Aspen's Top Feed Undercurrent RDWC Blue Dream

Day 5 veg (11 days from seed):

PH: 6.6
PPM: 736
Water Temp: 75F
Tent Temp: 74F - 82F
RH: 36% - 43%

Everything looks good this evening! I don't have a layer of bubbles in the res, and it's still clear. This is a big improvement over what the res looked like when I added the Defguard last week. I'm glad I made the decision to switch to the Hydroguard, and I've decided to not listen to my local Hydro store guy when making local purchases.

Upon closer inspection, I discovered some roots growing at the same level as the rapid rooter. I planted it a half inch lower than the top of the net pot to ensure I didn't get any algae growth from the top feed ring. I knew I'd need to add some hydroton to cover this, and now that I see it, that's exactly what I did.

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It's kind of hard to tell, so I caught it early enough. Directly below the stem (the image is sideways, my bad) you can see a tuft of white roots starting to protrude. This is why I added hydroton.


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The res is completely free of that layer of bubbles that existed last week a day after I added the Defguard.

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420 mag, meet Aspen! She's the cultivator here, I just make the posts :)

Everything is on track, and looks good.
 
Day 5 veg (11 days from seed):

PH: 6.6

I've decided to not listen to my local Hydro store guy when making local purchases.
Nice work. If you can, I’d recommend trying to keep the PH closer to 6.0 (+/- .1). If it varies up or down to 5.7 or 6.3 it’s not a deal breaker or anything, but 6 will be optimal. Personally, I do seeds at 5.5, young plants at 5.7, and then 6 (or as close to 6 as I can maintain) throughout rest of grow. Variation is totally normal, so don’t panic if it’s off 6, but try to be close.

LOL and you’re spot on, don’t listen to the guy at the hydro store (unless he’s a friend or cool). Ask ppl here that are growing quality plants you can actually see.
 
Hello all,

Today is a much smaller update. I'm going to attempt to update once a day, as this is going to be a place I'll look back on and see progress etc.

Day 8 From Seed

PH: 6.2
PPM: 400
Water Temp: 71.6F
Tent Temps: low 73, high 79
RH: low 39, high 44

PH has risen and PPM has fallen. I remember reading about PH and PPM rising and falling and what it meant, so I need to go look that up again to see if this is on track. I adjusted PH down to 5.7, and PPMs rose to 456. I still am seeing some pale yellow build-up going on inside the res, and it's grown bigger today. Nothing looks out of the normal though so I'm going to stay the course until something bad happens. Or, you know, something.

I posted in the problems forum for anyone interested, and the link is located here.



I’ve got a formula from Grandpa Tokin (water level , ec,and ph) and a ph guide
 

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I appreciate it , like this one a lot better!
What did you think about the one I got from Grandpa Tokin.
Don’t read anything on the right till you till you figure out what you have on the left!
 
Nice work. If you can, I’d recommend trying to keep the PH closer to 6.0 (+/- .1). If it varies up or down to 5.7 or 6.3 it’s not a deal breaker or anything, but 6 will be optimal. Personally, I do seeds at 5.5, young plants at 5.7, and then 6 (or as close to 6 as I can maintain) throughout rest of grow. Variation is totally normal, so don’t panic if it’s off 6, but try to be close.

Yeah, that's what I've been battling this entire time. I'm going to go more into this during the update, but essentially I'm finding that I'd lower the PH down to 5.7, and 24 hours later it raises to 6.5 or somewhere around there. Since she's so young still, I end up adding PH Down which increases my PPMs. Tough balance in this single bucket, and I can't wait for Tuesday to build the recirculating system. Thanks for stopping in!

Hello AngryBird! Thanks for coming by!

WestHippie - That's some awesome information, and I'm grateful you've shared it! I've saved it and I'm going to study that chart especially. I want to learn to feed my plants based on what they need, not a tight, unmoving schedule. I know each strain is going to be different, so that's going to help me reach that goal. Thanks!

Day 6 Veg:

PH: 6.3
PPM: 826
Water Temp: 74F
Tent Temp: 74F - 82F
RH: 37% - 43%

I woke up this morning to the sound of my Battery Backup chirping: We lost power. I unplugged the battery backup and moved it over to the grow, and shut off both fans and my weather station. The only things drawing power were the light and the air pump. I had approximately 27 minutes until the battery ran out of juice. Luckily enough, when the battery was down to 3 minutes, the power turned back on. Great!

The PPM is way too high, and it's up 50 PPM from yesterday. I also am seeing light green coloring on the new growth and the leaf tips. The tips are also developing brown burn spots. Two things are suspect here: Low PH and High PPM. "But Aspen, look at your PH numbers!" Yeah, I know. How can it be low PH? I calibrated my PH meter when this grow began two weeks ago, and I haven't calibrate it since. I started researching why my leaves were yellowing and came across a picture of a plant that had been subjected to low ph, around 4.5. Looks exactly like mine. This got me thinking, so I broke out my 4.0 calibration fluid and plugged my PH meter into it. Welp, it was off by around 0.8. This means if I adjust to 5.5, I'm actually adjusting to 4.7, obviously entirely too low. So I'm going to use the calibration fluid more often now, to make sure I'm measuring correctly.

Then I started taking a look at the PPMs as well, so I threw my meter into some 1500 PPM calibration solution (at 77F). It registered 1796. Fuck. But that also doesn't make a whole lot of sense, because my tap water comes out around 250 or so, which 'most' city water is around that number. So I've put in a request to refund my TDS meter because it's not calibratable, and I'll get one that is.

Since the PPMs are so high, I threw half the res out and added 2 gallons of (properly calibrated) PHed and Hydroguard plain water. This brought my PH down to 5.7, and my PPMs down to 530. 530 is what the meter is reading, and if I'm to believe the PPM calibration fluid is really supposed to be 1500, that means my PPM count is really 330. Who knows. I'm going to be getting a more expensive one which can be calibrated one here shortly.

On to the pics!


She looks crazy in this picture, like she's missing some part of her three finger leaves. They're just bent and curled in odd ways, which becomes more apparent in the last pic. Nothing is cut tho, or missing. It's all there.


 
Yeah, that's what I've been battling this entire time. I'm going to go more into this during the update, but essentially I'm finding that I'd lower the PH down to 5.7, and 24 hours later it raises to 6.5 or somewhere around there. Since she's so young still, I end up adding PH Down which increases my PPMs. Tough balance in this single bucket, and I can't wait for Tuesday to build the recirculating system. Thanks for stopping in!

Hello AngryBird! Thanks for coming by!

WestHippie - That's some awesome information, and I'm grateful you've shared it! I've saved it and I'm going to study that chart especially. I want to learn to feed my plants based on what they need, not a tight, unmoving schedule. I know each strain is going to be different, so that's going to help me reach that goal. Thanks!

Day 6 Veg:

PH: 6.3
PPM: 826
Water Temp: 74F
Tent Temp: 74F - 82F
RH: 37% - 43%

I woke up this morning to the sound of my Battery Backup chirping: We lost power. I unplugged the battery backup and moved it over to the grow, and shut off both fans and my weather station. The only things drawing power were the light and the air pump. I had approximately 27 minutes until the battery ran out of juice. Luckily enough, when the battery was down to 3 minutes, the power turned back on. Great!

The PPM is way too high, and it's up 50 PPM from yesterday. I also am seeing light green coloring on the new growth and the leaf tips. The tips are also developing brown burn spots. Two things are suspect here: Low PH and High PPM. "But Aspen, look at your PH numbers!" Yeah, I know. How can it be low PH? I calibrated my PH meter when this grow began two weeks ago, and I haven't calibrate it since. I started researching why my leaves were yellowing and came across a picture of a plant that had been subjected to low ph, around 4.5. Looks exactly like mine. This got me thinking, so I broke out my 4.0 calibration fluid and plugged my PH meter into it. Welp, it was off by around 0.8. This means if I adjust to 5.5, I'm actually adjusting to 4.7, obviously entirely too low. So I'm going to use the calibration fluid more often now, to make sure I'm measuring correctly.

Then I started taking a look at the PPMs as well, so I threw my meter into some 1500 PPM calibration solution (at 77F). It registered 1796. Fuck. But that also doesn't make a whole lot of sense, because my tap water comes out around 250 or so, which 'most' city water is around that number. So I've put in a request to refund my TDS meter because it's not calibratable, and I'll get one that is.

Since the PPMs are so high, I threw half the res out and added 2 gallons of (properly calibrated) PHed and Hydroguard plain water. This brought my PH down to 5.7, and my PPMs down to 530. 530 is what the meter is reading, and if I'm to believe the PPM calibration fluid is really supposed to be 1500, that means my PPM count is really 330. Who knows. I'm going to be getting a more expensive one which can be calibrated one here shortly.

On to the pics!


She looks crazy in this picture, like she's missing some part of her three finger leaves. They're just bent and curled in odd ways, which becomes more apparent in the last pic. Nothing is cut tho, or missing. It's all there.


I want the guardian to see a visual digital read out.
I bought the Z7 , came in today . My neighbor has your same set up (algae problem) river water I’m going to try it on his and my cloner which uses ro water.
I can’t get my nutrients off a ph of 5.5 , tried brought it up to 6.0 then up to 6.1 then to 6.0 again and 18 hours later it’s back on 5.5 ph !
Plants that small should use only 25% of your nutrients.
 
I appreciate it , like this one a lot better!
What did you think about the one I got from Grandpa Tokin.
Don’t read anything on the right till you till you figure out what you have on the left!
Yeah it’s interesting. I have a PH controller in place that I set/ lock in at 6 mainly because I’ve heard in hydro 6 is better for veg and then 5.8 for flower, but looks like everyone is moving more towards 5.8 for across the board. I just adjusted my PH down to 5.7 with an acceptable control range of 5.5 - 5.8 and will see if there’s any noticeable changes. On a side note, are you guys using any formulas to determine or dial in how/ when you know the plant is feeding at the ‘optimal’ level? I tend to leverage the thumb in the air approach - base it on looks, plant health, and nute burn, but is there a better approach I could leverage given the data from my monitors? Appreciate any insight.
 
I monitor my daily ph, tds(ec)ppm , water level water temp , ect . Look back and total the usage , the four plants I have growing now uses more than a gallon a day , the nutrients used 30 plus ppm a day cool watching these actions .
 
I want the guardian to see a visual digital read out.
I bought the Z7 , came in today . My neighbor has your same set up (algae problem) river water I’m going to try it on his and my cloner which uses ro water.
I can’t get my nutrients off a ph of 5.5 , tried brought it up to 6.0 then up to 6.1 then to 6.0 again and 18 hours later it’s back on 5.5 ph !
Plants that small should use only 25% of your nutrients.

I think I added too much in the beginning, and could have caused some issues there. That on top of my PH not being calibrated properly, started the yellowing. The Guardian is absolutely on my wishlist as well. I may be getting it sooner rather than later due to my PH equipment problem yesterday.

Yeah it’s interesting. I have a PH controller in place that I set/ lock in at 6 mainly because I’ve heard in hydro 6 is better for veg and then 5.8 for flower, but looks like everyone is moving more towards 5.8 for across the board. I just adjusted my PH down to 5.7 with an acceptable control range of 5.5 - 5.8 and will see if there’s any noticeable changes. On a side note, are you guys using any formulas to determine or dial in how/ when you know the plant is feeding at the ‘optimal’ level? I tend to leverage the thumb in the air approach - base it on looks, plant health, and nute burn, but is there a better approach I could leverage given the data from my monitors? Appreciate any insight.

Growca how's the PH system set up? I'd be interested in something like this. I'm not using any formulas or anything, but saved a pic of a post where someone gave some loose rules. If the PH raises, the plant is hungry and wants more nutes. Up around 50-100. If PH lowers the plant has too many nutes, thin the mix with plain water.

I'm finding 400 PPM is be a pretty standard/average number to shoot for. However my water is already at 286 (according to my PPM meter, which I recently found was off by 200 anyway) so I'm thinking I need to up my nute count. I'm scared to do that though, because I'm already at 600 (which technically would be 400 I guess? Idk if my meter is truly fucked or not.) I'm returning it tomorrow, so I won't have a way of measuring PPM anyway for a few days. I'm thinking I'm not going to worry about it too much, and just try and read the plant.
 
The ec pin is calibrated to 1500 ppm. When it showed higher the pin was dirty after measuring the nutrients. Clean it then soak it in the test solution overnight, then check it in the morning !
 
I'm updating a tad bit early today, so it's not quite 24 hours after the last update. I've discovered a hole in one of the leaves, which I suspect to be associated with the PH burn that happened 2 days ago. I don't have any signs of pests, and I did a neem treatment last week as preventative anyway.


Directly center of the image is a pretty tiny hole.


Roots are looking good. That really long root is curled up and around others, and in the solution they're free-moving.


This is a weird picture, honestly. It looks incredibly yellow, but in the tent with my own eyes it doesn't seem this yellow. And actually, it seems a darker green as compared to yesterday, so I think the half-res change to lower the PPMs and also to fix the uncalibrated PH meter issue worked.

What meters are you guys using to measure PPM and PH? I'm very disappointed with the PPM meter I have, and I'm refunding it tomorrow so I need to buy a new one.
 
The ec pin is calibrated to 1500 ppm. When it showed higher the pin was dirty after measuring the nutrients. Clean it then soak it in the test solution overnight, then check it in the morning !

Thanks for the tip West, I'll note it when the new meter comes in in a few days. I've already begun the refund process, and want something a little more expensive/reliable anyway.
 
I'm updating a tad bit early today, so it's not quite 24 hours after the last update. I've discovered a hole in one of the leaves, which I suspect to be associated with the PH burn that happened 2 days ago. I don't have any signs of pests, and I did a neem treatment last week as preventative anyway.


Directly center of the image is a pretty tiny hole.


Roots are looking good. That really long root is curled up and around others, and in the solution they're free-moving.


This is a weird picture, honestly. It looks incredibly yellow, but in the tent with my own eyes it doesn't seem this yellow. And actually, it seems a darker green as compared to yesterday, so I think the half-res change to lower the PPMs and also to fix the uncalibrated PH meter issue worked.

What meters are you guys using to measure PPM and PH? I'm very disappointed with the PPM meter I have, and I'm refunding it tomorrow so I need to buy a new one.
I have a couple pics of the ones I use in my journal from yesterday
 
I run two bluelab products:
-Guardian Connect: this measures EC,
PPM, PH, Water Temps
-Guardian PH Controller Connect: this measures water temp and PH, and has a peristaltic pump that will automatically dose the reservoir with EITHER a PH UP or Down formula. You can set the range of PH fluctuation you want to allow as well as high watermark and low watermark alarms to alert you if things are getting wonky.

In my case I never need PH UP, only down due to my water. Here’s how it looks from my phone/ app.
0908D1E6-9792-45AF-A4CD-8826EBD56652.png


In terms of going too hot on nutes, you’ll be able to determine that relatively easy just by looking at your plant because this will happen to the tips of your leaves. In the case of the photo below, two things are happening.
-1: nute burn (tips)
-2: air/ env is too hot (edges of leaves cupping)
173BF6CC-3B79-4146-A036-66E52013DFD2.jpeg


You’ll be all good man, don’t stress too much or be a helicopter parent to your plant :)
 
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