Jamn49 Double Chunk Strawberry 2010

Jamn49

New Member
I started a thread detailing my research, design, building and first grow of my DIY grow Cab. Since it is now a straight grow, I wanted to begin a official grow journal.

Check here for the beginning: Stealth Cabinet Build-Input Requested

To Summarize:
Double Chunk Strawberry-Not a lot of knowledge of the strain, but a indica that grows very short and bushy. I believe it has roots in the Deep chunk x Strawberry cough from No Cal (Blue Sky I think). I was told a very short flower of about 5 weeks. Main reason strain was picked for me as this is my first grow and just tiring to not F things up too much.

Currently in my 3rd week of veg under 400w hps in a cool tube. (Next grow will veg with T5's or MH) 10 of the clones were cut on 3/6/10, and 2 the day I received them 3/9/10.

Indoor grow cab in garage (see cab details at previous thread) with a Turbogarden ebb and flow with 20 gal res.

The temps have been around 80-85 max (with a few 90 in there during a heat wave) and 60-65 minimum. RH has been as high as 65 and as low as 20.

Pests-Started with a few fungus gnats and root aphids when in just 3" tall size RW, used the yellow sticky traps and when RE transferred to 5" pots with Hydroton, most disappeared. A few every other day or so, but easy to kill.
Two days ago I found my first Spider mite:yahoo: I was told to use Neem and SM90. So last night I got the supplies and made 1 gal of Neem (1 oz per gal of RO). Then put 6 oz of SM90 in spray bottle and added 30 oz of the neem mixture. (Why the SM90 gives a ml/gal for mixing with res and not for foliar spray I don't know, just says 1:5) I took each plant out and gave them a complete spray down concentrating on the undersides of the leaves. After all were sprayed, I had a little spay left, so I took them out and shot them again. This morning the plants looked great! I have been dealing with a over watering problem, and they have never looked so perky!

Watering-I am using GH 3 part with tap water. I have 2 air stones and a 160 gph water pump to keep the nutes circulating. I am currently using the GH recommended 3-2-1 mixture for general veg. Tap water starts about 230 and after the nutes are added it is around 1450-1500 ppm with a Hanna ppm meter (blue top). The ph of the water out of the tap is high 7's, after the nutes are added goes down to ~6.5, then use GH ph down to get to 5.7-5.8. When ph gets up to 6.0(2-3 days) then I lower it down to 5.8 again. Changing the nutes about every 9 days or so. (First full res change was actually last night) Is your res supposed to start to smell like a fish tank? Mind you not a rotten nasty fish tank, but but a normal fish tank. The res temps have maxed about 74, but this last week I started to put in a frozen bottle of aquafina (larger size) in the morning and that is helping to keep it below 70.

Pictures: I have a few at the old thread (check link above) or you can check them in my gallery here: - 420 Magazine Photo Gallery

Here is one from this morning:
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They seemed to do ok while I was away this weekend. I have noticed some others are getting brown leaves, and not the lower old growth, leaves at the tops of the plants. Wondering if nute burn, or not enough water? Have some pics, but after looking at them I did not do a great job on the focus. Having to go to manual setting on the camera so I can set the white balance to eliminate the orange hps light makes the focus picky. Will get some more tonight.

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Here is the browning, if you can make it out. ppm around 1350-1400 with tap water starting at 230. Sorry, not sure of the ppm meter conversion scale. It's the blue topped hanna unit.
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Please let me know what you think.
 
they look a little underwatered, and the browning could be caused by too much nutes, especially since it is on the newer growth.. I'm a soil grower though, so I'll let some hydro guys come in and speak their mind.
 
So I took some better pics of the problems girls hoping somebody can help. Last night I gave them each about 120 ml flush of pH RO(from a bottle), and this morning I drained 1/4 of the res and replaced with tap water, then ph to 5.8. The ppm went from 1350 to 1150. I also noticed along with the browning, one plant's lower leaves are balling up. At this point, I hope these plants make it to flower without dying!

The plant with the worse browning.
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Close up of the browning
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The "balling" leaves
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Any help would be appreciated!
 
Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver - Pictorial

Check the description for boron deficiencies...however boron is a micronutrient and I find it a bit odd you're having that large of a deficiency problem with micronutes at this point. Assuming it IS a boron deficiency you need to find out if it's because it is being locked out due to wrong pH levels or if it's truly deficient in the soil. If it is being locked out due to a pH imbalance you can foliar feed until the pH is straightened out...but don't overfeed ;) You're using hydro and I know very little about that so the details you provided may help someone else determine your problem a bit better.
 
It almost looks like too much nutes and your plants are starting a nute lockout. It sounds like you are taking the first steps that I would take. Keep an eye on them over the next few days and maybe things will get better.

GOOD LUCK!!!
 
It almost looks like too much nutes and your plants are starting a nute lockout. It sounds like you are taking the first steps that I would take. Keep an eye on them over the next few days and maybe things will get better.

GOOD LUCK!!!

So far so good. They did not respond much to the pure water feeding from the top (stayed kinda droopy), so yesterday morning I flooded the tray for 2 minutes so the water level would get to the RW above the hydroton. When I got home last night they looked much more perky. This morning they were a little droopy again. I think they are now wanting more liquid, so I added a minute to 2 floods during the day so the RW will keep getting a little water. We'll see how they respond to that.

Ever since I diluted the res from 1310 (1540-230 tap) to 920 (1150-230 Tap), the new growth is not showing any signs of browning. I clipped the leaves that were really brown so they wouldn't black the other green leaves.

Tonight is the third application of the neem & sm90 (did a spray every 3 days), and then I will spray every week up until 2-3 weeks before harvest.

Tallest is about 9" and they have been growing about 1/2-3/4" per day despite my best efforts to stun/kill them:bravo:. If they keep this pace, I will switch to 12/12 Sunday or Monday, if they like the new feeding schedule and pick up the pace, maybe a couple of days earlier.

Thanks for the help! (I obviously need it):thanks:
 
If they are drooping that is a sign of over watering. The leaves will almost be pointing Straight up in the air if they are thirsty. I also have never done a hydro grow, I am just speaking from my soil experiences.

From what I have read, and experienced so far is that leaves can droop from over or under watering (why it can be hard to diagnose). I have had them droop, then watered and nothing happened because they were already over watered. Yesterday when I watered them after they were drooping, they picked right up in a couple of hours and looked great. From what I have read, if the droop starts closer to the stem of the leaf, then it tends to be under watered. Not to mention, when I picked up one of them before I watered it was really light. It's a day to day battle, that I will hopefully win!
 
Ok that looks to be a simple problem, lights are too close. Those look to be fried tops to me (sunburn)...look at where the damage is...closest to the light...move the light up and maybe get a fan blowing on their tops. The light green edges and tops of the interveinal structures and the one leave are good signs. Forgot to add, it might also just be too hot in the cabinet...what are your temps?

:peace: If that isn't it, I suggest PMing grow support.
 
Ok that looks to be a simple problem, lights are too close. Those look to be fried tops to me (sunburn)...look at where the damage is...closest to the light...move the light up and maybe get a fan blowing on their tops. The light green edges and tops of the interveinal structures and the one leave are good signs. Forgot to add, it might also just be too hot in the cabinet...what are your temps?

:peace: If that isn't it, I suggest PMing grow support.

I thought light burn at first as well, but it's only a 400 at ~10" above the tallest plant. Many have told me it's too far away! Plus, some of the plants that are right under the bulb were not burned. I do have a fan blowing across the top. Temps have been pretty good lately. 78 at the top of the canopy and 82 at the base of the plants. I think it was nute burn, because ever since I diluted the nute solution, there has been no more brown. The tips of the plants are still curled down though.

Sprayed with neem & sm90 last night. They are looking a bit better. I have decided that Saturday I will switch to 12/12. What is everyone opinion on a 24/36 hour dark period in between 18/6 and 12/12?
 
I have always put my plants on 36 hours of dark 3 different times in flowering, once when I transfer them from veg to flowering, once in the middle of flowering and once about a day or 2 before harvesting. A buddy of mine thought me this way and I have liked the results. It seems to help the plant mature quickly without sacrificing the quality of your medicine.

You can check my grow journal of my plants flowering...I just put pics up this morning.
 
If they are drooping that is a sign of over watering. The leaves will almost be pointing Straight up in the air if they are thirsty.

I'd say that's a bit misleading, I think most people upon reading that would take it to mean the leaves were literally pointing straight up towards the lights. Plants droop whether they're over or underwatered but they droop differently. The only thing that stands "straight up in the air" is the edges of the leafs, often described as "cupping".

Jamn...there's a good picture of an overwatered plant and an underwatered plant in the link I previously provided. It's towards the bottom after you get past the nutrient descriptions.
 
I have always put my plants on 36 hours of dark 3 different times in flowering, once when I transfer them from veg to flowering, once in the middle of flowering and once about a day or 2 before harvesting. A buddy of mine thought me this way and I have liked the results. It seems to help the plant mature quickly without sacrificing the quality of your medicine.

You can check my grow journal of my plants flowering...I just put pics up this morning.

Interesting...I've never heard of this technique before. What is the reasoning behind it? Have you compared the yields on the same strain grown the same way but one without the 3 36 hour dark periods? I put mine in to total darkness for at least 24 hours when switching over to flowering but that's it...I know some do 24-36 hours of darkness the "night" before they harvest as well, but haven't heard of doing it in the middle of the cycle. I don't really understand how another dark period in the middle of the cycle would make it mature any faster. Can you shed some more light on this please? :)

There is a strange light cycle that has been scientifically proven to increase yields a bit but it requires a seven-day digital timer, not just a standard mechanical or digital timer. It's in the "Everything you wanted to know about growing MJ" sticky thread...
 
Interesting...I've never heard of this technique before. What is the reasoning behind it? Have you compared the yields on the same strain grown the same way but one without the 3 36 hour dark periods? I put mine in to total darkness for at least 24 hours when switching over to flowering but that's it...I know some do 24-36 hours of darkness the "night" before they harvest as well, but haven't heard of doing it in the middle of the cycle. I don't really understand how another dark period in the middle of the cycle would make it mature any faster. Can you shed some more light on this please? :)

There is a strange light cycle that has been scientifically proven to increase yields a bit but it requires a seven-day digital timer, not just a standard mechanical or digital timer. It's in the "Everything you wanted to know about growing MJ" sticky thread...

To be honest, I have never done a side by side comparison, but I am going off of my friend's opinion. My friend described a grow as, "you are playing god and you are making the plant work hard for it to become its fullest. A plant is just like a human, the harder the work the more sleep you need."

The first 36 hour cycle, I don't notice anything, I am just getting them used to the HPS. The 2nd cycle I had noticed the difference in the way the buds had gotten more dense. The 3rd cycle the trichs seem get a jump start to finish. I will start the 3rd cycle when are 75% milky and about 25% clear (it is all in preference on when to do it). I like the clear-minded high. After the 3rd light cycle, I will have all milky with 5 or less percent amber.

I know light cycles are 1 thing you ask 10 different growers about, you will hear 10 different methods. Maybe a side by side test will be in the near future...:reading420magazine:
 
Tomorrow will complete 4 weeks of veg. On Thursday 4/1/10, I took 14 clones for my parents and trimmed up the bottom of the plants to improve air circulation in anticipation for flower cycle. As stated in the cab build thread, I made 2 of my boxes, 1 for me and 1 for my parents (all are Medical users). Since this strain has a relatively short flower period, I think we will be able to keep a cycle going. Take clones 1 week before flower, while I flower, my parents grow clones until rooted for 1-2 weeks and then veg for 4. Then take clones from theirs while I harvest, dry in the box and then sterilize the box for the clones from my parents. I think we will do this a few times until we really get a handle on caring for the plants.

I am still battling the watering problem, those 4" tall RW cubes are killing me. The plants go from under watered to over watered. I honestly don't have high hopes for this harvest. I think my parents will have a much easier time just sticking the 1 1/2" RW cubes in the hydroton, or even the normal size 2 1/2" tall 3" RW. Just not sure if the 1 1/2" have enough support for the plants in the hydroton? Any ideas? Anyhow, yesterday morning they were pretty badly under watered (almost thought I was going to lose 1 or 2). I gave them a good watering, and last night they looked great. This morning, they were over watered droopy. Back and forth!

They are still growing, with the 3 biggest pushing past 10" yesterday! I will be switching to 12/12 tomorrow night!

BTW, finally found 29% H2O2 at the local hydro store and after adding 2 tbsp to my 20 gal res, the res looks fantastic. All the gunk that accumulates at the water level is gone, no floaties, still smells a tiny bit like a fish tank, but overall the res looks like I just cleaned it yesterday.

Here are 2 pics from this morning, wish I would have taken some last night they looked so much better. Also forgot to set camera to pre-set mode for taking under hps, so sorry for the yellow.
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Started flower on Tuesday. I decided to go straight to 12/12 from 18/6, and next time I will try 24 hours of dark in between for comparison. They have been looking much better lately. They are also growing better, 1.5" in the last day and a half.

Here are some pics.
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A tad droopy on some of the leaves, but much better than before.
 
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