What’s causing this?

Willis

Active Member
Ff happy frog soil
AN nutes
200 watt
3 gallon pots
Northern lights auto
I’m about 2 weeks into flower and I’m having some mild yellowing/spots start to show up and I’m not exactly sure what’s causing it. I ph to 6.5 before every feed, haven’t checked ppm but seeing as the last feed was the first time I’ve fed nutes I wouldn’t think it’s very high. Overall don’t really have any ideas on what it is.

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
Ff happy frog soil
AN nutes
200 watt
3 gallon pots
Northern lights auto
I’m about 2 weeks into flower and I’m having some mild yellowing/spots start to show up and I’m not exactly sure what’s causing it. I ph to 6.5 before every feed, haven’t checked ppm but seeing as the last feed was the first time I’ve fed nutes I wouldn’t think it’s very high. Overall don’t really have any ideas on what it is.

image.jpg


image.jpg
Hello @Willis How are you today.
Do you have the feed schedule for your nutrients.
Are you following it? Doesn't sound like it?
Are you letting the soil dry well before feeding?
Soil requires being fed let dry water let dry feed let dry water let dry...etc
Stay safe.
Bill
 
Hello @Willis How are you today.
Do you have the feed schedule for your nutrients.
Are you following it? Doesn't sound like it?
Are you letting the soil dry well before feeding?
Soil requires being fed let dry water let dry feed let dry water let dry...etc
Stay safe.
Bill
Yes I do, I only just now started feeding cause this one went into flower pretty quickly and the soil alone was enough to feed, all I fed this time was 3ml of cal/mag and 1/4 tsp of open sesame which is a 5-45-19. I’m pretty likely to underwater than overwater, always wait till I know the soil is totally dry before I water again.
 
I was assuming it was ca/mg and that’s what I fed 2 days ago and this just now popped up should I increase the dose next feed from 3 to 5ml?
I’d go slow … see first if 4ml does the trick
 
Ca/Mg is usually 1-1.5ml/L
5-49-19 is some serious serious numbers, no idea how you are supposed to balance that
Yes I fed 3ml in one gallon, should it be lessened? Is it being that high basically causing a reverse effect? The feeding Schedule is 1/4 tsp or 1.5g per gallon once a week for the open sesame, that’s with combined nutrients.
 
All my nutes come with dosages in ml/L so I'm not sure about teaspoons and gallons
If you are adding Ca/Mg the problem is more likely the feed
Are you sure the 5-49-19 is once a week, not once for a week?
Regular base nutes might be an idea
1 teaspoon is basically 5ml. and a gallon and 4 liters are close enough for government work, it's a weed, not rocket science, close it fine.

Continued 5-49-19 sounds like a recipe for lockout!
 
1 teaspoon is basically 5ml. and a gallon and 4 liters are close enough for government work, it's a weed, not rocket science, close it fine.

Continued 5-49-19 sounds like a recipe for lockout!
It’s not continued through all of flower it’s specifically for the first signs of flower through middle weeks max then I go to another. And yes 1/2tsp is 2.5 mL so I fed just over 3mL of cal mag. If lockout is an issue Ill either severely reduce the strength of the feed or stop it entirely. Internet tends to lie and based on all the feedback of people using open sesame i had assumed it would be good for flower seems that’s what it was designed for.
 
All my nutes come with dosages in ml/L so I'm not sure about teaspoons and gallons
If you are adding Ca/Mg the problem is more likely the feed
Are you sure the 5-49-19 is once a week, not once for a week?
Regular base nutes might be an idea
Yes the feed schedule says first signs of flower through middle weeks. I have advanced nutrients grow, micro and bloom nutes they just didn’t seem to be working very well for me. Last grow but I can give them a try. Also the reason I’m assuming the open sesame is in tsp measurement is because it’s a water soluble nute so it’s powder.
 
Autos do not need a lot of nutes (unlike WW, which is a nute hog)
I'd try going back to the AN nutes/schedule (+ Ca/Mg) and let the plant grow naturally, autos will do their own thing quite happily without any forcing
Should I up the mag for the spotting then? Anything I read on this strain from the breeder said it was a heavy feeder even through flower. Funny you say that though cause the other 3 plants with it are all WW autos
 
Should I up the mag for the spotting then? Anything I read on this strain from the breeder said it was a heavy feeder even through flower. Funny you say that though cause the other 3 plants with it are all WW autos
Probably, in a 4L batch 4-6ml Ca/Mg is more usual
Mix up the AN as per the bottle instructs including some Micro
Info from breeders and internet gurus are great but very little use when it comes to your plants in your individual set up, particularly if you do run into problems
Generally, avoid super bud gunk type additives as they aren't necessary and more likely to cause problems rather than turn your plant into something amazing
 
if you're running the sesame on top of the AN you should be mixing 1.5 - 3g / 4L of water. there is a range as the mfgr doesn't know what nute line you're gonna pair it with, or how heavy your plant will feed. AN runs hot so i'd shoot for the lower.

if you run it alone it's 6g / 4L. though i'd increase that to range from 4 - 6g / 4L based solely on others experiences with it. it's hot. both schedules call for periodic flushes as that stuff will build in soil like no one's business. AN also likes to be run f/w/f/w in soil based systems.


mixing the sesame by weight and not volume is much more precise, and will result in a steadier ppm range with less variance.


edit : does look like it wants a little calmag. no idea how that balances out with such a hot mix. i ran supplemental calmag at about a half dose on a hot mix with MC and bud explosion. not sure it would work the same here.
 
if you're running the sesame on top of the AN you should be mixing 1.5 - 3g / 4L of water. there is a range as the mfgr doesn't know what nute line you're gonna pair it with, or how heavy your plant will feed. AN runs hot so i'd shoot for the lower.

if you run it alone it's 6g / 4L. though i'd increase that to range from 4 - 6g / 4L based solely on others experiences with it. it's hot. both schedules call for periodic flushes as that stuff will build in soil like no one's business. AN also likes to be run f/w/f/w in soil based systems.


mixing the sesame by weight and not volume is much more precise, and will result in a steadier ppm range with less variance.


edit : does look like it wants a little calmag. no idea how that balances out with such a hot mix. i ran supplemental calmag at about a half dose on a hot mix with MC and bud explosion. not sure it would work the same here.
No no the ONLY thing that I’ve fed at all has been the sesame 1 time and the cal/mag. 1/4 tsp or roughly 1.25g of sesame and a little over 3ml cal mag, I started off at the lowest dose on the sesame as to not get a bad reaction and ease the plant into it, I have not given any of the AN at all yet I was just meaning if the sesame was an issue I do have the AN trio if it was a better option.
 
No no the ONLY thing that I’ve fed at all has been the sesame 1 time and the cal/mag. 1/4 tsp or roughly 1.25g of sesame and a little over 3ml cal mag, I started off at the lowest dose on the sesame as to not get a bad reaction and ease the plant into it, I have not given any of the AN at all yet I was just meaning if the sesame was an issue I do have the AN trio if it was a better option.

so you're caught in the hand off between whats in the soil and where you need to start feeding.
considering you went with a low dose i don't see it being an issue.

i'm with @Growings on the issue. calmag and a little pk is what it's asking. there's plenty of N. you can mix the calmag on the water side if you follow a f/w/f/w schedule. maybe even up the sesame a touch. this is where the spoons won't help. i'd consider ramping by half gram increments or so as it builds and the nutes in the soil deplete.


edit : or drop it altogether for now and go back to AN. it's a tough call as no one can tell what's left in the soil.
 
You might also try setting your pH down to the low end of the soil range, instead of coming in at 6.5, at the middle of the range. Upward pH drift will cause you to never see 6.3-6.5 if you come in there, and you will be missing out on some of the elements that are most mobile at the low part of the 6.2-6.8 range. 6.5 is a compromise that oftentimes results in confusing deficiencies in mid to late flower. 6.3 is mathematically the pH where the most elements are the most mobile... come in there.
 
Back
Top Bottom