Flittermouse 2017 Indoor Grow With Clones

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

Firstly, let me clear up my comments about mold and mildew that I made in Post #16. I have not positively identified 'mildew', nor 'mold', but, as I have come to understand, both mildew and mold are fungi, that is, non-green (lacking chlorophyll) plants that disintegrate organic material.

These fungi can appear given some combination of low temperatures (below 70 Deg F) and high levels of water in the environment.

I wanted to be clear about this - as clear as I am able to be - because I lost electric power for three days. I began to dread the onset of fungi in the flowering Main Grow.

Here is how things went down:
The plants missed no dark periods.
The plants missed three light periods.
The low temperature reached 51 Deg F.
The only time I watered was about one hour before the lights went out. I gave them a good drink of water - enough so that the top soil became re-hydrated but not so much that water drained from the drain holes.
During what should have been the 'light period' I used an LED flashlight to stimulate the plants (about 5-10 Min.) at intervals of about two or three Hours - sometimes longer.

I braced myself every time I opened the tent for fear of finding a web of fungus draped over the plants. But, as it happened, things worked out well.

Here are the 6 plants in the Main Grow at 28 Days into the 12/12 flowering cycle:

Compare these plants to the plants in Post #1. The plants in Post #1 had been flowering for 37 Days at that point. In my Grow #7 (Post #1) I had pruned the plants to maximize the branching. My thinking was that I would produce one big, fat bud at the terminal end of each branch. Now I have come to understand that this plant will produce a 'run' of buds along a stem, and the more robust the stem, the more capacity it has to feed these buds.

Here are three details the the flowers:

I try to 'listen' to what the plant is 'saying' ; the plant tells me what it likes, what it dislikes, and how it wants to grow - and I try to do the best I can to help it along.

In the present grow I counted 13 stalks within 1'-2.5' of the light. Of those, 8 are within 1' of the light. That means the plants average 2.16 stalks per plant and 1.3 stalks per plant within 1' of the light. The optimal distance to the light is 20"-24". I am content with my situation.

As for the clones, they have not changed much since Post #20. I am trying to 'force' shoots to grow lower on the stem by cutting the top growth off, thus diverting growth hormones to the lower shoots. As these lower shoots develop I may take another cut from the top. I might repeat this a number of times until there are no more shoots left to 'force'. My aim is to have branching as low as possible on the stem.

Here are the results of my efforts:

They are still on an 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle. I think this works well for them ; too much LED might be taxing.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

Here are the results of my pruning of the clones in 10 Oz. cups on a 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle at 45 Days (Lift 1) to 52 Days (Lift 3):

There are 11 in number because one expired.

Detailed and close-up photos might have been helpful, but my aim was to produce as many healthy stems close to the soil level as I could. I tried to achieve this by trimming the highest growing shoots with the hope of diverting some of the growth hormones to the lower growths. I made repeated cuttings until the plants was not producing health new growth down low and/or the leaves being produced were stunted in their morphology.

Here is a typical plant in the process of transplantation:

The clear plastic 10 Oz. Cup measures 2" across the bottom, 3" across the top, and 4" high. I transplanted 9 of the 11 clones into 22 Oz. Tumblers measuring 2.25" across the bottom, 3.5" across the top, and 6.25" high. 2 of the 11 clones retired.

The 9 transplanted clones have 2 to 5 active growths, and 5 of the 9 have two stems emerging from the soil. I am hoping to produce more stalks strong enough to support a robust cola.

Here are the 9 after transplant:

They continue on an 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle. I feel good about slowing things down at this point.

As for the main grow, at about 45 Days of flowering the defoliation process seemed to accelerate and the bud started to give more scent. I took this as a sign to raise the temperature to 75 Deg F., from 70 Deg F. I might run them at 75 Deg F. for a couple of weeks and then run them at 80 Deg F. until the end.

The buds are starting to form colas along the tops of the stalks. I figured that the plant wanted to flower this way but I thought they might flower like this on each and every branch. (More wishful thinking.)

In any case, here are two photos at 45 Days:

I will have more photos after I 'manicure' the colas.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

Here are the plants in the Main Grow at 52 Days of flowering (12/12). The first is a photo of the 'main eight' colas and the second is an attempt at a close-up:

I should probably pause here to make a few notes on the genealogy of this plant.

With the amount of cultivation realized in the past few decades, it seems likely that any given seed is, to some degree, a hybrid between an Indica and a Sativa.

The Grandmother of this plant was the result of three-or-more years of outdoor growing where I tended to select Indica-dominant female plants. I gauged this Indica nature by assessing the dark-green-ness and the broadness of the leaves and by assessing upright growth habit.

The males I used to pollinate the selected females were, invariably, the last males to show their sex.

These seeds I used in my First Indoor Grow (2014). In that first indoor grow I grew a plant #10 that was, like the grandmother, indica-like. I also grew a sativa-like plant #5. This plant had a gorgeous smell (I was impressed - eyebrow raising). The leaves of that plant #5 were a lighter green and narrower than plant#10, and the growth habit was compact and shrub-like - roundish.

That first indoor grow had a long 16 Week flowering period where the light cycle started at 14 Hours and then went down, incrementally, to 8 Hours. I think this extended flowering period had something to do with the fact that plant #5 produced pollen sacks and fertilized plant #10. I called the seeds produced, by plant #10, 5x10.

I Post #6, above, I mentioned a plant from my 5th Indoor Grow (1016) having a taste like candy. (That was Plant #4 of Grow #5). I think this was the result of 'true' breeding from Plant #5 of Grow #1.

I hope to germinate seeds from Plant #4 of Grow #5 some time. I would like to be able to carry along two or three different plants, but I'm going one plant at a time.

This current plant is flowering somewhat like I thought it would, given the right conditions, but more than I expected. I am looking forward to watching the flowers develop into maturity. It took three years to come up with one plant but I am happy and the journey was well worth the effort.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

NOTES on the OIL-FILLED RADIATOR:

The fact that the radiator is adjustable in 5 Deg F intervals only was cause for suspicion right from the get-go. Following is my breakdown of the problematics.

The radiator has three 'Modes' of operation: Low, High, Economy (self-switching between High and Low).

The radiator is adjustable at 5 Deg F intervals, starting at a low Temp of 65 Deg F.

The thermostat is located somewhere on the bottom of the radiator.

I used three thermometers to sample temperatures at the bottom of the colas, the top of the colas and at the top of the lights. When the radiator was set at 75 Deg F on Eco Mode, the Temp at the top of the colas was in the 90's (Deg F.) and the Temp above the lights was in the 100's.

This high temperature was probably to very good for the plants but no damage was evident.

It became clear to me, at this point, that using the controls on the radiator would not be adequate in regulating a proper temperature. I take the optimum temperature range for flowering to be 75 Deg f to 85 Deg F.

Here is my solution, which is working well:

When the lights are on I have the radiator set on Low Mode at 65 Deg F, Have ALL of the vents and ports in the tent open, have the bottom horizontal zippers of the front open, and the front vertical zipper open 4'. This results in a fluctuating temperature ranging from 81.3 Deg F to 83.6 Deg F. (I had one reading at 84.5 Deg F.) The thermometer is at the top of the colas.

When the lights are off I close the ports AND the vents on the sides of the tent, close the front horizontal and vertical zippers, and switch the radiator to High Mode at 65 Deg F. This results in a fluctuating temperature ranging from 75 Deg F to 83.3 Deg F. (I had one reading at 84.5 Deg F.)

Using the ECO Mode will 'never' result in a consistent temperature range.

I wish I had a little more control over the temperature but what I have come up with is in the optimal range and I am happy with it. In any case, the radiator is far superior to the Ceramic Forced Air Heater for flowering. I will continue to use the Ceramic Heater for cloning, though.

Also, the IR-Quartz Heater in the Hut continues to purr along producing a Temp of 68 Deg F without drying the air too much.

Here are the plants in the Main Grow after 9 Weeks of flowering on a 12/12 cycle. The first photo shows the 'Main Eight' colas, and the other two photos are close-ups:

I would describe them as "spongy" but firm, especially near the tops.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

My notes on regulating the temperature in the Tent in Post #24 are predicated on a Room Temp (outside the Tent) of 55 Deg F +/-. I have not tried all of the possible permutations of open/closed vents/ports/zippers, Modes of heating and Temp settings but I have tried quite a few and I am a little surprised that I found a couple that seem to work quite well.

I thought this was important to say before I forgot about it.

Compare the Colas in Post #24 to the photos in Post #21 and Post #22. I am encouraged by this development. The resin glands are starting to develop along with the scent. I anticipate these colas to 'fill in' and progress from 'spongy' but firm to dense. I am very eager to evaluate the final product.

I rolled a joint yesterday with some better developed buds from Grow #7 (the last, 'failed', grow) and the taste and high were better than I have previously witnessed from this plant. If that joint is any indication of what these flowers in Grow #8 might mature into then I could have a plant that is better than I thought it was. From the beginning I thought this plant was fine but not exceptional. It probably still does not warrant being considered exceptional but I think I will find it closer to 'exceptional' than to 'marginal' or 'passable' or 'acceptable'.

Being able to watch the colas fill-in is a real treat for me. I am happy you have an idea of the conditions that I have been working with for the past three years, for, now, you may better appreciate my joy in watching the flowers develop.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

(Also, my heat moderating project with the Tent involves a polyester blanket on the top - leaving the ports and vents free and clear.)

Here are the Clones at 4 Weeks in the 22 Oz. Tumblers, on an 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle (at 68 Deg. F.):

One expired, so I am down to 8 plants. The plant in the Front Center looks a little tired, as well. I think the conditions are a little shy of optimal. (I think about 72 Deg. F. to 75 Deg. F. works better at this stage.) (I think 10-12 Hrs LED would be better.) I suppose I am flirting with how slow I can actually grow this plant.

Here are the Main Eight colas at 10 Week of flowering:

Here is the cola to the far right, a little closer up:

Notice the foil at the top of the bamboo rod. This is the thermometer. I hooded it in order to protect it from the LED Light. I think the light distorts the reading.

Here are three 'close ups' of the 'resin frost' on the buds:

I am curious to see how this frost develops over time. This is a phase of the plant that I have not seen yet.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

The colas are making the plants a little top heavy. One of the large ones got loose and bent the plant half way to the floor. Using the bamboo rods takes some finesse in negotiating with the plants to stay upright. Twist ties work well.

One of the smaller colas snapped of, without my help:

Here are two details of this cola:

Here are 'The Main Eight' colas:

Here is one singled out:

Here are 'The Back Five':

Here are 'The Front Three':

And, here are details of the 'resin frost':

Here is detail of a stalk flushed with red color:

This plant seems to like to flower on one or two stalks. So, being the kind of gardener that I am, I am trying to see how short I can make this plant grow. One technique I have been using is to weigh the tip of a stem down with a binder clip in order to 'encourage' the stem to grow laterally and perhaps divert some of the growth hormone into the lower growth nodes.

Following is an overall of the clones. There are seven remaining. Notice the binder clips in the front center:

Here are details of the clips:

Here are the results of using this method. Notice the horizontal growth:

This will probably produce smaller stalks, and smaller colas. Perhaps more but smaller. I will find out.

And the Indica-skunk smell is starting to develop in the main grow.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

Firstly, following is another cola that snapped off, followed by some 'resin frost'.

Following is an overall shot of the 6 plants at 12 Weeks of flowering on a 12/12 cycle.

Following are the three taller colas of the 'back five', in isolation.

Following are three shots of the 'resin frost' from those colas.

The reason I have 6 plants and 8 colas is that two of the plants have 2 main stalks. This stems from a "Y" branch established under one foot from the top of the soil. I have two detail photos of the "Y" branches but I did not upload them, so I will try to post them later.

I am attempting to replicate these "Y" branches in my current batch of clones. I relinquished the binder clips and followed a pruning method close to the description at the the end of Post #21, above. All of the clones have at least two stalks with ridges, which may, or may not produce large colas. I do not know how much of this is determined in the roots and how much is determined by pruning.

In any case, following is the best shot I have at my attempt at 'forcing' a "Y" branch.

Notice the two shoots below and on each side of the cut on the ridged stalk.

Following is a shot of all seven clones.

Following are each clone, individually.

I have a polyester quilt covering the Clone Hut, and it had been covering all of the ports. I have since uncovered the ports. I think this has helped the air flow. The clones are looking better. I think I might 'lighten' the potting soil next time with some peat moss, et al..

I am sure there is more I might say, but I will try and get the photos of the "Y" branches.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

Firstly, below are the two "Y" branches I mentioned in Post #28, above:

Secondly, below are four photos of attempts to initiate a similar growth pattern in the clones. The photos may not adequately show the technique, but you may see the general idea. The branching which I tried to initiate on the main ridged stalks may produce two strong, ridged, stalks capable of supporting a large cola each - or may produce one dominate, ridged, stalk capable of supporting a large cola and one 'secondary' branch capable of supporting only a smaller cola.

The clones are all about 10" tall and have been in 22 Oz. Tumblers for Eight Weeks (since 11/22/17). (My last grow saw them in the Tumblers for a total of Seven Weeks. I think I was using a 12/12 (LED/CFL) light cycle, as opposed to the 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle presently being used.):

As for the main grow, the photos in Post #28, above, were the plants in flower for 13 Weeks (NOT 12 Weeks).

Following is an overall photo of the plants at 14 Weeks of flowering on a 12/12 (LED/Dark) cycle:

Next are three individual colas (the tree taller ones on the 'back five'):

Now, I have been wondering about when to harvest. 14 Weeks of flowering seems a little long for an Indica. As I have come to understand, Indicas flower on a spectrum of between 55 Days and 70 Days - perhaps 79 Days. Sativas are said to flower on a spectrum of between 70 Days and 98 Days.

Well, 14 Weeks is 98 Days. So, how am I to understand this?

In Post #23, above, I speak of the genealogy of this plant. I am thinking that by choosing the last male to show its sex as the fertilizing plant, and choosing Indica-dominate females, I allowed an equatorial variety to pass its 'time signature' on to an Indica. This may not be the case, but my main desire in my selective breeding project was to see how close I could get to a long flowering Indica. I was curious to find out what this would be like. This 'time signiture' may have been "baked-in" to the grandmother seeds that I used for my first Indoor Grow, where I produced the #5 X #10 seeds (Post #23).

In any case, the pistils are still white, mostly, but browning at the tips. There are red pistils but those are smaller:

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

Following is a photo of resin frost:

The resin glands remain clear, for the most part, and not yet browning. This, together with the mostly white pistils, indicate that the plants are not fully mature.

I have noticed a transition from Week Eight to Week Thirteen (5 Weeks) where the plants moved from a stage exhibiting a rather liquid, tacky, resin frost and a spongy overall feel to the colas to a stage exhibiting a rather solid, crusty (like sandpaper), resin frost and a rubbery overall feel to the colas.

I attribute this transition to the resin moving from a more liquid state to a more solid state and to the pods becoming engorged.

When the resin is more liquid, the scent seems to move freely to the air. When the resin is more solid, a gentle pinch or rub seems necessary to release the scent. Hence, a movement from liquid to solid.

When the pods are less engorged there seems to be more elasticity to the colas. As the pod become more engorged there seems to be less elasticity to the colas. Hence, a movement from spongy to rubbery - and, in the last week to firm.

When the resin glands become sufficiently brown but before they start to break off, like icicles, and when about half of the pistils start browning and start to wither, I will take those signs as an indication that I should harvest. I anticipate the colas to be firm enough to resist a moderate pinch between the thumb and the forefinger.

This will probably be in Days, not Weeks. This may ,or may not, be an exceptional plant but I think it is somewhat remarkable to have a indica-dominant plant with a flowering period of over 98 days. This might not be as unusual as I think it is. I am sure it has been tried before.

I will have more photos of the crop before and after the harvest. My one regret is that I will not be able to share the harvested crop with you.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

The colas could not be pinched with enough pressure to distort their form without threatening the rupture of the resin glands, as would be indicated by sticky and stinky fingers - and I took this to be a strong indication that I could comfortably harvest the crop.

This plant was harvested 102 Days after initiating a 12/12 (LED/Dark) flowering cycle. At the beginning of flowering the plants were 2.5' - 3' tall (30"-36").
At harvest time they were, at most, 4'-8" tall (56").

I would be hesitant to harvest any sooner. In the future I may extend the flowering some. The under story colas are less developed but this will probably expand the palate of the the taste and the effect.

Following are overall photos of, in order, tops before cut, bottoms before cut, after tops cut, after bottoms cut:

I tried to be as dignified as I could, but I hung them (the 'Main Eight' colas) out to dry:

Following is a representative of the eight on a platter:

It may not look that good in the photo, but the following photo of some resin frost on the same cola may help to flush things out a bit:

I will post more photos as the crop cures ... and attempt an analysis of the taste and the effect of this plant. And maybe some other things, like weights, essential things I learned, ...

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

Below is a photo of three of the larger colas, followed by nine photos showing details. Compare the detail photos with the last photo in Post #31, Above. It seems to me that the resin glands have progressed from a 'frost' to a 'glaze' - as if the glands melted into puddles. I have been waiting for this resin to manifest itself in this way, or some other similar way, for a long time.

I found it curious that my hands would become sticky after pinching leaves during the vegetative stage.

If you find enough of these positive qualities in a plant but do not have a good enough growing environment to help these qualities fully manifest themselves, trust your senses, have faith in the plant, and improve the environment.

Learn to clone as soon as you can so that when a good plant shows up you can perpetuate it. If you have not learned to clone then the most ideal growing environment will not help you in terms of gaining self agency with respect to this plant.

The acquisition of self-agency was a major factor in my selective propagation project. When I found a plant I liked, I harvested the seeds and moved inside.

In any case, the three colas and details:

Following are one photo of six smaller colas, two photos of one cola singled out, and one photo showing detail of this cola:

Following are one photo of three small colas, two photos of one cola singled out, and three photos showing detail of this cola:

I had them hung up on the line to dry for a week, then put them in heavy-gauge brown paper bags for a week. I think the paper bags helps to draw some of the moisture out of the colas - they were still moist in the center when they went into the bag.

When they seem reasonably dry I put them in make-shift humidors. I use Gallon Size (?) pickle jars with wet paper towels on the bottom. On top of the paper towels I place OPENED Quart-Size plastic zip-lock bags into which I have put the colas. The rubber seal on the lid locks the water in the jar and the water will eventually evenly disperse itself through all of the contents of the jar. If water comes into direct contact with the buds then you will probably soon see non-green plant growth which will devour the crop. (!)

Over time the paper towels will become dry. If the buds begin to dry, adding water to the paper towels will keep them moist.

I also use large pottery cookie jars with silicon gaskets on the lids and a wire hinge and latch.

This is , no doubt, far from the best way of storage, but it works, and it will keep the buds smoke able for a long time, with consistent monitoring.

I think I will try to flower longer next time and perhaps phase the dark period down to 10 Hours, or so.

I will think about extra food during flowering and of using Extreme Flower LED Lights during the last half of flowering.

I will update the progress of the clones at a future date. I am happy with the 12/12 (LED/CFL) cycle they are on right now. This slows them down quite a lot.
I think the narrowness of the Tumblers they are growing in (2.25" across the bottom, 3.5" across the top) help to check the growth of the plant.


Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

My main problems in maintaining this journal are that

my access to the internet is remote,

I have a time limit on the internet,

the internet runs at kilobytes per second.

In addition, the 420 site has been going through changes.

To those who are following this journal, thank you. I thought it was my duty to make public my experience. (I would probably try to reach out to you if my access to the internet were better - but I am grateful for the present conditions.)

I primarily wanted to participate in the continuing creation of the cannabis plant, in all of it's mystery.

I kept the clones in the 22 Oz. Tumblers, on an 8 Hr./16 Hr. (LED/CFL) cycle for 16 Weeks. That slowed them down quite a bit and kept them alive - but they atrophied a little and seem to go into a quasi dormant state.

They went into #1 Pots and a 16 Hr./8 Hr. (LED/CFL) cycle. I lost one plant and one is OK but borderline. They others are returning to healthy growth - but it took three or four Weeks at 16/8.

My main challenge is to grow these plants to the extent that I can harvest clone cuttings and start anew. Each plant produced about one Oz. of product and it does not take that much to get good and lit up. And the electric rate is higher for six months out of the year.

My task is to produce one crop per year, starting clones a number of times, on the least amount of electricity.

I have a few more photos but I have to figure out how to upload them first.

I will have this Journal finished soon, so if anyone has something to say this would be the time to do it.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

HI,

I was given two plants labeled "Afghan" - one in the vegetative phase and the other fully fruited. Both are in pots.

Now, this is very close to the plant I was hoping to find when I started gardening about ten years ago.

I have to let this event settle and then register itself for what it is - a pure gift.

One initial impression this Afghan mabe on me is that it makes me want to say that, in comparison with the plant I have been working with, it has more plant cells per square inch. The plant material is more dense.

The odor and taste are better...

When I digest this and can figure out how the photo upload works then I will post the photos.

'Readiness and the giving of form occur simultaneously.' 'Destiny grants us our desires, but in its own way, in order to give us more than we desired.'

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

I think that I can finish this journal in two more posts, this one included.

First off, concerning my make-shift attempts at making a humidor, I ditched the Gallon pickle jar. (Don't try that one.)

The Ceramic Cookie Crocks, with the latched lids and the gasket seals, work OK. The resolution of this problem is on my "to investigate" list.

Following are the clones in a state of vegetative progress:

All seven:

20180221_134519.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Clones

Individually:

20180221_135237.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Clone

20180221_135409.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Clone

20180221_135759.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Clone

20180221_135644.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Clone

20180221_135915.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Clone

20180221_140005.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Clone

20180221_140050.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Clone

Stem details:

20180221_170911.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Stem

20180221_171258.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Stem

These are presently much larger plants and are destined to go outside for the season.

I have two clones of this plant. They took 2 Weeks, plus, to root. The "Afghan" is sill rooting. (They were cut at the same time.) I am aiming at coming away with five clones of the "Afghan". I am keeping my plant even if it is inferior to the "Afghan" because, on the whole, it is a fair-to-midland plant, it adds variety to the menu, and I spent a lot of time and work in finding and nurturing that plant.

I was tempted to clone only one of my plant, but, as part of my standard mode of operation, I went with two ... as 'insurance'.

A significant advancement happened this week when I found a (third) grow tent. This grow tent has the same footprint of my Clone Hut, being 2'-8" W x 2'-8" L. But this grow tent is only 2' Tall ! These are 'exactly' the dimensions I was looking for. My cloning operation, (laundry bin, ceramic forced air heater, lights and setup), sits well in the Clone Hut, but needs only at least 2' of clearance. So, I loose 3' of 'dead space' on top and I have the Clone Hut to vegetate in and the Grow Tent to flower in.

I feel very good about this.

The main challenge, for me, is to manipulate the growth of the plants such that I am using the least electricity when the electric rates are the highest.

I have gotten a lot of use out of the 8 hr./16 hr. (LED/CFL) and the 16 hr./8 hr. (LED/CFL) time schedules.

I have changed my CFL lights to A19 LED 'light bulbs' (1600 Lumens). The CFL's were 1650 Lumens, but the A19's worked to clone. I am sure there are better lights to use, but the A19 household LED's work. (1600 Lumens is the 100 W incandescent equivalent.)

The curing process is important and I wish I had more to say about it, but, other than a few stray comments, I don't.

The third tent is a real blessing. (Six paragraphs back.)

Oh, when growing from seed, sometimes the stem will flush with red as early as when the first well formed leaves appear. I mark these with tooth picks, or some such.

I don't know if there is any real corollary between red color and potency in cannabis, but I like the red color for aesthetic reasons.

The red color is said to be 'ephemeral', which I take to mean that it may appear and disappear and reappear during the course of its growth.

Look for the red tinge in the seedlings first if you are interested.

Flittermouse

 

[Flittermouse]

Hi,

The five clones of 'my plant' have gone outside to mature. I have two small clones from them, in 12 Oz. clear plastic cups. They are presently under Extreme Veg. light at 16/8 (LED/A19LED).

Following are photos of bud and details:

20180222_075727.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Three Buds

20180222_074937.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Resin Frost

20180222_075524.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Resin Frost

Following are some photos of bud that I thought cured well - it handles well, holds its form, and smokes nicely.

20180401_101047.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Nugget

20180401_101437.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Nugget

Following is a photo indicating my default mode of consumption:

20180401_101517.jpg

• Flittermouse
• Apr 24, 2018

Default Method of Consumption

In addition, I have the 'Mother Afghan' and two clones from this plant, and more still rooting. (This 'Afghan' seems to take longer to root than 'my plant'. This seeming 'readiness' to root I took to be a positive quality.)

The 'Afghan' seems to be denser than 'my plant', and by that I mean that it seems to have more plant cells per unit of space - per cubic inch, say. There is more plant there, so to speak. (Perhaps something like the difference between the color of an annual flower and the color of a perennial flower.)

In any case, following is the "Afghan" in the vegetative state:

20180412_084124.jpg

• Flittermouse
• May 11, 2018
• clone

"Afghan" Cloned Plant

Following is the "Afghan", in front, and 'my plant', in rear:

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• Flittermouse
• May 11, 2018
• leaf comparison

"Afghan" (Front), 'My Plant' (Rear)

Following is the fruited "Afghan":

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• Flittermouse
• May 11, 2018
• fruited plant

"Afghan"

Following are details of the Resin Frost:

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• Flittermouse
• May 11, 2018
• closeup

"Afghan" Resin Frost

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• Flittermouse
• May 11, 2018
• closeup

"Afghan" Resin Frost

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• Flittermouse
• May 11, 2018
• closeup

"Afghan" Resin Frost

20180412_083125.jpg

• Flittermouse
• May 11, 2018
• closeup

"Afghan" Resin Frost

Following are two photos that indicate the density of the plant material, such as I mentioned, above. Notice the 'stiffness' of the leaves.

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• Flittermouse
• May 11, 2018
• leaf detail

"Afghan" Leaf Detail

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• Flittermouse
• May 11, 2018
• leaf detail

"Afghan" Leaf Detail

The leaves have a 'waxy' appearance.

Lastly, one last look at the "Afghan" colas:

20180412_090450.jpg

• Flittermouse
• May 11, 2018
• "afghan" bud

"Afghan" Fruited Bud

This journal amounts to a representation of a year in the life of my grow tents, and I am happy to have been able to share it.


"A life's work takes shape slowly. There is a periodicity about it. At intervals of years there comes a real show-down. Then one discovers, within the scope of his powers at the time, what he has been about."

- H. G. B., Jr. (Pittsburgh, July 28, 1958)

Flittermouse

 

[Teddy Edwards]

Hope all is well in your world.

Thanks for sharing this grow with us.

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I’m moving this to Completed Journals now.

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Sending you lots of love and positive energy.