ItsNatural's 1st Grow - Mars LED 192x5 Reflector - Mars 3x3x6 Tent

[ItsNatural]

Well I just checked on things. Temps got as low as 57F and only as high as 77F. So I Turned up the heat to 5 and a half. but I also moved my intake duct up on my little stand. I pointed the heater towards the bucket, to heat it back up as I am going to feed tonight, After lights on i guess. I really would rather feed before lights out,but Im just not sure how long this will be good for and I dont want to push it.
Anyway I put the inline duct on my stand pointed toward the corner and over the bucket, where the heat should be bouncing off of and all around moving upward and into the duct and into the tent. Im going to go back out there in an hour and check to make sure things dont get too warm. Till then

 

[BpoBrad]

Looking good looks like you got the cold issue worked out, will you be topping?

 

[JuanCarlos]

Nice to see you have gotten the environment dialed in a bit. Good job.

 

[ItsNatural]

Update time.
I fed the girls their first dose of nutes last night. And it was hell. I caught some kind of bug yesterday, and was sick all day and night. Not really so much of a stomach thing ( although I couldnt eat) but My body hurt all over, skin hurt, hair hurt, Freezing but sweating non stop. It was horrible. But I knew I had to go out there and take care of my babies. All parents must make sacrifices I guess. Anyway. So I fed them the nutes I had been bubbling for 3 days. 3 Gal total for all 4 plants. Drained the run off. I have a turkey baster for when I get my scrog going and cant move my plants. That is going to suck ass. I already tried it a little when I first transplanted them and it was going to take forever. So for now I just let them drain, then sit them on another saucer while I drained the other. Im thinking of getting a small wet vac or a cheap siphon pump. I did a little research and seen a couple of different cheap siphon pumps. With a small hose on each end, I can put one in the saucer and the other in the jug. And then just pump till its gone. Its funny but it seems alot of people leave out these small details when making their journal or tutorial. Like I havent really seen alot of people talk about the clip fans, and how they dont want to stay on or pointed the way you want it to, because of the suction of tent. Or how to drain your run off when scrogging. Little details like that seem to get lost or forgotten. Sorry i am rambling again. I know what you all are waiting for.I dont really know who is who. Like I said, I was feaking dying last night. But I still took the time to take some pics for you pervs.

Here is what I was talking about the other day. I noticed that the floor was really cold. (heat rises I know) and that is where I have the vent laying. With the heater away from it pointed at it. It was working pretty good but for some odd reason, It started getting really cold int there. At first I thought my heater was messing up. But I noticed it was on like 3 or 3 and a half. I guess maybe in the warmer weather we had last week I had turned it down. So I turned it back up and pointed it toward the corner so it will hopefully hit the corner and float up, where my vent is hanging out sucking in. Temps this morning were too hot. Got up to 95. I turned heater down to 4 1/2. I aired the room out a little too cool it off. Wasnt hard as its still pretty cold out. I will check right before lights out to see where the temps are. Hopefully I got it stable again.

And take a look at this one. See the red? Is that a problem? And notice how red the stem is?

Until next time
Happy Growing

 

[ItsNatural]

Looking good looks like you got the cold issue worked out, will you be topping?

Yes, Im gonna top them. My plan is to let them get to about the 6th node. Then top. That way they have enough time to develop good root system, and hopefully recover alot quicker. I almost topped both LS today, but I was wanting to do them all at the same time. But once again, it appears I am not the boss. So I will most likely top 3 of them either tonight or tomorrow. MM1 aka Runt, looks like it will need a few more days. Im hoping this shot of nutes I gave them will wake her up.

 

[Stinky Snid]

Slight redness/purlple in the new leaves is phosphorus deficiency starting. Just up the bloom nutes a drop. Check into the pest and problem pictorial plants problem pictorial to confirm.

 

[ItsNatural]

Slight redness/purlple in the new leaves is phosphorus deficiency starting. Just up the bloom nutes a drop. Check into the pest and problem pictorial plants problem pictorial to confirm.

Thanks for the reply, Yea I seen that, Only thing is, its not showing any other signs and from what I read some strains just have red stems. Im hoping that its just the strain. I mean its in fresh FFOF soil. I just gave it a feeding but I didnt put any bloom nutes in it. Should I be? Any thoughts on that? I thought veg was more of a Nitrogen stage. Like I said, Im not seeing any other signs other than so I dont know If I should give it a shot of Bloom or just wait till I see another sign. Plus I gave it a feeding yesterday so maybe any problems will be solved with it. If there are any. I think I will wait it out.

 

[Stinky Snid]

This day my auto northern lights at about 4 weeks. See the red in the new leaves, it progressed from the stems. Keep an eye on it for a couple days, if it gets like mine it'd definitely phosphorus. I added a little bloom nutes to her and it cleared up within a week.

For now observe and wait. Imo a couple days to see what's up.

 

[ItsNatural]

Thanks for the help man. The new growth on mine, right in the middle, is like that. Or it was before I topped them. Do you think next feeing I should add some bloom. I have regular EJ bloom and EJ big bloomin guano. The regular bloom is 0-3-1 and the Big bloomin guano is 0-4-0. But I think when dealing with organics, you cant really pay too much attention to those numbers, as your not really feeding the plant, you are feeding the soil, which will feed the plant. Either way, should I throw in a dose of bloom next feed or should I continue to wait and hope the feeding I gave them took care of it. The EJ grow Is 2-1-1 so it should have provided a little. Im not sure how long it takes to really become a problem. anyway thanks for the info.

 

[ItsNatural]

Hello everybody. While talking to Snidrajsed, I realized that anyone reading this journal for Earth Juice Info doesnt have all they need yet. SO here is a little info about EJ so you dont have to scower the net lookingThere are also other EJ products like

Anyone who doesnt care or doesnt have the time to read, or your just wanting to watch the progression of my grow, skip ahead until you see pictures as I will be doing an update later.

OK now for some INFO

EJ Big Bloomin Guano ....This bat guano based liquid nutrient is high in phosphorus and is completely natural and organic. It encourages excellent blooming and fruiting production and can be used in any growing operation. NPK ratio of 0-4-0.

. Hi-Brix MFP is a natural source of carbohydrates (sugars) and plant nutrients that has been specially tailored into liquid formulation for indoor and outdoor plants in soil and hydroponics. It can be used in conjunction with a variety of fertilizers and highly recommended for the brewing of plant teas. For indoor/ outdoor plants, soil and hydroponics.



Three Little Birds Organic Information

Earth Juice Fertilizers - Recipes and Discussion Thread
the three little_birds are well know for our love of growing using organic fertilizers . . .
And while we are always looking for ways to utilize inexpensive and effective materials like manure,
alfalfa meal, kelp meal, and a variety of rock powders . . . we also know that some folks will only use
organic growing methods if the option is fairly simple and mess free . . . while organic fertilizers from
a bottle will never likely be as cost effective as using rock powders and teas made from alfalfa or guano
. . . they do offer great convenience and the good news for growers who demand their organic fertilizers
in a bottle . . . is that herbs grown exclusively with today's liquid organic fertilizers will rival those
grown with any method of organic growing we've ever used or experienced . . . there's no need to sacrifice
quality for convenience if your pocketbook can withstand the additional cost . . . our favorite among
premixed liquid fertilizers is the complete line of Earth Juice products . . . we've sampled other fertilizers
but always come back to Earth Juice . . . In our opinion they are the "premium standard" against which all
other organic ferts must measure themselves . . .

The basic line of Earth Juice fertilizers is 5 different products that can all be used in any combination
with each other . . . the ability to "mix and match" any of the 5 products gives us the versatility to deal
with any nutrient need (or problem) that might arise . . . here's a listing of Earth Juice array . . .
Earth Juice Grow
Earth Juice Bloom
Earth Juice Catalyst (called Xatalyst in Canada)
Earth Juice Meta-K
Earth Juice Microblast

The Grow and Bloom formulas can be used alone or in combination with each other . . . no big explanation
necessary with those names . . . their intended uses are pretty obvious . . . Catalyst is basically a jazzed
up Molasses / carbohydrate product to feed beneficial bacteria and act as a chelate . . . Meta-K is an
awesome Potassium supplement . . . and Microblast is one of the most useful and effective micronutrient
products we've had the pleasure of using . . . in our next post we'll give a more formal introduction to
the various components of the EJ line of ferts . . .

Meet the EJ lineup
here's the "scoop" . . . the "tech intell" . . . the "lowdown" . . . the "skinny" . . . on what exactly is
in those Earth Juice ferts that the 3LB's talk about so much . . .

EARTH JUICE GROW 2-1-1
bat guano
kelp
sulfate of potash
feather meal
oat bran
blood meal
steamed bone meal
this is the "jack of all trades" among the Earth Juice products . . . useful throughout all of vegging and the
first couple weeks of flowering . . . Depending on a plant's growth stage and we use the EJ Grow at concentrations
of anywhere from 1 TBSP to 2 TBSP per gallon (and we have pushed it to 3 to 4 TBSP without harm for very heavy feeders)

EARTH JUICE BLOOM 0-3-1
bat guano
seabird guano
kelp
sulfate of potash
steamed bone meal
oat bran
rock phosphate
we love our Earth Juice Bloom as a flowering fertilizer and. . . because this product has no Nitrogen it's especially
useful for late stage flowering when it's desirable to let a plant use up the soil's nitrogen reserves . . . and for
an added boost of Phosphorous at those times when plant's need an extra boost of P . . . we normally use EJ Bloom at
rates between ½ and 2 TBSP per gallon . . .

EARTH JUICE CATALYST
oat bran
kelp
wheat malt
molasses
yeast
For some odd reason, the Canadian Government requires this product to be labeled as "Xatalyst" . . . but whatever
it's called where you live . . . if you've looked over the "Molasses Manual" by the 3LB you may already know the
biggest "secret" to this product . . . the sweet sticky goodness of molasses . . . as we've said elsewhere molasses
feeds microbes and acts as a chelating agent to make micronutrients more available to plants . . . those extra
organic goodies in Catalyst like wheat malt and oat bran are just "icing on the cake" . . .

Earth Juice Meta-K 0-0-10
sulfate of potash
pretty simple product with apparently only a single active ingredient . . . it does have a good measure of Sulfur . . .
and it's very useful to give an extra boost of Potassium when necessary . . . Many organic fertilizers run a little
"lean" on K - especially guano based products . . . and EJ Meta-K gives us a way to add that needed Potassium in
controlled amounts as needed . . .

Earth Juice Microblast
kelp meal
magnesium sulfate
borax
cobalt sulfate
ferrous sulfate
manganese sulfate
sodium molybdate
zinc sulfate
the Microblast tests out to the following percentages . . . Magnesium (Mg) .05%, Boron (B) .02%, Cobalt (Co) .0005%,
Iron (Fe) .10%, Manganese (Mn) .05%, Molybdenum (Mo) .0005%, Zinc (Zn) .05% . . . in our experience it's a great all
around micronutrient supplement that resolves almost every potential micronutrient issue likely to arise . . .
there's your "Earth Juice All Stars" lineup . . .

Earth Juice Recipes

Growth Recipes
we get many PM's and email requests for our Earth Juice recipes . . . many folks - it seems - would love for us to
just spell out the specific nutrient mixes and quantities we use with every feeding . . . . if only life were so simple!
What and how much we use vary's some from strain to strain . . . Perhaps even from plant to plant . . . so it's
just not possible to set a schedule and ignore the plants . . . The best gardeners become "at one" with their plants
and feed them according to the plant's needs . . . even anticipating their needs . . .

standard mix for vegging plants is usually
1 to 2 TBSP Grow
1 tsp Bloom
1 tsp Catalyst (called Xatalyst in Canada for some odd reason)
(all ingredients are added to a gallon of water . . . )

there are times where we might increase the Bloom portion up to as much as a tablespoon . . . Especially for plants
in the early stages of flowering . . . and we can go as high as 3 or even 4 TBSP of Grow for really N hungry plants -
but if we increase the Grow fert above 2 TBSP per gallon we usually leave out Bloom & Catalyst )

we also use what we call our "microblast mix" once or twice during the normal life-cycle of vegging plants . . .
no big difference between this and the prior mix except this one has an extra boost of Meta K and Microblast . . .
1-2 TBSP Grow
1 tsp Bloom
1 tsp Catalyst
1 tsp Meta-K
1 tsp Microblast

as folks may have observed in our "Growing LUI with the 3LB" thread . . . we also commonly use some kinds of fish
fertilizers and kelp concentrates during a plant's early growth stages . . . we like the combination of enzymes and
proteins and hormones the fish and kelp provide together . . . but it's common for some fish products to be high in
heavy metal contaminants like Mercury . . . so the "seafood platter" is a treat we feed our babes and the Earth Juice
is their regular diet . . .

Flowering Recipes

early stage flowering plants can often use a fair measure of nitrogen as they stretch . . . so a normal Earth Juice mix in
early flowering will look pretty similar to a Grow mix . . . we like to use something along the lines of the following for
the first couple weeks of flowering . . .
1 TBSP EJ Grow
1 TBSP EJ Bloom
1 tsp Catalyst (yeah we know - it's Xatalyst north of a line from Seattle - Duluth - Niagra!)

as flowering progresses we forego the Nitrogen to let our plants use N reserves from the soil as they finish flowering . . .
so mixing an Earth Juice Bloom formula can be as easy as . . .
1 TBSP EJ Bloom
1 tsp EJ Catalyst

for really hungry darlings we'll go as high as 2 TBSP per gallon with the EJ Bloom . . . but pouring it on that heavy can
burn light feeders . . . and even with heavy feeders it's better to build up to stronger concentrations of EJ Bloom over time
than to just start in at 2 TBSP per gallon right away as plants begin to flower. . .

and we also have a bloom "micro-mix" that includes Meta-K and Microblast . . . it's used once in a blooming plant's life
(or maybe twice in plant's with a long flowering) . . . Like the growth "microblast mix" it gives an extra boost of Potassium
and assorted micronutrients to make sure the plants will want for nothing!
The flowering micro-mix usually goes like this . . .

1 TBSP Bloom
1 tsp Catalyst
1 tsp Meta-K
1 tsp Microblast

that's about all there is to making an awsome plant-enriching organic brew with Earth Juice . . . it's really that simple . . .

Miscellaneous Earth Juice Notes
In theory there's no need to "flush" organic soil grown herbs before harvest . . . and because organic fertilizers are not salt based
like chemical fertilizers . . . traditional techniques for "flushing" wouldn't carry away nutrient salts in the traditional meaning of
the word "flush" anyway . . .
That creates a danger with organic fertilizers that doesn't exist with salt based chemical fertilizers . . . with salt fertilizers
over-fertilizing can be pretty severe . .. But it will show up fairly quickly . . . and the solution (a good flushing) can be
enacted pretty quickly too . . .

it's probably harder for a grower to over-fertilize using organic fertilizers . . . but if they do there's no quick solution . . .
organic fertilizers usually can't be flushed away like salt fertilizer's can . . . so if a grower over-fertilizes they will likely
have to live with the consequences for a longer term . . .

And when it comes to harvest time . . . we do go ahead and put our organic herbs on a "crash" diet . . . in the past it's just been
pure water for the last two weeks . . . But lately we've been experimenting with using Fulvic Acid with the watering during the second
week before harvest . . . and then plain water the final week . . . this technique really seems to bring out the fullest potential of
our babes . . . but the wonders of Humic Acid and Fulvic Acid are deserving of their own thread . . .

And finally . . . before we finish our initial discussion of Earth Juice Fertilizers . . . we need to touch on the practice of premixing
and bubbling Earth Juice fertilizers . . . we get a lot of questions on this topic in private so may as well discuss it here and avoid
having to type the same information time and time again . . .

This is the most common question we hear . . .
"Is it absolutely necessary to pre-mix and bubble / aerate Earth Juice fertilizers before use ? ? ?"
Our simple answer is no it's not necessary at all . . . but Earth Juice will be more efficiently and effectively used if "brewed" for
24-48 hours before use . . . in organic farming the old adage is "feed the soil not the plant" . . . and making your Earth Juice fert
mix into an aerated tea maximizes the benefits it can provide for your plants . . . but they will work fine if used without any
premixing or bubbling . . .
we would also like to add that if you do not care to go to the bother of premixing and aerating your Earth Juice . . . that you use
the fertilizers in smaller / lighter proportions . . .

We also hear this question a lot . . .
"What about the low pH of those Earth Juice fertilizers? - Will that low pH harm my plants?"
And our simple answer is that there's likely little concern about that issue unless your growing medium is already abnormally
acidic . . . but we can also say that the pre-mixing and bubbling/aerating we talked about in the prior question will moderate the
pH to an extent . . . and that can allow heavier feedings overall . . .

Our experience with Earth Juice in everything from 3 gallon pots to 30 gallon beds indoors is that a good soil mix with a healthy
microbe population will moderate it's own pH to an extent . . . and the calcite and dolomite lime use commonly in soil mixes will
do some of the work as well . . . so we've never had any actual problems with pH in our Earth Juice experience . . .

And finally we also get asked . . .
"Can I get by with just Bloom and Grow and not have to go to the expense of the other products?"
And the simple answer is yes of course you can. Catalyst is a molasses based product so the substitution of cheap and easily available
Blackstrap molasses will be almost as good as the real thing. . . And although we prefer to use Microblast and Meta-K a few times
during a plant's life . . . we've certainly had great grows without them . . .
Not having those extra ingredients available will make your life much more difficult if something does go wrong . . . having a
sufficient source of Potassium is a major factor in a plant's ability to withstand the heat stresses inherent in many grow rooms . . .
and micronutrient deficiencies can be hard to diagnose and treat without a "full range" micronutrient fertilizer like Microblast . . .
Maxicrop kelp concentrate is the only other substitute we know of that's as effective at treating a shortage of potassium and trace
minerals . . . and many growers prefer to avoid using kelp products during the later stages of flowering . . .

 

[Stinky Snid]

Just keep the feeding the same and add a minute amount of extra phosphorus ratio. You will be upping the bloom nutes soon so you can wait until then. Hope we can get some more input on this. I'll check in so

 

[ItsNatural]

Here is a link to one of the BEST research I have been able to read. Its here on our own 420 site so No worries
A top nutrient study - Which is the best? Produces most?
That link is not only a good place for EJ info but a great place for Nute info period. If you use FOX FARM, GENERAL ORG. Neptune's Harvest, Advanced nutrients Sensi line, Bio-Canna, it might be worth the read. Or if your undecided on what your going to use. It might be worth the read. But for now I will cut and paste the EJ info for anyone thinking of using.

First and foremost, I would like to give credit to whom ever wrote this originally, and thanks to ledtester for posting it here on 420

Ok now for the info,

It's important to understand some general organic microbial life. Microbes make up the majority of soil life in nature. Bacteria, fungus, nematodes, algie and many other micro organisms live in soil. In these tests I was primarily concerned with Bacteria and fungus. Bacteria are usually single celled creatures that prefer generally higher pH environments. There are literally billions and billions of them, some thrive in low oxygen soil (anaerobic) and others need air to properly thrive (aerobic). Bacteria need water to live producing a slime of sorts around them that binds the substrate together and preserves some moisture required for it's survival. They are extremely good at decomposing organic matter by producing enzymes that break down nutrients. The enzymatically digested nutrients are then absorbed back into the bacteria. Fungus is similar in that it also uses enzymes to decompose matter but has some unique characteristics. First, it produces Chitin. This is the same biological substance used in crab and various sea shells and the exoskeletons of many insects. Chitin gives fungus stiffer and a more resistant cellular make-up than bacteria. These fungus cells combine into chains and have passageways between them. This allows fungus to transport fluids from one end of it's chain to the other. I'm sure many of you have heard of Mycorrhizal fungi for example, which encircles and sometimes attaches to root systems searching for food and water on it's own by expanding beyond the plants regular capacity, then transports the nutrients back to the roots. Root's will exchange these nutrients for carbohydrate rich fluids called Exudate's. These exudate's are imperative to producing chitin. The important feature here is that the plant chooses when to exchange the nutrients hence giving a healthy plant more natural control over it's own growth. It also means that this fungus will become an extension of root systems leading to more efficient nutrient absorption. When fungus and bacteria absorb a nutrient, that nutrient becomes locked inside them. They don't release this nutrient until exudate exchange or death. This means nutrients have more of a lasting and natural effect creating a humus rich, nutrient available medium. There are books based on this subject so I won't get to deep into it, but I feel promoting a strong microbial life in organic applications is my primary priority. I'll frequently refer to this microbial life, explaining it further. Plants are not totally depended on these methods of nutrient absorption. They can produce they're own enzymes also, just not nearly as efficiently.

I also think understanding " Brix " content can have benefits in comparative tests. Brix is a measure of a combination of various amino acids, oils, proteins, flavonoids, minerals and primarily sugars/carbohydrates within a plant's tissue. Many vineyards and fruit farmers use Brix levels to determine flavor and nutrition values in grapes and fruit. Brix levels can expose some important features in regards to marijuana. It is a great way to monitor your plants health measured using a refractometer. Much in the same way light beams change direction under water a refractometer measures the change in light direction sent through a sample of extracted fluid from the plant. The larger the direction change, the higher the Brix. Basically, as nutrient absorption occurs (specifically carbs and sugars), measured Brix levels rise. If the appropriate ingredient is poorly absorbed Brix levels will remain the same or lower. With that theory in mind we can better determine how well different nutrients react with Marijuana. Interestingly, organic mediums and organic solubles produce much larger Brix numbers. Plants with high Brix numbers are healthy, more pest resistant and full of nutritional value. Essentially the healthier plant is naturally more resistant to pathogens such as insect infestation. Plant eating insects lack the internal organs to properly digest certain sugars (specifically a liver). Undigested sugars will eventually ferment into alcohol killing the insect or disrupting it's digestive system. High Brix typically implies high sugar content hence are generally more unattractive to these bugs. Weak, infested or diseased plants always have lower Brix numbers. High Brix will improve taste, resin production, odor and potency. I feel it's an underestimated value in regards to plant management. If your interested look into Dr. Reams.

Earth juice full line = Grow (2-1-1) - Bloom (0-3-1) - Microblast - Catalyst (0.03-.01-1) - Meta-K (0-0-10) Hi Brix Molasses

The "Grow" uses blood meal, steamed bone meal and bat guano as the primary source for nitrogen - 50% of which in non-soluble. This non-soluble nitrogen is imperative in feeding beneficial fungi and bacterial life in the medium. It's very inconsistent from one batch to the next. Occasionally, it's solid as Play-doe. Naturally occurring Sulfate of Potash is used providing appropriate amounts of potassium. Sea kelp (Ascophyllum Nodusum) provides various growth regulators and trace elements. High quality Molasses, a secret weapon in many nutrients is also included. Between Kelp and molasses the Brix levels here are through the roof as both these ingredients are packed with carbohydrates. This product produces tremendous vegetative growth developing a solid foundation for flowering. During the first 6 weeks of veg this schedule led the pack ratings wise and numerically.

The "Bloom" contains no direct form of nitrogen. Rather than blood meal it uses fossilized seabird guano. Normally seabird guano is high in nitrogen but when "fossilized" it breaks down into primarily a phosphorus and potassium rich substance. Other than that, the ingredient's included are the same as Grow in different ratios. Grow and Bloom are weak when used alone. They are designed to be mixed together through-out the entire vegetative and most of the flowering cycle or deficiencies will occur.

The "Micro blast" is a sulfate based formula supplying various micro nutrients. Understanding some soil micro-biology is important to understand the effectiveness of sulfates. In a healthy, living substrate there are sulfur - oxidizing bacteria (they make energy through reacting with sulfur) that help break down organic material producing soluble and easily available nutrients for your plants. This process has essentially already taken place in regards to sulfates and Micro blast, creating an almost chelated effect. The included nutrients and minerals are readily available with-out much assistance from microbial life. In early flowering under heavy growth demands I felt Micro blast was weak in Zinc and Magnesium.

"Catalyst" is an oat bran and sea kelp based nutrient. It is the most popular of the E.J. products. The Catalyst is exactly that. It assists in building soil structure, micro-bial life (specifically beneficial fungal life), organic material break down, contains growth simulators and various hormones. It is an absolutely vital component to the E.J. line and again, sends Brix levels soaring. It contains a tremendous amount of high quality, plant available molasses, and amino acids feeding microbial development.

"Meta K" is also an important addition specifically in relationship to cannabis. Marijuana demands large amounts of potassium in flowering. This product provided more than enough and easily is over applied. I found less amounts spread out over the entire cycle worked excellent.

Earth Juice products work best if applied making an air infused "tea". This tea will explode with microbial life and creates a "living foam" on it's surface. I pre-mix 24 to 48 hours in advance of feeding, heating the solution mildly to 85 degrees. This turns into a rich mixture of balanced, active microbes. Between this tea, the Catalyst and some vital non-soluble nitrogen the bacteria and fungal life within the medium thrives. This soil-life will feed your root zone and in turn feed your plant. With Earth Juice you focus more on maintaining a healthy living medium. The "Grow" gets premixed in a small container so I can viciously shake the hell out of it - then add it to the solution. This tea can last some time with air being pumped in - sometimes a week. It's time consuming but well worth the effort. pH must be balanced prior to application. The Macro nutrient solutions are non pH buffered. It WILL be low. You can also simply pre-mix before application - but mix thoroughly.

This cycle has ridiculous bud development. The diverse ingredients here react excellent with Marijuana. Earth juice uses the highest quality guano available and the molasses is top notch. Smell and flavor are far superior than most other tests. Crucial mid flowering stages with Earth juice responded very well to additives. Cal/Mag in various forms helped firm up buds. Enzymes specifically and beneficial's made nutes more available and increased absorption rates. See the Additive section for more specific results. Final product was phenomenal, buds were swollen and furry with trichromes. I have a long history with Earth juice and expected it to finish high in this overall test. It remains my primary soluble nutrient today. It was second only to Advanced Nutrients in production weight but far better quality in my opinion. The smoke produced simply tastes the best among these cycles and potency is top of the list. I cannot recommend this cycle enough if your interested in organics. When properly applied Earth juice will match any nutrient application out there.

Here is the schedule the guy used for his testing. Its similar to what I am going to use. Although he used other stuff with it that I do not have so I will have to adjust accordingly.

-------------Catalyst--------Micro---------Grow---------Bloom-------Meta K-------------Hi Brix

week1 veg-----5ml----------5ml-----------5ml
week2 veg----10ml----------5ml-----------5ml
week3 veg----10ml----------5ml-----------10ml----------------------------------------5ml
week4 veg----10ml----------5ml-----------10ml----------------------------------------5ml
week5 flower--10ml----------5ml-----------10ml-----------5ml---------2.5ml---------5ml
week6 flower--10ml----------5ml-----------10ml---------10ml----------2.5ml--------5ml
week7 flower--10ml----------5ml-----------10ml---------10ml---------2.5ml---------10ml
week8 flower--5ml-----------5ml-----------15ml---------15ml---------2.5ml---------10ml
week9 flower--5ml-----------5ml-----------15ml--------20ml---------2.5ml----------10ml
week10flwer----------------5ml-----------10ml-------- 25ml---------2.5ml-----------10ml
week11flwr-----------------5ml------------------------20ml ---------------------------10
week12 FLUSH

Repeat week 3 for veg or 10 for flower extension


Hi-Brix (0-0-3) is made by Earth Juice. It is similar to Black-strap Molasses but contains more plant appropriate amino acids and plant extracts
Earth juice specifically is notoriously poor at blending with RO filtered water. It tends to prefer harder water. I simply leave my tap water out for a few days and try to bubble air through it for 24 hours prior to mixing anything. I also pre-mix my grow separately and then add it to the solution - it can be fairly solid sometimes and needs some extra shaking up. Microbial life with this schedule does exceptional and the Hi-brix really helps feed the root zone.

Anyway there you have it.
I personally am using the stuff for the first time. So I think I will be a good example of how well this stuff works for a beginner. If anyone has anymore info on EJ please feel free to post a link or copy the info and paste it.

 

[AquaGrower]

Hey ItsNatural, Looks like a great start thus far! I wanted to tag along because I have the same, but smaller, light of that series and would like to see how things grow for you.

 

[ItsNatural]

Hey ItsNatural, Looks like a great start thus far! I wanted to tag along because I have the same, but smaller, light of that series and would like to see how things grow for you.

Good to have ya AquaGrower. Which light do you have and what do you think of it? Im actually waiting to say anything about my stuff because Im waiting on a reply from Mars-Hydro. I have still yet to hear back from them. They put a sticker on their stuff saying if you have a problem, talk to them first. Before you post in forums. And I am giving them that courtesy, but like I said, havent heard from them.

 

[ItsNatural]

UPDATE TIME!!!
Ok 420 world. I topped all the girls last night. I plan to go out there tonight and do some LST with the ones tall enough. So good vibes my way tonight so I dont break any of them. I really need to go to the supply store and get all my stuff for my scrog but due to snow, school has been out most of the week so hopefully Monday or Tuesday I can get there and get my stuff. Anyway here is some pics from last night.

Ok thats it for now. Like I said I plan to do some LST tonight. Ill take some pics and post either later tonight or tomorrow. Till then
Happy Growings.

 

[ItsNatural]

Hello everyone. Here with an update. I started lst on 3 of the girls. The only one that I didnt mess with is the runt aka MM1. Just not enough there to tie down. As for the others. I have good news and bad news. the good news is I have some pics, The bad news is that I took ALOT of pics. But for some reason, I copied over to my computer then deleted off my phone. Then realized for some reason not all copied. Only 4 or 5 did. Very aggravating as I took alot of time to take very good pictures. Starting with what I was using. Which is some cheap clips and soft pipe cleaners. Any way. Wife is home so I will update more morro. Here are what pics made it.

 

[ItsNatural]

Ok short update real quick. I went out there this morning. Bent the plants down more. I didnt want to take them all the way down in one shot. And really there is no need for me to. No need in risking breaking it when I can be patient and do in over a series of trips. One thing I didnt take into consideration was the give of my fab pots. It made it a little hard to mess with. And made it really hard to brace from opposite side.
I also mixed my nutes today and have them bubbling. The mix went as follows

1tsp GROW
1tsp CATALYST
1/2tsp HI-BRIX
1/2tsp CAL MAG
1/2tsp MICROBLAST

Well gotta go. ICE CREAM PARTY!!!

 

[ItsNatural]

quick note. Today I noticed some of the new growth has a little red to it also. So I added Big Bloomin Guano to my mix. Not alot. Just about 3/4th tsp to the whole 3 gal mix. So it breaks down to 1/4tsp a gal. I prolly should have just went a half tsp to the whole mix. What do you all think. And what do you all think of my lst so far. If you see something that needs improvement, please feel free to say.

 

[Stinky Snid]

Slow and steady on the LST, it's the only way to go. Initial bends look good man, as long as it doesn't break you did it right. imo. They all seem very pleased with their new orientation.
Same with the nutes, slow and steady. Ease into the new nutes slowly. 1/4 this time and maybe half next time. See how she reacts to them and adjust accordingly.

 

[AquaGrower]

Good to have ya AquaGrower. Which light do you have and what do you think of it? Im actually waiting to say anything about my stuff because Im waiting on a reply from Mars-Hydro. I have still yet to hear back from them. They put a sticker on their stuff saying if you have a problem, talk to them first. Before you post in forums. And I am giving them that courtesy, but like I said, havent heard from them.

Thanks ItsNatural, I have the 96x5w Reflector series and its strange you haven't heard back from them yet. I received my light fairly quickly from them, though I did discover a broken cooling fan. I emailed them the day I got the light, received a reply same day and had a new fan within a week. Also take into account that the Chinese New Year is on the 8th, but they won't return to work until after the 13th.