Does curing stop below 50% RH?

[Regrowth]

Low and slow is only for the first few weeks though isn't it? I was explained that it's not for the curing process and just the drying step. Do you store it long term in the fridge?

 

[Roy Growin]

I know I'm alone here, but if you don't measure, it won't bother you
It is a relatively slow process, so plenty of scope to adjust as you go along

 

[Rexer]

Yup it is just for the drying- the "low" is from the low temps, and the slow is from the slow drying. The slower the dry, the better- I think I took 10 days to dry.

DrZiggy's Low And Slow Drying: Maximizing Your Harvest

Just a screen tray. Interesting. I've gone thru most of this thread (again) and compiled a bunch of notes. I suffer from CRS so I figured I would write it all down. Most comments mention the use of paper bags so I will go that route.

www.420magazine.com

That's pretty much what i followed, then just changed the paper bags for laid out cardboard, and did a complete wet trim.

 

[Rexer]

Omg thank you

Anytime Trala!
That guide in my signature I read before every harvest....and 5-75 times before the end of cure.

I'm no pro, but never be shy to tag me! Always willing to help

 

[Trala]

Anytime Trala!
That guide in my signature I read before every harvest....and 5-75 times before the end of cure.

I'm no pro, but never be shy to tag me! Always willing to help

Thank you

I did a wash, hang dry, jar cure this grow. It seems to be going okay. Nearly 3 weeks on my jars are between 65%-70% humidity. I burp and shake em all about each day. If the jars are up to 70%, I open and let them breathe for halfa.

I have 3 girls who are faced with the chopping block in 3-4 weeks. A notoriously humid time of year here. I am going to test his fridge cure method on some. Do like a half and half, just in case I mess it up. I won’t lose the lot.

I hate this part of the grow. You are so close but still so far.

 

[BakedARea]

Great post!! Bookmarked. Thanks for the link. Figured I would quote here too. Lol

Copy and paste of an article that I've found the easiest to follow. I am not the author.



Curing your post harvest blues..
Ah yes. Harvest time has come. The buds are swollen, the trichomes are the exact color you have been waiting for. The smell is rich, and soon becomes almost overpowering as you tear into that first bud with shiny new scissors. Not too many of us really like big trim jobs, but we endure. We endure because we know that in a few short weeks we will be enjoying the fruits of our beloved labor.

Of course, we all know that this is not the finish line. On the contrary, this is only the beginning of the race...



The Cure
Oh yes, the cure. Many times has this been judged the most important part of the growing experience, and with good standing reason. This is the point where all our patience and skill will shine through, or take a dive into the miserable oblivian of smoking mere mediocre herb. Botch things here and it will all be for not. Though a perfect cure can help cover up some small discrepancies during your grow, having the best growing conditions on earth will not earn you a free pass through this hallowed gate my friend.

So, how's your cure? Perfect? Consistantly perfect? Are you a Cure Master? Hmm.. Prove it. What?

Did you know that your cure can be broken down into a mathematical equation? What if I told you that you can attain the perfect cure, the best cure possible, every single harvest? And what if it was as easy as painting by numbers? And what if this could totally affect the way you cure, wether you are a newbie, or an old seasoned head?

The following is not something I discovered myself. I was first introduced to it from a guy named Simon. All though he initially taylored it to cannabis he, of course, didn't really discover it either. We most likey owe that to producers of tobacco. Their techniques are somewhat different but since they are curing a plant intended for smoking..... Well, it's just simply a matter of numbers.. I have, in turn, borrowed this concept and brought it here. I have eliminated what I deemed unneccessary and added some of my own insights/experiences. I have also condensed the original information the best I could (as it was quite haphazardly introduced, and many facts/ideas were addressed in later installments) in my own words (which has, in turn, increased greatly in size), but all credit must be afforded Simon for bringing these techniques, in their raw form, to public scrutiny. This, by no means, suggests that the work (either the original, or here) is complete. There are assuredly many more facts, discoveries and techniques left to be uncovered. That said, let's begin..

Cannabis is an annual weed. It's purpose in life is singular and pure: Continued propagation. The female cannabis plant, through it's propagating qualities is naturally the ultimate focuse of this forum, along with many others just like it. In order for the female cannabis plant to fulfill her destiny, and to fill our jars, like all life on earth she needs water. Her flowering buds are full of it. It is the point of drying them to release this water. The cure, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated. In contrast, the cure is an attempt to delay this release of water over time. It is this juggling act that is in dire need of deciphering and it is this thread that will show exactly how it is done. It is said that the bud of a cannabis plant continues to live for a certain amount of time after it is cut from it's stem ( per Ed Rosenthal), in some cases a couple of days. I personally think this is crazy. This is akin to cutting off a chickens head. A lot of good it did the chicken.. Unless your bud has the ability to sprout instant roots and walk itself to an empty pot it is, for all intensive purposes, d, e, a, d, dead. This, by no means, insinuates that there are not living cells and processes to be found, but without the ability to replenish water, the drying has begun. Even though the bud has begun it's dry cycle, there is still plenty of water in it to allow various cells to continue to function. Since the main stem has been cut they have no choice but to pull water and nutrients (in the form of clorophyl and other complex carbohydrates) from stores in the bud and process them into simple carbohydrates (simple sugars) in order to continue to function normally. The more complex carbohydrates that are broken down and the more simple carbohydrates that are used and the more moisture that is lost, the better your buds will be. Within this process is the secret to the perfect cure..


First we will break it down into phases. This seems easiest as you can refer back to any point of the cure by phase. Try to think of it like landing an airplane...

Phase one: The dry. This is kind of like preparing to land. The first thing you want to do is come to altitude and lower your landing gear. Basically, once you cut your bud, you need to decide what to do with it. Most of us go ahead and trim it now. Once it is trimmed to our liking, the bud is hung to dry.

Phase two: The pre-cure. This is somewhat like landing your airplane. The trick is to set it down on the runway at just the right angle as you begin to reduce your speed. This is where the mathematics come into play. What you are looking for here is the "feel". When your hanging bud begins to "feel" like it is drying out, but the stems are still flexible, it is time to jar. Don't worry, we will revisit this phase in more detail in a bit..

Phase three: The cure. Now your airplane is on the runway. This is where you are focusing on your instruments and applying the brakes. This is the actual part of the cure. It is a benefit to keep your bud in this stage for as long as possible. Actually, this may be a little misleading as some folks may like some cures better than others. In other words, this is the point where smells and flavors can change drastically. Depending on what it is you are after will dictate exactly how long you keep this phase in check. But only you can decide what you like.

Phase four: Storage. Well, the flight is over, time to put the airplane away. We have finally reached a point where the curing process has greatly slowed down and it is safe to store your bud.



Hygrometer is needed.

Phase one. 70% RH: This starts out just like any other time you have done it. Once you have harvested your bud and trimmed it to your liking, hang it in a cool dark place. This is where we will part from tradition. Allow it to hang until the buds begin to feel like they are drying (note the temps and rh as this will rarely be the same during subsequent harvests). They will start to lose their "softness" in favor of a slightly crispy texture. We don't want to allow it to dry until the stems snap. THIS IS WRONG! We want the stems to be flexible. Not totally soft, but not snapping, either. If allowed to dry until the stems snap we risk it drying too much and losing an opportunity to take full advantage of the cure window. You see once the bud reaches the 55% RH range, the cure is dead. No amount of moisture added will revive this. If you are a brown bag dryer you can still use this technique, although I no longer do. I feel it is unneccessary at this point in the drying process. Just make sure you do not over dry. Also, this is a perfect time to calibrate your hygrometers with your new calibrating kit. This phase may take anywhere from 2 to 7 days depending on ambient temp, RH and strain, etc. It is important to be right on top of this phase. Sometimes we will notice thinner stemmed buds getting done quicker. It is ok to take these first and put them in the jar. Just screw the cap on very loosely until the bulk of the bud joins it.



Phase two. 65%+ to 70%RH: This is where the numbers game begins to kick in. Once you have reached the crispy bud/flexible stem stage, it is time to jar it up. Now there are a few options here.. Really you can jar it up just like always. Only, fill your jar 3/4 to 4/5 full so you have room to use your hygrometer. You can leave it on the stem, stem free, whatever. I personally prefer it in it's finished state, no stems. You can leave just a few stems intact for the sake of testing stem flexibility. Also, with more stems comes more moisture. This may fit well with your style, but it also may play havoc if mold is present. Once your bud is in the jar drop in the hygrometer and cap it. Keep an eye on your meter for the next hour or so. What we are shooting for in this phase is 70% RH maximum. If you hit 71% or greater, you will have to take the bud out to dry more. If this seems a little tricky here, it is. The cure, even though we are still in the dry phase, has been happening to a small degree since the moment the bud was cut. Basically now we are juggling time with mold prevention. We want to avoid any instance of mold, but we want to get every second of cure time in that we can. The goal in this phase is to start at a 70% maximum RH and, in a timely and mold free manner, bring the RH down to about 65%. The reason I say "about" is that if there is an issue with mold (i.e. the crop was exposed to heavy mold before and/or during harvest) we may chose to take the RH even lower, like 62%. This won't leave a huge window for curing, but it will keep the bud safe. Ideally, however, 65% will do. Generally you can tell pretty quickly if the bud is still too wet as the hygrometer % will climb pretty quickly (rate: 1% per hour or faster). You will also notice, at this point, that the bud will feel "wetter". That's ok. The reason for this is that while the exposed part of the bud began to dry quicker than the inside during phase one, the inside of the bud and stems retained a good deal of their moisture. Once in the jars (phase two) that moisture can no longer be efficiently evaperated off and moved to a different area, being replaced by dryer air. Once you have determined the RH, which may take up to 24 hours, you can begin burping the jars. This can be done at a rate of one to two hours once or twice a day, depending on initial RH reading. Your room RH, temp, strain, exposure to mold and hygro readings will dictate this for you and wether to go faster or slower. Slower is always better, but precipitating factors, as stated, may trump this.. Also, at the end of this stage is where most commercial bud will hit the open market, if you are lucky. The bud at this stage should have that super sticky icky velvety feel and the 'bag appeal' will be at it's very highest.





Phase three, 60% to 65% RH: Your buds are in the jar and RH is 65% or less. Perfect. The object of the game, as stated before, is to slowly release the moisture from the jar over time. Your buds are now in the cure zone. At this point we are looking for a much slower release than phase two and will shift to a short burp once a week. Your buds will deliver a nice smoke at around 60%, so the speed at which this is done (which translates directly to duration of burpage) is entirely up to you. It is at this stage that small stems should snap in two. It is also in this stage that you will meet true stability, or equalization, in RH. What that means is that the amount of moisture in the stems is no longer disproportionate to the buds, and moisture transfer or persperation (sweat) slows dramatically. This also means it will take much longer to get a true reading from your Hygrometer. A true reading at this point might take up to 36 hours, but that's ok.

So, do you know what your idea of a perfect smoking bud is? If you have followed the phases as you have read them, then this is the stage where you can find out. It may be as specific as a stationary RH value, or even a "window" between different values. Everyone one should know there ideal smoking range. I prefer mine on a slightly dryer cure, say between 55 to 57%.




Phase four - 55%+ to 60%RH: Even though a true cure is far from over, your buds are truly ready to smoke if you wish. They are also ready to face long term storage. As stated before, the cure dies at -55%. It's ok for the cure to be dead if you have reached your desired cure level as later remoisturing can easily bring that bud back into your prefered smoking range. But, you can also continue the cure for long time periods and the trick to this is to stay above the 55% level. Unfortunately even claimed 'air tight' jars will allow bud to continue losing moisture over time. The trick here is to guarantee air tightness. Simon has suggested that he jars in air tight jars and double vacuum bags it as a way to ensure cure integrity. I am less picky. It is a good idea, though not neccessary, to leave a hygro in the jar and check it from time to time. I would start with once a week for the first month then, if everything is stable, once every month after that should suffice.

-end article

 

[Rexer]

Thank you

I did a wash, hang dry, jar cure this grow. It seems to be going okay. Nearly 3 weeks on my jars are between 65%-70% humidity. I burp and shake em all about each day. If the jars are up to 70%, I open and let them breathe for halfa.

If your having some troubles bringing it lower, make sure your jars aren't filled past the 2/3 mark (roughly, the less the better). Burp your jars in a dry area- if you can't find one, grab a large cardboard box, line the bottom with newspaper, then put your jars in the box. Then take the lids off and close the box- and set a timer....always set a timer. check back 20 min later, RH should be lower.

I have 3 girls who are faced with the chopping block in 3-4 weeks. A notoriously humid time of year here. I am going to test his fridge cure method on some. Do like a half and half, just in case I mess it up. I won’t lose the lot.

Do you have a dedicated fridge you can use? Even a small dorm/bar fridge?

I hate this part of the grow. You are so close but still so far.

Yup- this is where it's make or break. No pressure Tra! Seriously though you got this, just take it down in stages and you'll be great.

 

[Trala]

If your having some troubles bringing it lower, make sure your jars aren't filled past the 2/3 mark (roughly, the less the better). Burp your jars in a dry area- if you can't find one, grab a large cardboard box, line the bottom with newspaper, then put your jars in the box. Then take the lids off and close the box- and set a timer....always set a timer. check back 20 min later, RH should be lower.

Do you have a dedicated fridge you can use? Even a small dorm/bar fridge?

Yup- this is where it's make or break. No pressure Tra! Seriously though you got this, just take it down in stages and you'll be great.

I think I have too much in the jars because you’re right, the fuller jars are the higher readings. The 65% jars are half full.

I do. Well I don’t, it’s his bar fridge in his man cave. I can use that. Sure there will be tears and tantrums, but once I calm his sobbing he will soon understand there will be no negotiations, the fridge is now mine LOLLLINGGGG

This cure I’m in seems to be going well. It smokes great. Still smells a little hay-ee tho.

I am very interested in learning this fridge cure.

They say there is no such thing as a stupid question...

Does the humidity outside the jar effect humidity inside the jar when the lid is on? I’m thinking it doesn’t, but I don’t know.

 

[Rexer]

I think I have too much in the jars because you’re right, the fuller jars are the higher readings. The 65% jars are half full.

Yeah that's actually a very common mistake. Personally with the low and slow method aka fridge drying, it's even more important. Also you'll see a sharp rise in the RH when the buds first get taken from the paper bags and put into a jar. Do a one jar test, let it sit for an hour in a room temp jar to get a proper RH reading.

I do. Well I don’t, it’s his bar fridge in his man cave. I can use that. Sure there will be tears and tantrums, but once I calm his sobbing he will soon understand there will be no negotiations, the fridge is now mine LOLLLINGGGG

This cure I’m in seems to be going well. It smokes great. Still smells a little hay-ee tho.

I find around 3 weeks the smell starts turning to less hayish.

I am very interested in learning this fridge cure.

They say there is no such thing as a stupid question...

Does the humidity outside the jar effect humidity inside the jar when the lid is on? I’m thinking it doesn’t, but I don’t know.

Well- I wouldn't recommend a 100% RH, that might be bad place to store the jars
Unless you've paid good bucks, chances are there will be some slow leaking/transfer. That's one reason most opt for using bovedas for long term storage.

 

[Trala]

Yeah that's actually a very common mistake. Personally with the low and slow method aka fridge drying, it's even more important. Also you'll see a sharp rise in the RH when the buds first get taken from the paper bags and put into a jar. Do a one jar test, let it sit for an hour in a room temp jar to get a proper RH reading.



I find around 3 weeks the smell starts turning to less hayish.

Well- I wouldn't recommend a 100% RH, that might be bad place to store the jars
Unless you've paid good bucks, chances are there will be some slow leaking/transfer. That's one reason most opt for using bovedas for long term storage.

I hate those boveda things. I have them, and have used them but I want to cure without them. They make the bud smell funny. And not funny haha either. Funny yuck.

Speaking of smell, I got a joke for you.

What is the difference between humour and odour?
Humour is a shift of wit and odour is a wift of shit.

Boom-tish

 

[Spidermight]

Tbh i think ill just stick to what I've been doing, i like to keep things simple when it comes to growing weed, burp the jars everyday and whatever humidity is in the room, so be it lol

I used to be so careful with everything,then i started having big harvest's, and im just to lazy to do things properly now with how much weed i have

 

[joe99]

i've talked to a guy who works at a weed dispencary and he say's he alway's cures his weed at 30% humidity, i was quite shocked considering everyone online seems to say below 50% it won't cure, but the guy sure knew what he was talking about so idk...


honestly i just care about not ruining potency...

i have some weed i kept at 50% for a year now and it's still great, great high...

is there any evidence behind this or just people making claims?

This.

Not including "bro-science", I can't find any real science-based evidence. So I suspect that the "Curing process stops under 50% RH" is a myth that's been passed around from bro to bro and, nowadays, proliferated on the internet.

 

[Roy Growin]

This.

Not including "bro-science", I can't find any real science-based evidence. So I suspect that the "Curing process stops under 50% RH" is a myth that's been passed around from bro to bro and, nowadays, proliferated on the internet.

Hi @joe99

This thread has not been answered since Oct 21, I doubt he's still around

 

[Phytoplankton]

Don't confuse curing RH with storage RH. Curing is letting the buds/micro-organisms break down the sugars/starches and chlorophyll for a milder smoke, you need, at a minimum, 58-62% RH for curing to be effective. The slower, (i.e., longer) the better. Once curing has been achieved then you can dry it to whatever crispness floats your boat, then, seal and store it. I personally like around 62%, but I smoke a pipe, not joints. If I want to roll one, I'll let it sit out overnight.

 

[Roy Growin]

Don't confuse curing RH with storage RH. Curing is letting the buds/micro-organisms break down the sugars/starches and chlorophyll for a milder smoke, you need, at a minimum, 58-62% RH for curing to be effective. The slower, (i.e., longer) the better. Once curing has been achieved then you can dry it to whatever crispness floats your boat, then, seal and store it. I personally like around 62%, but I smoke a pipe, not joints. If I want to roll one, I'll let it sit out overnight.

See previous post Phyto - lol
I agree, btw

 

[joe99]

Don't confuse curing RH with storage RH. Curing is letting the buds/micro-organisms break down the sugars/starches and chlorophyll for a milder smoke, you need, at a minimum, 58-62% RH for curing to be effective. The slower, (i.e., longer) the better. Once curing has been achieved then you can dry it to whatever crispness floats your boat, then, seal and store it. I personally like around 62%, but I smoke a pipe, not joints. If I want to roll one, I'll let it sit out overnight.

Good point and thanks for the clarification.

Specifically regarding curing, the rationale sounds logical. But as hard as I try, I just can't find any published science about it. I'd even settle for a youtube video or forum post by a regular joe who has done a test of the theory with a cure done at 60% and one done at 50% (with the same batch of flower) -- with a subjective review of the resulting smoke/vape. Maybe I'll do such a thing myself after my next harvest.

I've already queried registered/certified Herbalists with no luck. I'll redirect my research to the tobacco/cigar industry to see what I can find there.

I find this stuff fascinating. If you are aware of any references/links, I would welcome them. Thanks.

 

[Phytoplankton]

Good point and thanks for the clarification.

Specifically regarding curing, the rationale sounds logical. But as hard as I try, I just can't find any published science about it. I'd even settle for a youtube video or forum post by a regular joe who has done a test of the theory with a cure done at 60% and one done at 50% (with the same batch of flower) -- with a subjective review of the resulting smoke/vape. Maybe I'll do such a thing myself after my next harvest.

I've already queried registered/certified Herbalists with no luck. I'll redirect my research to the tobacco/cigar industry to see what I can find there.

I find this stuff fascinating. If you are aware of any references/links, I would welcome them. Thanks.

I think you'll find that the tobacco industry will have good info. In what I've read in tobacco curing the objective is to reduce the amount of sugars/starches, carotenoids, and chlorophyll, through biological action, for a more mellow and flavorful smoke, in order for the bio action to occur there needs to be a certain % of water in the leaves (buds). I think that transfers pretty well into marijuana curing. Not supposed to use links, so just google "why is tobacco cured?" Hope this helps.