Why am I failing so badly?

First off distilled water is the worst for plants it can actually kill the plant if left to its own device. Second those plants should be in at least 5 gallon pots at day 52 The soil mix I have stated peat moss And vermiculite is only 2/3rds of a grow mix. Your missing the soil and the good stuff in soil I. E. Bacterias and you said gh grow box that's not a nutrient that's a grow method and your not doing it grow boxes are a reservoir/wic grow not solo cups. Bro those solo cups are good for about 2 weeks that's it. I'm seeing massive deficiencies in magnesium calcium phosphorous and nitrogen. In other words your a mess brother. I'll not keep typing but if you want advice ask and I'll answer to the best of my ability. And your not dead yet so don't give up


Ohioboy can't stop!! Ohioboy With Fast Buds - Let's See How Fast Exactly
 
JimmyJames905 said:
Buddy. You're lucky. I'm in the Hammer.
If you want to make growing pot easy get some of this.
420-magazine-mobile1820108544.jpg


It has calcium, gypsum, limestone, compost, worm castings and plenty of perlite. Everything you need. It's ph adjusted and self buffers to 6.5.
Just add water. Look at the results in my journals.


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Click to expand...

Best soils in a bag available to us in the United States imho is fox farms I prefer the ocean forest but the frog is good as well. If you want to grow good herb you've got to have good soil good nutrients and good light. Now you can grow pot in just dirt with just water under a shit light but your gonna get slow flowering low grade and small yields. If your gonna do it do it right at least to the best of your ability.


Ohioboy can't stop!! Ohioboy With Fast Buds - Let's See How Fast Exactly
 
ohioboy said:
Best soils in a bag available to us in the United States imho is fox farms I prefer the ocean forest but the frog is good as well. If you want to grow good herb you've got to have good soil good nutrients and good light. Now you can grow pot in just dirt with just water under a shit light but your gonna get slow flowering low grade and small yields. If your gonna do it do it right at least to the best of your ability.


Ohioboy can't stop!! Ohioboy With Fast Buds - Let's See How Fast Exactly
Click to expand...

I agree. FFOF is very similar to the ProMix Herb n Veg. The most important factor in any soil for cannabis is the self buffering ph gained from lime, calcium, gypsum and/or Dolomite. FFOF has them all. I see more people killing their plants with ff because they don't read the bag. It says "Just add water, no nutes till bloom"
420-magazine-mobile195328986.jpg
if you use FFOF properly as directed you get fantastic results. Same with ProMix herb n veg. Just add water, use as directed, no nutes till bloom, great results. More importantly NO PROBLEMS.


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muraydog said:
I'm gonna do my best to save these babies, but will start with new seeds.
Click to expand...

Don't bother starting new seeds.

I'm going to be brutally blunt, not out of malice or meanness, but out of a desire to see you succeed. You are failing, quite spectacularly, because you failed to educate yourself. There are thousands of web pages, videos, and step-by-step tutorials dedicated to the cultivation of marijuana. You need to avail yourself of that knowledge. Read, watch videos, or attend beginning gardener classes depending on your learning style.

Read before seed! Growing can be a rewarding and enjoyable adventure, or a stressful, frustrating battle. The plant is going to do what it's genetics tell it to do. You can either help or hinder depending on your level of understanding.

Educate yourself, and then go kick some ass and grow great weed!


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Rider509 said:
Don't bother starting new seeds.

I'm going to be brutally blunt, not out of malice or meanness, but out of a desire to see you succeed. You are failing, quite spectacularly, because you failed to educate yourself. There are thousands of web pages, videos, and step-by-step tutorials dedicated to the cultivation of marijuana. You need to avail yourself of that knowledge. Read, watch videos, or attend beginning gardener classes depending on your learning style.

Read before seed! Growing can be a rewarding and enjoyable adventure, or a stressful, frustrating battle. The plant is going to do what it's genetics tell it to do. You can either help or hinder depending on your level of understanding.

Educate yourself, and then go kick some ass and grow great weed!


Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App
Click to expand...

Literally the best advice to any new grower.


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JimmyJames905 said:
I agree. FFOF is very similar to the ProMix Herb n Veg. The most important factor in any soil for cannabis is the self buffering ph gained from lime, calcium, gypsum and/or Dolomite. FFOF has them all. I see more people killing their plants with ff because they don't read the bag. It says "Just add water, no nutes till bloom"
420-magazine-mobile195328986.jpg
if you use FFOF properly as directed you get fantastic results. Same with ProMix herb n veg. Just add water, use as directed, no nutes till bloom, great results. More importantly NO PROBLEMS.


Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App
Click to expand...

I start full strength full line general hydroponics nutes in ffof at day 7 from germination and harvest in less than 100 days from germination. My journal has three different grows pages 1-19 then 19-42 then 42-current check it out


Ohioboy can't stop!! Ohioboy With Fast Buds - Let's See How Fast Exactly
 
"You are failing, quite spectacularly, because you failed to educate yourself"

In fact i DID educate myself. Thanks for asking. Unfortunately, there is a tremendous amount of conflicting and erroneous information out there, especially if you have problems. I filled a notebook with information and watched days of videos before I even started. I even asked for information on the 420 Grow forum. I even have a fucking degree in biology! Instead of insulting me, maybe your time would be better served offering me advice. I get that the grow is a fucking disaster. If it had gone according to any of the several tutorials I followed, I wouldn't be in this situation.
 
Wow....Calm down bro. He was just trying to help. Maybe you're just trying to hard, cannabis isn't to hard to grow. Hope you figure it out because when you so it's extremely rewarding. Don't give up.

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muraydog said:
"You are failing, quite spectacularly, because you failed to educate yourself"

In fact i DID educate myself. Thanks for asking. Unfortunately, there is a tremendous amount of conflicting and erroneous information out there, especially if you have problems. I filled a notebook with information and watched days of videos before I even started. I even asked for information on the 420 Grow forum. I even have a fucking degree in biology! Instead of insulting me, maybe your time would be better served offering me advice. I get that the grow is a fucking disaster. If it had gone according to any of the several tutorials I followed, I wouldn't be in this situation.
Click to expand...

Ok. I get you're frustrated. It's not easy for an educated person like yourself to take failure gracefully. This is what you need to do.
1) Keep it Simple
Use the ProMix Herb and Veg mix. Unless you've got several grows under your belt playing with hydroponics, DWC, ProMix BX, etc is completely out of the question. There is too much contradictory information out there for beginners. So keep it simple.
2) Avoid nutes at all costs.
You don't need them. It's a myth. A good soil contains everything you need. Cannabis has evolved for millions of years without the aid of general hydroponics, GOboxes or fox farms nutrient line up. Contrary to opinion, FloraBloom does not rain from the sky.
3) As in nature, so in your garden.
Emulate nature. Good light, good water and good soil. That's what nature wants. Adding this, that and the other thing will only bring you problems, lost time, lost money and frustration.
4) Listen to professionals.
If you get advice from someone check their Grow journals. If their plants look like shit...don't listen to them. You will get a hundred opinions from a hundred people regarding one problem. 99% of them are WRONG! If you say "I have a problem" and the first answer is "add cal mag" don't listen to them. Plants need very little calcium or magnesium. What people don't realize is the reason cal mag works is because it's a PH buffer and will (temporarily) buffer your soil to 6.5. 99% of the time the plant wasn't low on cal mag...it's ph was off and cal mag temporarily fixed the problem. Emphasis on temporarily. A "Just add cal mag bro" situation can be fixed/avoided permanently by using a soil that contains Limestone, gypsum and/or dolomitic lime.
Now I don't want to sound conceited but this is what I do for a living. I have two degrees in sciences directly related to growing cannabis. Biology and BioMed. I grow for ACMPR patients who can't (or successively fail to) grow Cannabis.
So if you want to be successful and make your life easier GET THE PROMIX HERB AND VEGETABLE AND JUST ADD WATER.

Sincerely....
420-magazine-mobile1278221204.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App
 
Definitely a lot of bad info out there, good info poorly written or incomplete, and info that assumes grower has $1000s to spend on equipment that's of no use to those just starting out. I spent 3 months surfing web before I found this site. Even read a Grow Bible with great details that didn't apply to me and missing answers to tons of questions I had as a noob.

I've only been growing for less than a year and already I'm starting to take what I've learned for granted sometimes. I think experienced growers need to realize that they sometimes suck at teaching others because they know too much to understand a noob's question. Easy to make assumptions and miss the point.

This site is about learning. You're here to learn and that makes you one of us if you care to stay. I'm following your journal and look forward to the first of many great harvests.
:Namaste:
 
JimmyJames905 said:
Ok. I get you're frustrated. It's not easy for an educated person like yourself to take failure gracefully. This is what you need to do.
1) Keep it Simple
Use the ProMix Herb and Veg mix. Unless you've got several grows under your belt playing with hydroponics, DWC, ProMix BX, etc is completely out of the question. There is too much contradictory information out there for beginners. So keep it simple.
2) Avoid nutes at all costs.
You don't need them. It's a myth. A good soil contains everything you need. Cannabis has evolved for millions of years without the aid of general hydroponics, GOboxes or fox farms nutrient line up. Contrary to opinion, FloraBloom does not rain from the sky.
3) As in nature, so in your garden.
Emulate nature. Good light, good water and good soil. That's what nature wants. Adding this, that and the other thing will only bring you problems, lost time, lost money and frustration.
4) Listen to professionals.
If you get advice from someone check their Grow journals. If their plants look like shit...don't listen to them. You will get a hundred opinions from a hundred people regarding one problem. 99% of them are WRONG! If you say "I have a problem" and the first answer is "add cal mag" don't listen to them. Plants need very little calcium or magnesium. What people don't realize is the reason cal mag works is because it's a PH buffer and will (temporarily) buffer your soil to 6.5. 99% of the time the plant wasn't low on cal mag...it's ph was off and cal mag temporarily fixed the problem. Emphasis on temporarily. A "Just add cal mag bro" situation can be fixed/avoided permanently by using a soil that contains Limestone, gypsum and/or dolomitic lime.
Now I don't want to sound conceited but this is what I do for a living. I have two degrees in sciences directly related to growing cannabis. Biology and BioMed. I grow for ACMPR patients who can't (or successively fail to) grow Cannabis.
So if you want to be successful and make your life easier GET THE PROMIX HERB AND VEGETABLE AND JUST ADD WATER.

Sincerely....
420-magazine-mobile1278221204.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App
Click to expand...
Super enriched organic soils are not for beginners. Specially when transplanting is involved. If a 2 week old seedling only needs 150ppm of salt based nutrients and your water source is 200ppm and your soil is already at 500ppm, problems start then. Besides NPK , my experience is that Magnesium could be the 4th of the macro nutrients. Magnesium is the central molecule in the chloroform ion needed for photosynthesis. Although not needed as much as the NPK, still vital . CalMag during veg, cal sulphur at week 6 of flower to fatten up flowers. Healthier the plant, the more light it can convert to sugar.

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ChronicAffair said:
Super enriched organic soils are not for beginners. Specially when transplanting is involved. If a 2 week old seedling only needs 150ppm of salt based nutrients and your water source is 200ppm and your soil is already at 500ppm, problems start then. Besides NPK , my experience is that Magnesium could be the 4th of the macro nutrients. Magnesium is the central molecule in the chloroform ion needed for photosynthesis. Although not needed as much as the NPK, still vital . CalMag during veg, cal sulphur at week 6 of flower to fatten up flowers. Healthier the plant, the more light it can convert to sugar.

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Click to expand...

It's not a "super enriched soil". It's a organic soil that contains everything 6.5 ph loving plants need. But you don't add anything but water so you wouldn't require any salt based nutrients. The nutrients in ProMix H&V are organic compost. No synthesized nutrients are added. Also chloroform does not contain magnesium and magnesium doesn't contain chloroform. Chloroform is 1 hydrogen, 1 carbon and 3 chlorine. I would not use anything that had chloroform in it. I think you meant chlorophyll but got auto corrected.
Magnesium contains no chemical bonds to chlorine unless it's magnesium chloride.
The magnesium in soil is not elemental magnesium, it's MG2 which is the ion used in the production of chlorophyll. If your soil has lime, limestone, gypsum or Dolomite then it has magnesium. Lime, gypsum etc are all compounds that contain calcium and magnesium.


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Far as I can tell you're trying to hard ain't rocket science most people aren't scientist you don't need a degree to grow weed my first grow I failed miserably lost of lot of time and investment but I didn't give up for some of us it's try and error that's the way for some it's easier than others I think when we are growing something that lives you have to nurture it care for it and sometimes discipline it it is just like raising a child don't give up man you'll make a right the next time around


I love my green girls
 
Unless your water is RO filtered, it is salt based. Better to start with RO and add your calcium and mag. Stupid autocorrect. Lol. Of course chlorophyll. I use Dolomite Lime and epsom in my outdoor. Just saying with indoor application it's harder for rookies because it's harder to control nutrient levels.

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ChronicAffair said:
Unless your water is RO filtered, it is salt based. Better to start with RO and add your calcium and mag. Stupid autocorrect. Lol. Of course chlorophyll. I use Dolomite Lime and epsom in my outdoor. Just saying with indoor application it's harder for rookies because it's harder to control nutrient levels.

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Click to expand...

True. Tap water does contain salts. That's why the ProMix hv contains gypsum. Gypsum is calcium sulphate which reacts with chlorine (hypochlorite) to kick out a chlorine atom make it more inert. The benefits of Gypsum are too many to list.
But I'm going to go ahead and list them. Lol.
GYPSUM CORRECTS SUBSOIL ACIDITY
Gypsum can improve some acid soils even beyond what lime can do for them. Surface crusting can be prevented. Gypsum is now being widely used on acid soils.

Gypsum Can Enhance the Values of Liming
Addition to soil together with lime increased crop yields. The combination also decreased leaching losses of potassium and magnesium.

Gypsum Improves Water-Use Efficiency
Gypsum increases water-use efficiency of crops. In areas and times of drought, this is extremely important. Improved water infiltration rates, improved hydraulic conductivity of soil, better water storage in the soil all lead to deeper rooting and better water-use efficiency. From 25 to 100 percent more water is available in gypsum-treated soils than in nontreated soils.

Gypsum Creates Favorable Soil EC
Gypsum, being readily soluble, results in proper buffered solute concentration (EC) in soil to maintain soil in a flocculated state. It is better environmentally and cost wise to maintain the needed EC with gypsum than with excess application of fertilizers.

Gypsum Makes it Possible to Efficiently Use Low Quality Irrigation Water
Use of reclaimed municipal waste water is important for conservation of natural resources. Reclaimed water can be satisfactorily used if amendments, such as gypsum and water-soluble polymers, are also used.

Gypsum Decreases Dust Erosion
Use of gypsum can decrease wind and water erosion of soil. Severe dust problems can be decreased, especially when combined with use of water-soluble polymers.

Gypsum Helps Plants Absorb Plant Nutrients
Calcium, which is supplied in gypsum, is essential to the biochemical mechanisms by which most plants nutrients are absorbed by roots. Without adequate calcium, uptake mechanisms would fail.

Gypsum Decreases Heavy-Metal Toxicity
Calcium also acts as a regulator of the balance of particularly the micronutrients, such as iron, zinc, manganese and copper, in plants. It also regulates non-essential trace elements. Calcium prevents excess uptake of many of them; and once they are in the plant, calcium keeps them from having adverse effects when their levels get high. Calcium in liberal quantities helps to maintain a healthy balance of nutrients and non-nutrients within plants.

Gypsum Increases Value of Organics
Gypsum adds to the value of organic amendments.

Gypsum Improves Fruit Quality and Prevents Some Plant Diseases
Calcium is nearly always only marginally sufficient and often deficient in developing fruits. Good fruit quality requires an adequate amount of calcium. Calcium moves very slowly, if at all, from one plant part to another and fruits at the end of the transport system get too little. Calcium must be constantly available to the roots. In very high pH soils, calcium is not available enough; therefore, gypsum helps. Gypsum is used for peanuts, which develop below ground, to keep them disease free. Gypsum helps prevent blossom-end rot of watermelon and tomatoes and bitter pit in apples. Gypsum is preferred over lime for potatoes grown in acid soils so that scab may be controlled. Root rot of avocado trees cased by Phytophthora is partially corrected by gypsum and organics.

Gypsum is a Source of Sulfur
Gypsum is a source of fertilizer sulfur.

Gypsum Helps Prepare Soil for No-Till Management
A liberal application of gypsum is a good procedure for starting a piece of land into no-till soil management or pasture.

Gypsum Decreases Bulk Density of Soil
Gypsum-treated soil has a lower bulk density compared with untreated soil.

Gypsum Decreases the Toxic Effect of NaCI Salinity
Calcium from gypsum has a physiological role in inhibiting the uptake of sodium by plants.

Gypsum Multiplies the Value of Other Inputs
Gypsum can improve the response to all other inputs including fertilizers.

Gypsum Can Decrease pH of Rhizosphere
Increased calcium uptake by roots when gypsum is applied can decrease the pH of the rhizosphere.

Gypsum Keeps Clay Off Tuber and Root Crops
Gypsum can help keep clay particles from adhering to roots, bulbs and tubers of crops like potato, carrots, garlic and beets.

Gypsum Decreases Loss Of Fertilizer Nitrogen to the Air
Calcium from gypsum can help decrease volatilization loss of ammonium nitrogen from applications of ammonia, ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium sulfate, or any of the ammonium phosphates.

Gypsum Can be a Source of Oxygen for Plants
The sulfate that is taken up by plants and metabolized releases the associated oxygen which is a source of oxygen to plant roots although a limited source.


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