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- #21
Hayron1088
Well-Known Member
I cal-mag about every three watering cycles. So if it’s CalMag then maybe I’m not using enough? I’m using the amount on the bottle too
Two deficiencies in one tent with 3 different strains
- Thread starter Hayron1088
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That's fine. Here's what I'm guessing...things looked great for about a month as the plant was primarily feeding off the nutrients in the FFOF. When those nutrients ran out, your plant is relying on what you put in. You could A) feed it too little, B) feed it too much, in which case you'd see tip burn, or C) feed it the right amount but still see deficiencies like in choice A because the fertilizer is not complete and is missing elements. I'm saying A or C is most likely.
I tested my lux meter vs lux meter apps on a phone and found the apps were highly inaccurate. Tried several apps and several different phones. For $20 I'm more partial to buying an actual lux meter. About 50,000 lux is what I aim for with adult plants, 15000 for seedlings.
Reave
Well-Known Member
I actually found an app where you build a diffuser with your phone that is quite accurate apparently. But yes most are off.
Edit: not sure if it’s just for iPhone but it’s called Photone, if you have a meter and can do a comparison that would be cool.
Looks like they have that for Android too. I have a new Pixel that may do better than the prior phones I tried it with a couple years ago also. Maybe tomorrow AM, when the lights are on, I can give it a whirl.
@Reave Here is a link to my prior app vs actual meter tests.
Sueet
Well-Known Member
For what it is worth, I only asked about the pH, I wasn't stating it as a definitive problem. If it is being measured, I tend to assume it is being altered, so I asked.
I use Dr. Earth products in my gardens outside sometimes (my lemons especially seem to love it) and I never pH my garden water, they get whatever comes out of the hose (or out of the sky) unless my rain barrel has something in it.
I use Dr. Earth products in my gardens outside sometimes (my lemons especially seem to love it) and I never pH my garden water, they get whatever comes out of the hose (or out of the sky) unless my rain barrel has something in it.
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- #28
Hayron1088
Well-Known Member
My creation(Cherry Pie, WW and random fire seed)
Blueberry pictured above.
I have other plants in there also and they are all showing the same signs. Also I have a correction from a previous post, it’s 1/4 cup every two weeks using the correct nutrient line as it goes through each stage. So I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong but I took the advice given so far which is moving lights and adjusting intensity. I am about to do a heavy water with plain RO at a ph of 6.3. Now I know oh doesn’t matter apparently with what I’m using but I’m going to ph anyway just so I know it may not be a factor. I’ll post an update daily so we are all on the same page
Blueberry pictured above.
I have other plants in there also and they are all showing the same signs. Also I have a correction from a previous post, it’s 1/4 cup every two weeks using the correct nutrient line as it goes through each stage. So I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong but I took the advice given so far which is moving lights and adjusting intensity. I am about to do a heavy water with plain RO at a ph of 6.3. Now I know oh doesn’t matter apparently with what I’m using but I’m going to ph anyway just so I know it may not be a factor. I’ll post an update daily so we are all on the same page
Reave
Well-Known Member
Maybe a zinc def. You got something going on. Now that you got some full pics some more experienced eyes may chime in.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Use spring water if you’re going to spend money on water. It has usable nutrients that your plants can uptake. RO is stripped of all.My creation(Cherry Pie, WW and random fire seed)
Blueberry pictured above.
I have other plants in there also and they are all showing the same signs. Also I have a correction from a previous post, it’s 1/4 cup every two weeks using the correct nutrient line as it goes through each stage. So I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong but I took the advice given so far which is moving lights and adjusting intensity. I am about to do a heavy water with plain RO at a ph of 6.3. Now I know oh doesn’t matter apparently with what I’m using but I’m going to ph anyway just so I know it may not be a factor. I’ll post an update daily so we are all on the same page
PH isn’t really a factor (within reason) in organics, you won’t have “salt” buildup, mainly just residue from your teas, so make sure you're getting some runoff with your feed.
You don’t need to worry much with using tap depending on the chloramine and or chlorine. If it’s bad like it is where I am, get some powder form ascorbic acid (Vitamin C - cheap on Amazon), add roughly 1/4 teaspoon for 5 gallons, and it will get rid of it.
It’s hard to over feed with dry amendments because it’s all organic matter. The plant can’t use it until it broken down, and won’t use any more than it needs, so I don’t see that as an issue either.
It looks like mostly all deficiencies to me which is common in organics. It tells me you might need to hit it with some Recharge, Great White, Mykos or something to revive/restore you’re microbe population. If the dry amendments aren’t getting broken down fast enough and made available to the plant it starves, therefore causing it to cannibalize itself from the bottom up. (Yellow leaves)
I used to brew my own teas with Earthworm castings, down to earth, Great white mica, and URB. I think the recipe is in my soil building link in my signature. Might even benefit from a good seaweed/kelp mix foliage spray. I use Neptunes blue label. I don’t recommend doing this in flower. Lol!
If you don’t have sticky traps, I highly recommend using them. Those gnats only get worse and after awhile will destroy your plants. They are just as bad as spider mites IMO. I cut them in 2x2 squares and prop them against the wall or the pot and the soil.
Good luck. @Emilya is well versed in organics… maybe she’ll pop in and drop some knowledge you can take to the bank.
Hiya Hayron!
What I see looks like classic Ca and Mg defs to me.
This pronounced dark brown perimeter around necrotic spots is definitive Ca def
And this interveinal fading with green veins is indicative of Mg def
You could probably use more CalMg.
Edited to add that there could also be some N def somewhat hidden by the Mg def.
What I see looks like classic Ca and Mg defs to me.
This pronounced dark brown perimeter around necrotic spots is definitive Ca def
And this interveinal fading with green veins is indicative of Mg def
You could probably use more CalMg.
Edited to add that there could also be some N def somewhat hidden by the Mg def.
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- #32
Hayron1088
Well-Known Member
I appreciate this breakdown. I’ve harvested three times now so I’m pretty new to this but I’m hooked for sure. So when re-amending soil with organic dry nutes, in your opinion how much should I use?
- Thread starter
- #33
Hayron1088
Well-Known Member
Thank you for taking the time to help me, I do use a tea every couple weeks but I think I’ll try the recharge and see where that gets me. I’m in day 80 of veg(give or take a week) and I’ve never had plants slow down so much so I knew something was happening. I did a heavy water with 6.3 water and top dressed 1/4 cup of DrE 4-4-4. I’ll probably flip to flower in a couple weeks providing I fix the current issue also. The main reason is I have other plants ready for the tent but as a result of my own mishap, I guess they will have to live in the window for a couple more weeks lol. Ok ok I’m rambling, thank you again and I’ll be posting updates.Use spring water if you’re going to spend money on water. It has usable nutrients that your plants can uptake. RO is stripped of all.
PH isn’t really a factor (within reason) in organics, you won’t have “salt” buildup, mainly just residue from your teas, so make sure you're getting some runoff with your feed.
You don’t need to worry much with using tap depending on the chloramine and or chlorine. If it’s bad like it is where I am, get some powder form ascorbic acid (Vitamin C - cheap on Amazon), add roughly 1/4 teaspoon for 5 gallons, and it will get rid of it.
It’s hard to over feed with dry amendments because it’s all organic matter. The plant can’t use it until it broken down, and won’t use any more than it needs, so I don’t see that as an issue either.
It looks like mostly all deficiencies to me which is common in organics. It tells me you might need to hit it with some Recharge, Great White, Mykos or something to revive/restore you’re microbe population. If the dry amendments aren’t getting broken down fast enough and made available to the plant it starves, therefore causing it to cannibalize itself from the bottom up. (Yellow leaves)
I used to brew my own teas with Earthworm castings, down to earth, Great white mica, and URB. I think the recipe is in my soil building link in my signature. Might even benefit from a good seaweed/kelp mix foliage spray. I use Neptunes blue label. I don’t recommend doing this in flower. Lol!
If you don’t have sticky traps, I highly recommend using them. Those gnats only get worse and after awhile will destroy your plants. They are just as bad as spider mites IMO. I cut them in 2x2 squares and prop them against the wall or the pot and the soil.
Good luck. @Emilya is well versed in organics… maybe she’ll pop in and drop some knowledge you can take to the bank.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
You should start using a “bloom” mix now. It takes weeks for the microbes to break the raw ingredients down. By the time you’re ready to flip, the nutrients should be breaking down.
Probably need to source a calcium and Magnesium supplement to add in too. Research microbes and consider adding them in with eat feed.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Post in thread '6 Ladies Cloned Trifecta, 2019, Indoor 4x8 LED'
6 Ladies Cloned Trifecta, 2019, Indoor 4x8 LED
This Is how I amended mine.
the plants are gonna pull most of what they need out of the environment. c02 only starts to pay off when you control the rest of the variables. your grow area has to be tons more self contained than just a tent in a room.
use it with every feeding.
this grow absolutely looks typical for a fox fire and organic dry nute grow. the nutes don't get added until the grower notices a deficiency, then the nutes take time to become available to the plant after feeding, and the plant continues to crash in the mean time.
loads of times the grower will over / under compensate as they struggle to read the plants needs. just not a system i would recommend until the grower has accomplished a few and has the added experience.
the plants don't look too bad but i honestly think the ph, calmag, and nutes need to be rebalanced. i'm with @farside05, you may have to source a more complete nute.
