Bud Rot & Mold vs. Microbes

You know? On second thought the flakes might be easier and I'm all over that today!
I have a question. How do you filter it so it doesn't clog the sprayer nozzle?
The flakes certainly are for me. I scoop some into some non-chlorinated water, microwave it for 20 seconds, let it cool and add to some more water with worm castings.

I strain it through a metal sink strainer from the dollar store. It's shaped like a small bowl and sits down into my sprayer. But, cheese cloth or a paint strainer bag, etc. all work since the microbes are so small they slip right through and the big stuff gets trapped.

I brew the microbe solution in my cellar using an aquarium heater set on 80 degrees.
And when you say "brew" you're talking about a passive process with the heater, and not actively brewing with an air stone, correct?
Thanks for the tag Azi! I haven't had bud rot since I stopped leaving my plants out overnight (when the RH reaches into the 90s) but I'd like to see how the tests go here. Then next summer I can leave a plant out and see if I can duplicate any positive results.
I figured as an outdoor grower this might interest you. Hopefully we'll all learn something and at least some of it will be positive!
 
Yes, correct! I moved this in the cellar last fall because it was too cold outside. The process works very well that way. I just put in rice, the heater, and the microbe source. 2 days, and it's ready. Happy Smokin'
 
Yes, correct! I moved this in the cellar last fall because it was too cold outside. The process works very well that way. I just put in rice, the heater, and the microbe source. 2 days, and it's ready. Happy Smokin'
And what of Master Cho's advice to site the bucket while you "brew" near the plants you will use it on to cultivate the microbes that will thrive in that environment?
 
A Jadam water extract would probably be the easiest.

Fill a jar about 2/3rds full with the plant material, add some microbes (a little leaf mold soil, worm castings or finished compost), cover the material with water and seal with a cover.

It will start to break down and be usable in about 10 days, although it will get better with age.

To use, dilute in non-chlorinated water at least 1:30.
 
Last fall I "brewed" the buckets of microbe solution until it became too cold, microbes didn't develope. I chose to keep the process going by transfering to the cellar with an aquarium heater. The microbe solution still works very well for me. Happy Smokin'
 
Last fall I "brewed" the buckets of microbe solution until it became too cold, microbes didn't develope. I chose to keep the process going by transfering to the cellar with an aquarium heater. The microbe solution still works very well for me. Happy Smokin'
Ahh yes, you did say you were using it in late fall. The heater in the basement makes sense. :thumb:
 
roots as well???
You can, but they'll take a long time to break down. I usually just do the leaves.

I usually keep two containers going.

The first is a small jar that I work out of and the second is a larger container where most of my breakdown takes place. Then, when the small jar is empty, I filter enough from the larger container to fill it as I find filtering the stuff every time I use it to be a bit of a pain.

Then, when I have extra new material to add, I add it first to another container and cover it with water, add a bit of microbe material and then add it to the larger jar. That way the concentration of the extract in the larger jar remains relatively the same over time, at least to start. It does get stronger with age.
 
I am planning for my test to try a foliar spray of aerated worm compost tea, which I've brewed before more than once. I've got some time yet because the 2 clones for the test still have a long way to go in veg.

Once moved to flower, I was going to spray one of the plants, and leave the other as a control. I was thinking just one application early in flowering before buds form, or perhaps when they have taken shape but are still very young.

Is one application enough? Should I spray mature buds, and maybe light wash off next day? Thanks.
 
Frequency is probably the second variable to consider (strength being the first). And I think environment has a lot to do with it as indoors will be different from outdoors in the weather. Your's is also slightly different being outdoors but covered from rain.

I think @Bode uses his right before a rain event in his outdoor setting.

I was thinking maybe after stretch, and then again at maybe 6 weeks just before bulking up before the buds swell and it's harder to get into the nooks and crannies.

And I think rinsing off would be counterproductive. As I mentioned in the first link I pointed to, think of it like this, microbes are all around us, everywhere on every surface. When we spray our mix we are trying to cover the surface with more of the microbes we are trying to promote, essentially covering the battlefield with our troops that hopefully overwhelm the bad ones.

Control of surface real estate is how the microbes live and if the surface is covered with those we want there is less available to the ones we don't. So, rinsing the surface off after applying would seem to clear the battlefield somewhat and make it a more open surface for new competition including molds and bud rot fungus.

So, I spray and let it dry before lights off/sundown and just leave it. But I also bud wash at harvest which I think is a better time to do the rinse. That said, I don't teally have much of a play book. Perhaps @ChefDGreen can offer his thoughts on frequency and possibly rinsing off as he seems to have a bit more working knowledge and experience with using the Microbial sprays.
 
Yeah flakes are easy and your method sounds good too! Mine are arriving today so says The Amazon.
I got mine at the grocery store. The box said they were preserved with something so I was concerned they were treated with something that would affect the results, but they seem to work great right out of the box!
 
I got mine at the grocery store. The box said they were preserved with something so I was concerned they were treated with something that would affect the results, but they seem to work great right out of the box!
That's good. These looked fine reading the description but I'm glad you told me I'd be concerned if I found things in it!
 
For those following along I should point out that we are using the JMS (Jadam Microbial Solution) a bit 'off label.'

In the book, Master Cho recommends another of his concoctions, Jadam Sulfur, to combat grey mold. Making it is a more involved process than for the JMS, but if we find the JMS is less successful than is hoped for, there is an alternative that can be tried as well.
 
Microbes can’t be washed off, they form glues that adhere them to the plants’ surface. You need 80-100psi to rip those microbes off of that leaf surface. A little rain isn’t going to do anything.

….. well, that’s the case for aerobic microbes in a properly made compost tea. I can’t speak for the anaerobic concoctions
 
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