Grow 3 - 10 Recent Auto Strains - LEDs Mars Hydro II 1200 - Box 120x120/4x4

Note to self: Wintering cover fabric for seeds = the way to go !

The "tent" trick with wintering covers works awesomely (see previous page for pics): it is like having them on a super nutrient, they look much more energetic than anything i've had so far. It is definitely the way to seed new autos under 500+ watts of full spectrum.

Note:
- 2 layers: favors stretching (vertical growth, seedling wants more light)
- 1 layer: favors leaves growth (horizontal growth - light can be used by the seedling)
(under mars-hydro 1200 full spectrum).


Use;
- Use 2 layers from seeding to day 1 or 2 after germination, then remove one layer. cut small holes day after day or leave like that until leaves are big enough to be exposed to direct light.
 
Seedling at Day 1, 2 or 3, under wintering cover "tents"
=======================================


Pictures to support the above post :)

Girl Scout Cookie (Mad Max tent) germination+1 day + 1 night with 2 layers (= straight stem (almost 2 inches), now 1 layer only
012-GSC-madMaxDAY2under-tent.jpg


Girl Scout Cookie 2, Day 3 (1 day under tent 1 lyer = boosted)
012-TentGSC2.jpg


Cream Mandarine XL , Day 5 (was frozen , now boosted)
012-TentMandarine.jpg


Blow Mind Day 5 (was frozen, now boosted)
012-TentBLOWMIND.jpg


I checked the specs of the cover I use, and it is a wintering cover that let pass air, light, water, and which is also made to allow burgeoning of protected plants when spring comes. it will not work with a simple plastic cover. it must be "the right stuff" if you want to see what i'm seeing (wow) !

nb: the dates on the labels are the day when seeds were put in soil.
 
yep, they are very strong :)
:morenutes:

EDIT: in case you were talking about the textile patches, yes, they are strongly attached with garden wire. The "tent feet" are made of plastic bottles cut and taped, solidly dug into the soil. the wind can blow, it's not a problem. ;-)
 
Very nice work.
I wish I knew what the actual fabric is called over in the states.
 
I'm sure you can find the same in the US. It's called "wintering cover" (it's written in English on mine, so i suppose it is the correct translation ? ).
I can't say the name/brand because of forum rules.... .

It is a veil made to protect summer/fragile plants from the cold in winter, in areas they don't belong, and I am sure you can find it in the US in a general gardening shop. I bought mine a while ago for my jasmin, bouguainvillea etc... all plants from the sunny south that would die during the winters we have up north, most of them can't stand temp below 10 or 5° C ) . They are necessary to avoid icing/freezing/exploding of the branches of bushes and small trees.

Choose one that is
- made out of natural fibers (or that looks like it's natural ;-) )
- which allows burgeonning when spring comes back (guarantees that light+air+humidity passes through)
- thin enough to adapt to various situation (ie, those covers are made to be adaptable, ie you can add layers if the weather requires it, or remove a few if it's too hot - the one i bought is like 10meters *5meters.... and it was not expensive, like less than 15 bucks or so tax included).

An old white cotton t-shirt is another idea, eventhough might be to thick after a couple of days. The white color is better because it diffuses the light better. Alternatively, you could use anything that allows to stop a bit of the light (a grid of some sort, with weaves that are fine enough to create shade and to let the light pass thru but not too much - the problem with nets can be the concentration of light in the micro drop you get after spraying - that is to say, light will not be well diffusedl - this cannot happen with fabrics like on the pic below).

Here is a close up pic of the fibers if you want to find something similar.
Let us know if you find one made out of hemp ;-)
wintering-cover.jpg


Good luck ;-)
 
I'm sure you can find the same in the US. It's called "wintering cover" (it's written in English on mine, so i suppose it is the correct translation ? ).
I can't say the name/brand because of forum rules.... .

It is a veil made to protect summer/fragile plants from the cold in winter, in areas they don't belong, and I am sure you can find it in the US in a general gardening shop. I bought mine a while ago for my jasmin, bouguainvillea etc... all plants from the sunny south that would die during the winters we have up north, most of them can't stand temp below 10 or 5° C ) . They are necessary to avoid icing/freezing/exploding of the branches of bushes and small trees.

Choose one that is
- made out of natural fibers (or that looks like it's natural ;-) )
- which allows burgeonning when spring comes back (guarantees that light+air+humidity passes through)
- thin enough to adapt to various situation (ie, those covers are made to be adaptable, ie you can add layers if the weather requires it, or remove a few if it's too hot - the one i bought is like 10meters *5meters.... and it was not expensive, like less than 15 bucks or so tax included).

An old white cotton t-shirt is another idea, eventhough might be to thick after a couple of days. The white color is better because it diffuses the light better. Alternatively, you could use anything that allows to stop a bit of the light (a grid of some sort, with weaves that are fine enough to create shade and to let the light pass thru but not too much - the problem with nets can be the concentration of light in the micro drop you get after spraying - that is to say, light will not be well diffusedl - this cannot happen with fabrics like on the pic below).

Here is a close up pic of the fibers if you want to find something similar.
Let us know if you find one made out of hemp ;-)
wintering-cover.jpg


Good luck ;-)

Thank you for the post!
Exactly what I was looking for, a nice detailed description that I can make use of at my local gardening shop!
 
New growing technic:
--> playing Sugar Minott to the plants, because sugar? why not (--> laugh here please :ganjamon: )

So we have the sound
Sugar Minott - Oh Mr Dc (Studio One) - YouTube

And the vision
013-all.jpg


My first post in sound-vision. I hope the plants will understand the message and will produce more ;-)

For the smell, well, in a few weeks because they are not smelly at all for the moment :)


mm, ok, i'm out, i'll be back with flowers, c u l8r ppl :D
 
For the moment, I only used supplements, no nutrients per se: rhyzoponics (platinium nut) and alga-mic (biobizz) because the soil is the Gold Label Special mix, with all you need for 4 / 6 weeks. Works very well so far. A small dose of bio-Heaven also from time to time (less than 2ml per 1.5 L). All those supplements are for roots and for a more dynamic growth (alga-mic) but are not NPK stuff.

I'm begining with BioGrow only now, at the max dose, then Bloom in a week or so. For the small plants, it is a light mix (gold label or biobizz) and so far, only a few drops of rhyzoponics in mineral water were used. I began used tap water but stopped because it will be impossible to stock 12 / 15 liters for the chorine to evaporate during a day or two. I am mixing several mineral waters to have the max of Cal, Mag, Sulfates, and the minimum of sodium and other stuff i don't need. I may simply add cal/mag in the future if it is not enough. Cal/Mag deficiency always appeared at second half of flowering , and I want to avoid it this time. Anyway, I must find a solution for water supplies :) 12 plants might use 12 liters per day, sooner than expected (especially with the textile pots I used, they become very large and require more water if you want water to reach the sides and bottom (for those, 2 or 3 liters each time seems the right amount - for the moment, with 1 to 1.5 liters every 3 or 4 days, I have never seen water run-off the pot bottom).

Tonight or tomorrow (end of week 5 for the oldest plants) , will be the first day when I use the regular BioBizz schedule. the older plants are in pre-flowering stage and will flower in a week max. I must also go in a shop to get the new schedule for autos from Biobizz, because it is not available on their site, and even less if you write to biobizz, and you cannot find this leaflet on the net or in all shops.... If I can get my hand on it, I will scan and post it.

But for the moment, a few drops of BioBizz alga-mic in sprays, a few drops of platinium nutrient's Rhyzoponics and/or a bit of BioBizz BioHeaven when watering (spraying rhyzoponics or resine+ from PN will simply burn the leaves).

So, for the moment, no nutrients at all because it is still in all soils. I just use the purest water available, which is very poor in terms of minerals. So , what you see is the soil effect; gold label special mix, or gold label light mix, or biobizz light mix depending on the plants. For 16 pots of 11 liters or more, I let you do the calculation about how many liters were purchased , and how many nutrients will have to be used each time :)
The Special mix from Gold label is flushable (ie, after 6 weeks, there are no more nuts). I did not find out if BioBizz all-mix is flushed, I had the impression that the nutrients stay longer in the soil.

I say all this because beyond the question of nutrients, there is the question of the number of plant = volume of water = volume of nutrients (cost). So, I think it is more economical and secure to use enhanced mix, because you will only use the supplments and Bloom, and only a bit of Grow/N, if necessary for the flowering stage.

I hope it helps and answers the question(s).
 
almost to lazy to read it all LOL the all mix is suppose to stay good to grow for 6 weeks the light mix 3. I've been using the biobizz feeding schedule from the shop been working great not problems since i switched from the actual biobizz schedule (to much N for the cfl) but with the leds make sure not to skip either the cal-mag or alg-a-mic and you'll be fine. As long as everything looks good you're good to grow and everything looks good so keep doing what you're doing and I'll be by to borrow some smoke before you know it HAHAHAHAHA

Keep it green man :Namaste:
 
first of all thanks helpful information you shared..

i am also starting 1600w mars hydro and was also sceptical about the distance recommended..

I am not sure if i can find this winter coat so i like to know if you think 120 cm will be ok initially, even 1-2 days after sprout and support for an healhty grow without streching?

if everything goes flawless at the begining with higher distance, when is the right time to take it to 30" as its recommended by producer?
 
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