbalist]

soil and poured them with silicon with a pH of 5.8

Liquid silica and soil isn’t the best combination. Especially if your Silica product is not Potassium silica..
Most of the silica remains unsoluable in your soil and binds Phospahates on it. Which basicly means it can lock out Phosphorus.

If possible get silica in powder form and sprinkle it around the main stalk of the plant like this:

Otherwise the soil looks good. I wouldn’t pH the plants feed water lower than 6.5-6.2, or at all! Your soil takes care of the nutrient availability. And as time goes on your nutrients going to build up salts into the medium which will decrease soil pH and might create deficiences and lockouts.

 

[Kanno26]

Hi Kanno - thanks for the answers. The advantage of using cloth pots over plastic ones is air to your roots is way better in a cloth or Airpot versus plastic. Whenever I got stuck using a plastic pot, and I do this with my Dixie Cups too sometimes or whatever my starter containers are if they're plastic, I poked tons of holes through so it would allow more air. Also, fabric pots sort of automatically prune your roots on the outside and it isn't as if they come through or anything. There are many cheapies that are just as good as the expensive ones, just FYI, and imho. Much easier to gauge water usage as well, as you can usually look at the pot and see where or to how low it has dried out, as it will appear lighter as it dries. I tried an actual AirPot one time, and although it looks really cool, I didn't personally see what all the hubub is about - cloth pots do the exact same thing just as effectively, at least I think. And way cheaper.

EDIT: When you did the four Hulkberry, did you feel each plant had enough space? Did you feel they got crowded? I'm asking cuz if that's the case, are you sure you want to do five this time in the same size pots? OR, were they fine on space and you can easily fit the fifth?

Greetings @Jon, Hulkberry had 4 weeks in vegetables and Critical I want to have 5 weeks in vegetables maybe six so I think it will be fine thank you for the answer to those cloth flower pots it sounds good and I will definitely look at some; to you a question - how long before I start training from that shift? Now the plants are at the fourth node.

 

[Jon]

Greetings @Jon, Hulkberry had 4 weeks in vegetables and Critical I want to have 5 weeks in vegetables maybe six so I think it will be fine thank you for the answer to those cloth flower pots it sounds good and I will definitely look at some; to you a question - how long before I start training from that shift? Now the plants are at the fourth node.

Hi @Kanno26 - that's kind of a judgement call, but if it were me, I would top them above the fourth node after the fifth is out. Then you have all kinds of options from there. But I would start with that topping for the moment if it were my plants. That's sort of what I would call the "jumping off" point - when training really begins. These days I pretty much let them go until the 5th node is out then I get busy. If you're on node 4 now, it's not long at all before that point, and that will leave you plenty of time before your, say, 6 week veg (I'd go with 6 instead of 5 personally) is over to train them before the flip.

You'll likely get other answers from others - like I said, it's a judgement/personal preference call at this point and there are many ways to skin this cat. It'll be interesting to see what others have to say.

 

[Kanno26]

Hi @Kanno26 - that's kind of a judgement call, but if it were me, I would top them above the fourth node after the fifth is out. Then you have all kinds of options from there. But I would start with that topping for the moment if it were my plants. That's sort of what I would call the "jumping off" point - when training really begins. These days I pretty much let them go until the 5th node is out then I get busy. If you're on node 4 now, it's not long at all before that point, and that will leave you plenty of time before your, say, 6 week veg (I'd go with 6 instead of 5 personally) is over to train them before the flip.

You'll likely get other answers from others - like I said, it's a judgement/personal preference call at this point and there are many ways to skin this cat. It'll be interesting to see what others have to say.

What do you mean by judicial opinion? Or does the translator translate it for me, and otherwise I'll leave them for six weeks? I'd like to have four main sticks or six, what do you think?

 

[Jon]

What do you mean by judicial opinion? Or does the translator translate it for me, and otherwise I'll leave them for six weeks? I'd like to have four main sticks or six, what do you think?

Lol. That just means everyone has their own way of doing it, that's all. If you top above the fourth node you can quad it out. I believe @Azimuth is a proponent of this among many others. I basically did it on the Apple Blossom. Quad it out means you'll get your four main sticks.

 

[Jon]

Lol. That just means everyone has their own way of doing it, that's all. If you top above the fourth node you can quad it out. I believe @Azimuth is a proponent of this among many others. I basically did it on the Apple Blossom. Quad it out means you'll get your four main sticks.

@Kanno26, to be clear, I am just learning this, and I am definitely not an expert. You have many experts in this technique following you. Some of them have posted basically tutorials or have journals displaying the quad method in detail. I can't give you that and it would probably be of great assistance to you. I'd toss a general question out there about how to quad and tag everyone you know. Lol. But Shed, Otter, Bill, Emilya, Rexer, VG, Azi, Stunger, Farmer Reading, etc., etc.....all these names I've seen in your journal and all of them are way way capable of this techinque with more detailed info than I can give you. Not to put anyone on the spot or forget you other great trainers out there.

 

[Kanno26]

Liquid silica and soil isn’t the best combination. Especially if your Silica product is not Potassium silica..
Most of the silica remains unsoluable in your soil and binds Phospahates on it. Which basicly means it can lock out Phosphorus.

If possible get silica in powder form and sprinkle it around the main stalk of the plant like this:

Otherwise the soil looks good. I wouldn’t pH the plants feed water lower than 6.5-6.2, or at all! Your soil takes care of the nutrient availability. And as time goes on your nutrients going to build up salts into the medium which will decrease soil pH and might create deficiences and lockouts.

Hi @Verbalist, thanks for the tip unfortunately I don't have a chance to get a silicate granary now, but I'll look around for it. I want to ask if the substrate is pre-fertilized for a fortnight so would you just water in clean water with adjusted PH or add calmag? Thanks for the peek

 

[StoneOtter]

Looking good Kanno!

 

[Nortonnabis]

Hi @Verbalist,... I want to ask if the substrate is pre-fertilized for a fortnight so would you just water in clean water with adjusted PH or add calmag? ...

I assume you're asking about the soil you are using which has 'NPK 12-14-24' on the label.
That's my question too!
I never saw potting soil with an NPK number. (I didn't research this...)
And yeah, does it last a 'fortnight' with the nutes that it comes with?

 

[Kanno26]

I assume you're asking about the soil you are using which has 'NPK 12-14-24' on the label.
That's my question too!
I never saw potting soil with an NPK number. (I didn't research this...)
And yeah, does it last a 'fortnight' with the nutes that it comes with?

I have this soil for the first time, so I'll see what happens, I'm curious about it myself, I also didn't notice it and said calmag to add or just adjust the PH? Thanks for the reply.

 

[Jon]

I have this soil for the first time, so I'll see what happens, I'm curious about it myself, I also didn't notice it and said calmag to add or just adjust the PH? Thanks for the reply.

Most regular soils are sold with the idea that they have enough nutes in the soil already to sustain the plant without any deficiencies for the first two weeks of life above ground. I rarely begin nutes before the second set of true leaves is out. In your case this is transplant soil. Don't worry about the numbers. Feed according to whatever your nutes say to do and add calmag as you need to only, that would be my suggestion. And begin the feeding immediately at an adjusted PH of 6.3. Go feed, plain water, feed, plain water, etc. Water per Emilya. You'll be fine.

My two cents.

 

[Kanno26]

Most regular soils are sold with the idea that they have enough nutes in the soil already to sustain the plant without any deficiencies for the first two weeks of life above ground. I rarely begin nutes before the second set of true leaves is out. In your case this is transplant soil. Don't worry about the numbers. Feed according to whatever your nutes say to do and add calmag as you need to only, that would be my suggestion. And begin the feeding immediately at an adjusted PH of 6.3. Go feed, plain water, feed, plain water, etc. Water per Emilya. You'll be fine.

My two cents.

Thanks @Jon, I'll stick to the plan and see how it goes with them thanks for your two cents.

 

[7Dust2]

Liquid silica and soil isn’t the best combination. Especially if your Silica product is not Potassium silica..
Most of the silica remains unsoluable in your soil and binds Phospahates on it. Which basicly means it can lock out Phosphorus.

If possible get silica in powder form and sprinkle it around the main stalk of the plant like this:

Otherwise the soil looks good. I wouldn’t pH the plants feed water lower than 6.5-6.2, or at all! Your soil takes care of the nutrient availability. And as time goes on your nutrients going to build up salts into the medium which will decrease soil pH and might create deficiences and lockouts.

That is absolutely the truth too.

 

[Jon]

Thanks @Jon, I'll stick to the plan and see how it goes with them thanks for your two cents.

Actually Kanno, your comment brings up a good point. You seem to pretty much HAVE a plan at this point, or at least pretty much a good idea of one, yes? That's the thing. It's always important to be flexible of course, but truth be told, I get into more trouble when I start with a plan and then start messing with it over the course of the grow until by the end the plan turned out basically irrelevant, than I do when I just stick to my guns. I would suggest that you're very much on the right track, you have many highly qualified growers in your corner, and if you unintentionally veer off into Crazytown, someone will let you know. Sticking to the plan sounds like a great idea.

 

[7Dust2]

That is absolutely the truth too.

Alot people don't think about that stuff. And end up with issues. And it's finding the cause that needs to be fixed not the problem. Once problem is there bandaiding it doesn't work.

 

[Kanno26]

Thanks @Jon, I always try to have a plan how to do it but you know sometimes something doesn't work out fortunately there are a lot of experienced growers who are willing to help and I appreciate that, thanks to everyone for your advice and tips, it will definitely turn out well with you