DWC & Soil: Verb's Purple Puncher Autos, Mars Hydro TS 1000

[bluter]

Looks like light damage. I would give her a couple of days to recover before increasing her dose.

ditto. maybe a bit of ph or nutrient trouble as well.

looks like you are running both flower and seedling in the same tent. run your lights 18 - 24 inches above the flowering canopy or move the seedlings to their own environment.

leave the seedlings at floor level if both are in the same tent. it would work a touch better if the flowering plants were shading the seedlings a bit. move the seedlings higher as they reach veg.

not sure how the dwc is gonna factor as everything grows at different rates. is everything auto and on the same light sched ?

 

[Verbalist]

ditto. maybe a bit of ph or nutrient trouble as well.

looks like you are running both flower and seedling in the same tent. run your lights 18 - 24 inches above the flowering canopy or move the seedlings to their own environment.

leave the seedlings at floor level if both are in the same tent. it would work a touch better if the flowering plants were shading the seedlings a bit. move the seedlings higher as they reach veg.

not sure how the dwc is gonna factor as everything grows at different rates. is everything auto and on the same light sched ?

Yup heat/light stress doesn’t usually cause those brown and yellowish stains and overall pale looking seedling.
I’ll watch her closely for couple days now and see if theres any improvement, since they having more favorable environments.

And yes Im having my seedlings and clones flowering inside same tent Lol this sounds mad, but I just take the clones out and put them inside a cabinet for a night (12hrs) then moving back to the tent at the morning. Gotta keep doing this for next ~3 weeks before theyre ready to harvest.
The tent is running 20/4 lights for now and clones only spendin 11-12h/day there.

 

[Verbalist]

9/25 | Day 7 | Week 1

First week -mark.
Not much to say. Theyve been slowly doing their seedling things. Blackberry Kushes have had somewhat faster growth.
And Critical 2.0 XL autos… Tried to research for a bit if this strain is more prone to Potassium deficiency somehow, but didn’t find a thing. Probably because doesn’t make that much sense at this stage of growth (seedling).
Whys that?
As discussed before DWC Critical had most likely multiple factors (heat/light stress, pH fluctuations etc) which caused her look. But did more researching on Potassium deficiency and those symptoms match pretty much with both Criticals (DWC and coco)… The Critical in coco has slightly yellowish serrated leaves and the edges are slowly turning into brown/burnt. In the same way as Critical in DWC does right now. Dwc criticals first three fingeres were better but they also started to get drier from the edges and look yellowish and eventually burn/turn into brown.
pH fluctuations usually causes same kind of issues, but IMO wouldn’t blame the pH, because there haven’t been that much yo-yoing and for the coco Critical I’ve been misting only 5.8-6pH water wheres Root Booster and 0.25ml/l GHE’s micro5-0-1.

So a quick look at the Potassium deficiency:

And watching this chart Potassium should be absorbed between ~5.7-6.1 pH..

Totally no idea what could cause these symptoms if plants not having a Potassium deficieny..? Because after moved them inside the tent they’ve had almost a perfect environments:
- Temp: 22-24C (71-75F)
- Humidity: 45-55% RH
- Proper air circulation & intake fan takes fresh air from out side
- correct lamp distance 40-50cm

So here theyre on day 7 (DWC Criticals 11th day)

Critical 2.0 XL auto (coco)
See how the leaves are slightly yellowish and those edges starting to get crispy..
Been misting the coco with 5.8pH water mixed with GHE’s Root Booster

Critical 2.0 XL auto (DWC)
She slowly recorvering from the heat stress but by watching the foliage you can clearly tell everything isn’t okey. Newest growth tip already looks a bit yellowish also. And cotyledons starting to yellow a bit..
So did a reservoir change today just to raise EC with .1
(One inch below the net cup is actually pretty much just 10L which makes calculating nutrients easier)
New patch:
- 150PPM Cal/Mag
- 0.5ml/l GHE TriPart Micro5-0-1 (5ml total which is half from recommended)
- 0.3ml/l GHE TriPart Gro (1/3 from recommended dosage)
- 0.25ml/l GHE TriPart Bloom (~1/4 from recommended)
- 4g/10L Mineral Magic AKA Silicate
- 5ml Root Booster

- EC: 0.7
- pH: after mixing everything was 6.7 and lowered it down to 5.8

Blackberry Kush auto (coco)
She will be transplanted into the final container later tonight.
Been misting it with 5.8-6pH water wheres Root Booter and 1/3 dose of Micro. And looks like she has no problem at all since been using same water to mist this one and Critical..

Blackberry Kush auto (soil)
She have had most healthiest looking growth. And so far the fastest one from the same day emerged seedlings.

This was the first week, hope the next one is better.
Also if @West Hippie @FelipeBlu @StoneOtter @bluter or @Rexer have a 2 cents to throw in or tell your judgements. I’d appreciate that since this rounds seedling stage seems to be a struggle.

 

[StoneOtter]

Looking great Verbalist! I believe that critical will come around too. One day soon you'll wake up and say Wow today's the day she caught some traction!

 

[Buds Buddy]

That’s all I use is rockwool , PW had got me started flushing seedlings that go astray.

Sure miss him being around. Haven't been able to find him anywhere.

 

[Buds Buddy]

Hey @StoneOtter @Rexer @West Hippie
Decided to sleep overnight first and see if theres any improvement one way or another..

Judging by current look I started to wonder is that heat/light stress?
Temps are between 26-28C (78-82F) and yeah 82F might be a bit too hot.. BB Kushes seem to like it, but IMO dwc Critical edges of the leaves are tacoin’ or ”canoeing” up. That could explain crispy upwards poiting leaves, right?
DWC Critical’s cotyledons starting to turn into light green/lime as well. Wondering if she starts to needs N or nutes overall?

And this one basicly looks like same as u would google ”cannabis seedling heat stress”…

If taking care of the heat stress that probs wont solve those yellow/brown spots tho.

100w LED panel is 20cm above the plants.. thats pretty close but the LED has a cooler/radiator on the back so the glass/reflector of the led doesn’t heat up barely at all.

Also 2nd Critical in coco has been idling like this over 24hrs now. Could this be a sign of the heat stress as well?
Serrated leaves are just poiting upwards and she absolutely does nothing. Obv u would say here just wait and let her settle down, but she looks like she totally stopped living.

This must been hardest seedlig stage Ive ever had. And thats probs why Ive no clue what to do with them, because haven’t experienced anything similar before.

From what I've read on 420 when the leaves point upward it's the 1st sign of being maxed out on light & at the point of almost too much light. It says the leaves should almost being laying out flat for the best photosynthesis. That article is by Nebula Haze.
I'm seeing Hungry Plants that are also lacking in Calcium. I would Up your nutes & Cal Mag just a little. Are you using any Z7 or Hydroguard ?
I think Critical 2.0 may just be one of those small growing strains. That one I grew was only like 1/3rd the size of all my other plants. Didn't care for it as far as yield... but the smoke was good if I remember right. Been a while.

 

[Rexer]

I would think at 1 week of age and 150PPM worth of Cal mag you'd ok.

Also, with the last bump you just just gave, it's too soon for another bump. But that's me. Buds may be right, but I'd wait to see how it takes to the last bump. Or better yet, more opinions!

Potassium deficiency in veg is rare. I asked at start of my current grow.

Aim for a tent temp of around 23-25C

Also, your learning and doing great, don't be hard on yourself! Many have had trouble at starting seedlings and lost them. Even more have troubles with DWC. The goal here is for you to learn and make it to harvest with as nice a plant as you can. Next run, aim for better healthier plant, etc.

Also, at this point the chart should start guiding you more.

 

[Buds Buddy]

I would think at 1 week of age and 150PPM worth of Cal mag you'd ok.

Also, with the last bump you just just gave, it's too soon for another bump. But that's me. Buds may be right, but I'd wait to see how it takes to the last bump. Or better yet, more opinions!

Potassium deficiency in veg is rare. I asked at start of my current grow.

Aim for a tent temp of around 23-25C

Also, your learning and doing great, don't be hard on yourself! Many have had trouble at starting seedlings and lost them. Even more have troubles with DWC. The goal here is for you to learn and make it to harvest with as nice a plant as you can. Next run, aim for better healthier plant, etc.

Also, at this point the chart should start guiding you more.

Yes, if he just bumped up the Cal Mag he should wait to see the results on the new growth. Old growth wont clear up. As long as new growth doesn't have it you should be fine.
Sounds like you guys feed kind of light. My Week 1 Veg nutes are at 589 ppm. However, I only watered the 1st 3 weeks of growth with no nutes. I'm in soil though so I can do that. Maybe the soil nutes were around 150 ppm.... don't know. I tried DWC, but didn't like it. RDWC might be OK though. I just don't have the time to micro manage my grows so I stick to soil.
The way I see it is, the very tips of the leaves should be slightly burnt. If I see slightly yellow tips & a nice green on the leaves I consider that to be as close to perfect as possible. They are getting the maximum amount of nutes they can handle at that point. (My opinion only of course).

 

[Verbalist]

Looking great Verbalist! I believe that critical will come around too. One day soon you'll wake up and say Wow today's the day she caught some traction!

Love the way u take it chill no matter what! I need to practice that.

From what I've read on 420 when the leaves point upward it's the 1st sign of being maxed out on light & at the point of almost too much light. It says the leaves should almost being laying out flat for the best photosynthesis. That article is by Nebula Haze.
I'm seeing Hungry Plants that are also lacking in Calcium. I would Up your nutes & Cal Mag just a little. Are you using any Z7 or Hydroguard ?
I think Critical 2.0 may just be one of those small growing strains. That one I grew was only like 1/3rd the size of all my other plants. Didn't care for it as far as yield... but the smoke was good if I remember right. Been a while.

True that it had some sort of heat/light stress, but I guess recovering from it now. Dont have any hydroguard but res temp stays steady 21-22C and roots looks happy. Im having silica mixed in tho.
And yes at least feels like they having sooo slow start, but what Ive read they can produce massive yields using hydro. And strain actual name is Critical 2.0 XL auto. Dunno where the XL comes from since first it was Critical 2.0

I would think at 1 week of age and 150PPM worth of Cal mag you'd ok.

Also, with the last bump you just just gave, it's too soon for another bump. But that's me. Buds may be right, but I'd wait to see how it takes to the last bump. Or better yet, more opinions!

Potassium deficiency in veg is rare. I asked at start of my current grow.

Aim for a tent temp of around 23-25C

Also, your learning and doing great, don't be hard on yourself! Many have had trouble at starting seedlings and lost them. Even more have troubles with DWC. The goal here is for you to learn and make it to harvest with as nice a plant as you can. Next run, aim for better healthier plant, etc.

Also, at this point the chart should start guiding you more.

BioBizz Cal/Mag goes now 0.45ml/l (theres 10L in my res so total 4.5ml)
GHE’s AKA now days Terra Aquatica TriPart base nutes are easy to mix for your needs. So tried to bump up a bit amount of N and K, looks like plant having enough Phosphorus (slightly purplish/dark stems..)

And temps are under the control now. Max 25C, but stays pretty much between of 22-24C.

And yes learning whole lot new things with this DWC thing, true that. Trying not to be too hard for myself, but getting a lil vexed because I keep comparing to my prev plants at the same age.
And as you mentioned above ”one week old plant” ye she sounds younger that way but shes actually 11 days - 3 days to hit the two weeks mark. And there should have been a lot more growth in less than two weeks IMO. And then the roots… Hopefully she just has to grow some root mass before she start to take spurts above the ground.

Wanted to share these two older grows, which Ive used to compare to the current plant. In both pics the plants are 11 days old since they emerged.

My latest/prev NL grow day 11:

~2 years ago I think this were NL x Haze and day 11 (idk these were huuuuge at this stage)

The way I see it is, the very tips of the leaves should be slightly burnt. If I see slightly yellow tips & a nice green on the leaves I consider that to be as close to perfect as possible.

I see u there. But looks like potassium deficiency at some stages are often mistaken to some kind of excess or toxicity. But gotta belive in @Rexer that this young plant should not have Potassium defiences.. I would say 100% Cal/mag deficiency but on the edges of the leaves dont usually get burnt/brown.

 

[StoneOtter]

Love the way u take it chill no matter what!

I'm an optimist right to the point of when I'm not .

 

[Rexer]

Hey Buds, before you read all this, this is just from a different perspective and to further discussion. Not trying to do anything other then voice how I see it differently on a few points (I think it may be a soil vs hydro?).
And if I'm wrong, I hope some of the other more experienced growers like yourself, who are following chime in. I like being shown where I'm wrong- it's about learning.

Yes, if he just bumped up the Cal Mag he should wait to see the results on the new growth. Old growth wont clear up. As long as new growth doesn't have it you should be fine.

That was my only concern to be honest. His had a rough start. You have grown more plants then me- and would spot a deficiency better...I just wasn't sure if you saw that he posted that he just did a bump?

Sounds like you guys feed kind of light.

Im going to disagree with you Buds. There's no disrespect meant, you grow some beautiful plants

Nope I don't feed light. only what the plant asks for. I ride mine as high as it will tolerate. Any higher and I experience nute burn. My biggest auto to date finished at roughly 850-900 PPM. 243g dried and cured.

It's not about feeding heavy or light- it's about feeding what the plant needs/wants at a given stage and can tolerate.

My Week 1 Veg nutes are at 589 ppm.

Is that using the GH Trio? I don't remember what you were using.

However, I only watered the 1st 3 weeks of growth with no nutes. I'm in soil though so I can do that. Maybe the soil nutes were around 150 ppm.... don't know. I tried DWC, but didn't like it. RDWC might be OK though. I just don't have the time to micro manage my grows so I stick to soil.

if you ever decide to jump back in, I'd give flood and drain a try. Cheap to setup and is a much better entry into hydro. But if you want to see hydro flourish without micro management, take a swing by bluter and FelipeBlu journals. Hempy - its on my bucket list. And it hits every spot bang on that you didn't like about hydro.

The way I see it is, the very tips of the leaves should be slightly burnt. If I see slightly yellow tips & a nice green on the leaves I consider that to be as close to perfect as possible.

In soil maybe? I dunno. But I see burnt tips in hydro differently. I see it as two mistakes. First mistake, too high a solution is added. Second mistake is the rise in EC/PPM telling you the plant is leaching (think of that as choking on food that's too big for it to swallow) and ignoring or not catching it.


While it's leaching the nutes, it's not eating, and that's lost growth time. To me, an auto grower, that's lost time that's valuable and takes away from harvest yield.

There can be other reasons for burnt tips (too cold reservoir for example), but more often then not it's nute burn. I try to catch it quickly, before it hits the leaves. That doesn't mean it doesn't happen, I'm no master grower.

They are getting the maximum amount of nutes they can handle at that point. (My opinion only of course).

When that happens, it's a beautiful thing. And should be accompanied by a steady ph, steady EC/PPM and a drop in reservoir volume.

And yes learning whole lot new things with this DWC thing, true that. Trying not to be too hard for myself, but getting a lil vexed because I keep comparing to my prev plants at the same

Unless your comparing dwc to dwc and plants of same health, i don't see the point. Different mediums, different health = different results.

But gotta belive in @Rexer that this young plant should not have Potassium defiences.. I would say 100% Cal/mag deficiency but on the edges of the leaves dont usually get burnt/brown.

All I can say is if you clicked on the link, you'd see whom gave that advice to me in my grow. I'd take his advice any day. And I did.

Your doing fine. Patience grasshopper

 

[FelipeBlu]

The fact that the BK (soil) looks pretty good would seem to indicate that the environment probably isn’t the issue. So let’s turn to nutrition. I have a couple of questions about your inputs, if I may, since I can’t find labels with this information.

1. What is the N% in the BioBizz CalMag? And the Ca and Mg percentages too.
2. Does the Mineral Magic silica have any K?

Without that information, the NPK is already 56-7-30. If the silica doesn’t contain K, it would appear that there isn’t enough in your mix. And if the CalMag has any N, that’s going to throw off the N:K ratio even more. This ratio is pretty important, and you should always have at least as much K as N. This could indeed be K def, even this early.

Also, if you have 100ppm tap water, you may not need very much CalMag. Another 150ppm of CalMag in your mix could interfere with K uptake as well.

And finally, in what order do you mix your inputs?

 

[Buds Buddy]

Hey Buds, before you read all this, this is just from a different perspective and to further discussion. Not trying to do anything other then voice how I see it differently on a few points (I think it may be a soil vs hydro?).
And if I'm wrong, I hope some of the other more experienced growers like yourself, who are following chime in. I like being shown where I'm wrong- it's about learning.




That was my only concern to be honest. His had a rough start. You have grown more plants then me- and would spot a deficiency better...I just wasn't sure if you saw that he posted that he just did a bump?

Im going to disagree with you Buds. There's no disrespect meant, you grow some beautiful plants

Nope I don't feed light. only what the plant asks for. I ride mine as high as it will tolerate. Any higher and I experience nute burn. My biggest auto to date finished at roughly 850-900 PPM. 243g dried and cured.

It's not about feeding heavy or light- it's about feeding what the plant needs/wants at a given stage and can tolerate.

Is that using the GH Trio? I don't remember what you were using.

if you ever decide to jump back in, I'd give flood and drain a try. Cheap to setup and is a much better entry into hydro. But if you want to see hydro flourish without micro management, take a swing by bluter and FelipeBlu journals. Hempy - its on my bucket list. And it hits every spot bang on that you didn't like about hydro.

In soil maybe? I dunno. But I see burnt tips in hydro differently. I see it as two mistakes. First mistake, too high a solution is added. Second mistake is the rise in EC/PPM telling you the plant is leaching (think of that as choking on food that's too big for it to swallow) and ignoring or not catching it.


While it's leaching the nutes, it's not eating, and that's lost growth time. To me, an auto grower, that's lost time that's valuable and takes away from harvest yield.

There can be other reasons for burnt tips (too cold reservoir for example), but more often then not it's nute burn. I try to catch it quickly, before it hits the leaves. That doesn't mean it doesn't happen, I'm no master grower.


When that happens, it's a beautiful thing. And should be accompanied by a steady ph, steady EC/PPM and a drop in reservoir volume.



Unless your comparing dwc to dwc and plants of same health, i don't see the point. Different mediums, different health = different results.

All I can say is if you clicked on the link, you'd see whom gave that advice to me in my grow. I'd take his advice any day. And I did.

Your doing fine. Patience grasshopper

No, I used Mega Crop, Cal Mag & Hydroguard when I did my DWC grow. Haven't ever tried FF nutes. Have tried several others & currently using Prescription Blend.
Yeah, you are probably right about burnt tips with DWC. Things can go south way too fast in Hydro. Not enough time to correct issues like with soil.
Also, the fact that they are Auto's is another thing I wasn't considering.... as I don't grow Auto's any more.
Yeah, I guess this thread is kind of out of my league grow method wise.
Don't like Auto's or Hydro so I'm in the wrong place.... lol.
I'll stick to my soil grows & try to master them the best I can.
I like Felipe's last post. Now that sounds 100% logical to me.
I've gone as high as 1200 ppm with my nutes in soil; but usually keep it closer to 800 - 900 during flower. The last 2 weeks I like to max things out though.

 

[Rexer]

No, I used Mega Crop, Cal Mag & Hydroguard when I did my DWC grow. Haven't ever tried FF nutes. Have tried several others & currently using Prescription Blend.
Yeah, you are probably right about burnt tips with DWC. Things can go south way too fast in Hydro. Not enough time to correct issues like with soil.
Also, the fact that they are Auto's is another thing I wasn't considering.... as I don't grow Auto's any more.
Yeah, I guess this thread is kind of out of my league grow method wise.
Don't like Auto's or Hydro so I'm in the wrong place.... lol.
I'll stick to my soil grows & try to master them the best I can.

No brother, don't take my comment as anything other then furthering a discussion. Keep bringing that wonderful to journals. Venture into all types!

I like Felipe's last post. Now that sounds 100% logical to me.

Yup- he is usually spot on with his stuff. Did you see his monster hempy??

I've gone as high as 1200 ppm with my nutes in soil; but usually keep it closer to 800 - 900 during flower. The last 2 weeks I like to max things out though.

You sir have grown some real beauties and are a wonderful person who's contributed a lot on here.

 

[Verbalist]

Hi @FelipeBlu and thank you very much for your input! I’ll try to explain and answear as detailed as I can, so you could get the better picture whatsupp.

1. What is the N% in the BioBizz CalMag? And the Ca and Mg percentages too.
2. Does the Mineral Magic silica have any K?

1. I’m using Bio’s Cal/Mag because it only contains Calcium and Magnesium, no Nitrogen at all. (Thats at least what I read and label either doesn’t mention anything about N) Ca & Mg-% are: CaO:4.2% MgO: 1.7%
2. T.A’s Silicate doesn’t contain any K. Label says: 84% Silicates (Carbonates 16%), Iron(Fe): 2.4%, Magnesium: 1.8% and Sulfur(S): 0.15%

Without that information, the NPK is already 56-7-30. If the silica doesn’t contain K, it would appear that there isn’t enough in your mix. And if the CalMag has any N, that’s going to throw off the N:K ratio even more. This ratio is pretty important, and you should always have at least as much K as N. This could indeed be K def, even this early.

Yes NPK ratios being a bit off from the track right now (because for now Ive mostly used only Micro and grow) So the res mix contains a lot more N than K and very low amounts of P.
And GHE/Terra Aquatica TriPart-serie is known better as old name GHE Flora-series (FloraGro, FloraBloom & FloraMicro)

GHE/T.A TriPart NPK:
FloraMicro (soft water): 5-0-1 and also contains Boron, Fe, Cu & Ca of low amounts
~ Res has 0.75ml/l of Micro (7.5ml total)

FloraGro 3-1-6
~ Grow dosage in res is 0.5ml/l (5ml total)

FloraBloom 0-5-4
~ Bloom dosage in res is about 0.25ml/l (~2.5ml total)

At this stage of the growth (between first roots & first leaves-mark) if following GHE TriPart Feeding chart the recommended dosage for hydro would be 1ml/l of each three. (see chart below). As mentioned above current dosages are like 1/2 or 1/3 strength from recommended. Micro is the only one which is almost running with the recommended dose. So watching NPK’s and doses from above its pretty easy to tell theres somewhat more N than K or P.
If I would mix for example 0.75ml/l (2/3 from recommended) each three of them, that would give me a more balanced ratio for N&K and a bit less P.

Or mixing up a Nitrogen & Potassium-focused mix for example 1ml/l Micro and 1.2ml/l Grow would give me a more N&K balance. Seedling looks like it has enough or maybe even a little excess Phosphorus (dark/purple stems on first three fingers and some of the other symptoms could match as well…meh these all excess and deficiencis appears to have so much same kind of symptoms)

…But I guess this shouldn’t be the case, so excess Phosphorus can be left outside.
Then conclusions about Ca or Mg defiency: it could have been Cal/mg deficiency, which might be getting better since it doesn’t really seem to appear on newest growth. But the growth is still very slow/stunted. Stalk being very thin and she looks like she couldn’t even carry heavier leaves or produce thicker internodes.

And finally, in what order do you mix your inputs?

First I take separate 1L bowl where I place handwarm water and mix in the Silicate, then having 10L bucket where I mix up rest of them. And in this order:
1st - Cal/Mag
2nd - I pour in Silicate from separate bowl
3rd - TriPart’s (Grow,micro&bloom)
4th - at this point if theres room for 0.1 EC rise then I mix in 3ml/l Root Booster. But if EC already high then I just skip that.
5th - pH down supplement. After mixing up everything before pH down, pHs usually something between 6.4-6.8 and then lowering it down to 5.8, sometimes it drops to 5.7 or even 5.6 but not adding pH up, because at this low EC level the pH will eventually slowly rise.
..In my understanding this is the order I should mix them. Idk if it matters if I first mix in Silicate or always Cal/Mag first.


Then the heat/light stress. I would say it had heat stress for sure and most symptoms on foliage refers to it. But the environment temps are nearly perfect now, so that shouldn’t be a problem anymore.

So then final conclusion:
A) Cal/Mag deficiency(?) - But most of my nutes includes Calcium (silicate, micro and then Cal/Mag so should have plenty of Ca & Mg sources)

B) Potassium deficiency(?) - this is the most reasonable that I came up with. See picture below and most of the symptoms refers for the lack of Potassium.
~ yellow color from the tips, brown spots, edges turning into brown/crispy/burnt
~ Weakening of the plant
~ slowing down development

Also pH being adjusted twice per day to 5.7 or 5.8 (in ~12hrs it usually climbs up to 6.0-6.3) So in that range NPK’s and micros (Ca/Mg/Fe/Cu etc.) should be absorbed.

Compared to the root mass plant being way too small.. theres punch of happy white roots comming thru the net cup and longest ones are like 6-7inches. If I would only look at the root mass I would guess the plants age between 2-3 weeks.

What would u suggest me to do? Should I slowly start upping the nutes or just make a new patch (following the char) or just mix up Micro & Grow to get balanced N&K ratio?

As you mentioned before that N and K needs be in balance, we can take another example: Critical 2.0 in coco Ive been misting it with Root Booster and Micro so the coco one doesn’t either have N & K in balance.. It only has N availabe pretty much. And her serrated leaves starting to show same kind of symptons (leaves starting to yellow and edges getting brown)

E: and update how she looks today.
Serrated leaves are completely lost, but thats not a big deal. See those leaves as well (IMO theres more Ca deficiency shown) and then first three fingers…Their tips/edges also got even worse. And comparing those leaves to the Potassium deficiency, I only found it match-match.
Newest growth looks somewhat healthy, except that brownish newest tip, but it might turn into green as the first actual developing leaves did.
Still kinda ruff look and leaves curling down a bit.

E2: Also during the night EC had dropped 0.1, pH had risen from 5.8 to 6.1 water level pretty much still static, hard to say. But I guess thats good at this point(?) older age if it would stayed static water, pH risen and EC dropped then I’ve should lower EC.

 

[Verbalist]

Yeah, I guess this thread is kind of out of my league grow method wise.
Don't like Auto's or Hydro so I'm in the wrong place.... lol.
I'll stick to my soil grows & try to master them the best I can.
I like Felipe's last post. Now that sounds 100% logical to me.

As Rexer mentioned community needs your kind of persons @Buds Buddy !. Would love to hear your tips even if they focus on soil cultivation experiences, because you truly know how to grow successful weed bro!

All I can say is if you clicked on the link, you'd see whom gave that advice to me in my grow. I'd take his advice any day. And I did.

Indeed read the whole thing and that makes sense, no doubt. Thats why Im being so confused right now lol. Because @FelipeBlu confirmed my hunch about K deficiency even more.

 

[FelipeBlu]

Good day Verbalist!

After my coffee, I’ll fire up the spreadsheet and enter your new data so I can provide some guidance. We will sort this out!

 

[Verbalist]

Good day Verbalist!

After my coffee, I’ll fire up the spreadsheet and enter your new data so I can provide some guidance. We will sort this out!

Absolutely love u!
Think Ive done some research and the clear up for that would be more than welcome. just shoot me here or a PM if you need more details

 

[FelipeBlu]

Is this the Micro? From what I can see, it also appears to contain Ca and Mg. Would it be possible for you to provide a photo of the labels? It is difficult to find an image of the entire guaranteed analysis.

 

[Verbalist]

Is this the Micro? From what I can see, it also appears to contain Ca and Mg. Would it be possible for you to provide a photo of the labels? It is difficult to find an image of the entire guaranteed analysis.

Yes thats the same bottle. *for soft water* and yeah mentioned above that it also contains Ca Mg Cu Fe etc.
Ill post a pic of the label soon.

Heres pics of the current ”root mass” if it gives any guidance:

Net cup is 6" wide and 4" height