High Brix

Hey Doc Is there a way i could email you about buying a kit ? I'm a big fan of your journals but i don't post very often, just read and learn.
 
I think I just pooped myself !!!! LOL Holy freaking super duper frosty high brix nugs Doc!!! Amazing!! I saw a few posts above that you were looking into fish hydroslate...the brand bonide has one that's a 2-4-0 that is very highly acidic and contains phosphoric acid..figured I would suggest it since its been giving me some pretty decent results so far, just stinks like all hell.. anyways doc truly amazing!
 
I think I just pooped myself !!!! LOL Holy freaking super duper frosty high brix nugs Doc!!! Amazing!! I saw a few posts above that you were looking into fish hydroslate...the brand bonide has one that's a 2-4-0 that is very highly acidic and contains phosphoric acid..figured I would suggest it since its been giving me some pretty decent results so far, just stinks like all hell.. anyways doc truly amazing!

Thanks Ice!

I have a product formulated by the lab and I'm going to stick with it, as it's designed for high brix growing and seed crops. I'm only using it twice in bloom so far.

But fishy ferts are definitely the way to go!
 
Doc,

question on pot size;

I normally use 5 gal buckets, but am going to go with 7 gal as per your advice.

The question is: is a taller thin pot better or shorter and wider for the roots?

I was thinking of making a cylinder out of wire fence, lining the inside of it with landscape fabric, and placing it in a 5 gal bucket with drain. Sort of a home made air pot. Problem is to make it 7 gal, it would need to be 24 inches high.

Also, I am cooking a bale of soil now in 2 37gal containers, and will use only one for this grow. If the 37 gal bin fits in the grow room, can I grow 3 or 4 plants right in the same tub? Advantages or disadvantages?

one more thing. I put the ingredients from the bottom of my tea bucket on top of the soil after I water. It seems to form a crust on top of the soil when it drys in a day or two.

Does a crusty top soil prevent air from getting to the soil?
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Doc,

question on pot size;

I normally use 5 gal buckets, but am going to go with 7 gal as per your advice.

The question is: is a taller thin pot better or shorter and wider for the roots?

I was thinking of making a cylinder out of wire fence, lining the inside of it with landscape fabric, and placing it in a 5 gal bucket with drain. Sort of a home made air pot. Problem is to make it 7 gal, it would need to be 24 inches high.

Also, I am cooking a bale of soil now in 2 37gal containers, and will use only one for this grow. If the 37 gal bin fits in the grow room, can I grow 3 or 4 plants right in the same tub? Advantages or disadvantages?

one more thing. I put the ingredients from the bottom of my tea bucket on top of the soil after I water. It seems to form a crust on top of the soil when it drys in a day or two.

Does a crusty top soil prevent air from getting to the soil?

Great questions bro!

Plants tend to mimic canopy shape dependent on root shape. Tall, thin pots will give tall thin plants. Short, wide pots=short, wide plants, all other things being equal. The problem will a very tall pot is that it's harder for air to get to the roots. An air pot would largely mitigate this problem.

Growing in one, large container. Well, it might just be the best thing you could do! I haven't done it yet, but I'm thinking of growing in horse troughs....the molded plastic kind that hold a couple hundred gallons. Put them on castors and roll them in and out of the flower room. Keep the same soil, etc.

My tea always did that to my pots as well. I just scratched the surface by hand every now and then and never had a problem.
 
I've been so busy I haven't taken pics in a long time!

Here's the latest:

I'm experimenting with a High Brix soil drench that has ammoniacal nitrogen as opposed to nitrate. It also has phosphorus and fishy ferts.

This product is formulated for seed crops, IE soybeans, forage, oats, etc. The ammoniacal nitrogen stimulates reproductive growth, whereas most nitrates (calcium nitrate excepted) stimulate vegetative growth. Essentially, using this product puts the soil slightly out of balance for a week or two, but the results might be worth it. I'm seeing more frosting earlier than ever before.

I'm doing this because I'm trying to find out if our beloved plants like to be grown like a vegetable or like a seed crop....or something in between. Still high brix, still amazing product.....I'm just striving for the last 5%, trying to coax a bit more flavor, a bit more bag appeal.....whatever I can do to improve.

These plants are 18 days into bloom.

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18 days and COVERED in frost.
Looks like you're on to something with the ammoniacal nitrogen, phosphorus, and fishy ferts drench.
You're a true bud Doctor no doubt.

incredible skills Doc.
:thumb:
 
Those are really nice Doc!!! Are you switching from the one drench (veg) to the other one (reproductive) along with your cycle?

I'm using the "new" drench twice during the entire grow cycle. I don't exactly when to use it yet...that's part of the learning process.

I used this drench for the transition period and then I'll use it once more about mid-bloom. You'll see the results unfold here, real time.
 
Looking good Doc.. I can't wait till the day I finally get to grow.. When the time comes if it is alright with you I would like your advice on the products for my environment. The end of the year cant come fast enough.. I too want to grow a TGA Strain in High Brix... Honestly all I plan to grow is TGA.. Big fan of Sub.. matter of fact that is how I found your journals.. I started reading when you were in super soil and well I have been following since... I have a lot of plans for documentation of my grows.. A journal here and video documentation somewhere else all featuring your high brix.. I really think you could be revolutionizing growing and how lucky we are to have you documenting it here on 420Mag...
 
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