COGrows 400W HPS - Soil - Blue Plant Nutrients

[Blue Planet Nutrients]

what exactly are you talking about. I can't see anything in that pic. got anything more detailed?

 

[COgrow]

Yeah, I didn't notice that. Here ya go. Yellowing of the new growth.

Purple stem and veins?

And some more random pictures. My friend is here with a much nice camera than mine

 

[chode420]

Cal mag add some as soon as possible

 

[Blue Planet Nutrients]

What type of meter are you using to check the ph with and do you calibrate it often? I know that I have been talking ph into the ground. The 3 part is a 100% complete nutrient system with everythibg in the correct amounts. That is why I keep preaching ph because it looks like a slight iron or other micronute ussue. That is caused by too high of a ph because there are more than sufficient amounts of all micro nutes in the 3 part. Also, has this been happening before and has the new growth been growing out of it and getting a darker green?

 

[goofyfoot]

If you have time look in to foliar/leaf feeding. Exspesialy were the micro nuit`s are concerend. If there is any dought, I always cut mix to only 50% of what instructions say and use some of this cut again. So 1-1/2 gal. at 50% and take the 1/2 gal. and cut it to one gal. This is for mist bottle and even though dullute with misting leaves it goes right into plant so results happen in hours instead of days while flushing roots. Also lessens chance of build up because amount of nuit`s is lower and never get to acummulate in soil. There getting less more freguantly, so if you drip/feed ,I just give each plant 4oz. liquid 4x a day. Increaseing to 6 times daily as plant goes crazy in veg and then backing off to 4 again after start of flower. Misting plants every chance I get. MIST not soak till saging!! You can still get out of control and each plant dictates how much it will use for it`s needs at that time!! Its trial and controlled error! The lesser amounts or nuit`s lets you increase at a pace the plant can use all of them instead of a acumullation in the soil that plant draws off of. This acumullation is the cause of the biggest problems most face. If you have the time to apply to two of same plants. One your way and one this way. See which one is easyer to maintain and is heathier. Then see which has the bigger issues that accure with all plants, or that dont happen due to controlled nuit`s instead of what the bottle said to mix. Every plant acts different to lighting & watts, CO2 and other variables that have to evolve so there is no real PPM for this dillution or constant ratio. I would rather have to grow one more plant to make up for the possable 1/2 oz. lose in yeild. And have a trouble free/no headache 75-85 day grow of heathy and delicious nuggets, maybe 1/2 gram smaller then somebodys else`s nuggets. They burn cleaner and taste better and not having any questions of stess over issues that have been removed!!

 

[DEAN420]

if you've started to use RO water, you need to add cal-mag

 

[COgrow]

What type of meter are you using to check the ph with and do you calibrate it often? I know that I have been talking ph into the ground. The 3 part is a 100% complete nutrient system with everythibg in the correct amounts. That is why I keep preaching ph because it looks like a slight iron or other micronute ussue. That is caused by too high of a ph because there are more than sufficient amounts of all micro nutes in the 3 part. Also, has this been happening before and has the new growth been growing out of it and getting a darker green?

Hanna Checker, calibrated before each use.

But yeah, I know when I come and ask a question like "what is wrong with this" that it is most definitely a pH issue, but I want opinions on exactly what deficiency it is so I know what to look for in the future. It's hard to reference images when trying to figure out what's wrong your plant. But anyway, this is the first time it has been like this. The newest growth is always a lighter color of green and then darkens up, but it was never this light.

And to be honest, I haven't even adjusted my pH in a week. I've just been putting in RO water with crazy growth schedule of nutrients. Since I've done this my plants have: perked up, lost the twist, and stopped clawing on the tips. But also, have showed other minor deficiencies like the yellowing.

So, Corey, What is your stance on adding cal-mag? I know it's common for people using RO water to add cal-mag to each and every gallon of water they put in...

If you have time look in to foliar/leaf feeding. Exspesialy were the micro nuit`s are concerend. If there is any dought, I always cut mix to only 50% of what instructions say and use some of this cut again. So 1-1/2 gal. at 50% and take the 1/2 gal. and cut it to one gal. This is for mist bottle and even though dullute with misting leaves it goes right into plant so results happen in hours instead of days while flushing roots. Also lessens chance of build up because amount of nuit`s is lower and never get to acummulate in soil. There getting less more freguantly, so if you drip/feed ,I just give each plant 4oz. liquid 4x a day. Increaseing to 6 times daily as plant goes crazy in veg and then backing off to 4 again after start of flower. Misting plants every chance I get. MIST not soak till saging!! You can still get out of control and each plant dictates how much it will use for it`s needs at that time!! Its trial and controlled error! The lesser amounts or nuit`s lets you increase at a pace the plant can use all of them instead of a acumullation in the soil that plant draws off of. This acumullation is the cause of the biggest problems most face. If you have the time to apply to two of same plants. One your way and one this way. See which one is easyer to maintain and is heathier. Then see which has the bigger issues that accure with all plants, or that dont happen due to controlled nuit`s instead of what the bottle said to mix. Every plant acts different to lighting & watts, CO2 and other variables that have to evolve so there is no real PPM for this dillution or constant ratio. I would rather have to grow one more plant to make up for the possable 1/2 oz. lose in yeild. And have a trouble free/no headache 75-85 day grow of heathy and delicious nuggets, maybe 1/2 gram smaller then somebodys else`s nuggets. They burn cleaner and taste better and not having any questions of stess over issues that have been removed!!

Thanks man, I've been debating whether or not I want to get into spraying them. I just started flowering, isn't it recommended to stop misting 2 weeks in? If that's wrong then I'll definitely go back up to walmart and get this nice plant mister for a dollar.

if you've started to use RO water, you need to add cal-mag

Thanks for the help man, greatly appreciate the second opinion to what chode said.

When the hydro shop owner told me to stop using tap because it has chloramine, I also asked whether or not he recommended using calmag and he said not to worry about that or about pH when growing in soil. I almost wish I just would have bought it. Any idea why he would have said this?

Anyway, they're sleeping now and will be up in 8 hours and 20 minutes for their first watering of the Transition formula as well as a few ml of the liquid blue that just arrived. Literally, just in time! Thanks Corey. I ordered it Friday and Tuesday it is in my hands.

 

[chode420]

Honestly in my opinion adding a little calmag won't hurt just a boosted calcium mag, helps plants soak up all the nutes also make sure your on the right part of the schedule as well, as in if your plants will finish sooner or later than the weeks on the nute calander

 

[COgrow]

Honestly in my opinion adding a little calmag won't hurt just a boosted calcium mag, helps plants soak up all the nutes also make sure your on the right part of the schedule as well, as in if your plants will finish sooner or later than the weeks on the nute calander

That's what I figured as well, but I don't want to buy it if i'm just locked out, with all the necessary stuff in the soil and coming from the BPN nutrients.

But that probably is not the case, which is why I come here... Thanks, I'll most likely be picking up calmag here today. And the schedule is PERFECT for my plants, they've got a 6-9 week window, exactly how the schedule was set up.

Oh yeah, Corey. For the Liquid blue... Is it used every watering like the label says? Not just on feeding days?

And just in case you missed it, I'm just curious as to what you say about adding cal-mag to the 3part + Liquid blue in RO water. Based on what you said earlier, I'm thinking the 3part should already contain the ca/mg, I don't want to add more if I'm just locked out potentially.

 

[DEAN420]

When the hydro shop owner told me to stop using tap because it has chloramine, I also asked whether or not he recommended using calmag and he said not to worry about that or about pH when growing in soil. I almost wish I just would have bought it. Any idea why he would have said this?.

When growing with organic soil and nutes, there is know need to PH your water because the soil will buffer it for you...

chemical nutrients are different.

 

[COgrow]

When growing with organic soil and nutes, there is know need to PH your water because the soil will buffer it for you...

chemical nutrients are different.

Would going from FFOF to promix change my needs for ca/mg? I wouldn't think so, and I'm still just set on the fact that my nutrient line should contain those elements. If I'm wrong, I will buy the ca/mg. I know you're not Corey and that you said I should use calmag, but was that considering what's already in my 3 part line?

I plan on checking the pH runoff when they need water again. I felt that by me messing with it I actually made it worse. Seems to be so, but I know that I can't rely on the pH to stay in range forever. Especially with with promix now.

 

[Blue Planet Nutrients]

some cal mag won't hurt at all. It is worth a try. Sometimes soil can contain certain amendments that can lock up (strongly bind) certain elements/nutrients very tightly causing a minor deficiency. As along as the new growth is greening up, I wouldn't worry about it too much. I would use the bloom booster only with each feeding. Add it to your other nutrients. You are adding your nutrients to the water and not mixing them together before adding the water, correct? I must ask this just to rule it out.

 

[COgrow]

some cal mag won't hurt at all. It is worth a try. Sometimes soil can contain certain amendments that can lock up (strongly bind) certain elements/nutrients very tightly causing a minor deficiency. As along as the new growth is greening up, I wouldn't worry about it too much. I would use the bloom booster only with each feeding. Add it to your other nutrients. You are adding your nutrients to the water and not mixing them together before adding the water, correct? I must ask this just to rule it out.

Definitely am mixing them into water separately. And could this new yellowing correspond to the new roots moving into the promix and out of the FFOF, which would contain all of it's nutrients? I couldn't get all of the soil off and opted to leave it instead of ruining the entire root ball. I removed a good layer of dirt from the outside, along with some roots, loosening the gnarled mess that wrapped around the bottom of the pot.

She had been transplanted a week before I switched. I gave them 32 hours of complete darkness from noon on Saturday to 8pm Sunday evening to get me at lights on during my coolest outside hours. Once I turned the lights on, I saw the new yellowing. I don't know if any of that matters, but I guess it's the whole story with all the details.

 

[chode420]

Did you water with nutes before it sat? It could of just ran out of cal/mag from not enough in the soil before you do anything water it like you'd normally do and see if it persist if so just add a lil bit more micro should make the def go away but like I said either way there no hurt having calmag on hand

 

[DEAN420]

The reason i said to use cal-mag is because it is romoved from RO water.

Most nutrients are made to be used with tap water which already contains calcium and magnesium.

alot nutes brands also come in hard and soft water versions for a better balance when added.

 

[Blue Planet Nutrients]

One tip: when transplanting, always try and handle the root ball/roots as little as possible. When transplanting to larger pots, regardless of soil mix, you should always gently squeeze the old container so that the entire root ball and all of the soil slides out as one big mass. Then place into your new container with enough soil at the bottom so when you fill up with soil around the edges, the top of the old roots and soil will either be slightly covered or level with the new soil. Fill around the sides with the new soil, tap on the ground to help it settle, and you are good to go. Disturbing the roots can cause a lot of stress and damage to the root hairs happens quite easily when handled. Since this is so soon after transplant, I would give them a few more days to overcome the slight shock they are probably experiencing. The new soil may have a different ph than the old soil. Not too big of a deal really unless there is a very drastic difference. Again, as long as the new growth is greening up after a few days, you are good to go. I have seen this numerous times and as long as it goes away, there are no problems. It is most likely a micronutrient such as iron, which is immobile, and the plant may be having trouble with nutrient uptake due to the transplant. this will correct itself soon. New roots will grow and it will be stronger than ever. my 2cents.

 

[COgrow]

Did you water with nutes before it sat? It could of just ran out of cal/mag from not enough in the soil before you do anything water it like you'd normally do and see if it persist if so just add a lil bit more micro should make the def go away but like I said either way there no hurt having calmag on hand

That definitely could be right, thanks for the idea man. I appreciate the methods of what to do as well.

The reason i said to use cal-mag is because it is romoved from RO water.

Most nutrients are made to be used with tap water which already contains calcium and magnesium.

alot nutes brands also come in hard and soft water versions for a better balance when added.

Yeah, I knew that it removed them during the RO process, but I wasn't sure if the BPN 3part made up for that. And like you said, some take in account RO water, some take in account hard water. Just was looking for the makers opinion was well.

One tip: when transplanting, always try and handle the root ball/roots as little as possible. When transplanting to larger pots, regardless of soil mix, you should always gently squeeze the old container so that the entire root ball and all of the soil slides out as one big mass. Then place into your new container with enough soil at the bottom so when you fill up with soil around the edges, the top of the old roots and soil will either be slightly covered or level with the new soil. Fill around the sides with the new soil, tap on the ground to help it settle, and you are good to go. Disturbing the roots can cause a lot of stress and damage to the root hairs happens quite easily when handled. Since this is so soon after transplant, I would give them a few more days to overcome the slight shock they are probably experiencing. The new soil may have a different ph than the old soil. Not too big of a deal really unless there is a very drastic difference. Again, as long as the new growth is greening up after a few days, you are good to go. I have seen this numerous times and as long as it goes away, there are no problems. It is most likely a micronutrient such as iron, which is immobile, and the plant may be having trouble with nutrient uptake due to the transplant. this will correct itself soon. New roots will grow and it will be stronger than ever. my 2cents.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind next time.

But, I've decided to foliar feed a little bit. Should help with my humidity as well. I'll keep an eye on them and see how the next few days go.

Thanks everyone.

 

[DEAN420]

I gave them 32 hours of complete darkness from noon on Saturday to 8pm Sunday evening to get me at lights on during my coolest outside hours. Once I turned the lights on, I saw the new yellowing. I don't know if any of that matters, but I guess it's the whole story with all the details.

32hrs of darkness is why you have the yellowing my friend!!! because you need the light for photosynthesis to happen otherwise chlorophyll production stops.

Now you have a balance of light and dark, 12/12. the correct hormonal reactions will continue for growth...

 

[COgrow]

Ah, that would make sense. I just had read that many people put the plants in a day or so of darkness to transition to flowering. Does this make any sense to you guys?

 

[goofyfoot]

P.S. I`m looking to grow really good buds that smoke clean and work well!!! If your into good smoke and prefer grams per watt or 60/65 day turn and burn`s. To recoupe investment or profit. This wont work!! I preferr to wait alittle longer, use less nuit`s and a good seed or clone just needs to be nugged along. Pot will grow in a side walk crack and you can blast the hell out of some strains with every formula on the shelf. If you dont kill it you will have enormuse results. I would not want to smoke it long term. Personal choose really, I `ll have 20 to 30 plants all outdoor/soil the hours of light are different every day( clouds/rain) I water and mist as explained every day and this lasts for 180 days!! April 1st start germinate and pull in Oct. It`s shear HELL!! All you smell is candy from Aug till end of Sept. but it`s worth the wait! I do have small indoor ebb/feed 12 barrel. I grow 2 plants per barrel with 50% mix and run 6 veg and 6 flower. Heavy T-5 600/800 watt and 2 250 watt HID`s for veg. In flower I have 3 sodiums 1 650 watt in center and 2 250 watts on sides.The 250`s reflect width ways and 650 runs long ways these are on one 1200 watt ballist. I have a bag of Ex Hale in each room and one in de- humidifier compartment.It`s in seal recurculating duct system with de/hum as cooler. Watts for indoor, patiance for outdoor and nuit`s to HELP plant fulfill it needs. There just like steroids in humans, you produce and use them yes. But look at what you can do to yourself at higher dose`s. Some see this as a good thing for plants?!?! NOT ME!!