Glookie (V2) - Delps8 Does NASC/Barney's Farm Glookies In DWC Again

[Delps8]

Grow #8, starting with one in 2017 and about half a dozen since early 2021. The 2017 grow was a photoperiod then five auto grows then a couple of photoperiod grows.

Strain/s:
Barney's Farm Glookies feminized photoperiod, purchased from North Atlantic Seed Company in 10/23.

Genetic Makeup:
Hybrid Indica

Growth Stage:
Veg

Pot/Bucket Size:
Superponics 12XL. Measures 40" x 23" x 14". 35 gals total, 28 gals usable. Filled to 1/2" from bottom of 3" net pots.

Tent Size:
2' x 4'

Grow Space:
Garage in Southern California

How Many Plants:
2 ==> 1

Environment:
Indoor

Stage:
Vegged 47 days, flipping tomorrow

Medium:
RO water

Nutrients:
Jacks 3-2-1 mixed IAW the current feed schedule at 3.79-2.52-0.99. I'll be using the same mix in veg and flower but have decided to try Jack's 1-30-20 Bloom for the first week of flower. In addition to Jacks, I'm using a potassium silicate silica supplement and HydroGuard.

Room/Tent Temperature:
Temps have been below their climatic average for most of the past 3 years that I've been growing here in Southern California. Climatic average highs and lows for January through March are 65/47, 65/48, and 67/49 so it gets chilly outside.
Garage floor temp under the tent is 72°± due to crap SoCal suburban home construction. This helps ensure that tent temps rarely drop below the low high 60's.

Relative Humidity:
Varies.

VPD:
Seedling at 0.8, veg at 1.0, flower at 1.2-1.5

Media/Res PH:
5.8 - 6.1

Pests:
I've had thrip infestations but this grow will be done in before they become a major problem. I have Spinosad leftover from previous grows.

Watering:
N/A

Sensors:
PAR Meter: Apogee MQ-500 calibrated by Apogee 8/22
Light Meter: Uni-T
Air temperature: AC Infinity Controller 69 ("ACI" and "C69")
RH: C69
pH: Bluelab monitor in the res + Bluelab pH pen. Note: the wire for a Bluelab pH probe is not rat-proof. But it turns out that rats aren't 2 by 4-proof, so it evens out.
pH Doser: Amazon had the Bluelab pH doser at a really good price so I took the plunge but I haven't used it yet.
EC: Bluelab monitor in the res + Bluelab EC pen when making nutes
VPD: C69

Thanks to the C69, I no longer have to babysit RH to control VPD. The C69 controls Hugh, the ACI humidifier, and is keeping VPD at 1.0. One of the advantages of the ACI humidifier is that when it's used with the C69, it has 10 levels of mist so it can be set to add RH very slowly or even continuously to the tent.

With the purchase of the C69, I was able to retire my PulseOne, two Inkbirds, and the humidifier that was controlled by the RH Inkbird.

VPD:
Seedling at 0.8, veg at 1.0, flower at 1.2-1.5

AC:
Whynter 14000 BTU portable. If I never use it again, it will be too soon.

Dehumidifier:
Waykar 4500 sq. ft. model. Will need to run this in flower. Winter-Spring is typically moist in SoCal and I lost my Spring grow this year to bur rot.

Fans:
ACI variable speed oscillating tent fan
ACI variable speed tne fan
ACI 4" inline fan
Two USB powered desk fans
Two 6" clamp on fans that I had before I went uptown with AC Infinity

Trellis: Scrog Pro 2' x 4' and ACI 2' x 4' net

Misc. Eqpt.:
Trupow 1/10HP 330GPH electric pump for res swaps. I only swap the res every few weeks but no way I'm going to hump 28 gallons of nutes.
Good Ideas Imp-L50-TC Impressions Palm Rain Barrel (50 gallon cistern)
HydroLogic 150 GPD RO unit
Wyze Web cams
GH Down
Chemboys Up (much stronger than GH Up)
Kasa Smart Strips are used to for scheduling and/or controlling power to all electrical devices in the tent. I did mechanical timers in 2017 and, after a power outage, I set them incorrectly and the plant revegged. No mas.
Grow journal is in Excel. I've considered with writing my own (I've been writing software for a living since the early 90's) but Excel does just what I need.
The Cannatrol is really enticing but I will probably end up making my own. Another cannabis forum has an extensive thread on a DIY model so that's probably the solution for me.
A bottle of CalMag that I use as a doorstop.

That's the intro. More ahead…

 

[Delps8]

Finally! 48 days into this grow before get it in gear and get a journal going!

It was frustrating to have my grows go bad last year. The first one to mold and the second one…well, check out the grow journal in the link for the details. It's a quick read. Fortunately, I have a good inventory from previous grows and, as things have turned out, this plant is off to a great start.

As usual, I started with a few seeds and then kept the one that I looked the best. Seeing that the last plant didn't turn out too well, I decided to germinate some two year old Gorilla Glue seeds, too. Everyone germinated and were growing pretty well but "Betty" was one clear winner and she's the one who went in the pool. I know that she's not one of the two Gorilla Glue seeds but I don't know if she's a Glookie or if she's a DoSiDo because I mixed up the seed pods. Shit. Maybe that's something that I can figure out during the grow?

The seeds went into Rapid Rooters on 12/30/23 and germinated on 1/1/24. This is my sixth grow so I'm at the point where I took slightly different approach during germination, most of it to get over my hesitancy. In early grows, I was definitely a "helicopter plant daddy". Now? Not so much. The change for me was to get them into Rapid Rooters very quickly, cut the time in grow dome short, and get them into the res ASAP.

A lot of my gear is from AC Infinity (I can't recommend them highly enough though their lights confuse me) and it has made this grow a breeze. VPD is set to the desired number and the C69 kicks Hugh into action whenever it's needed.

Weather has been very cooperative for the past six weeks. As part of the ongoing "permanent drought" here in California, we've had record breaking amounts of rain which has provided just the right amount of humidity. Temp and RH change outside but, thanks to AC Infinity, unless I open the tent doors to work in the tent, VPD hasn't varied much more than 0.05 from the 0.8 or the 1.0 setting.

After a few grows with bottled ferts, I switched to Jack's 3-2-1 for RO and have run the same mix from seed to harvest. That approach has worked out well so…change it, right? For this grow, I decided to use a "bloom booster", something I've avoided doing but the ferts are cheap and I decided what the hell, give it a try.

Lights - been really interesting…

Best way to put it is that this plant has been at or near the light saturation point for most of the time since germination. And it has been under a 24/0 photoperiod. There were a few days when it wasn't "turned up to 11" but, overall, this is a "well fed" plant.

The first lighting setup was my Vipar XS-1500 + the Rapid LED Royal Blue puck until day 21 which is when I topped her. After that, the veg light got the nod. With a veg light, I get really short plants with dense foliage and strong stems. After about two weeks under the veg light, I switched to the flower light.

Betty was under the veg light for less than two weeks because my Spring 2023 grow was under the veg light for 50 days and I think that was too much. It was a beast to train. This new plant is really building out the canopy. It's a 2' x 4' tent and she's about 22" x 20" x 8".

I have had some nutrient issues, completely my own doing. One thing I'm still figuring out is res maintenance (aren't we all?) and I've done only one res change + added a few gallons of nutes. Overall, PPM got as high as 500/500 but most of the time it was in the 400's. That just wasn't enough. A few leaves got damaged but no concern-there's huge amounts of foliage in there. Plus, I'm flipping tonight and will be doing a new res "bloom booster" res tomorrow.

Light data below.


Day 15

Day 29

Day 38

Day 39

Day 47

Light data from 2/15/24 (day 45)

This light data has been roughly the same for the past two weeks. I've seen no symptoms of excess light. And I'm running 24/0.
That's a staggering amount of light.

Light readings, by day:

 

[No Pain]

looks nice and healthy and really bushy! I would recommend pulling some fan leave to open her up for air flow and light to those lovely side shoots you have going on. I have been there with res maintenance in my time. I do it ever seven days 8 days max religiously as that way i know that my ladies have access to everything they need. The pain was figuring out a way to make the change just a step and not a pain in butt . now it takes me less than 15 minutes to drain and fill my system so i actually look forward to doing it.

I love rapid rooters ..I toggle between them and small rockwool cubes. one thing to take into consideration that also aids in success is the water level under the net cup as with my grow I just lowered the level to about 1/4 inch under the cup for this phase so I dropped it about 1/2 inch , now my baskets have a planting deck I will post a picture if you like and that deck is by rough guesstimate 1 1/2 to 2" above the base of the cup/basket and prior to this wee the water level was about 1/4 inch below the deck.

Subbed.

 

[Delps8]

looks nice and healthy and really bushy! I would recommend pulling some fan leave to open her up for air flow and light to those lovely side shoots you have going on. I have been there with res maintenance in my time. I do it ever seven days 8 days max religiously as that way i know that my ladies have access to everything they need. The pain was figuring out a way to make the change just a step and not a pain in butt . now it takes me less than 15 minutes to drain and fill my system so i actually look forward to doing it.

I got mold in my Spring 2023 grow so I will remove some of foliage to reduce the chances of mold. This is the first day of flower, so it's very early in the process. As she goes vertical, I'll get a better idea of what I need to remove but, overall, my approach leans towards "leave it alone".

I don't remove leaves "to expose bud sites" no do I go to "leaf tucking". I have done both in the past but I can't make the argument that either practice helps the plant and I would not be surprised if, in fact, they are both counter productive.

I'd love to see the results from research about it.

Re. res maintenance - I started at weekly changes but that stopped pretty quickly for the simple reason that it defied logic that my plants needed me to swap out 26 gallons of nutes for a 10 day old plant.

After reading a couple of papers on res maintenance and learning a little bit about nutrient levels, I decided to go with the approach of topping off with RO and then replacing when the res was becoming unstable or when the amount that I'd "topped off" was equal to the volume of the res.

I love rapid rooters ..I toggle between them and small rockwool cubes. one thing to take into consideration that also aids in success is the water level under the net cup as with my grow I just lowered the level to about 1/4 inch under the cup for this phase so I dropped it about 1/2 inch , now my baskets have a planting deck I will post a picture if you like and that deck is by rough guesstimate 1 1/2 to 2" above the base of the cup/basket and prior to this wee the water level was about 1/4 inch below the deck.

Subbed.

I used rock wool for my grow in 2017 and then again in my first grow in 2021. After destroying a few sets of seeds in rock wool, I realize that it wasn't sufficiently idiot proof so I switched to the Super Sprouter and Rapid Rooters.

Re. water level - same here! I bought a SuperPonics tent kit back in 2017 and it came with a "how to use your tent" DVD. Part of the instructions for to set the water level to ½" below the net pot.

Do you leave it at the level through the course of a grow?

 

[No Pain]

I got mold in my Spring 2023 grow so I will remove some of foliage to reduce the chances of mold. This is the first day of flower, so it's very early in the process. As she goes vertical, I'll get a better idea of what I need to remove but, overall, my approach leans towards "leave it alone".

I don't remove leaves "to expose bud sites" no do I go to "leaf tucking". I have done both in the past but I can't make the argument that either practice helps the plant and I would not be surprised if, in fact, they are both counter productive.

I'd love to see the results from research about it.

I do it mainly to improve air circulation through the plant itself exposing bud sites runs parallel to that at times. In regards to stripping Leafs for yield its done on day 21 of flower and Umm 50 if I remember right . The documented method was called "three pounds per light" many grow facilities have adopted this method. I have done it but not to the extreme, again my focus is airflow to prevent stagnant air within the plant structure as well as mold. In my current journal I originally was not going to Scrogg them but the temptation was to great. lol I will use the method or my version during this grow as i have seen benefits and it will be a live example.

Re. res maintenance - I started at weekly changes but that stopped pretty quickly for the simple reason that it defied logic that my plants needed me to swap out 26 gallons of nutes for a 10 day old plant.

After reading a couple of papers on res maintenance and learning a little bit about nutrient levels, I decided to go with the approach of topping off with RO and then replacing when the res was becoming unstable or when the amount that I'd "topped off" was equal to the volume of the res.

In the beginning stages of growth I will let it go two weeks at least until i see they are really in a vegetative growth state with a root system to handle the nutrients and then I follow the manufactures weekly routine and instructions for the line that I use. For topping off I generally mix about 10 gallons extra for the res change and the first top off is full strength and then I dilute it by 50% and when that is gone I mix the next weeks batch and start topping off with that..I learned part of that for ch20 "current culture" the manufacture of my buckets . There are many different opinions as well as different situations that dictate res changes. In my opinion it is always best to follow the guidelines given by the manufacturer of the nutrients in regards to the type of system you are using.

I used rock wool for my grow in 2017 and then again in my first grow in 2021. After destroying a few sets of seeds in rock wool, I realize that it wasn't sufficiently idiot proof so I switched to the Super Sprouter and Rapid Rooters.

Ha i have been there with rockwool cubes. Then my sprouting tech evolved and it works 100% of the time for me regardless of rapid rooter, root riot or rockwool cubes. I presoak the seeds for 12-18 hrs then put them between some moist "thick" paper towels and put the plate in a nice dark place in the open air and make sure the paper towel always stays damp (i check it once a day) once the sprout has a tail of about 1/4" long I take a razor blade and slice whatever I'm using open , place the sprout in and then pierce it shut with a tooth pick.

Re. water level - same here! I bought a SuperPonics tent kit back in 2017 and it came with a "how to use your tent" DVD. Part of the instructions for to set the water level to ½" below the net pot.

Do you leave it at the level through the course of a grow?

No only after the second week of 12/12 do I drop the level below my basket , My baskets are different that your regular net cups as I have a planting deck which you could consider the bottom of your net cup and all the way up to the finish of that second week of 12/12 the water level is 1/4 inch from the bottom ..then at after the finish of that second week it is 1/4 inch below the entire basket and that would put the water level 2 inches below the planting deck or 2 inches below the base of your net cup.

 

[Ke0ncp]

Ohh I’m going to grab a seat on this grow! I know it’s going to be full of data!!

 

[Rick34]

looks nice and healthy and really bushy! I would recommend pulling some fan leave to open her up for air flow and light to those lovely side shoots you have going on. I have been there with res maintenance in my time. I do it ever seven days 8 days max religiously as that way i know that my ladies have access to everything they need. The pain was figuring out a way to make the change just a step and not a pain in butt . now it takes me less than 15 minutes to drain and fill my system so i actually look forward to doing it.

I love rapid rooters ..I toggle between them and small rockwool cubes. one thing to take into consideration that also aids in success is the water level under the net cup as with my grow I just lowered the level to about 1/4 inch under the cup for this phase so I dropped it about 1/2 inch , now my baskets have a planting deck I will post a picture if you like and that deck is by rough guesstimate 1 1/2 to 2" above the base of the cup/basket and prior to this wee the water level was about 1/4 inch below the deck.

Subbed.

15 minutes for a res change!? That's crazy!! what is the trick to it?

 

[No Pain]

15 minutes for a res change!? That's crazy!! what is the trick to it?

the rick is setting yourself up for success. Meaning set it up to the best of your ability to make it easy to do and not a painful chore(ive been there) .I have plumbed water and a drain pipe into my area. My res have a valve on the bottom and I have a hose connected to it ran to a pump that is connected to the drain pipe. Turn the valve ,turn on the pump and wait...i have a separate container ( 55 gallon heavy duty trash can) that i use to mix my nutes as well as a top off tank. I have a pump and chiller for the can turn it on the night before to let it reach the same temp as my system and bam when the system is drained I take the hose form the chiller of the can and fill my system

So 2 pumps, one chiller a garbage can and easy access to a drain and water line are the ingredients needed to make it super simple and efficient.

 

[gwhunran]

Good read. I like the idea of having a drain on the reservoir.

My reservoirs are doubled up 17 gallon plastic totes and they're pretty heavy when full.
I have a deepsink nearby, so I use a little electric fountain pump with a hose connected to it, long enough to reach the deep sink with a little slack built in. I just drop the pump in the reservoir with the hose connected and the other end running into the deep sink, and plug it in. It drains in about 10 minutes. I then drop the water hose into the reservoir and turn in on. I proceed to add my General Hydroponics nutes, PH down, CalMag+, and KoolBloom in flower. I get it done before the water reaches the full line. I just top up the res with tap water between changes. No sensors used in the res.

Colombian Gold. Last strain harvested under mentioned flood and drain hydro set up with 17 gallon reservoir.

 

[Rick34]

you guys got it figured out, res swaps were the most tedious part of my last grow. gonna head over to the hydro store and to get and extra pump with a hose. Thanks.

 

[Delps8]

I do it mainly to improve air circulation through the plant itself exposing bud sites runs parallel to that at times. In regards to stripping Leafs for yield its done on day 21 of flower and Umm 50 if I remember right . The documented method was called "three pounds per light" many grow facilities have adopted this method. I have done it but not to the extreme, again my focus is airflow to prevent stagnant air within the plant structure as well as mold. In my current journal I originally was not going to Scrogg them but the temptation was to great. lol I will use the method or my version during this grow as i have seen benefits and it will be a live example.

Hmm, day 50? That's today!

I have been removing some of the foliage and I can see how it's starting to open things up.

In the beginning stages of growth I will let it go two weeks at least until i see they are really in a vegetative growth state with a root system to handle the nutrients and then I follow the manufactures weekly routine and instructions for the line that I use. For topping off I generally mix about 10 gallons extra for the res change and the first top off is full strength and then I dilute it by 50% and when that is gone I mix the next weeks batch and start topping off with that..I learned part of that for ch20 "current culture" the manufacture of my buckets . There are many different opinions as well as different situations that dictate res changes. In my opinion it is always best to follow the guidelines given by the manufacturer of the nutrients in regards to the type of system you are using.

Usually can't go wrong with that!

Ha i have been there with rockwool cubes. Then my sprouting tech evolved and it works 100% of the time for me regardless of rapid rooter, root riot or rockwool cubes. I presoak the seeds for 12-18 hrs then put them between some moist "thick" paper towels and put the plate in a nice dark place in the open air and make sure the paper towel always stays damp (i check it once a day) once the sprout has a tail of about 1/4" long I take a razor blade and slice whatever I'm using open , place the sprout in and then pierce it shut with a tooth pick.

Interesting with the tooth pick. Never thought about that.

I've stubbed my toe on giving them too much water but I've never had that issue with RapidRooters.

No only after the second week of 12/12 do I drop the level below my basket , My baskets are different that your regular net cups as I have a planting deck which you could consider the bottom of your net cup and all the way up to the finish of that second week of 12/12 the water level is 1/4 inch from the bottom ..then at after the finish of that second week it is 1/4 inch below the entire basket and that would put the water level 2 inches below the planting deck or 2 inches below the base of your net cup.

So you're dropping the water level?

 

[Delps8]

Good read. I like the idea of having a drain on the reservoir.

My reservoirs are doubled up 17 gallon plastic totes and they're pretty heavy when full.
I have a deepsink nearby, so I use a little electric fountain pump with a hose connected to it, long enough to reach the deep sink with a little slack built in. I just drop the pump in the reservoir with the hose connected and the other end running into the deep sink, and plug it in. It drains in about 10 minutes. I then drop the water hose into the reservoir and turn in on. I proceed to add my General Hydroponics nutes, PH down, CalMag+, and KoolBloom in flower. I get it done before the water reaches the full line. I just top up the res with tap water between changes. No sensors used in the res.

Colombian Gold. Last strain harvested under mentioned flood and drain hydro set up with 17 gallon reservoir.

Very nice looking plants!

And you make it sound so easy! That's great that you've got it nailed down like that.

I'm more in your process but I've got 26 gallons in the res. I use a cistern for RO water and pump into a big grey trash can where I mix the nutes. Then swap the hoses to pump out the res into my backyard then switch them again to pump the fresh nutes from the garbage can into the res. That takes about 20 minutes, all told but there's always all sorts of other stuff to do, right?

 

[gwhunran]

but there's always all sorts of other stuff to do, right?

Not as much as you'd think. Most days when I've got a grow going, I'm just checking the PH and adjusting if necessary, and topping up the reservoir.
Oh, I almost forgot. A lot of time will be spent trying to get good pictures to post on 420 Magazine for your friends to see and ogle.
When the limbs start passing the screen, it gets busy tying them to the screen, and this last until "screens ready".
And then it gets real busy at harvest., but that's why we do it.

 

[bgsixxx]

Following this, also just grew glookies, harvested in mid dec. She was fire. Still savoring last lil bit. Got 5.5 ozs off 1st run, and 4 off 2nd. Grew in 2x4 sf tent kit, added 150watt hydroplan light. Or something like that. The pheno i had turned purple and had some nice frost, also was dense af. Nice strain. Cant really explain taste and flavor but i loved it. Dank

 

[No Pain]

Hmm, day 50? That's today

I have been removing some of the foliage and I can see how it's starting to open things up.

okay so day 21 and day 50 are of the flower phase . In veg with a nice thick beauty like you have i would still pluck leaves to promote good air flow. Nice to hear that you are plucking some and I'm certain you are seeing her pounce right back sticking her tongue out at you saying is that you you've got ! lol . I was extremely hesitant when i first started plucking for the greater good until I saw that kind of reaction from the plant . These things are like Mac trucks!

Usually can't go wrong with that!

No sir ! When I'm topping off more so when its a new strain that I'm dealing with and do not have any recorded data on how they feed I watch the uptake along with the rise or fall of ppm so I can have a general idea as to weather i need to make the next batch stronger or weaker.

Interesting with the tooth pick. Never thought about that.

I've stubbed my toe on giving them too much water but I've never had that issue with RapidRooters.

I've been there with the to much water and even dealing with it feeling like it too forever for the beans to come up ..then my methods evolved everything changed for me for the positive.

So you're dropping the water level?

yes sir currently and for the rest of this grow...you drop it at the end of the second week of 12/12. I believe the purpose behind this is to mimic the water table dropping (seasons starting to change).

 

[Delps8]

Day 54 above ground, week.day is 7.5, and it's day 7 of flower.

I really appreciate the comments from you folks. My last grow went out with a whimper but I'm expecting this one to turn out much better.

Betty is growing steadily but I had to check the pictures side by side (in the back of my mind that's coming out "side by each" which will get a chuckle from any Canadian readers). I've measured her every few days, and a week ago (±) she was 20" in diameter vs today where she's 24. And I think she started to stretch today.

My autos were nonstop, go go go, grow grow grow but my past three grows have been heavily LST'd photos vegged with a lot of blue light so they're very different looking plants. I really miss the quick growth of autos.

This time around, I'd say "lots of foliage" and "very compact" are appropriate descriptors. That's sort of like sayin "she has a nice personality".

In previous grows, I ran "bloom nutes" from drop to chop. Different strengths, of course, but same mix. For this grow, I decided to try the Bloom nutes that Jack's sells. It's a 10-30-20 fert and I figured I'd give it a shot. Can't hurt, right?

Be careful what you wish for.

The ferts might have worked magic (I cannot tell) but I ended up having to add Up at least three times a day. That gets old, quickly. pH has always dropped in flower in my grows but this was ridiculous, dropping from 6.0 at 2200 to 5.3 by 0700, for example. Lights are out until 1000 so the only way to add Up was via the inlet hose to the water chiller. Gotta figure out how to put in a shunt.

It took a week of dumping in Up to make me look forward to a res swap and that took place today. Back to stock Jacks's 3-2-1 for RO (plus some home made Protekt/SilicaBlast) and back to the same mixture. For the past few days, there's been some tip burn. I figure it's VPD so I dropped the PPM from 720/500 to 650/500. It's not easy to see something that's not happening but, if there's no new tip burn for the next day or two, I'll call it a win.

Removed some dead and dying leaves and a couple of really scrawny stems but no heavy defol.

20240218 - Day 48. Check the plants position vis a vis the net pot covers in this photo versus the one below, which was taken two days later.

Looking at the photo below, she grew about 2". Also, note the heater hanging above the light and the little Vivosun dehumidifier on the res. They're both gone.

Without heat, the tent temp will drop to about 70 at lights out. That heater will keep it at about 77° so I added the dehumidifier to try to control temp. After running that dehumidifier for 6 hours, it collected no water so I decided to switch gears.

A couple of weeks ago I was on the AC Infinity site and saw that they released a heater. It took about 0 seconds for me to order one but the site said that they weren't shipping until mid-March. Lucky for me, the UPS man dropped my box off a few days later!

The heater in this picture is 250 watts, all or nothing so it blasts out heat for a while then shuts down (and cools off) then fires up again, etc., etc. The C69 showed me that it would cycle on and off at two minute intervals.

I got the AC Infinity heater on Thursday, set up in a few minutes and everything went well.

Betty is a little too big for the standard iPhone camera (5 year old phone) so I took a wide angle shot. Not quite what I was expecting but some parts of it are in focus!

The iPhone updates just haven't done much for me but when I can't take a picture of your weed plants, something's gotta change!

Item 1 - a topped and LST'd cannabis plant resembles a <fill in the blank> because it has a hole in the center and all the foliage is around the periphery.

Item 2 - a cannabis grow light generates the greatest amount of light in the center and the lowest amount of light at the periphery.



20240224 First photo from today

20240224 - a little better photo. My POSSLQ called it a wreath. So far, that's about it.

From earlier today - the AC infinity heater is outside the tent, with just the vent tube coming in through one of the ports in the tent. The heater was dead easy to set up and almost everything is controlled from the app. The "almost" is because the heater will run in fan mode but you have to press buttons on the controller to change modes. Time to call ACI tech support about that - just play dumb and then ask why that's not in the app.

From the Waze tent cam today. Ironic that best picture from from the $30 the tent cam!

Light readings from yesterday. Very even canopy. Nice to see. And hope to see more in the future!

Day by day

 

[Delps8]

@Thirvnrob and I setting the trend in grower leisurewear!

 

[No Pain]

She looks good !! adjust ph through the chiller tube isn't bad and my pumps came with attachments that you could tap into a line it had a small diameter line that came off this splitter that was on a valve and the force of the water flowing through the splitter would syphon whatever you put the hose into in small amount. I can post a picture of what I'm talking about if your interested .

In regards to the ph drop if you are running beneficial bacteria and if I remember right you are, when they start dyeing off ph does drop quite a bit ,aside from that it could indicate a roots zone issue ..if those are in check then its carry on.

In regards to your night temp of 70 at night , its sounds fantastic to me and I personally wouldn't mess with it.

 

[Delps8]

She looks good !! adjust ph through the chiller tube isn't bad and my pumps came with attachments that you could tap into a line it had a small diameter line that came off this splitter that was on a valve and the force of the water flowing through the splitter would syphon whatever you put the hose into in small amount. I can post a picture of what I'm talking about if your interested .

In regards to the ph drop if you are running beneficial bacteria and if I remember right you are, when they start dyeing off ph does drop quite a bit ,aside from that it could indicate a roots zone issue ..if those are in check then its carry on.

In regards to your night temp of 70 at night , its sounds fantastic to me and I personally wouldn't mess with it.

I appreciate the offer re. a photo of a splitter.

Per the photo, I've added a T on the inlet (red = warm). That's a good way to drop a few gallons from the res but I need to put stuff into the res.

I'm using HydroGuard and, the water temp is 68° despite what the display shows on the chiller. I did a res swap yesterday and roots look good, they have the "fresh dirt" smell, and they're not slimy to the touch.



This is the same behavior I saw three years ago and I "jumped through hoops of flaming shit" to try to "fix" the issue.

One of the contributing factors was that I was was adhering to the WonderChart, as I call it (attached) and I ran around with my hair on fire until @FelipeBlu so kindly sent me a PM that explained it.

Here's a screenshot of the verbiage that he sent to some other poor bastard:

And his advice was completely in synch with this graphic.

The big driver for the Bloom nutes was the ammoniacal N but I also see pH dropping after every res swap or in the rare case that I add nutes between res swaps.

What blindsided me was the amount and frequency of how much Up I was adding. I've had to resort to bumping pH to, say, 6.2 just before lights out. Even with that, I had a pH of 5.4 one morning.



Re. 70 - what's are the pros and cons of dropping temperature like that? I think I read that the delta impacts height but I'm sketchy on that and it was offered without explanation or evidence so I didn't document it. :-(



My reasons for keeping temps up - within limits, higher temp leads to high levels of growth, it's easier to keep VPD in range at higher temps, and those higher temps allow me to drop my RH. The last thing I was is lower temps and higher RH.

Losing my 2301 grow to bud rot was a real PITA. If I lose this crop, I either wait till I grow more weed or I buy weed locally and weed here in SoCal is incredibly pricey. I just checked the price on a site that does delivery and the cheapest weed is $350 with premium strains at $650. Knock of $$ for the fact that it's delivery and we're still in the nosebleed prices!

 

[No Pain]

I just happened to be in the garden and I took the picture before I saw this. when you put it through the chiller doesn't it balance out the res meaning your res is circulating through the chiller right ?

That is a Great chart ! The reason I bring up the beneficial bacteria is because I went through the same thing and it mainly happened during the flowering phase and drove me batty. when I redesigned things and stopped using beneficial bacteria, guess what happened, lol . A more normal fluctuation. I will see if I can located the article that takes about that.