Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
Farm chores? Wife & kids? You didn't say you had 3 jobs.
My bad!
Farm chores? Wife & kids? You didn't say you had 3 jobs.
My bad!
Dville Farmer - Northern Lights
- Thread starter dvillefarmer
- Start date
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
It does consume all my extra time,but well worth it.
It does consume all my extra time,but well worth it.
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
i use cfls still to start seedlings and clones under, if i use the 400dual spec hps then plants stretch like crazy due to distance from the light, so for the first 2 weeks of life i start them under the cfls and that keeps node spacing very tight.
with the training methods this is what i think,
no trainer gives you a xmas tree shaped plant, this gives you one main cola that will be pretty big, so the ones below will be smaller as each branch gets lower down the plant,
topping is a way of bushing plants or or doing some main lining/fluxing, if my plants get to tall to qucik then ill top or fim as this slow upwards growth but then provides more main colas,
so topping is best used to make a bushier plant or to increase the amount of main cola as each stem you top produces 2 tops, fimming is the same but can produce more.
a scrog is perfect for cfls or for keeping the canopy nice and even, doing this gives you lots of decent sized buds as the plant is sharing its energy between all the buds on the plant, but you wont end up with a huge bud like you would with an xmas tree shaped plant but you should end up with more yield as you have less pop corn buds as all growth below the screen is removed so you then end up with lots of decent sized buds,
lst can be used to creat a scrog effect, you can pull the whole plant over on its side like i did with my ww x sk as it was growing quick compared to the other plants, so i pulled it over on its side and now ive got 20 main stems growing upwards producing buds,
or you can just use lst to open a plant up, so you could pull the side branches towards the edges of the pot which i often do as plants get bigger, i just poke holes in the sides of the pots along the top then use pipe cleaners to pull the branches down and out, this opens the plant up so more light can get in, its good for cfls as you are getting the most light into the plant,
so with lst you can train the main stem to grow sideways by gently pulling it over a bit more each day then the main stem can be grown along the ground, or you pull the side branches down just to open the plant up.
its more a way of controlling height like BAR says, if a plant is getting to tall then just pull it over so its canopy is even then you have lots of even buds as their all growing at the same height,
the methods i mainly use are topping and lst, i usually top at the first node of growth so this then gives me 2 main stems coming off the base of the plant, this then makes the plant feed both sides evenly so produces a nice plant, fluxxing/mainlining is taking this one step further by topping as early as possible to give 2 tops, then you top each top again to give 4 main tops then these are trained to the edges of the pots and then allowed to grow upwards giving 4 huge buds or you can go 8 tops.
but i use lst and topping to control height and give me a nice even canopy, some plants i use it more than others as it depends on how quick each plant grows, i like to keep all my plants at the same height so they are all getting the maximum light possibe
i use cfls still to start seedlings and clones under, if i use the 400dual spec hps then plants stretch like crazy due to distance from the light, so for the first 2 weeks of life i start them under the cfls and that keeps node spacing very tight.
with the training methods this is what i think,
no trainer gives you a xmas tree shaped plant, this gives you one main cola that will be pretty big, so the ones below will be smaller as each branch gets lower down the plant,
topping is a way of bushing plants or or doing some main lining/fluxing, if my plants get to tall to qucik then ill top or fim as this slow upwards growth but then provides more main colas,
so topping is best used to make a bushier plant or to increase the amount of main cola as each stem you top produces 2 tops, fimming is the same but can produce more.
a scrog is perfect for cfls or for keeping the canopy nice and even, doing this gives you lots of decent sized buds as the plant is sharing its energy between all the buds on the plant, but you wont end up with a huge bud like you would with an xmas tree shaped plant but you should end up with more yield as you have less pop corn buds as all growth below the screen is removed so you then end up with lots of decent sized buds,
lst can be used to creat a scrog effect, you can pull the whole plant over on its side like i did with my ww x sk as it was growing quick compared to the other plants, so i pulled it over on its side and now ive got 20 main stems growing upwards producing buds,
or you can just use lst to open a plant up, so you could pull the side branches towards the edges of the pot which i often do as plants get bigger, i just poke holes in the sides of the pots along the top then use pipe cleaners to pull the branches down and out, this opens the plant up so more light can get in, its good for cfls as you are getting the most light into the plant,
so with lst you can train the main stem to grow sideways by gently pulling it over a bit more each day then the main stem can be grown along the ground, or you pull the side branches down just to open the plant up.
its more a way of controlling height like BAR says, if a plant is getting to tall then just pull it over so its canopy is even then you have lots of even buds as their all growing at the same height,
the methods i mainly use are topping and lst, i usually top at the first node of growth so this then gives me 2 main stems coming off the base of the plant, this then makes the plant feed both sides evenly so produces a nice plant, fluxxing/mainlining is taking this one step further by topping as early as possible to give 2 tops, then you top each top again to give 4 main tops then these are trained to the edges of the pots and then allowed to grow upwards giving 4 huge buds or you can go 8 tops.
but i use lst and topping to control height and give me a nice even canopy, some plants i use it more than others as it depends on how quick each plant grows, i like to keep all my plants at the same height so they are all getting the maximum light possibe
- Thread starter
- #44
dvillefarmer
New Member
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
Great info my friend. Is there a write up any where on fluxxing?
Great info my friend. Is there a write up any where on fluxxing?
danklover79
New Member
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
Here's a link to a member's journal who's doing it. Light Addict's Fluxing Central - Featuring The Original Flux Journal
Here's a link to a member's journal who's doing it. Light Addict's Fluxing Central - Featuring The Original Flux Journal
- Thread starter
- #46
dvillefarmer
New Member
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
Raptor 8" Flange Dual Lamp AC Reflector Hood
I am pricing lights and see this dual bulbs. Would this require two ballast?
Raptor 8" Flange Dual Lamp AC Reflector Hood
I am pricing lights and see this dual bulbs. Would this require two ballast?
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
Yes.That's just a hood that holds two bulb's.
Yes.That's just a hood that holds two bulb's.
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
yep you would need 2 separate ballasts,
the hid im using is a 400 watt digital ballast and i use a dual spectrum bulb which gives a fuller spectrum for the plants, but that light in the link needs 2 bulbs and 2 ballasts, its so you can run a mh and hps bulb or bulbs of different spectrums and or watts
yep you would need 2 separate ballasts,
the hid im using is a 400 watt digital ballast and i use a dual spectrum bulb which gives a fuller spectrum for the plants, but that light in the link needs 2 bulbs and 2 ballasts, its so you can run a mh and hps bulb or bulbs of different spectrums and or watts
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
subscribed. T5 Florescent Lights provide more lumens then T8 Florescent lights. I would not bother to add additional Compact Florescent Lights when High Pressure Sodium lights are used as it provides a high amount of Lumens and high amount of light penetration. for air exchange you want the Cubic Feet Per Minute or CFM to exchange the air every 5 minutes, to determine the size in Cubic Feet measure your grow area in feet and multiply Length x Width x Height = Cubic Feet. for a cooltube to function you need at least 165 CFM. if you are going to go with a dual light bulb hood design I would use at least a 400 CFM inline fan with it, more depending on how much heat is being controlled. a small fan is required for air circulation within the grow area, you want the stems of small seedlings just to move to strengthen them. 1 digital ballast can run either 1 Metal Halide light bulb or 1 High Pressure Sodium light bulb. Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium Light bulbs of at least 400 watts use a mogul base. you should consider an active carbon filter for scent control during flowering. I have not used Botone rooting powder on seeds to know how it may affect rooting. to see how all the equipment is hooked up have a look at my KingJohnC 400 Watt LA Confidential Seed Cabinet Soil Indoor, i show how to connect all the equipment.
KingJohnC's 400 Watt LA Confidential Seed Cabinet Soil Indoor Grow Journal
subscribed. T5 Florescent Lights provide more lumens then T8 Florescent lights. I would not bother to add additional Compact Florescent Lights when High Pressure Sodium lights are used as it provides a high amount of Lumens and high amount of light penetration. for air exchange you want the Cubic Feet Per Minute or CFM to exchange the air every 5 minutes, to determine the size in Cubic Feet measure your grow area in feet and multiply Length x Width x Height = Cubic Feet. for a cooltube to function you need at least 165 CFM. if you are going to go with a dual light bulb hood design I would use at least a 400 CFM inline fan with it, more depending on how much heat is being controlled. a small fan is required for air circulation within the grow area, you want the stems of small seedlings just to move to strengthen them. 1 digital ballast can run either 1 Metal Halide light bulb or 1 High Pressure Sodium light bulb. Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium Light bulbs of at least 400 watts use a mogul base. you should consider an active carbon filter for scent control during flowering. I have not used Botone rooting powder on seeds to know how it may affect rooting. to see how all the equipment is hooked up have a look at my KingJohnC 400 Watt LA Confidential Seed Cabinet Soil Indoor, i show how to connect all the equipment.
KingJohnC's 400 Watt LA Confidential Seed Cabinet Soil Indoor Grow Journal
- Thread starter
- #50
dvillefarmer
New Member
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
Alright I have been researching my ass off and finally decided to go with the agrotech medium reflector (non a/c). And I am going with a phantom 600 watt ballast. I haven't decided if I will fork out the coin to get the dual spectrum or just get a metal halide for right now and by the dual spectrum by the time flowering comes. With the space I have I don't think I need an air cooled fan. But I will have my ceiling fan going along with a few box fans blowing over the plants and a few oscillating fans going across the plants. I think it will work out just fine
Alright I have been researching my ass off and finally decided to go with the agrotech medium reflector (non a/c). And I am going with a phantom 600 watt ballast. I haven't decided if I will fork out the coin to get the dual spectrum or just get a metal halide for right now and by the dual spectrum by the time flowering comes. With the space I have I don't think I need an air cooled fan. But I will have my ceiling fan going along with a few box fans blowing over the plants and a few oscillating fans going across the plants. I think it will work out just fine
- Thread starter
- #51
dvillefarmer
New Member
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
Just figured I would post a picture update. I started out with a slightly taller plant underneath the same hood. I had the light alittle too far up and the seedlings stretched alittle bit. But I moved the taller plant and was able to drop the light right on top of the plants.
Also, don't mind my wife's poor attempt to keep a venus fly trap alive that is at the bottom of the picture
Just figured I would post a picture update. I started out with a slightly taller plant underneath the same hood. I had the light alittle too far up and the seedlings stretched alittle bit. But I moved the taller plant and was able to drop the light right on top of the plants.
Also, don't mind my wife's poor attempt to keep a venus fly trap alive that is at the bottom of the picture
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
nice, i tried growing some of them v/traps but seeds never sprouted, so not tried again,
i only use dual spec as i got it free with the light, so cant say how it compares with mh or hps but im happy with the results so ill replace it with the same bulb when it needs replacing, im not going to change something that works for me.
a mh and seperate hps or dual spec for flower might produce better results, i was tempted to buy a mh until i worked out why my plants where growing so slow, now im happy with the growth so never actually bought it.
nice, i tried growing some of them v/traps but seeds never sprouted, so not tried again,
i only use dual spec as i got it free with the light, so cant say how it compares with mh or hps but im happy with the results so ill replace it with the same bulb when it needs replacing, im not going to change something that works for me.
a mh and seperate hps or dual spec for flower might produce better results, i was tempted to buy a mh until i worked out why my plants where growing so slow, now im happy with the growth so never actually bought it.
- Thread starter
- #53
dvillefarmer
New Member
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
The genesis bulbs have caught my eye. Has anyone done research and found a better bulb?
The genesis bulbs have caught my eye. Has anyone done research and found a better bulb?
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
mines a sunmaster but not tried other brands, ive heard the sunmaster bulb mentioned a few times in some other grows but their are a few brands you can get of dual spec and some mh and some hps,
hopefully someone has used that type and can let you know what its like,
mines a sunmaster but not tried other brands, ive heard the sunmaster bulb mentioned a few times in some other grows but their are a few brands you can get of dual spec and some mh and some hps,
hopefully someone has used that type and can let you know what its like,
- Thread starter
- #55
dvillefarmer
New Member
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
Monster gardens swears by them and they were votes best hps this year. So it must be a good place to start
Monster gardens swears by them and they were votes best hps this year. So it must be a good place to start
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
I used a Plantmax PX-MS400 - 400 Watt - ED37 - Metal Halide in my Seed Cabinet. It is rated at 4200K - ANSI M59 - 39, 000 Lumens - 10,000 Life Hours to compensate for a dual spectrum High Intensity Discharge light bulb.
https://www.1000bulbs.com PX-MS400
I used a Plantmax PX-MS400 - 400 Watt - ED37 - Metal Halide in my Seed Cabinet. It is rated at 4200K - ANSI M59 - 39, 000 Lumens - 10,000 Life Hours to compensate for a dual spectrum High Intensity Discharge light bulb.
https://www.1000bulbs.com PX-MS400
- Thread starter
- #57
dvillefarmer
New Member
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
Bit of an update. I decided to hold off on an hid just for a few more weeks. But I did pick order this
T5 Grow Light (4 Ft 8 Lamps) DL848 Fluorescent Hydroponic Bloom Veg Daisy Chain w/ 6500k Bulbs
Being at one point I will be running flouros and an hid, should I bump it down to a 400w system and save money? Or should I stick with a 600 watt system?
Bit of an update. I decided to hold off on an hid just for a few more weeks. But I did pick order this
T5 Grow Light (4 Ft 8 Lamps) DL848 Fluorescent Hydroponic Bloom Veg Daisy Chain w/ 6500k Bulbs
Being at one point I will be running flouros and an hid, should I bump it down to a 400w system and save money? Or should I stick with a 600 watt system?
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
600 watt will obviously produce a larger harvest, if you get enough plants under it. If you are keeping it small then the 400 watt will most likely suffice.
600 watt will obviously produce a larger harvest, if you get enough plants under it. If you are keeping it small then the 400 watt will most likely suffice.
- Thread starter
- #59
dvillefarmer
New Member
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
Alright here is one more question. Is there a guide to about transplanting. Just a rough idea on when to do it and should you add different things to the soil at different times when you do it?
Alright here is one more question. Is there a guide to about transplanting. Just a rough idea on when to do it and should you add different things to the soil at different times when you do it?
Re: Dville Farmer: Northern Lights
how large is your grow area where you would like to use a High Intensity Discharge light? a 400 watt High Intensity Discharge light will cover a 4'x4' area, a 600 watt High Intensity Discharge light will cover a 5'x5' area. a digital dimable 600 watt ballast can be turned down to 400 watts. I transplant when my small plants have grown 1"-2" past the edges of the pots, by this time they usually have a good root system that is just starting to circle the bottoms of the pots. to transplant I begin by taking the next size larger pot and moisten some soil so I can add 1"-2" of soil in the bottoms of the pot and begin to form the soil around the outside edges of the pot. I gently support the plant with one hand and invert the pot, gently tap the bottom of the pot so the soil and roots release from the pot. I then wet the soil and sprinkle mycorrhizae powder on the roots. I then place the plant right side up into the new larger pot and fill in any gaps around the outside of the pot slightly compressing it. I add more soil to the top of the plant burying the stem deeper then it was previously and fill in the pot leaving about 1/2" - 3/4" of room from the top of the pot so soil does not spill over the edge and making it easy to water with nutrients. I then water the pot with pH adjusted water making sure to water all of the soil, the soil usually sinks around the edges and I fill in any gaps with moist soil.
here are some Lumen versus distance charts, they do not account for heat.
how large is your grow area where you would like to use a High Intensity Discharge light? a 400 watt High Intensity Discharge light will cover a 4'x4' area, a 600 watt High Intensity Discharge light will cover a 5'x5' area. a digital dimable 600 watt ballast can be turned down to 400 watts. I transplant when my small plants have grown 1"-2" past the edges of the pots, by this time they usually have a good root system that is just starting to circle the bottoms of the pots. to transplant I begin by taking the next size larger pot and moisten some soil so I can add 1"-2" of soil in the bottoms of the pot and begin to form the soil around the outside edges of the pot. I gently support the plant with one hand and invert the pot, gently tap the bottom of the pot so the soil and roots release from the pot. I then wet the soil and sprinkle mycorrhizae powder on the roots. I then place the plant right side up into the new larger pot and fill in any gaps around the outside of the pot slightly compressing it. I add more soil to the top of the plant burying the stem deeper then it was previously and fill in the pot leaving about 1/2" - 3/4" of room from the top of the pot so soil does not spill over the edge and making it easy to water with nutrients. I then water the pot with pH adjusted water making sure to water all of the soil, the soil usually sinks around the edges and I fill in any gaps with moist soil.
here are some Lumen versus distance charts, they do not account for heat.
