What is up with my plant and its leaves?

[bluter]

Hi bluter. I dont have hydrogen peroxide and only calmag I have is the calmag agent from canna. One of the reasons I changed from canna nutrients was because at the beginning I couldn't get a straight answer regarding the amount to use, same with the calmag. Apparently the recommended amounts by canna are way too hot and will burn the ahit out of the plants. Some said a quarter, some gave me units in us gallons etc it just ended up confusing the fuck out of me so changed to AN as it was apparently easy for beginners to follow.

What's f/f/w f/f/f/w stand for feed/water ?

Any idea what the ec/ppm I should be looking to achieve with the AN nutrients and Supplements ?

Thanks

if you're in hempy you can flush hempy method with h202, let stand a day or even two, then feed. watch for an explosion of growth when you do


you can use regular hydrogen peroxide you get from any pharmacy. something like 500ml bottle to 5L. the h202 clears the roots and salt build up, and gives an 02 boost. i use the higher % hydro store stuff, but the everyday stuff works just as well. trick as old as hydro. used in the late 70s / early 80's. still in the toolbox.

f = feed
w = water

yes. if you use AN incorporate a water side in to your sched. if you use amendments, put them in the water side. other wise the water side should be just water and calmag, unless on tap. then go fish.

All 3 plants have had around 6 litres of water each today with a pH of 5.8.
No run off on any of the plants today before leaving for work but plenty of run off with their second watering when I got back home.

Should I do this again tomorrow morning and again at night then for their next feed introduce the AN nutes again at around 1100 ppm, ec of 2.2

Should I just add the base nutes or also add the big bud as they should be getting that as part of the feeding schedule.

Thanks again

everything goes in. not sure about the balance exact but your ppm is ok for mid flower. 11 - 1200 is pretty much the ceiling and can be a bit hot for some. depends on how fast they eat it too. mine pretty much always get a dry cycle.

 

[MGD420]

if you're in hempy you can flush hempy method with h202, let stand a day or even two, then feed. watch for an explosion of growth when you do


you can use regular hydrogen peroxide you get from any pharmacy. something like 500ml bottle to 5L. the h202 clears the roots and salt build up, and gives an 02 boost. i use the higher % hydro store stuff, but the everyday stuff works just as well. trick as old as hydro. used in the late 70s / early 80's. still in the toolbox.

f = feed
w = water

yes. if you use AN incorporate a water side in to your sched. if you use amendments, put them in the water side. other wise the water side should be just water and calmag, unless on tap. then go fish.






everything goes in. not sure about the balance exact but your ppm is ok for mid flower. 11 - 1200 is pretty much the ceiling and can be a bit hot for some. depends on how fast they eat it too. mine pretty much always get a dry cycle.

Thanks.

I'll try see if I can get h202. Not sure if they would sell it here in the UK in chemist's but I can check.

I normally do go a day at least where I don't feed at all, not sure if its the dehumidifier or the plants just drinking a lot but when I feed the plants with run off before going to work, I then check them when I get back home around 8 - 9 hours later and the res is more or less always dry, I always tip the buckets slightly to see if theres any run off before feeding again. The plants are always light by the time I get home.

Thanks again for replying, as always its appreciated

 

[Chuckeye]

Consider this, If you're using any sort of beneficial bacteria such as AN's Sensizym then you want to avoid using H2O2 because it will kill all your good bacteria.

And I will say it again, AN normally does not need Cal/Meg.

Cheers

 

[MGD420]

Consider this, If you're using any sort of beneficial bacteria such as AN's Sensizym then you want to avoid using H2O2 because it will kill all your good bacteria.

And I will say it again, AN normally does not need Cal/Meg.

Cheers

Thanks Chuckeye.

I don't have or use sensizym.
The only nutes and Supplements I have are the ones already mentioned
Micro, grow and bloom along with the big bud and overdrive. I was using B52 and Voodoo juice but those ran our recently and don't plant on buying anymore AN nutes after this grow as I still have 10L of canna nutrients that I need to use up.

 

[bluter]

Consider this, If you're using any sort of beneficial bacteria such as AN's Sensizym then you want to avoid using H2O2 because it will kill all your good bacteria.

And I will say it again, AN normally does not need Cal/Meg.

Cheers

he's in hempy. enzymes are completely irrelevant in that media. it's passive hydro. same reason your flush advice is wrong. does not apply to hempy media.

edit: it's all cool. i know you are trying to be helpful.

 

[bluter]

most AN lines can use calmag. especially under led.

 

[bluter]

dammit i'm corrected ! he's coco.
anyway same diff, it's passive hydro. no enzymes.

similar flush. h202 still works for coco. neutral media approach.

 

[Swamp Rat]

only fools rush in but here goes: the cation exchange sites in the coco are stripping cal & mag from the nutrient feed. with reduction of the cal & mag the heavier salts are causing both the taco and the necrosis. while coco is an inert substrate it is not chemically inert. raise the lights, lower the temp and flush with low base nutrients and a cal/mag product with low nitrogen. if the normal amount is 5ml per what ever I would run 50% more. return to full dose nutrients and the cal/mag for a couple of feedings and evaluate

 

[MGD420]

only fools rush in but here goes: the cation exchange sites in the coco are stripping cal & mag from the nutrient feed. with reduction of the cal & mag the heavier salts are causing both the taco and the necrosis. while coco is an inert substrate it is not chemically inert. raise the lights, lower the temp and flush with low base nutrients and a cal/mag product with low nitrogen. if the normal amount is 5ml per what ever I would run 50% more. return to full dose nutrients and the cal/mag for a couple of feedings and evaluate

Thanks for the reply Swamp Rat.

If I tried to raise my lights any higher they would be outside the tent, I've been having issues trying to dial in and control my temperature and humidity. At the moment my temps in the tent are sitting at 25C and humidity is at 45%. This is with the lights at the top of the tent turned down to around 75% intensity, an 6" ac infinity exhaust fan going at half speed with an 8" carbon filter attached, 2 oscilating fans and a dehumidifier.
I've tried using bigger fans inside the tent to circulate the air, opening the window and using a 4" ac infinity fan to pull fresh air in and venting exhaust air out and the humidity still rises. The dehumidifier is on almost 24/7 to try keep humidity down this in turn raises the temps in the tent over time.

The calmag I have at the moment it's canna calmag agent, It says it contains

Total nitrogen (N) 5.9%
Nitric Nitrogen (N-NO³) 5.1%
Ureic Nitrogen 0.8%
Calcium Oxide (CaO) (4.9%Ca) 6.8%
Magnesium Oxide (MgO) (1.4%Mg) 2.4%

 

[Sosixpew]

Not a professional either, but my guess would be pH imbalance.
couple things to remember.. depending on what water you use (city water, well, RO, etc) your EC/PPM/pH can start differently and will need you to adjust nutrients depending on which water you use.
Your pH pen/reader may need calibration. Might be reading 6.0, but actually is 7.5 or something and locking nutrients out.

I use Floraflex nutrients. They are a little pricey but the product is fantastic. They swear on their pH being stable and I can confirm this. I only need to pH my water when mixing the res & doesn’t change for days after.

 

[MGD420]

Not a professional either, but my guess would be pH imbalance.
couple things to remember.. depending on what water you use (city water, well, RO, etc) your EC/PPM/pH can start differently and will need you to adjust nutrients depending on which water you use.
Your pH pen/reader may need calibration. Might be reading 6.0, but actually is 7.5 or something and locking nutrients out.

I use Floraflex nutrients. They are a little pricey but the product is fantastic. They swear on their pH being stable and I can confirm this. I only need to pH my water when mixing the res & doesn’t change for days after.
They also share a step-by-step growing process on their IG

I could well be to do with the pH but the Advanced nutrients stay at the same pH constant, I checked this the other day, im sure it was around 5.3. I've added pH up to them before to 5.8 then went back an hour or two later and tested the water again and the pH has dropped back to the same level as before 5.3.
The nutrients are supposed to allow the plants to take the nutrients in at higher and lower pH levels.
I don't know exactly how it works or the science behind the whole advanced nutrients pH perfect line but they specifically say you don't need to change pH and don't recommend changing the pH.

The bluelabs pH pen works fine, I only used it for the first time and calibrated it the other day.

I can try changing the pH again tonight when I mix another batch for the plants.

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

Thanks for the reply Swamp Rat.

If I tried to raise my lights any higher they would be outside the tent, I've been having issues trying to dial in and control my temperature and humidity. At the moment my temps in the tent are sitting at 25C and humidity is at 45%. This is with the lights at the top of the tent turned down to around 75% intensity, an 6" ac infinity exhaust fan going at half speed with an 8" carbon filter attached, 2 oscilating fans and a dehumidifier.
I've tried using bigger fans inside the tent to circulate the air, opening the window and using a 4" ac infinity fan to pull fresh air in and venting exhaust air out and the humidity still rises. The dehumidifier is on almost 24/7 to try keep humidity down this in turn raises the temps in the tent over time.

The calmag I have at the moment it's canna calmag agent, It says it contains

Total nitrogen (N) 5.9%
Nitric Nitrogen (N-NO³) 5.1%
Ureic Nitrogen 0.8%
Calcium Oxide (CaO) (4.9%Ca) 6.8%
Magnesium Oxide (MgO) (1.4%Mg) 2.4%

get a new bottle of calmag , gh makes a good calmag , that calmag is adding way to much nitrogen for flower , nothing more than 1 % nitrogen in a calmag nute , and those ppm are way to high for coco , coco growing is a lower ppm per feed but it is fed 1-2 times a day to a good run off 20-25 % run off every time , those ppm numbers are for soil not hydro , hydro is lower numbers but fed more often and a good heavy run off , you cant over water coco just be sure you have good drainage on your pots and just a fyi , tap water doesn't work well with hydro types of grow , there is too much shit (salt mercury etc ) in it .never give a coco grow just plain water unless you are doing a final flush just before chop .those plants are over fed and lack a good calmag additive flush plants /really heavy run off (water plus 150 ppm of good calmag )then the next watering add about 600 ppm total of nutes /calmag , doing this twice a day .

 

[MGD420]

get a new bottle of calmag , gh makes a good calmag , that calmag is adding way to much nitrogen for flower , nothing more than 1 % nitrogen in a calmag nute , and those ppm are way to high for coco , coco growing is a lower ppm per feed but it is fed 1-2 times a day to a good run off 20-25 % run off every time , those ppm numbers are for soil not hydro , hydro is lower numbers but fed more often and a good heavy run off , you cant over water coco just be sure you have good drainage on your pots and just a fyi , tap water doesn't work well with hydro types of grow , there is too much shit (salt mercury etc ) in it .never give a coco grow just plain water unless you are doing a final flush just before chop .those plants are over fed and lack a good calmag additive flush plants /really heavy run off (water plus 150 ppm of good calmag )then the next watering add about 600 ppm total of nutes /calmag , doing this twice a day .

Thanks for the reply NOOOBIENOT.

Is gh (general hydroponics) and is it the calimagic I would be looking for.
I haven't used any calmag at all on the plants. The stuff I have at the moment I bought with the canna a and b nutrients, the canna brand of nutes are all designed specifically for coco, I think that's what canna specialise in but couldn't say if that applies to passive hydro like hempy though.

I don't know about the tap water where you are but the tap water here in Scotland is among some of the safest purest tap water in the world, and is generally considered safer to drink than some bottled water. I'm confident the water here is fine for feeding to the plants.

Thanks for giving recommended ppm for nutrients. Is the ppm you recommend specific to the advanced nutrients that I'm using.

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

Hello , yes gh is general hydroponics and yes those ppm # work for the nutes you are using , a general rule of thumb is yellow means feed me and brown tips means you are over feeding , i was refering to the water here in ontario canada so there for i can`t speak for the water quality in Scotland but a water quality test is always a good thing , we have labs here were we can have a total break down of what and how much of what is in our water , a lot of the universities here will do it for you for about $20 bucks canadian its a lot easier to add more nutes if you start to see your plants yellowing than to remove the excess nutes, yellowing is easier to fix and quicker than trying to get a plant that is burn from over feeding healthy again .

 

[MGD420]

Hello , yes gh is general hydroponics and yes those ppm # work for the nutes you are using , a general rule of thumb is yellow means feed me and brown tips means you are over feeding , i was refering to the water here in ontario canada so there for i can`t speak for the water quality in Scotland but a water quality test is always a good thing , we have labs here were we can have a total break down of what and how much of what is in our water , a lot of the universities here will do it for you for about $20 bucks canadian its a lot easier to add more nutes if you start to see your plants yellowing than to remove the excess nutes, yellowing is easier to fix and quicker than trying to get a plant that is burn from over feeding healthy again .

Thanks

Is this the right stuff ? They don't seem to sell or stock the GE Calimagic in the UK at least not what I have seen when searching online.

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

as long as it has a less than 2 % nitrogen in it , then it will work , you don't want the extra nitrogen in it once you go to flower as some calmags have almost 5% nitrogen in it , any brand works it the % of nitrogen in it that matters and it works in hydro or soil applications .

 

[MGD420]

as long as it has a less than 2 % nitrogen in it , then it will work , you don't want the extra nitrogen in it once you go to flower as some calmags have almost 5% nitrogen in it , any brand works it the % of nitrogen in it that matters and it works in hydro or soil applications .

Thanks

I'll try and have a look to see if I can find the label content for the calmag.

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

it will have to tell you on the bottle the nitrogen % or the website you plan on purchasing it from

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

this has a 1% nitrogen in it this is what i use, amazon has it

 

[MGD420]

this has a 1% nitrogen in it this is what i use, amazon has it

That is available on amazon UK but I won't be buying that at £53.68 available in 1 quart size (946 Ml) must be coming from canada or usa as delivery is between 1st and 13th of April also. By the time it takes to deliver the plants would be either dead or ready to harvest lol

Guess I'll need to try find something else