pH in Organic Super Soil, how exactly does it work?

[DexterC]

Hi everyone!

I have 2 girls in an 2.6x2.6 (80x80 cm), they might look healthy at the first sight, and overall it's not bad, but I struggle with a stubborn Potassium deficiency for a few weeks already. It's mild and progressing really slow, but it is there. After a bit of investigation, I discovered that my soil pH is above 7, 7.1 to 7.2 to be exact, so, it's out of wack.
Now, like always, there are just as many opinions as there are growers out there, some say you don't need to bother with pH when growing completely organic but that just doesn't seem to be the case. My reasoning is, just like in nature different soils got different pH levels due to their composition and the way I see it, even if bacteria can somehow buffer the pH to some extent, it does not seem that they are able to work wonders as rumored.
I've tested the water, which I was not pH adjusting and it was around 7.2 to 7.4 at 22-23C or around 71-73F and I am thinking that this might be why my pH is high so I reason that using a few drops of lemon juice should drop the pH but if it was that clear I would not be asking.
What I am worried of, is that even if I lower the water pH in my water for the future, it could be that the soil composition is the problem and the bacteria will just bring it back up, in which case, I would need to actually amend the soil with something acidic to keep the pH low.
What do you think boys and girls? Would watering with a lower pH be enough to solve this issue? Or should I find an amendment that is lower in pH and top-dress with that?

This is my soil recipe:
Base: 70% Peat Moss & 30% Coco-Coir
The mix: 60% Base, 30% compost, 10% worm castings
I've added: about 80-100g crushed pellets of Cow Manure, Bone meal & Fish, Blood & Bone as amendments
Eyeballed the amount of Perlite, should be around 15-20% of the whole mix.

Setup & Environmental Conditions:
Tent: HydroShoot 80x80cm or 2.6x2.6ft
Lights: Viparspectra P2000 dimmed to 50% and hung at about 1m (3.2 ft) from the canopy.
Temps: 22-24C or 71-75F
RH: 55% - 65%

Water Analysis:

The Severity of the deficiency:

The girls today:

What do you think guys, what should I do?

 

[Emilya Green]

Hi @DexterC!
First, your organic supersoil recipe looks like it has left out a few things but more importantly, you didn't mention cooking (composting) that soil for a month or two before using it. This means that all your good amendments are not going to be available to your plant... your soil wasn't ready for use.

PH being high, up near 7, is exactly where you want it to be and by using dolomite lime, I would purposely make my soil's base pH at the same point. I am sure this is not your problem. To do things right, when adjusting pH is necessary, ie, when using synthetic nutes, your goal would be to adjust your fluids to 6.3 pH and then allow your soil to drift the pH upwards, toward pH 7 as it dried. This allows you to move through the entire pH range after each watering, using the soil as the tool that makes that happen.

Your plants don't look too bad. That leaf damage down low could be several things, but at this stage in the grow I suspect magnesium more than anything. The leaf damage around the edges looks like potassium, and this could be because of the uncooked soil not allowing the K to get to the plants. You might try some banana peel boiled in water to give you a K boost. Try some organic calmag to see if it helps clear up the magnesium deficiency.

 

[DexterC]

Hi @DexterC!
First, your organic supersoil recipe looks like it has left out a few things but more importantly, you didn't mention cooking (composting) that soil for a month or two before using it. This means that all your good amendments are not going to be available to your plant... your soil wasn't ready for use.

PH being high, up near 7, is exactly where you want it to be and by using dolomite lime, I would purposely make my soil's base pH at the same point. I am sure this is not your problem. To do things right, when adjusting pH is necessary, ie, when using synthetic nutes, your goal would be to adjust your fluids to 6.3 pH and then allow your soil to drift the pH upwards, toward pH 7 as it dried. This allows you to move through the entire pH range after each watering, using the soil as the tool that makes that happen.

Your plants don't look too bad. That leaf damage down low could be several things, but at this stage in the grow I suspect magnesium more than anything. The leaf damage around the edges looks like potassium, and this could be because of the uncooked soil not allowing the K to get to the plants. You might try some banana peel boiled in water to give you a K boost. Try some organic calmag to see if it helps clear up the magnesium deficiency.

Thanks for your quick reply Emilya, the reason I did not mention cooking is because the compost is supposed to be ready to use. The manure has also been cooked and compressed into dry pellets about half inch size, also ready to use, which I then crushed into a powder to increase surface area and speed up decomposition. Similar case with the amendments, the manufacturer recommends applying every 4-6 weeks as they also come into a powder.

Here is what the manufacturer says:

EDIT: The actual NPK ratio when used in soil is 3 - 3.9 - 0 for Bone Meal and 3 - 3.8 - 2.5 for Fish, Blood and Bone. The advertised values are for compound fertilizers. They mention this on the side of the box.

Also I am thinking... if the soil was not ready, then I should get bigger issues. This was them on 11 February, about 17 days ago when they were transplanted.

Back then I still had the Potassium deficiency and I assumed that would go away when transplanted, but that stayed through, progressing slowly, more apparent in the case of the bigger one.
At this point I am quite confused. If pH is not the issue, the nutrients I'd imagine they are ok, otherwise I figure I'd see all sorts of deficiencies, could it be I have a nutrient lockout of some sort instead?

 

[Emilya Green]

could it be I have a nutrient lockout of some sort instead?

It could be, definitely. There is a certain NPK that is considered to be the correct balance for our plants. By adding the raw nutrients as you have, there is no telling what your actual NPK is in that soil. If there is a lockout, it is probably due to this imbalance. Also consider that your nutes are coming in all together in a fairly even mix, but your plant is not using them proportionately, so it is likely that some of the elements are building up in the soil, thereby causing a lockout.

 

[DexterC]

It could be, definitely. There is a certain NPK that is considered to be the correct balance for our plants. By adding the raw nutrients as you have, there is no telling what your actual NPK is in that soil. If there is a lockout, it is probably due to this imbalance. Also consider that your nutes are coming in all together in a fairly even mix, but your plant is not using them proportionately, so it is likely that some of the elements are building up in the soil, thereby causing a lockout.

I believe I understand but can you please clarify what do you mean by raw nutrients?
Today it's time to water them so I'll pH my water to 7 and I am thinking let some run-off, then perform some tests on that and check what is going on in the soil in terms of PPM and pH. If the PPM is off the charts, I probably isolated the issue. Worst case I'll reuse that water next time. What do you think, would that make sense? Many people swear you should not allow run-off, that is why I am asking.

 

[Emilya Green]

I believe I understand but can you please clarify what do you mean by raw nutrients?
Today it's time to water them so I'll pH my water to 7 and I am thinking let some run-off, then perform some tests on that and check what is going on in the soil in terms of PPM and pH. If the PPM is off the charts, I probably isolated the issue. Worst case I'll reuse that water next time. What do you think, would that make sense? Many people swear you should not allow run-off, that is why I am asking.

You are combining methods... if you are going organic, don't do those things that synthethic growers do. You have no need to produce runoff which sweeps your powdered nutrient right out of there... organic doesn't produce leftover salts that need to be flushed out, so water up to the point of runoff, and then stop.
If you were insisting on the need to pH adjust, 7 is NOT where to do it. Soil should be set to 7, but never your fluids. If you just pH your fluids, then go to 6.3 pH, the point where the most nutrients are mobile. In an organic grow, you are just wasting your time... ph 7 will act just like pH 5.5... the plants will not care.
PPM and pH of runoff means absolutely nothing in soil. No matter what reading you get, I will tell you that it is meaningless and to stop wasting your time.
I am glad you are asking for some common sense before doing these things, but I have to ask... where are you getting all of this?

 

[Dwight Monk]

I am glad you are asking for some common sense before doing these things, but I have to ask... where are you getting all of this?

There are some FB groups where all the diff advice given would melt your brain no matter which sides point of view you fell into on any particular growing subject . But yes one sees a lot of advice given but wrong medium for that said advice, coupled with the folks trying to do both soil and non soil medium same pot thinking they can do best of both worlds. Throw in my favorite "parroting something they heard but have no first hand experience to base it on" and you got a great big misinformation party going on

 

[bluter]

the folks trying to do both soil and non soil medium same pot thinking they can do best of both worlds

there's a lot of crappy promises being made by nute companies selling systems claiming 'organic' - when the grow style is not at all or worse - some frankenhybrid. see a lot of uk/euro guys in this dilemma.

 

[bobrown14]

@DexterC your soil pH will not be an issue if in fact that is your soil pH.

Also lets step back to your first post a sec.

You mentioned soil pH being 7.0 - 7.3pH This is not an issue.

Stay with me for a sec.

How are we measuring your soil pH to come up with that pH?? If its not tested in a lab you're guessing at best.

You mention you're "base" is mostly peat moss. Peat moss is very acidic so that right there has me skeptical on your actual soil pH. Extremely skeptical and very unlikely.

There are only a few ways to measure soil pH accurately - one and the only one dependable is in a soil lab. The other, a slurry test and you need a kit for that and also use distilled water. IF you're not using distilled water and a soil pH kit you're guessing.

Your plants look fine. I dont see any deficiencies. Probably the only deficit is lack of soil.

When those plants get larger they are going to need more soil.

The only way I could tell from your pics there was/is an issue would be I ran that specific cultivar several rounds and could tell by experience there's something off.

I thinking that this may be your first organic soil run??

The most important thing for your organic soil is the microbes.

I grow fungi and microbes with cannabis plants and cover crops. Think living soil and then you wont worry so much about nutrients and deficits which is how folks that grow with synthetic fertilizers grow.

IF I think there's something slightly off with a plant I get out some fish emulsion and dilute heavily with water and water in OR make a EWC (worm casting and kelp meal) tea and water that in. I might do that 1x or 2x in 60 day flower cycle.

You soil mix is light on amendments - is that a soil recipe you found somewhere??

Also what are we adding for your microbes?

The manure has some but they are not the best for plants since cows use anaerobic bacteria to break down plant material then poop it out. There's a microbe population change that has to take place during the composting process. That and the dry compost.... might be ok but I prefer the fresh stuff and only use that on veggie gardens in early spring. Gives the proper microbes a chance to take over from the anaerobic ones from the cow's gut.

And fer sure the microbes along with the plant exudate will fer sure regulate the soil pH in the rhizosphere. Its how the plants grow and feed specific microbes so that the plant uptakes what she needs.

Plant root exudate pH changes = grows/promotes different microbes to break down different nutrients the plants need.

This is a natural process about the only thing we gardeners can do is be sure we introduce enough raw materials for the microbes and the plants will do their thing and the microbes will do the heavy lifting.

Also the reason I asked about you soil recipe is as @Emilya mentioned you're missing some crucial amendments. One of them is minerals like rock dusts. Think clay particles.
This is a must have in organic soil. Clay particles are the fuel source for the soil. The break down chemically into soluble nutrients - CEC or cation exchange capacity of you soil is crucial.

Clay particles - soil organic matter feeds the microbes - microbes break down clay particles releasing soluble nutrients for plant uptake.

Thats the fast and dirty process.

Feed the soil - the soil feeds the plants.

You need a proper soil mix starting out.

 

[DexterC]

@Emilya & @bobrown14 let me clarify about pH... there are some reputable growers on YouTube that seem to care quite a bit about their pH which is what drove me to the idea. MrCannucksGrow, explains his way to go about pH and he always pH adjusts his water below 7 in supersoil. Granted, his water quality isn't so great, but if bacteria doesn't care about pH and will buffer anyway, so long the water is dechlorinated, why is he bothering at all then? Is that a waste of time on his end?



Also if you search google you can find all sorts of opinions, some say just like you, no need to worry about pH if your soil is good, bacteria will buffer and on the other hand, others seem to worry quite a bit and reported problems that were fixed after addessing the pH.

@bobrown14 I tested my pH using distilled water. I grabed 2 cups, one was 1/3 soil and 2/3 distilled water, the other was half and half and I read the pH of those. I also have an analog pH soil tester and I compared the results of all 3 tests. From average, and accounting for errors I concluded the pH is above 7 as all tests indicated so. The pH test pen I used for the water tests is this one and since I did not pay 15€ for it, I feel I can trust it to some extent.

Regarding the soil mix, I bought what was available at the time locally. Malta just legalized growing weed for personal use, at the time I bought them, there were no shops selling quality amendments tailored for this, I had to use what I found. I imported worm castings because I couldn't find any and delivery from US to Europe ain't cheap.
Guano, kelp meal and minerals only appeared recently and still not all available and I was thinking on changing the mix on the next transplant anyway.

The whole purpose of this is for me to learn the basics of organics, the bare minimum a plant needs to thrive, then build on that in my own way and add other good stuff. I am just experimenting so I don't want to add dozens of things or follow some recipe because then, figuring out what does what and what I need to change or add will be hard. There are many, many ways to do this as far as I can tell, everyone says you must have this or you must have that, but the way I see it everyone does it different in some way or another. I will find my own.

What I needed to understand is the pH thing and if that is likely to be the problem, and if so, how to adress it if that is the case, which it doesn't seem to be. The soil mix is far from perfect and certainly can and will be improved. I initially excluded the problem of lack of nutrients because the plants are growing at a fair pace and the defficiency has been there for a few weeks. I've seen it apearing in both plants more than 3 weeks ago and so far only the first 2 sets of leaves have been affected. It's like sometimes it cannot absorb or doesn't have the nutrients and starts pulling from the leaves, but I assumed if the nutrient wouldn't be available at all, I'd see this progressing far quicker. Maybe I am comparing too much with synthetics, but if the soil was lacking that completely, I should see them more hungry. Instead they behave like they have a constant suply, but it's not enough.

Now based on all you said guys, I'll throw the pH idea down the trash for now, I've looked at some pics online, if I were to have a pH imballance, they would have been far from that green and/or wierd defficiencies would show. I did not pH my water so far, I'll stick to your advice and leave it alone.
I'll go brew a tea and find some emulsion or seaweed extract and check how they respond, then I'll go to the store and buy proper amendments if that is the case and top-dress until they get bigger for transplant. Thanks guys!

 

[bluter]

don't chase ph. it's your inputs that matter. not the run off. make sure your input ph is correct and don't worry about the latter.

the internet is riddled with failed grows where the grower got in to a little trouble and starting chasing run off ph.

edit : from what i see you shouldn't need to bother with ph at all.

 

[DexterC]

don't chase ph. it's your inputs that matter. not the run off. make sure your input ph is correct and don't worry about the latter.

the internet is riddled with failed grows where the grower got in to a little trouble and starting chasing run off ph.

edit : from what i see you shouldn't need to bother with ph at all.

One thing less to care about then. Thanks man!

 

[bluter]

One thing less to care about then. Thanks man!

by that i mean you should probably ph the water for feedings and any amendments you add. i'm looking to see if you had lime added to neutralize the media.


i would listen to @Emilya
the soil needed to be cooked for a while.

in the future you need to choose a path. it looks like you should read up on how to build a soil. there are several growers here who do it and a few proven recipes. i would look to those growers and their journals.

search for clackamas coots recipe to start. it is very well known and there are even commercial versions.

 

[bobrown14]

One thing less to care about then. Thanks man!

pH of your input water is important in small containers in soil. Keep it at 6.7pH-7.0pH.

Dont go below that.

You're growing in small containers and will need to up can soon.

I still dont see any deficiency so not sure what you are seeing.

Can wild source some inputs like EWC - go to the woods and look around old fallen limbs there will be worms and castings there and thats the best amendment you can use.

 

[SmokingWings]

Regarding 'cooking' the soil mix I am not sure that it needs to sit and rest for as long as some think. Probably only a week or two should be sufficient. Lately I have been letting the compost component sit for several weeks which seems to be long enough for the microbe colonies to start breaking down some of the organic material. Then when the soil is mixed the micro-organisms can start working on the amendments.

This is my soil recipe:
Base: 70% Peat Moss & 30% Coco-Coir
The mix: 60% Base, 30% compost, 10% worm castings
I've added: about 80-100g crushed pellets of Cow Manure, Bone meal & Fish, Blood & Bone as amendments
Eyeballed the amount of Perlite, should be around 15-20% of the whole mix.

A suggestion is to change how you think of the recipe. Instead of using percentages switch to a consistent measuring unit by volume. We often see reference to mixing together 1 part of peat moss with 1 part compost and add in one part Perlite.

Example is that I use a 10 quart metal pail. Because it does not change I know that my base mix is always going to be the same. I know how many gallons of mix is available and can then add in the other ingredients by volume; as in adding 1/4 cup of Crab Shell Meal per gallon or 1/2 cup of Kelp Meal per gallon. It is a recipe and I cannot think of any cooking recipe that has the bulk ingredients measured by percentages and then says to measure the sugar, salt and other ingredients by the fraction of a cup or tablespoon. Incidentally that mentioned above is not my mix recipe, it is just an example.

My base mix is not the traditional but close. It is 1 part Peat Moss, 2 parts aged Compost and 1 part Perlite. Remember the 10 quart pail? Once those 4 parts have been mixed I end up with 10 gallons of soil. Then the rest of the ingredients will be added in based on 10 gallons of the base mix.

Oh, my base mix is a great 'potting soil', much better than the potting soils I find in any gardening shop, grow shop or garden center at the big box stores. It has more 'ready to go' organic material and lasts 2 years for my house plants or flowering plants that I will have in pots on the porch, patio or around the back yard. It is an even better 'potting soil' after I add the amendments but I only add those when I mix up a batch for the Cannabis garden projects. The houseplants and hanging baskets can get by on the basics.

in the future you need to choose a path. it looks like you should read up on how to build a soil. there are several growers here who do it and a few proven recipes. i would look to those growers and their journals.

search for clackamas coots recipe to start. it is very well known and there are even commercial versions.

Also look up 'SubCool' or 'Sub Cool' who has similar recipes for building a supersoil.

 

[SmokingWings]

I still dont see any deficiency so not sure what you are seeing.

It is not easy but I found the leaf that looks like it could be what caught DexterC's attention. Inside the red circle.

 

[Emilya Green]

I built my Subcool supersoil recipe some years back and I made exactly this mistake.

Regarding 'cooking' the soil mix I am not sure that it needs to sit and rest for as long as some think. Probably only a week or two should be sufficient.

I think I waited 2 weeks before I started my first organic grow using that new soil. Everything seemed fine until the changeover from veg to bloom, and my plants started quickly dying. I ended up having to go back to synthetic nutes for the remainder of that run, because the ample calcium, potassium and phosphate that I had built into the soil, was not yet available to the plants. I added microbes galore via very well targeted AACTs, but that was not able to fix the problem. My soil needed to cook for 3 months... not 3 weeks. Time and time again I have seen this happen as people think they can rush the soil building process. The clakamous soil can be rushed a little more than this, but it is not as robust of a soil either. Take the time to cook your new soil... it really is worth the time.

 

[bobrown14]

It is not easy but I found the leaf that looks like it could be what caught DexterC's attention. Inside the red circle.

I get that a lot. Mostly when my VEG plants are in need of a new much larger home.

I try and look at the whole plant and not 1 leaf... I'd have quit growing if that bothered me enough to do something since likely what I would have done would have made things worse.

Could be as simple as that leaf isn't getting enough light so the plant decided to eat it up for its nutrients.

 

[SmokingWings]

I built my Subcool supersoil recipe some years back and I made exactly this mistake.


I think I waited 2 weeks before I started my first organic grow using that new soil. Everything seemed fine until the changeover from veg to bloom, and my plants started quickly dying. I ended up having to go back to synthetic nutes for the remainder of that run, because the ample calcium, potassium and phosphate that I had built into the soil, was not yet available to the plants. I added microbes galore via very well targeted AACTs, but that was not able to fix the problem. My soil needed to cook for 3 months... not 3 weeks. Time and time again I have seen this happen as people think they can rush the soil building process. The clakamous soil can be rushed a little more than this, but it is not as robust of a soil either. Take the time to cook your new soil... it really is worth the time.

Yes, I understand where you are coming from and it is a valid consideration. The way I look at it though is that after 2 weeks of 'cooking' and then the usual 4 to 8 weeks and sometimes more of vegetating the microbes and other micro-organisms should have had enough time to start breaking down the raw amendments that were added in.

I have noticed the same thing that my soils seemed to fall down as the plants make the switch from veg to the flowering stage. And we see it happening a lot in the questions asking for help with a grow. How many of those requests for help are 2 or 3 weeks after making the switch? Seems like most of them.

It has occurred to me that maybe some of the reason the soils are not ready on time is that the watering schedule was off kilter. Maybe the soils would be drying out often enough that the microbes, etc do not build up a large enough population on schedule. I noticed better growth going into flowering when I changed my lifting method to match the arthritis in my wrists.

I am curious if you built the SubCool's Supersoil you mentioned before or after you started putting together the 'watering a potted plant' thread which I believe you started around 2016. Is it possible that if a new batch was built today with the same recipe would it do better today after only 2 weeks of cooking because the watering method between the start of the grow and the start of flowering is more finely tuned than it was back then.

 

[KingJohnC]

This is too lengthy of a topic to either properly or fully cover in this one thread.

Short simplified point form

a) The soilless mixture is primarily composed of inert material which can hold moisture but lacks the the defining qualities of healthy earth or active soil. Peat moss is mostly inert but lacks energy to sustain plants beyond seedling stage without the constant addition of additional energy being supplied by added nutrients.

My belief is that the compost and worm casting are what have supplied the majority of energy available to the cannabis plants until deficiency presented.

b) In order for any soil mixture and or components to blend and activate to actively supply a cannabis plants nutrient requirements is a multiple year process at its soonest possible is year 3. It is the bacterial, fungal, micro and macro organisms in soil which allow potential electrical chemical reduction which slowly release continual nutrients at which impart energy and health to living organisms. Healthy earth is recruiting and colonizing new living organisms which prefer converting raw materials and either chelate or act as catalytic agent for these chemical to be in usable forms to supply plants or animals to assimilate. Raw rock forms or raw materials which are not broken into elemental form are unusable to plants outside of extreme narrow pH ranges. To replenish good earth and create active soil which is able to continue supplying nutrient energy for multiple grow seasons requires a much longer extended time period.

c) Coco-Coir is the coconut husk which was traditionally burnt after harvest until the practice was outlawed. The coconut husk is where the coconut tree isolates either heavy metals or toxic pesticides from the remaining plant mater. Coco-Coir does not produce or release a significant nutrient source.

d) In manures the majority of active microbes we are actively attempting to colonize when the manure dries the majority of organisms either greatly die off or become dormant. These dormant microorganisms only reactivate or reproduce slowly.

e) the EC or electrical conductivity of the earth is a measurement of the total capacity of potential electrical chemical conversions that is being internally generated by all the living constituents in the active soil. This EC reading is converted to a PPM scale but not valid above 1200 PPM. The conversions take place very quickly, specialized equipment is required to accurately measure active chemical bond changes in earth. The cubic feet of the moist earth area spread out these reactions to supply growing vegetation with nutrients. This is often why we are able to see a growth spurt after a good rain.

This is a must have in organic soil. Clay particles are the fuel source for the soil. The break down chemically into soluble nutrients - CEC or cation exchange capacity of you soil is crucial.

Clay particles - soil organic matter feeds the microbes - microbes break down clay particles releasing soluble nutrients for plant uptake.

Feed the soil - the soil feeds the plants.

You need a proper soil mix starting out.

f) The earth under normal circumstances isolates and stratifies any excess elements into mineral deposits over time. This is partially how the mineralization and stratification layers are formed within the earth how mineral deposits rock deposits and objects as petrified wood or fossilized organic material occur within active soil. This is where Laterite, Lingunite and Langbeinite under pressure and temperature form significant deposits in nature as well most mineral and metal deposits. Any powdered rock components added to plants must be first converted to a chelated form or catalyzed so a plant under normal pH conditions is able to directly use the elements.

g) Is there other water source which is available? Mineral water is not suitable for cannabis plants.

Hi @DexterC!
You might try some banana peel boiled in water to give you a K boost. Try some organic calmag to see if it helps clear up the magnesium deficiency.

Please do not use banana peels with any plant or compost intended in any means for consumption by human or animals. One of the single greatest toxic poison people are regularly exposed to in their home environment is banana spider poison. Banana peels are unsuitable for use as a component in any secondary application.

The equipment set up the light source is mounted high above the plants. Is there a reason why the mounting height or coverage area is at great length from the plants? Light diminishes by 1/4 strength per linear foot from the light source distance to the plants. The amount of available light at 1 metre or 3.2' is reduced by over 3/4 before arriving to the plants.

The plants in photographs and thread Nutrient burn or deficiency? are the plant leaf and tips habitually wet?

The leaf damage in the second photograph appears to be contact related.

The third photograph the left cannabis plant is displaying a magnesium deficiency by the upward curled leaf edges.
The third photograph the left cannabis plant is displaying a calcium deficiency by the dimpled area adjacent to the leaves edges. The third photograph the left cannabis plant may be displaying an early potassium deficiency.

If you continue to use the current grow medium you shall have to adjust the pH of either the water source and or the nutrient mixture to pH 5.8 for soilless grow mediums.


You want pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soilless (peat moss and coco coir) and pH 6.5 for soil.

Here is a nutrient availability chart

Here is a cannabis leaf deficiency chart

here is the Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver and the Plant Abuse Chart

Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver: Pictorial

Plant Abuse Chart