Michigan MM - Super Lemon Haze - From Seed

[Jack Dos]

I did just a light misting when I added more lady beetles today. I don't usually water, but it was just a light misting. At least, that's what the directions said to do =\


I do occasionally do a misting, but only because i read that its ok, as long as you have good air circulation (I have outdoor air, coming into the closet.) So, always new air. Also, you have to have low humidity. (I have about 20-30%). With temp going to 74 at night, and 84 during the day. I only mist once a week, max about 2 times a week.

Let me know if this is ok, or if what I read was a lie! lol. Thank you 420 and all for helping, we're all growing this together!

 

[Truth Seeker]

as far as I know, any kind of watering is bad directly on the plants, I know for an outdoor situation you would want to shake off all the excessive moisture that builds up after a rain storm!!! but i know that any kind of excessive moisture inside the buds is bad!!! but lets hope for the best for you my brotha!!! sending POSITIVE vibes your way!!!

 

[Jack Dos]

Well I dont "water" it lol. Its literally a mist. Barley even visible to the eye. But nonetheless, I'm not going to mist anymore =D. And I do shake the excess water off. I proly piss the girls off, feels like im shaking the shit out of them lol.

But, as per 420 and others said, Im going to stop misting and do it without.

- Grey mould thrives under cool, wet condition and often establishes on dying tissues. It produces masses of dry spores called conidia that are air-borne. Spores are readily dispersed by wind (air currents), over-head irrigation or sprays, tools (particularly pruning shears & knives), machinery and workers. An epidemic situation can happen from air-borne spores that can infect soft tissues, cut-wounds and blossoms when moisture is present.
- Botrytis spores can remain dormant for 10 to 12 weeks within leaf scars made at pruning. Such spores can be triggered to germinate by low light, plant stress or shift in fruit load. Spores germinate and penetrate the plant surface within 5 to 8 hours on wet/moist plant surfaces at the optimum temperature of 15-20°C.(59F-68F) A new infection can produce visible symptoms and masses of spores (conidia) within a few days, thus a multiple cycles of infection can be expected in a given growing season.

So, being as that its not cold, or staying wet for longer than (less than) 1 hour am I ok? You now just got me worried =P

 

[Truth Seeker]

i've been worried since I saw the photo!!! LOL, what I did in the rain one time was that I took a papertowel to the nugs, and got most of the moisture out, the paper towel was all wet!!!

 

[Jack Dos]

I just looked with my loop and seen moisture but no bad stuff. I've been misting them for about 3 weeks, and you know I check them daily. I haven't seen anything bad, just great growth. But now, I'm deff changing this habit. You've got me redic scared, you and the google pics I just seen. =(

Hopefully I dont get this! But like I said, I've been doing this 3+ weeks. But today I'm done. GUH!

- anyway, I just figured it rains outside... so... why not in my garden =(

 

[Jack Dos]

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency. If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted.. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. If not, go to #4.

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. If not, keep reading…

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency. If not, go to #6.

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. If not, go to #7.

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). If not, go to #8…

8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). If not, go to #9.

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. If not, go to #10...

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. If not, #11.

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. If not, #12.

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. If not, #13.

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. If not…

14) You may just have a weak plant.

 

[Jack Dos]

Fertilizing Your Organic Garden
Organic fertilizers generally come from plants, animals, or minerals. Soil organisms break down the material into nutrients that plants can use. Some organic fertilizers contain significant amounts of only one of the major nutrients, such as phosphorus in bone meal, but they often have trace amounts of many other beneficial nutrients. In addition, some gardeners add organic material that improves soil structure and supports soil microorganisms, which helps make nutrients available more quickly, especially in warm weather when they are more active. As a general rule, organic fertilizers release about half their nutrients in the first season and continue to feed the soil over subsequent years.

Plant-based fertilizers
Fertilizers made from plants generally have low to moderate N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) values, but their nutrients quickly become available in the soil for your plants to use. Some of them even provide an extra dose of trace minerals and micronutrients. If you don't find all of these at the garden center, check out your local feed store. The most commonly available plant-based fertilizers include the following:

Alfalfa meal: Derived from alfalfa plants and pressed into a pellet form, alfalfa meal is beneficial for adding nitrogen and potassium (about 2 percent each), as well as trace minerals and growth stimulants. Roses, in particular, seem to like this fertilizer and benefit from up to 5 cups of alfalfa meal per plant every ten weeks, worked into the soil. Add it to your compost pile to speed up the process.
Compost: Compost is mostly beneficial for adding organic matter to the soil. It doesn't add much in the way of fertilizer nutrients itself, but it does enhance and help make available any nutrients in the soil.

Kelp/seaweed: Derived from sea plants, you can find this product offered in liquid, powder, or pellet form. Although containing only small amounts of N-P-K fertilizer, kelp meal adds valuable micronutrients, growth hormones, and vitamins that can help increase yields, reduce the plant stress from drought, and increase frost tolerance. Apply it to the soil or as a foliar spray.
Soybean meal: Derived from soybeans and used in a pellet form, soybean meal is prized for its high nitrogen (7 percent) content and as a source of phosphorous (2 percent). Like alfalfa meal, it is particularly beneficial to nitrogen-loving plants, such as roses.

Humus: When looking at organic fertilizer products, you'll invariably come across those containing humus, humic acid, or humates. Some of these products have almost magical claims as to what they can do for your plants. Humus, humates, and humic acids are organic compounds often found in compost. Humus is touted to increase soil microbial activity, improve soil structure, and enhance root development of plants. These products have no fertilizer value, but rather are used as stimulants to support soil microbial life that, in turn, support the plants. Use them as supplements, but not to replace proper soil building and nutrition.

Animal-based fertilizers
Whether by land, by air, or by sea, animals, fish, and birds all provide organic fertilizers that can help plants grow. Most animal-based fertilizers provide lots of nitrogen, which plants need for leafy growth. The following are some of the most commonly available ones:

Manures (I Don't Use): Animal manures provide lots of organic matter to the soil, but most have low nutrient value. A few, such as chicken manure, do have high available nitrogen content, but should only be used composted because the fresh manure can burn the roots of tender seedlings.
Bat/seabird guano: Yes, this is what it sounds like — the poop from bats and seabirds. It comes in powdered or pellet form and is actually high in nitrogen (10 to 12 percent). Bat guano only provides about 2 percent phosphorous and no potassium, but seabird guano contains 10 to 12 percent P, plus 2 percent K. The concentrated nitrogen in these products can burn young plants if not used carefully. They tend to be more expensive than land-animal manures.

Blood meal: This is the powdered blood from slaughtered animals. It contains about 14 percent nitrogen and many micronutrients. Leafy, nitrogen-loving plants, such as lettuce, grow well with this fertilizer. It also reportedly repels deer, but may attract dogs and cats.
Bone meal: A popular source of phosphorous (11 percent) and calcium (22 percent), bone meal is derived from animal or fish bones and commonly used in a powdered form on root crops and bulbs. It also contains 2 percent nitrogen and many micronutrients. It may attract rodents.

Fish products (I Use Alaskan Fish Fertilizer): Fish by-products make excellent fertilizers. You can buy them in several different forms. Fish emulsion is derived from fermented remains of fish. This liquid product can have a fishy smell (even the deodorized version), but it's a great complete fertilizer (5-2-2) and adds trace elements to the soil. When mixed with water, it is gentle, yet effective for stimulating the growth of young seedlings. Hydrolyzed fish powder has higher nitrogen content (12 percent) and is mixed with water and sprayed on plants. Fish meal is high in nitrogen and phosphorus and is applied to the soil. Some products blend fish with seaweed or kelp for added nutrition and growth stimulation.

Mineral-based fertilizers
Rocks decompose slowly into soil, releasing minerals gradually over a period of years. Organic gardeners use many different minerals to increase the fertility of their soils, but it's a long-term proposition. Some take months or years to fully break down into nutrient forms that plants can use, so one application may last a long time.

Greensand: Mined in New Jersey from 70 million-year-old marine deposits, greensand contains 3 percent potassium and many micronutrients. It's sold in a powdered form, but breaks down slowly so is used to build the long-term reserves of soil potassium.

Gypsum: This powdered mineral contains calcium (20 percent) and sulfur (15 percent). It's used to add calcium to soils without raising the soil pH.

Hard-rock phosphate (Don't Use - Use Soft): This mineral powder contains 20 percent phosphorous and 48 percent calcium, which can raise soil pH — avoid it if your soil is already alkaline. It breaks down slowly, so use it to build the long-term supply of phosphorous in your soils.

Soft-rock phosphate: Often called colloidal phosphate, soft-rock phosphate contains less phosphorus (16 percent) and calcium (19 percent) than hard-rock phosphate, but the nutrients are in chemical forms that plants can use more easily. This powder breaks down slowly, so one application may last for years in the soil. It also contains many micronutrients.

Limestone (Don't Use): This mined product has various nutrient levels, depending on its source. It's used primarily to raise pH, but dolomitic limestone, which is high in calcium (46 percent) and magnesium (38 percent), also adds magnesium to the soil. This powder also comes in an easier to spread granular form. Calcitic limestone is high in calcium carbonate (usually above 90 percent). Conduct a soil test for pH and for magnesium to find out which kind of lime and how much to add to your soil.

 

[Jack Dos]

Made a soil mix today for clones (altFour's el natural / organic mix) -
[THIS MIX IS HIGHLY ORGANIC MATTER. MUST USE PREDATORY INSECTS OR YOU WILL HAVE A CRAP LOAD OF FUNGUS GNATS!! (witch cause root knot and annoyance) ]

In a sealed tub mix =

60% of Cocogrow / Used 1 Bag Botanicare Cocogrow Buy 1 get 1 free. $25.00ea:
[Used instead of soil because soil ranges in pH and chemicals. Coco contains great air/water ratio. It's 100% organic/biodegradable. Also, VERY LOW SALT!]

Glacial Rock Dust 5% / Used 1/5 bag - Gaia Green Glacial Rock Dust 50lb bag $19.99:
[Used for its key soil elements, reversing soil depletion. Excellent source of readily available calcium, iron, magnesium and potassium pluce trace elements and micronutrients. Increases phosphorous availability and improves CEC.]

Rock Dust 5% / Used 1/2 bag - Agrowinn-Minerals 5lb bag $8.00:
[Used for its trace minerals. It also brings the nutrients to the soil root zone where they are needed. With dry or wet foliar application during the first three quarters of the growing period, you can correct many nutrient deficiencies. The microbes also convert the minerals in Agrowinn into humus, and a deeper humus means better absorption of carbon dioxide from the air.]

Alaskan Humus 10% General Organics Ancient Forest / Used 1 bag - 14.1L bag $15.95:
[Used for its enrichment water soluble constituents including cellulose and hemicellulose; as the residues are deposited and break down, humin, lignin and lignin complexes accumulate within the soil; as microorganisms live and feed on the decaying plant matter, an increase in proteins occurs.]

Powder Seaweed 1% / Used 3 Bag(s) - 10.7oz ea Maxicorp Soluble Powder Seaweed $20.66:
[Use this because it contains all soil nutrients (0.3% N, 0.1% P, 1.0% K, plus a full range of trace elements) and amino acids. DO NOT USE TOO MUCH, as seaweed does contain a lot of salt content. This is another reason coco was used, so it balances out as to regular soil with high salt., although flushing is still required)

Alfalfa Meal 1% / Used 1/3 box - Dr. Earth 3lb box $7.99:
[Used as an organic fertilizer, utilizing microbacteria to break down and produce heat that accelerates the decomposition of the minerals within the meal. Rhizobacteria activity further dissolves the nutrients, making them more readily available for use by the plant. It also contains Vitamin A, Folic Acid, Thiamin, Riboflavin, Pantothenic Acid, Niacin
Tricontanol, a natural occurring growth hormone.]

Bone Meal 1% / Used 1/3 of a bag - Marical Grow 3lb bag $5.57:
[Used as a source of phosphorus and calcium. Also, when enough calcium is present it prevents rot with proper and regular watering. Also, makes it easier on roots for transplanting.]

Blood Meal 1% / Used 1/3 of a bag - Marical Grow 3lb bag $5.57:
[Used as a high-nitrogen fertilizer and a high protein. Also, used to start composition.]

Insect Frass 1% / Used 1/4 of a bag - Organic Nutrients / OnFrass.com 2lb brown paper bag $26.95:
[Used as a natural bloom stimulant, and has high nutrient levels. It is known to have amoeba, beneficial bacteria, and fungi content.It is a microbial inoculant, also known as a soil inoculant, that promotes plant health using beneficial microbes. It is a large nutrient contributor to the rainforest, and it can often be seen in leaf mines.]

Course Builders Sand 10% /Used 1/4 - Quickcrete Course All Purpose Sand 50lb bag $2.98:
[Used for soil amendments as excellent drainage characteristics. Try to find non-ocean used sand as they contain high amounts of salt.]

5% Vermicompost with red worms / Used 1 bag - Veteran Compost (Aberdeen, Maryland) 2-5lb bags $8.00+Shipping = $36.00:
[Used for enriching soil with micro-organisms (adding enzymes such as phosphate and cellulose)
Microbial activity in worm castings is 10 to 20 times higher than in the soil and organic matter that the worm ingests, also improves water holding capacity. ]

1500 Lady beetles - $12.00
[Used for their feeding capabilities. Thrive on small bodied insects and larvae such as fungus gnats and spider mites.]

50,000 Nematodes - $20.00
[Used for their feeding capabilities. Thrive on larvae of small bodied insects such as fungus gnats.]

 

[Jack Dos]

altFour's Watering Solution (Tha Mixx) =

In 1gal Mix =

2Tb of Fish Fertilizer - Alaska Fish Fertilizer 32oz/2lbs $6.98:
[Used for its great plant Micronutrients. Breads down and releases soil enhancing Micronutrients.]

2Tb of Molasses - Wholesome Sweeteners Organic Molasses 16oz $5.49:
[Used to promote microbial activity. Also, a great source of potassium calcium and iron.]

300mg Vitamin B-1 (thiamin) - Nature Made B-1 (100 tablets) $4.79:
[Used for its natural ability to give all living organisms things they need. Everything living uses thiamine in their biochemistry, but it is only synthesized in bacteria, fungi, and plants. You can pay upwards to 100+ dollars for things that contain just B-1 as their main ingredient such as thrive alive B-1.]

1 Cap full of Liquid Seaweed+Iron (Contains Norwegian kelp)- Maxicorp Liquid Seaweed + Iron 35oz $10.95 + 30% off!:
[Used for as a potential source of bioethanol. It also has no harmful effects on seedlings, and reduces stress during transplants. Also, has Norwegian kelp (Ascophyllum Nodosum) Used for its combination of both macronutrient, (eg. N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S) and micronutrients (eg. Mn, Cu, Fe, Zn, etc). It also host to cytokinins, auxin-like gibberellins, betaines, mannitol, organic acids, polysaccharides, amino acids, and proteins which are all very beneficial and widely used in agriculture. Thus why thrive alive and other bloom boosters contain kelp ]

Fill the remainder with TAP WATER.
[Used for its balance of 6.8-7.0pH balance. You may also use rain water.]


SHAKE WELL, KEEP AT 50-80F.

 

[Jack Dos]

As seen here, we HAVE A DEFICIENCY! YAY!

Due to the leaves going down at the tips. We can see that there is a.....

That's right! If you guessed salt build up, your absolutely correct! Also, over watering can be an issue when these signs are present. Wait 2 days, no watering. Then flush with clean water with a neutral pH balance.

 

[Jack Dos]

Well I dont know if anyone is following this, but here are some pictures.. Need to know when to harvest, if im close or not. I know they look kind of amber but I still think I have about 3-5 days. But, who knows.. im just comparing pictures.

Took Some Clones:

Super Lemon Haze Flowering (x40):

PLEASE!!!! I NEED YOUR COMMENTS AND FEEDBACK PEOPLE!

 

[Jack Dos]

SUPER LEMON HAZE

 

[Jack Dos]

Is This Asking Too Much?

 

[Les Doodess]

Hey bud. I would wait a few days. Maybe even 10. Depends really on how much CBD you want. It would be very cerebral at this point, waiting for amber will tone that down and knock you out.

Take a tester bud from the bottom and dry it out.

 

[Jack Dos]

Hey bud. I would wait a few days. Maybe even 10. Depends really on how much CBD you want. It would be very cerebral at this point, waiting for amber will tone that down and knock you out.

Take a tester bud from the bottom and dry it out.

I'll keep posting updates of the change. So we can pick the best day to taste her...

 

[Twelve12]

SLH can take up to 10 weeks to finish. I've looked at your journal log you got 7 weeks down, so looks like 3 more to go. It can finish before that so look closely at the trichomes for dark ambers not light ambers. You can harvest at week 8-9 but the plant gain more THC in the final week. You can start flushing after a week so there's a good 2 weeks of plain water. Treat SLH well in the last few weeks it will blow you away with the flavors.

 

[Jack Dos]

SLH can take up to 10 weeks to finish. I've looked at your journal log you got 7 weeks down, so looks like 3 more to go. It can finish before that so look closely at the trichomes for dark ambers not light ambers. You can harvest at week 8-9 but the plant gain more THC in the final week. You can start flushing after a week so there's a good 2 weeks of plain water. Treat SLH well in the last few weeks it will blow you away with the flavors.

Thank you twelve. I didnt even know how far along I was, I was keeping track then got lost somewhere along the way due to unexpected matters.

Ill keep posting pictures of the trichomes so we can look at the progress together. Thank you guys so much for your help.

 

[Jack Dos]

Lost two mothers. - Green Crack.

Green Crack mothers have died. Due to taking clones and quick transplanting stress (from what I believe). Will know more when I take a look at the roots. Pictures will come soon.

 

[Jack Dos]

 

[Truth Seeker]

damn dude, sorry for you losses!!! hope those clones make it!!!