tonybalony
New Member
Why are lower leaves yellowing and falling off? please help!
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- Start date
tonybalony
New Member
se quella grande e LSD secondo me sara pronta verso fine ottobre inizio novembre per un buon raccolto confidando nel tempo clemente sai ci sono le muffe le temo molto su qualunque pianta ma questa in particolare per quelle piccole seminate a fine luglio la vedo piu difficile la maturazione se coltivate outdoor
- Thread starter
- #163
quoting this because i still need a product with high hydrogen, and here's an update:
first thing:
i havent sprayed neem for 2 days, and look here:
i guess the pests will go away with the cold, cos if they dont, im gonna be in trouble lol i cant spray during flowering
second thing:
now, this is a really weird thing.
as you know, my plants need nitrogen, so i've been giving them quite a lot of fish mix.
guess what:
so much fish mix that the leaves are dark green now.
now that would be good news... if the yellow leaves werent still yellow...
these last 3 pictures are from the same plant. dark green leaves on the top, yellow on the bottom. that doesnt make much sense if you ask me, maybe u guys know more.
you can also see , in the last picture, the leaf has some brown spots, do u guys know what that might be?
however what worries me the most is the second plant, the lower leaves are completely yellow (even the young ones) despite all the fish mix:
many questions here... hope you guys can answer them... thanks in advance!
edit: incase ur wondering why the soil was covered, its because i sprayed a lot of neem and didnt want it to go in the soil
just in case you missed it 
quoting this because i still need a product with high hydrogen, and here's an update:
first thing:
i havent sprayed neem for 2 days, and look here:
i guess the pests will go away with the cold, cos if they dont, im gonna be in trouble lol i cant spray during flowering
second thing:
now, this is a really weird thing.
as you know, my plants need nitrogen, so i've been giving them quite a lot of fish mix.
guess what:
so much fish mix that the leaves are dark green now.
now that would be good news... if the yellow leaves werent still yellow...
these last 3 pictures are from the same plant. dark green leaves on the top, yellow on the bottom. that doesnt make much sense if you ask me, maybe u guys know more.
you can also see , in the last picture, the leaf has some brown spots, do u guys know what that might be?
however what worries me the most is the second plant, the lower leaves are completely yellow (even the young ones) despite all the fish mix:
many questions here... hope you guys can answer them... thanks in advance!
edit: incase ur wondering why the soil was covered, its because i sprayed a lot of neem and didnt want it to go in the soil
- Thread starter
- #165
ah right yea i missed it sorry, either way i still need a product with high hydrogen, if i keep giving the plant a lot of fish mix lots of other shit is gonna build up in the soil anyways. and also the yellow leaves under the little plant, those scare me lol
- Thread starter
- #167
quoting this because i still need a product with high hydrogen, and here's an update:
first thing:
i havent sprayed neem for 2 days, and look here:
i guess the pests will go away with the cold, cos if they dont, im gonna be in trouble lol i cant spray during flowering
second thing:
now, this is a really weird thing.
as you know, my plants need nitrogen, so i've been giving them quite a lot of fish mix.
guess what:
so much fish mix that the leaves are dark green now.
now that would be good news... if the yellow leaves werent still yellow...
these last 3 pictures are from the same plant. dark green leaves on the top, yellow on the bottom. that doesnt make much sense if you ask me, maybe u guys know more.
you can also see , in the last picture, the leaf has some brown spots, do u guys know what that might be?
however what worries me the most is the second plant, the lower leaves are completely yellow (even the young ones) despite all the fish mix:
many questions here... hope you guys can answer them... thanks in advance!
edit: incase ur wondering why the soil was covered, its because i sprayed a lot of neem and didnt want it to go in the soil
quoting this because i still need some answers on some things..
and
should i start using biobizz bio bloom? im not sure if this is preflowering or flowering:
tell me if u need better shots please
- Thread starter
- #168
)I think its safe to use spinosad upto 2 days before harvesting, but some people says it leaves an odour and residue on the plant. you may want to ease off spinosad as a foliar several weeks before harvest and just use it as a soil drench until flush.
follow the feed schedule of your nutrient provider, or from the community using the same foods as you. I have only used blueplanet and biobizz that are specific to MJ, I like the idea of 'if it aint broke, don't fix it'
follow the feed schedule of your nutrient provider, or from the community using the same foods as you. I have only used blueplanet and biobizz that are specific to MJ, I like the idea of 'if it aint broke, don't fix it'
- Thread starter
- #170
by bloom i meant biobizz bio bloom, what do you think of that? once or twice a week?
I use spinosad up to 7 days before harvest. Technically you can use it day of harvest.
For chem ferts use them at most once every 5 days.
For chem ferts use them at most once every 5 days.
- Thread starter
- #173
its very good that i can use spinosad in flowering (since i can't use neem) so thank you guys for suggesting that.
the thrips are gone, now i have mainly grasshoppers on my plants, i guess spinosad can take care of those too? if not then i won't use it
(already caught 2 of those green bastards, threw em in the trash lol). not a big deal but better to prevent those kind of things, then to wake up the next morning and see every grower's nightmare..
the thrips are gone, now i have mainly grasshoppers on my plants, i guess spinosad can take care of those too? if not then i won't use it
(already caught 2 of those green bastards, threw em in the trash lol). not a big deal but better to prevent those kind of things, then to wake up the next morning and see every grower's nightmare..
- Thread starter
- #175
haha no war on nature m8 
when it was just 1 i was ignoring it, but since i started seeing more damage and more of those guys around, i didnt want it to become an infestation... we'll see how it goes
when it was just 1 i was ignoring it, but since i started seeing more damage and more of those guys around, i didnt want it to become an infestation... we'll see how it goes
Scientific Soils
New Member
OK! This is all good. I don't know why I stopped getting email updates, but I'm glad I decided to check in.
Yeah, so the Nitrogen FINALLY kicked in. Good work. Nitrogen is mobile so it is easily moved around the plant, which is why it starts at the bottom (but quickly spreads to create a uniform yellowing). Other deficiencies can prevent uniform greening even after the N is adequately supplied.
The thing that is unique to nitrogen (macro) and sulfur (micro) is that they quickly produce a uniform yellowing. (Now, to be clear sulfur deficiency TENDS to start at the top because it is not highly mobile and nitrogen deficiency TENDS to start at the bottom because it is. Both are involved in protein synthesis, though, so they will show up throughout the plant fairly quickly.)
The reason your bottom leaves are veining is because you have another mobile nutrient deficiency. Whatever that nutrient is, the plant is moving it FROM the old growth (bottom) TO the new growth (top) which is why the bottom leaves are yellow (depleted).
The possibilities for this are MOST LIKELY: K, Mg, P. In that order.
Now, since you have also identified necrotic lesions AND an exceptionally dark green coloration, we can be pretty darn sure that you have a phosphorous (P) deficiency.
As for spinosad, you're safe. Bugs aren't.
By the way, what do you mean you need hydrogen?
Yeah, so the Nitrogen FINALLY kicked in. Good work. Nitrogen is mobile so it is easily moved around the plant, which is why it starts at the bottom (but quickly spreads to create a uniform yellowing). Other deficiencies can prevent uniform greening even after the N is adequately supplied.
The thing that is unique to nitrogen (macro) and sulfur (micro) is that they quickly produce a uniform yellowing. (Now, to be clear sulfur deficiency TENDS to start at the top because it is not highly mobile and nitrogen deficiency TENDS to start at the bottom because it is. Both are involved in protein synthesis, though, so they will show up throughout the plant fairly quickly.)
The reason your bottom leaves are veining is because you have another mobile nutrient deficiency. Whatever that nutrient is, the plant is moving it FROM the old growth (bottom) TO the new growth (top) which is why the bottom leaves are yellow (depleted).
The possibilities for this are MOST LIKELY: K, Mg, P. In that order.
Now, since you have also identified necrotic lesions AND an exceptionally dark green coloration, we can be pretty darn sure that you have a phosphorous (P) deficiency.
As for spinosad, you're safe. Bugs aren't.
By the way, what do you mean you need hydrogen?
- Thread starter
- #177
oh, so you mean the fact that some lower leaves are still yellow(thats what you mean by "veining" right? or maybe not... i didnt see any veins in the lower leaves so i assume it means that) its another deficiency? i thought those were supposed to stay yellow-ish it to be pulled off (because they would take weeks to become green again right?)
and i meant nitrogen lol, sorry. i said that because i thought giving it a lot of fish mix to compensate the N deficiency might give too much of other nutrients and destabilize the whole thing.
and i meant nitrogen lol, sorry. i said that because i thought giving it a lot of fish mix to compensate the N deficiency might give too much of other nutrients and destabilize the whole thing.
Scientific Soils
New Member
Yep, you go it.
- Thread starter
- #180
ok so i have a P deficiency. well makes sense because flowering has started and im still giving it veg nutrients(wasnt sure if it was still preflower).
tomorrow she's getting bio bloom(1ml/l) and monday she's getting a guano + molasses tea, that should be plenty of PK.
btw, how powerful does an air pump need to be to make 3 gallons of tea? im not sure my pump is powerful enough, i think its measured with a number?
another thing, wont spinosad harm the bacteria if i use as soil drench?
and should i avoid spraying directly on the buds?
tomorrow she's getting bio bloom(1ml/l) and monday she's getting a guano + molasses tea, that should be plenty of PK.
btw, how powerful does an air pump need to be to make 3 gallons of tea? im not sure my pump is powerful enough, i think its measured with a number?
another thing, wont spinosad harm the bacteria if i use as soil drench?
and should i avoid spraying directly on the buds?
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