Grow five, same problem every grow

[Ancient Green]

that one's definitely lost in translation

Here is the Mumpty translated properly. (mon petite = mumpty to my ears as a kid). Not sure how we drifted here, but I had to get this figured out. I even called my family to ask about it...

My grandmother was like a great wizard casting a spell... Magic words in french below, it works too !

mon petit moustique----

 

[SmokingWings]

Yes, all of my grows start off with a little discoloration at week 6 and it seems very tough to stop once it begins. My fan leaves are all getting roasted now and I dont expect them to last much longer. So, I was hoping to have slowed this down but I'm not sure..

The best I have come up with is to start the 'flowering' feeding a couple of weeks before the light switching for photoperiod plants and or when autoflowers start to show that they are getting ready.

Once flowering starts the plants slow down new root growth. There still is some but it is minimal. And with the start of flowering the plant will slow down and stop the growth of new fan leaves which is where most of the storage of extra nutrients will be. The growth of smaller 3 finger leaves and sugar leaves is still going on big time but I figure the plant is not using them for storage so much as the green that is where photosynthesis will continue to take place.

I left fan leaves on this grow without lollipopping, heavy defoliation etc.. The idea was to have some leaves to feed my plant if I had problems week 6. (last grow I defoliated heavily). I expect that ALL of the fan leaves will be falling off in a week or two. If I can slow this down and stop it from getting to my flowers, I might get something to smoke this grow.

I have started to do the final transplanting at 2 to 3 weeks before my targeted flowering light change and start to feed 'flowering' fertilizers at the same time. I am figuring now that the plant will continue to accumulate extra, N, P, and K but I want to allow it to have as much of the micro nutrients is a good idea.

Related is the Phosphorous discussion. Does the plant really need all that much once flowering starts? Maybe not but providing some P along with the N and K at the 2 or 3 week before flowering might be good idea. The plant stores the excess for later but one of the interesting things I came across when looking up P and what a plant does with it shows that it is good for strong stem development.

And, one of the common questions from newer growers is 'how do they get strong stems that will continue to stand up under heavy buds'.

If I can slow this down and stop it

I have not come up with a way to stop the yellowing once it starts. The plant does not seem to be geared that way. Best I am doing is getting the plant to delay the color change so it does not start until the 4th or 5th week after the light change over to 12/12. Plus, I am noticing that different plants have their own schedule. The Sativa dominant plants do change faster and will look really rough within a couple of weeks while the Indica dominant plants react well to starting the flowering feed early and holding off on turning yellow.

And feeding with water soluble sources of Nitrogen and Potassium seems to help. Waiting for the micro-organisms to digest the water 'in-soluble form' of the nutrient is probably no longer an option for the current growing.

 

[Ancient Green]

The best I have come up with is to start the 'flowering' feeding a couple of weeks before the light switching for photoperiod plants and or when autoflowers start to show that they are getting ready.

Im a little paranoid when it comes to salt buildup and over feeding, probably to the point that I underfeed now. I'll keep this in mind for my next grow and will be increasing feed at the start of flower from now on. I also plan to use Cal mag, but thats a long story

Once flowering starts the plants slow down new root growth. There still is some but it is minimal. And with the start of flowering the plant will slow down and stop the growth of new fan leaves which is where most of the storage of extra nutrients will be. The growth of smaller 3 finger leaves and sugar leaves is still going on big time but I figure the plant is not using them for storage so much as the green that is where photosynthesis will continue to take place.


I have started to do the final transplanting at 2 to 3 weeks before my targeted flowering light change and start to feed 'flowering' fertilizers at the same time. I am figuring now that the plant will continue to accumulate extra, N, P, and K but I want to allow it to have as much of the micro nutrients is a good idea.

I hear you, I like fresh soil for the roots to use when starting flower and also transplant a week or so before flipping 12/12. In this case, I went from 1 gallon to 3 gallons before flipping flower. (2 weeks before 12/12)

Related is the Phosphorous discussion. Does the plant really need all that much once flowering starts? Maybe not but providing some P along with the N and K at the 2 or 3 week before flowering might be good idea. The plant stores the excess for later but one of the interesting things I came across when looking up P and what a plant does with it shows that it is good for strong stem development.

This is an interesting topic, but it seems that the majority of folks do use Bloom Nutrients now ( high doses of P and K). I had originally planned to feed 3-1-2 this entire grow. The problem for me is that I'm a newbie and almost all feed charts/schedules use bloom nutrients. I just didnt have anything to follow and doubling up 3-1-2 seemed risky to me. So, I went 50/50 and started to feed P and K.

And, one of the common questions from newer growers is 'how do they get strong stems that will continue to stand up under heavy buds'.

I have not come up with a way to stop the yellowing once it starts. The plant does not seem to be geared that way. Best I am doing is getting the plant to delay the color change so it does not start until the 4th or 5th week after the light change over to 12/12. Plus, I am noticing that different plants have their own schedule. The Sativa dominant plants do change faster and will look really rough within a couple of weeks while the Indica dominant plants react well to starting the flowering feed early and holding off on turning yellow.

This is interesting as well because plant normally yellow late flower, its normal to see this. BUT you have to know whats normal (sensescence) and whats not. My grow definately had problems too early, probably just too little feed.

And feeding with water soluble sources of Nitrogen and Potassium seems to help. Waiting for the micro-organisms to digest the water 'in-soluble form' of the nutrient is probably no longer an option for the current growing.

I've kinda given up on the microbes for now, way too many unknowns. I have been using recharge and great white this grow, but I dont like the fact that I dont really know what it does, how long it lasts on the shelf, etc... I wouldnt purchase recharge again, who knows if the "life" in that little package is actually alive and I dont feel like figuring it out either.

Unfortunately, I'm giving up on this grow tonight, half way through week 6 flower. The plant is looking great but the odor is really coming in strong and I dont feel like worrying about it for another 3-4 weeks...Its a shame too, week 6.5 of flower is NOT a good time to harvest this strain ! (Im not sure I'll even bother to cure and save the buds..)

I'll start another grow after working on my grow cabinet ventilation and odor removal.. Weed is so cheap where I live now, I'm not really that worried about it. I grow more as a hobby and to have fun. It sure would have been fun to see this plant in week 9 flower though, I bet the colas would have been monsters.

So, chop chop time is tonight after 16 weeks of growing this, No bud for me!

 

[SmokingWings]

Im a little paranoid when it comes to salt buildup and over feeding, probably to the point that I underfeed now. I'll keep this in mind for my next grow and will be increasing feed at the start of flower from now on.

While there can be a buildup of salts with any fertilizer it happens more often with the chelated fertilizers than those which produce the nutrients from a natural source.

I start the use of a flowering fertilizer about 2, sometimes 3, weeks before the plant is put into a light schedule that starts flowering. The thought is that the slight uptick in flowering nutrients will be built up and ready when the plant starts to demand them as the buds start to actively develop.

This is interesting as well because plant normally yellow late flower, its normal to see this. BUT you have to know whats normal (sensescence) and whats not. My grow definately had problems too early, probably just too little feed.

Normal? Yes and no. Most annual plants go through a senescence stage towards the very end but when I look at just about any annual being grown outside the level of deterioration is no-wheres near what is seen on indoor grown gardens. I do not think it is best to accept the levels of senescence we notice on trees and shrubs as being what we should accept on our annuals. The trees & shrubs are shutting down for the winter so they naturally strip the leaves of any usable nutrients and store it in the trunk, branches and roots while letting the leaves die and fall off. Annuals are not coming back so they should last as long as possible towards the end as they are producing flowers/seeds for future generations.

Plus, I feel that these heavy levels of senescence towards the end will produce weaker plants. Weaker plants will naturally attract trouble like pest insects and mildews & molds. Outdoors it is not as much of a problem since the weak plants attract the problems which means that the stronger or healthier plants will be better able to resist the problems.

I've kinda given up on the microbes for now, way too many unknowns. I have been using recharge and great white this grow, but I dont like the fact that I dont really know what it does, how long it lasts on the shelf, etc... I wouldnt purchase recharge again, who knows if the "life" in that little package is actually alive and I dont feel like figuring it out either.

As soon as we accept the use of compost, wormcastings or mineral dirts and soils in our growing pots then we are dealing with micro-organisms...lots of them. They are the ones doing all the work when it comes to what is in the soil that the plants will be using. Picked up this tidbit on amounts of microorganisms in soil while doing a search on something else:

Microbes are central to all life on Earth due to their huge diversity in form and function. In soils, one teaspoon of topsoil contains around 1 billion individual microscopic cells and around 10,000 different species.

That is only what is in a teaspoon. Think about how many of the little buggers in a gallon of soil, even the Coco Loco..

The plant is looking great but the odor is really coming in strong and I dont feel like worrying about it for another 3-4 weeks...Its a shame too, week 6.5 of flower is NOT a good time to harvest this strain ! (Im not sure I'll even bother to cure and save the buds..)

I know the feeling. Early on I would cure and save it all. Now, it is a different story. If I try something and it does not work out the way I was hoping or if the plant starts to look weak and sickly towards the end then I send it on its way to the great compost pile in the sky.

 

[bluter]

let it finish. decent bud will always reek. you can get it to the end. you're not too far out or messed up to fold. the experience will always help if nothing else.

 

[Ancient Green]

let it finish. decent bud will always reek. you can get it to the end. you're not too far out or messed up to fold. the experience will always help if nothing else.

Before I can grow, I really need to get the odor under control. I had plans to seal a few gaps, possibly install a second carbon filter etc... but got lazy and never got around to it. So now, I'm paying the price for my laziness. I knew this was coming too !

I chopped the middle bud last night and installed a brand new cabon filter, if I can seal it up and keep the odor down I might keep this going a while longer, but I doubt it. Oddly, I vaped a little of the freshly cut bud last night to see if it had any effect and was pleasantly surprised. It was a very pleasant mellow high at 6.5 weeks. If I have to chop, it wont be a total loss. I will be sad not to see these colas at their fullest though, as you know all the weight and potency comes in the next few weeks..

 

[Ancient Green]

While there can be a buildup of salts with any fertilizer it happens more often with the chelated fertilizers than those which produce the nutrients from a natural source.

I start the use of a flowering fertilizer about 2, sometimes 3, weeks before the plant is put into a light schedule that starts flowering. The thought is that the slight uptick in flowering nutrients will be built up and ready when the plant starts to demand them as the buds start to actively develop.

So, I could write a book here but wont. I think you hit the nail on the head here though. I'm pretty sure that Ive learned that plants need a LOT of food in flower, much more than Veg. Your tip to feed early is a great one and I'll try it next grow. It makes sense, after flipping 12/12 the growth really skyrockets, I'm sure the plant needs more food than I'm providing. So, my fear of salt buildup is doing more harm than good !

Side note, after upping the nutrients and calmag, my buds are looking really healthy now. The older fan leaves are damaged, but all the colas look great.

Normal? Yes and no. Most annual plants go through a senescence stage towards the very end but when I look at just about any annual being grown outside the level of deterioration is no-wheres near what is seen on indoor grown gardens. I do not think it is best to accept the levels of senescence we notice on trees and shrubs as being what we should accept on our annuals. The trees & shrubs are shutting down for the winter so they naturally strip the leaves of any usable nutrients and store it in the trunk, branches and roots while letting the leaves die and fall off. Annuals are not coming back so they should last as long as possible towards the end as they are producing flowers/seeds for future generations.

Plus, I feel that these heavy levels of senescence towards the end will produce weaker plants. Weaker plants will naturally attract trouble like pest insects and mildews & molds. Outdoors it is not as much of a problem since the weak plants attract the problems which means that the stronger or healthier plants will be better able to resist the problems.


As soon as we accept the use of compost, wormcastings or mineral dirts and soils in our growing pots then we are dealing with micro-organisms...lots of them. They are the ones doing all the work when it comes to what is in the soil that the plants will be using. Picked up this tidbit on amounts of microorganisms in soil while doing a search on something else:

I understand a bit about microbes and life in soil. My point earlier was than I'm not going to focus on it for now. No mollasses, Recharge, Great white etc... Just let the soil do its thing without messing around. There are way too many unknowns when it comes to the life of the soil. I even tried to research products like Great White, Mycos and recharge and a lot of it seems like hocus pocus to me.

That is only what is in a teaspoon. Think about how many of the little buggers in a gallon of soil, even the Coco Loco..

I know the feeling. Early on I would cure and save it all. Now, it is a different story. If I try something and it does not work out the way I was hoping or if the plant starts to look weak and sickly towards the end then I send it on its way to the great compost pile in the sky.

Yeah, its pretty painful to stop this grow so close to the finish line, especially after 16 weeks. I love this bud too, the high is a favorite of mine. None of the dispensery buds I buy can touch the high of these buds. I was really looking forward to a few ounce of this. (this is my fourth grow of this strain, I really love it)

I'm sitting around 25 feet away now, and can smell a slight odor.... Not good ! I'm using Turpentine to cover the odor, god knows how bad that is.

Wife "Why does the laundry room smell honey?" "Ohh, I had to clean some paintbrushes".. Turpentine smells a lot like Northern Lights too... Turpentine = smell of terps ! I bought turpentine for this reason only. Crazy that this is a low odor strain, I cant imagine what others grows smell like


Pics from tonight, if only they could have a few more weeks.

 

[bluter]

Crazy that this is a low odor strain, I cant imagine what your alls grows smell like

usually with just one plant it's not bad. as long as there is decent ventilation and a carbon scrubber most of the odour should get carried away. anything larger than a plant or two is generally a good idea to scrub and vent outdoor.

 

[Chuckeye]

@Ancient Green

Be a shame to chop now, that is a good looking plant....

And not that hungry looking !

Just saying

 

[Ancient Green]

@Ancient Green

Be a shame to chop now, that is a good looking plant....

And not that hungry looking !

Just saying

Thanks, yeah I've been feeding her like shes on the TV show my 600 pound life. Double feed every watering. I just wanted to see what happens over feeding instead of underfeeding. I think this plant may be a bit much for the small 3 gallon pot, who knows.

I'm hanging in there with odor, I may try to seal things up a bit more, but lets be honest, we all know the odor will only get worse. Dam I hate these weeks.

 

[Ancient Green]

usually with just one plant it's not bad. as long as there is decent ventilation and a carbon scrubber most of the odour should get carried away. anything larger than a plant or two is generally a good idea to scrub and vent outdoor.

I'm in a metal safe, if I can seal things up properly, I'd like to think I could get this smell proof.. But that will have to be the next grow... Yep, I'm only growing one plant at a time too.

 

[JiggiLotus]

I love the smell! I'd rather walk into my house and smell that lovely skunk than the normal dank house smell
If they made a perfume with that cannabis gas skunkiness.... Hook me up! Signature smell baby

 

[JiggiLotus]

The best I have come up with is to start the 'flowering' feeding a couple of weeks before the light switching for photoperiod plants and or when autoflowers start to show that they are getting ready.

Once flowering starts the plants slow down new root growth. There still is some but it is minimal. And with the start of flowering the plant will slow down and stop the growth of new fan leaves which is where most of the storage of extra nutrients will be. The growth of smaller 3 finger leaves and sugar leaves is still going on big time but I figure the plant is not using them for storage so much as the green that is where photosynthesis will continue to take place.


I have started to do the final transplanting at 2 to 3 weeks before my targeted flowering light change and start to feed 'flowering' fertilizers at the same time. I am figuring now that the plant will continue to accumulate extra, N, P, and K but I want to allow it to have as much of the micro nutrients is a good idea.

Related is the Phosphorous discussion. Does the plant really need all that much once flowering starts? Maybe not but providing some P along with the N and K at the 2 or 3 week before flowering might be good idea. The plant stores the excess for later but one of the interesting things I came across when looking up P and what a plant does with it shows that it is good for strong stem development.

And, one of the common questions from newer growers is 'how do they get strong stems that will continue to stand up under heavy buds'.

I have not come up with a way to stop the yellowing once it starts. The plant does not seem to be geared that way. Best I am doing is getting the plant to delay the color change so it does not start until the 4th or 5th week after the light change over to 12/12. Plus, I am noticing that different plants have their own schedule. The Sativa dominant plants do change faster and will look really rough within a couple of weeks while the Indica dominant plants react well to starting the flowering feed early and holding off on turning yellow.

And feeding with water soluble sources of Nitrogen and Potassium seems to help. Waiting for the micro-organisms to digest the water 'in-soluble form' of the nutrient is probably no longer an option for the current growing.

So I've been seeing on my plant these things y'all been talking about throughout the threads. My question is, is it ok when you notice healthy roots finding their way to the top of the soil? Like around the stem? I tend to add soil over them, I just wasn't sure if this is a normal occurrence or if the roots are searching for somewhere to be..

 

[bluter]

I'm in a metal safe, if I can seal things up properly, I'd like to think I could get this smell proof.. But that will have to be the next grow... Yep, I'm only growing one plant at a time too.

you'll need to provide for fresh air getting in and an exhaust vent to carry it to outdoor.

bottling stuff up only makes it worse by having the odour build up over time. the odour will seep into other materials in the house and become permanent.

if you vent to outdoor it's easier to be odour free growing in a tent in the house than it is in an enclosed space if you don't.

 

[Ancient Green]

So I've been seeing on my plant these things y'all been talking about throughout the threads. My question is, is it ok when you notice healthy roots finding their way to the top of the soil? Like around the stem? I tend to add soil over them, I just wasn't sure if this is a normal occurrence or if the roots are searching for somewhere to be..

Im far from an expert as you can tell from my grow, but all of my grows show roots at the top of the soil after a while. I cant put a finger in if that makes sense. Its all good though, I just bury them with a few inches of soil so that they dont dry out and have more room to grow up. Always leave a few inches empty at the top of your pot just in case you need to add m ore soil later...

Side note: there does seem to be a vertical limit to how hight roots grow.... Ive noticed that there is a stopping point even if you add more soil. (In short, they only grow upwards to a point, then like magic stop completely...)

I do the same thing with seedlings, only fill the pot halfway with soil. If the seedling gets too long, I have room to bury the long stem...

 

[Ancient Green]

Nirvana Northern Lights= All bud and tops, no gangly long stems. Just pure colas. I love this strain !

If I can make it a few more weeks, (I'm really trying all)--- This plant should have 8 football size colas weighing over 2.5 ounces wet each. This all in a 16 inch by 16 inch by 24 inch space and only 100 watts of light.

Stupid odor, I really want to show this to everyone.

 

[Ancient Green]

you'll need to provide for fresh air getting in and an exhaust vent to carry it to outdoor.

bottling stuff up only makes it worse by having the odour build up over time. the odour will seep into other materials in the house and become permanent.

The way I have my fan connected to my filter may be sucking air directly from the cabinet by passing the filter. In other words, I need to seal the Fan to the filter better.. I also have a lock that leaves a big gap, allowing the odor to move from the right side of the cabinet to the left. There is a big gaping hole that can let odor escape. I planned to fix this, but am a Lazy b.

I have a second fan and filter too, but adding it to the top of my grow cabinet will arise too much suspicion.

if you vent to outdoor it's easier to be odour free growing in a tent in the house than it is in an enclosed space if you don't.

Yes, I had planned to hire an HVAC guy for a quote to have a fan and vent installed outdoors. My grow cabinet is in a basement and happens to be a few feet from where the Dryer vents go outside. All I need to do is install a fan (like you see in a bathroom) and I'll be ready for stinky strains !!! I really want to grow some OG Kush, a personal favorite.

Problem is, I started veg, got lazy and never got around to calling the HVAC guys or sealing my cabinet properly.

 

[bluter]

Side note: there does seem to be a vertical limit to how high roots grow.... Ive noticed that there is a stopping point even if you add more soil. (In short, they only grow upwards to a point, then like magic stop completely...)

roots air prune themselves. they won't grow into open oxygen. that's why they stay a few cm under the media surface. the ones that get exposed at the top near the base will thicken into anchor roots over time, the others wither and prune off.

I do the same thing with seedlings, only fill the pot halfway with soil. If the seedling gets too long, I have room to bury the long stem...

it's a good practice

The way I have my fan connected to my filter may be sucking air directly from the cabinet by passing the filter. In other words, I need to seal the Fan to the filter better.. I also have a lock that leaves a big gap, allowing the odor to move from the right side of the cabinet to the left. There is a big gaping hole that can let odor escape. I planned to fix this, but am a Lazy b.

so you don't have a standard scrubber can on a purpose built exhaust fan ?

I have a second fan and filter too, but adding it to the top of my grow cabinet will arise too much suspicion.

what is the issue ? do others have access ? there are different living situations that force us to adapt. it can help to know what you are facing.

Yes, I had planned to hire an HVAC guy for a quote to have a fan and vent installed outdoors. My grow cabinet is in a basement and happens to be a few feet from where the Dryer vents go outside.

there are turn key solutions. the most common set up here is a tent in the laundry room that ties in to the dryer vent. they make adapters specifically for it.

All I need to do is install a fan (like you see in a bathroom) and I'll be ready for stinky strains !!! I really want to grow some OG Kush, a personal favorite.

yeah, everyone could use a decent exhaust. i have a massive old snail i use in the flower space..

you can see it there. it's older tech meant for a much larger space but is a good example of a fan and scrubber set up.

my veg space uses a much smaller fan which would be great for your space...

i have a scrubber attached to the fan in the pic. something like that would be the perfect size for you.

Problem is, I started veg, got lazy and never got around to calling the HVAC guys or sealing my cabinet properly.

it's not about sealing it up. it's about dealing with the air, proper circulation, and exhausting correctly.

 

[Ancient Green]

roots air prune themselves. they won't grow into open oxygen. that's why they stay a few cm under the media surface. the ones that get exposed at the top near the base will thicken into anchor roots over time, the others wither and prune off.






it's a good practice





so you don't have a standard scrubber can on a purpose built exhaust fan ?

Yes, I have an AC Afinity 4 inch fan, and a 4 inch carbon filter. The fan goes directly into the carbon filter, no duct used. I think I may be able to use plumbers putty to seal the filter to the fan, its very possible the fan is pulling air from the grow cabinet without going through the charcoal...

I have no idea where the heart came from either, It wasnt from valentines day.. its pretty crazy that Ive made it through four harvests now. The safe is covered in a blanket and boxes when not in use. You'd never know its there.

The fan runs on the left side of my cabinet attached to a bending 4 inch elbow that sends exhaust out a four inch hole. The elbow and exhaust are not sealed well, due to me being a lazy a$$... Maybe I can seal these too, we'll see. Its a bit late in flower to be messing with this now, and I knew I had work to do...

what is the issue ? do others have access ? there are different living situations that force us to adapt. it can help to know what you are facing.

Long story, dont ask. Lets just say, Its legal to grow where I live and isnt at the same time.... Thats all I can say. The US has their heads up their ass when it comes to weed if you ask me.

I also have teenagers that I'm keeping my hobby secret from. I'd rather they work on getting an education now and would not like them smoking weed. They dont need to know Dad is doing it or growing it. I'm all for weed, but for our youth, I'm not too sure. It sure wasnt good for me when I was a teenager.

there are turn key solutions. the most common set up here is a tent in the laundry room that ties in to the dryer vent. they make adapters specifically for it.




yeah, everyone could use a decent exhaust. i have a massive old snail i use in the flower space..

Pic below is like mine, the carbon filter is attached directly to the fan (If I'm seeing this correctly)... Is that DUCT tape as well? I think this may be what I'm missing... (or use plumbers putty--- which I may try tonight)//

you can see it there. it's older tech meant for a much larger space but is a good example of a fan and scrubber set up.

my veg space uses a much smaller fan which would be great for your space...

i have a scrubber attached to the fan in the pic. something like that would be the perfect size for you.

So, I have another fan and 4 inch carbon filter, not in use. Ive considered installing it in my safe as a scrubber as you mention. I'm just not sure if I have space to do this though, maybe I'll try tonight. My second fan is not spead controllable, so it would be running full blast which might be a lot for such a small space.

it's not about sealing it up. it's about dealing with the air, proper circulation, and exhausting correctly.

 

[SmokingWings]

I'm pretty sure that Ive learned that plants need a LOT of food in flower, much more than Veg. Your tip to feed early is a great one and I'll try it next grow. It makes sense, after flipping 12/12 the growth really skyrockets, I'm sure the plant needs more food than I'm providing.

We tend to get fooled by the way the plant's growth changes in the early flowering stage.

In my case I put the plant in the flowering tent and wait about 5 to 7 days for the average one to start showing a tightening up of the growing tips followed by the first pale white stigma/pistils to begin growing. Then in another week or two I might notice that there are no new 5 or 7 finger fan leaves; just a few 3 finger growing out of the buds here and there mixed in with small sugar leaves. Naturally we, as gardeners, seem to figure that all the new growth is just a bunch of buds and some small leaves.

What I feel many of us are missing is that there is just as much new growth, maybe more, as there was during the height of the vegetating stage. Instead of the new being thick stems with large fans leaves it is narrow stems and lots of small green plant parts.

The big thing is that we are missing that all that new flowering stage growth is green. Green sugar leaves and the occasional 3 finger fan leaf, the new stems with the buds, and then there is a lot of new green growth all over the buds. The more buds we see the more green there is and it seems like most of us miss that.

Anything green on the flowering plant will need Nitrogen. Nitrogen is not just for growing new leaves during the early stage. Internally in the plant it is needed for the development of the genetic code for the plant, it helps with the movement of nurtients and water from the roots to the top growth. And, it necessary for photosynthesis which is necessary to the life of the plant. In the end, we have to realize that the plant needs more Nitrogen than many growers and even the fertilizing companies had been thinking years ago.

Same sort of thing is happening with the Potassium which is needed for the movement of water and nutrients, has a role in the production and use of carbohydrates and proteins and has a role in photosynthesis. Potassium is needed and used for the overall health of the plant.