i've run h2o2 in through or with loads of various media or hydro from the start. oh boy .. 30 + years. it's always in the toolbox.
i've run h2o2 in through or with loads of various media or hydro from the start. oh boy .. 30 + years. it's always in the toolbox.
I'm a bit younger than you. My first cannabis seeds sprouted in 1981. But I cannot claim to have planned it. Turns out, it's best not to dump the album out your bedroom window. Pop mowed 'em down 
. A year or two later, I learned the appeal of sin semilla, and that problem went away.
I helped tend the odd plant in the woods, here and there. But I never tried growing inside until '89, and could only call that a success in the broadest technical sense. 1993 was a real fun year, though. Since then, I've learned a thing or two - and forgotten three.
Oh, to have half the seeds we tossed, back in the day. A tenth, even. I miss the Oaxacan highland sativa even more than the Thai. It worked for my headaches. I'd give half my life savings for a dozen viable seeds. Maybe even up that to a dollar. . . .
. A year or two later, I learned the appeal of sin semilla, and that problem went away. I helped tend the odd plant in the woods, here and there. But I never tried growing inside until '89, and could only call that a success in the broadest technical sense. 1993 was a real fun year, though. Since then, I've learned a thing or two - and forgotten three.
Oh, to have half the seeds we tossed, back in the day. A tenth, even. I miss the Oaxacan highland sativa even more than the Thai. It worked for my headaches. I'd give half my life savings for a dozen viable seeds. Maybe even up that to a dollar. . . .
Tennessee Tim
Well-Known Member
I too, started growing a long time ago, about 1966. Back then almost all my successful grows were outdoors in clandestine plots. I started successfully growing under lights in the 1980's but had much to learn and the equipment is better now. We did not call it Hempy, but growing in perlite/vermiculite with a small water/nutrient reserve in the bottom was something we did for ornamental greenhouse growing experiments back then, starting with ornamental plants from cuttings. It worked ok for pot. I have adopted newer tech and products these days and still mess around with "Hempy" grows some. The rising cost of electricity may force me to go back outdoors, despite the dangers. My best pot has usually been grown outdoors with plentiful compost. The frequent watering of Hempy grows cramps my old age lifestyle and laziness but I put up with it sometimes for experimental reasons and cramped tents were the smaller containers and auto plants do well. Best wishes for all you veteran growers and beginners as well! Don't knock it till you tried it. I do get good results growing "hempy" style with organic compost teas sourced on my farm, plus fish and kelp extracts. I have to watch out for thrips and whiteflies due to several hops vines outside my grow room that "blow" in sometimes. It is funny to me that growing plants outside in the ground next to the hops vines are not a problem, only the monoculture grown in pots in my room/tent may suffer from the hops insect population. I feed all my 9000 sg. ft. garden with organic compost, fish and kelp. From asparagus to zucchini All do well with no chemical commercial fertilizers or insecticides. I do not eat or smoke chemicals from the industrial complex, knowingly. Peace and love.
Hello Hempy gang!
Any advice regarding perlite Hempies would be much appreciated.
So been struggling past two weeks with their nutrition and these gals not giving me a slight clue whats up with them.
During the transistion/stretch phase I went up to 2.4 EC and they did all fine. As the stretch slowed down the first symptoms appeared which by then felt more like environmental issues. Dialed the temps/VPD so thats not the case.
Something in my head says the foliar symptoms are because of too much fertz. Lowered EC down to 1.4-1.6 for couple of days but felt like they just kept getting worse. On the other side when exceed over 2.3 EC they started to drink slower and the tip/margin burn still continued.
This how the margins and tips looks:
Now been feeding about two days with pretty balanced ratios, EC 1.3-1.4 (650-700ppm) and can't tell if the tip/margin burn still going on but for sure not some of the leaves starting to lose the green shades now:
And this gets me confused.. Are they overfed or on short of something?
I've tried to flush the buckets couple of times and the current feed should have everything in balance - so that nothing SHOULD antagonize with each other.
Watering/feeding them about every 10hrs ~0.5L each time. Usually gives me a slight 10-30% runoff. Buckets are 5L perlite Hempies and their ”res” holds about 0.7-0.8L.
Please ask if I forgot something.
Thanks
Verb
Any advice regarding perlite Hempies would be much appreciated.
So been struggling past two weeks with their nutrition and these gals not giving me a slight clue whats up with them.
During the transistion/stretch phase I went up to 2.4 EC and they did all fine. As the stretch slowed down the first symptoms appeared which by then felt more like environmental issues. Dialed the temps/VPD so thats not the case.
Something in my head says the foliar symptoms are because of too much fertz. Lowered EC down to 1.4-1.6 for couple of days but felt like they just kept getting worse. On the other side when exceed over 2.3 EC they started to drink slower and the tip/margin burn still continued.
This how the margins and tips looks:
Now been feeding about two days with pretty balanced ratios, EC 1.3-1.4 (650-700ppm) and can't tell if the tip/margin burn still going on but for sure not some of the leaves starting to lose the green shades now:
And this gets me confused.. Are they overfed or on short of something?
I've tried to flush the buckets couple of times and the current feed should have everything in balance - so that nothing SHOULD antagonize with each other.
Watering/feeding them about every 10hrs ~0.5L each time. Usually gives me a slight 10-30% runoff. Buckets are 5L perlite Hempies and their ”res” holds about 0.7-0.8L.
Please ask if I forgot something.
Thanks
Verb
edging is typically a potassium ask. have to be careful as an excess also presents similar in the beginning. normally it is associated with an ask in flower though.
Uh... is "ask" an abbreviation for deficiency?
lol yes
edit : the curl and heavy green make me think there's a bit more going on as well. n tox and maybe a heat or light reaction as well would be a good dart toss on top.
Are you posting with a Samsung cell phone, by chance? Because I can slide through the letters of a common four-letter word on mine, and half the time it'll produce something like asparagus. Or pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis(*)
.Yeah, I noticed the "greener than real life" look. Which could be long-term excess N, transitioned to toxicity... and I forgot where my Mulder's chart went. Excess nitrogen is antagonistic to copper, boron, and... potassium.
Is also synergistic with magnesium.
Might not be the issue, but it has the symptoms. Are buds smaller and less dense than expected?
Plant is a good example of why running a grow journal thread can be helpful, IMHO; someone would probably have noticed the first appearance of symptoms. Which, presumably, would have presented when plant was healthier. And might have been somewhat different, perhaps causing the root cause to be obvious, who knows?
I am no expert. And right about as often as heads come up in a coin flip, probably. Hey, @Emilya , you're 3X better at this stuff, what do you think?
(*)Silicosis - and, no, that wasn't the longest word in the English language. I would have used it for effect, but it has 189,891 letters. Yes, really.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I also see a potassium deficiency or possibly lockout from excess N... It does make me curious what the nute mix is and the pH being used. The leaves look a little rough too, like there is heat and/or light damage. Can the OP confirm any of this?Are you posting with a Samsung cell phone, by chance? Because I can slide through the letters of a common four-letter word on mine, and half the time it'll produce something like asparagus. Or pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis(*)
Yeah, I noticed the "greener than real life" look. Which could be long-term excess N, transitioned to toxicity... and I forgot where my Mulder's chart went. Excess nitrogen is antagonistic to copper, boron, and... potassium.
Is also synergistic with magnesium.
Might not be the issue, but it has the symptoms. Are buds smaller and less dense than expected?
Plant is a good example of why running a grow journal thread can be helpful, IMHO; someone would probably have noticed the first appearance of symptoms. Which, presumably, would have presented when plant was healthier. And might have been somewhat different, perhaps causing the root cause to be obvious, who knows?
I am no expert. And right about as often as heads come up in a coin flip, probably. Hey, @Emilya , you're 3X better at this stuff, what do you think?
(*)Silicosis - and, no, that wasn't the longest word in the English language. I would have used it, for effect, but it has 189,891 letters. Yes, really.
Hi @bluter & @TorturedSoul 
Thanks for the input, really appreciate it.
Gorilla Glue seem to be a very N senstitive strain. Never exceed over 180ppm of N.
But yeah there has been more or less N tox signs from the beginning of the pre-flower. Also Remo Nutrients has all the Nitrogen in nitrate form - which I guess could cause the tip burn in excessive amounts.
For now Nitrogen goes only about 100-110ppm.
EC is 1.3 and in TDS 650-700ppm. Always pH'd between 5.8-6
As I said, can't tell the difference if the tip and margin burn has continued during the last days. But now theres yellowing showing up between the veins, aka intervainal. IMO it the yellowing looks like a Mg def now.. I was kind of expecting that, as theres only 35ppm of Mg.
Theres about 2.5ppm of Fe in mix so it should be enough.
(Pretty much the same spot where #1 post last pic is taken) and thats one day difference.
Potassium was fed during the pre-flower with Remo's recommendations. So it was between ~230-280ppm by then. During the stretch/preflower EC was between 2-2.4 and now last two weeks been bouncing between 1.3-2.3 EC as I don't really know should I up or lower the EC. Right now feed EC is 1.3 and the yellowing started straight after when dropped down from 1.9 EC
pH'd always betwen 5.8-6 and heat isn't the problem. Tent temp during the day is between 22-24C. Canopy temp either wont be higher than 24-25C. RH tends sometimes creep up to 60%…Which might mess up the VPD for a bit if temps are on the lower side.
And been thinking about the light stress.. plants are under 240W LED which is dimmed down to 60-70% giving me 40-45 DLI and whole canopy PPFD is between 500-700umol/m2/s. These are IMHO very moderate values, but read somewhere Gorilla Glue doesn't thrive under excessive light. But is that excessive amount?
And just a quick recap.
Here is one day difference how the foliar symptoms look.
Yesterday:
Today:
Yellowing quickly spreads interveinal on the upper leaves now.
And middle fans are kinda like losing the greenness at margins. When they appeared more like burned the serrates were more like pointing up. Now theyre more like flat and the tips been hooking down since week 7:
Lol this is actually hella frustrating.
Thanks for the input, really appreciate it.Gorilla Glue seem to be a very N senstitive strain. Never exceed over 180ppm of N.
But yeah there has been more or less N tox signs from the beginning of the pre-flower. Also Remo Nutrients has all the Nitrogen in nitrate form - which I guess could cause the tip burn in excessive amounts.
For now Nitrogen goes only about 100-110ppm.
These below are the current ppm values the plants been fed for the past 3-4 days.
EC is 1.3 and in TDS 650-700ppm. Always pH'd between 5.8-6
As I said, can't tell the difference if the tip and margin burn has continued during the last days. But now theres yellowing showing up between the veins, aka intervainal. IMO it the yellowing looks like a Mg def now.. I was kind of expecting that, as theres only 35ppm of Mg.
Theres about 2.5ppm of Fe in mix so it should be enough.
(Pretty much the same spot where #1 post last pic is taken) and thats one day difference.
Tbh don't actually even know how excess Potassium accumulates in the leaves… I've always just seen excess Potassium causing other nutrient lockouts due the antagonistic with other cations such as Mg, Ca & Fe.
Hi @Emilya
Potassium was fed during the pre-flower with Remo's recommendations. So it was between ~230-280ppm by then. During the stretch/preflower EC was between 2-2.4 and now last two weeks been bouncing between 1.3-2.3 EC as I don't really know should I up or lower the EC. Right now feed EC is 1.3 and the yellowing started straight after when dropped down from 1.9 EC
pH'd always betwen 5.8-6 and heat isn't the problem. Tent temp during the day is between 22-24C. Canopy temp either wont be higher than 24-25C. RH tends sometimes creep up to 60%…Which might mess up the VPD for a bit if temps are on the lower side.
And been thinking about the light stress.. plants are under 240W LED which is dimmed down to 60-70% giving me 40-45 DLI and whole canopy PPFD is between 500-700umol/m2/s. These are IMHO very moderate values, but read somewhere Gorilla Glue doesn't thrive under excessive light. But is that excessive amount?
And just a quick recap.
Here is one day difference how the foliar symptoms look.
Yesterday:
Today:
Yellowing quickly spreads interveinal on the upper leaves now.
And middle fans are kinda like losing the greenness at margins. When they appeared more like burned the serrates were more like pointing up. Now theyre more like flat and the tips been hooking down since week 7:
Lol this is actually hella frustrating.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I would try adjusting the pH a little before trying other things, maybe go down to 5.6 to see if there is a difference in response. It definitely looks like K def with those hooking tips.
Thanks for the reply @Emilya
Just watered the hempies with 5.9 pH and 1.3 EC. Thing what I noticed the runoff pH was 6.5 and 6.7 on the other bucket.. So the water pH in res tends to climb up pretty fast (only about 7-8h since last watered them with 6ph water)
Hard to believe that plant would exchange anions that much so the pH would creep up that fast.
And I'm using tap water for the irrigation. Water is pretty soft in here, between 90-110ppm. Tap water here contains shit loads of Sodium and Chloride. Not sure about the Sodium, but I've understood that Chloride tends to rise medium pH and if the beneficial elements are on low it competes with nitrate and phosphorus uptake. Sodium competes mainly with Potassium and-or with other cations.
Dont know if I'm starting to overthink this… But just googled "plant sodium & chloride toxicity" and that would make sense as the pH keeps rising and this is how the first foliar symptoms express themselves: The tips doesn't appear bright yellow as it usually would with excess salts, they appear more like "beige" or whitish
This is the 3rd plant in coco Hempy. As I started to feed her with the same water what I'm using to water the perlite hempies these appeared within two days
And after reduced the EC down to 1.3 from 1.9-2 the lowest fans showing this kind of appearance. Dead tissue/blotches could indicate P def (P not available due high pH in the medium?) Notice the fan leaf tips. The tips dried down that fast so they crumbled away
First all hempy run kicked off. Popped the seeds straight into perlite presoaked with Shogun katana roots. 4-5 days later we have 5 new seedlings saying hello.
one of my own crosses Streetwalker (Skywalker OG x my Widow)
4g hempy with used amended Black Gold and Pittmoss mix, fed lightly with @Blue Planet Nutrients
Some of the best I've grown so far, potent and good taste
4g hempy with used amended Black Gold and Pittmoss mix, fed lightly with @Blue Planet Nutrients
Some of the best I've grown so far, potent and good taste
So I decided after reading so many cool grows with hempy that I would try it myself.
Media
100% Perlite
in 2.5 gallon bucket
Seed
Amnesia Auto
Nuts
Maxibloom 7g per gallon
Silica .5ml per liter
Temp
78f
RH
50%
So a couple of day's ago I started LST training (might of pinched to hard), then I noticed that some of the leaves on top were very thin like. (As seen in the pic). It's getting approx. 500 PAR ATM, not sure if this is heat stress or light stress or something else but I figured being in the hempy headquarters that I might get some help diagnosing my plant.
Top View
This was yesterday - side view
today is day 30, any comments you may have is much appreciated.
Media
100% Perlite
in 2.5 gallon bucket
Seed
Amnesia Auto
Nuts
Maxibloom 7g per gallon
Silica .5ml per liter
Temp
78f
RH
50%
So a couple of day's ago I started LST training (might of pinched to hard), then I noticed that some of the leaves on top were very thin like. (As seen in the pic). It's getting approx. 500 PAR ATM, not sure if this is heat stress or light stress or something else but I figured being in the hempy headquarters that I might get some help diagnosing my plant.
Top View
This was yesterday - side view
today is day 30, any comments you may have is much appreciated.
Chuckeye
Well-Known Member
This might not be relevant, but...
I also have an Amnesia Auto But in 3 gallons of ProMix HP, roughly 40 days old and I'm feeding 2.2g/gallon.
Just noticed one bottom fan leaf yellowing so I will up the feed to 3g/gallon.
The Maxi Series aggressive feed chart suggests 5.7g/gallon.
You may be loving her to death
Cheers
Thanks for replying Chuck, much appreciated. You might be right, I read an article about hempy/perlite with the Lucas formula, at 7g maxibloom so I gave it a try lol not sure it went as planned, live and learn I guess lol I'll check out your grow, thanks again.This might not be relevant, but...
I also have an Amnesia Auto But in 3 gallons of ProMix HP, roughly 40 days old and I'm feeding 2.2g/gallon.
Just noticed one bottom fan leaf yellowing so I will up the feed to 3g/gallon.
The Maxi Series aggressive feed chart suggests 5.7g/gallon.
You may be loving her to death
Cheers
Cheers
ReservoirDog
Well-Known Member
Our setups are so similar; no nutritive content in matrix, an onboard reservoir, and differences so few; SIPs build in an airgap between res. and matrix, linking the two only with a purposefully bottlenecked, small amount of grow matrix, that when it comes to fertilization it seems to me natural I should look to your experience as a guide.
So as I move through my phases of growth I have new questions coming up and SIPs coverage online is quite slight compared even to hempy. Most SIPs discussion is by organic growers and almost 100% of the information I've relied on has come from a copy of the Octopot user guide. So far anyway, it seems this is a viable grow method.
I have concerns about nutrient/salts retention and pH, and my impression is that hempy users don not share this concern, especially those who are using 90-100% perlite mixes. I'm not seeing it, but it is early days. Is retention of nutrient salts an experience any of you have had during a grow? I don't know how exactly you'd figure out that was the problem if so but you clever-types never fail to amaze...
I am running quite a light strength of nutrients so far, well under 1.0 EC, only about 100ppm N yet got very dark green. For those of you who have run the same ferts in both hempy and a drain-to-waste system, what strength difference would you mix (in EC or PPM(H) between the two grow types, estimated, if all other influences are equal? I won't quote you on it, I promise. I'm only canvassing for some impressions and I'm proceeding in my mixes carefully and based only on the evidence before my eyes.
Maybe I'll start a hempy plant so I can monitor the differences with SIPs for myself. Oh, also, how did the name "Hempy" come about?
Look for 'current' in my signature if you'd like to have a closer look at my SIPs, we're only 3 pages in, so easy to catch up, I'd love to have you along for the grow.
best regards - rd.
That one I know. All the other stuff the bottle growers will have to opine on.
Hempy was(is?) the user name on another site of the guy that either invented it or brought it back and promoted it, depending on who's telling the story.
The original mix was perlite/vermiculite although he migrated over to coco for his later grows and there was a predilection for 2 liter soda bottles in a SOG setup from many of the subsequent practitioners.
