Herbshuttles Indoor Coco Coir Purple Kush Grow

Azamax says every 10-14 days for drench and once a week for spray, but says nothing about mixing with other products which is what I read you're supposed to do on the second treatment. I'll send a pic in a few
 
Yeah, very deep green color like that plus hooking at the tips means, I think, that you are just over the upper limit for nitrogen, which is funny since most nutrient charts really pull back on N as you go into flower (or your plant does ;)).

I'd suggest either reducing the nitrogen in the mix, or if you are already using Nebula Haze's coco chart at the How to Grow Cannabis in Coco Coir page at her site, reduce the concentration. (I use 60% of what she recommends for my daily feedings.)

But that's just fine-tuning. Your flowers are looking good! :)

In my world, I just opened my tent for the first good look in a week (a potential shortcoming of a fully automated system--less daily attention) and saw that I have a calcium deficiency (characteristic brown spots) and probably even a little bit of magnesium deficiency too. Oops! A lot can happen in a week, especially when feeding diluted nutes. So I'm mixing up a 5-gallon bucket of Late Bloom nutes with 25 milliliters of CALiMAGic. That should fix it!
 
You know, looking at how quickly my coco grow went from fine to deficient, it occurred to me that there is a serious difference between soil and coco in that coco's nutrient reserve is only what you've given it recently; it's not like soil, which has an intrinsic buffer of nutrients. So if you wait eight days to replenish the nutes when you should have done it at six, and maybe the plant actually needed it at five, a growing plant can run out of gas just like that and voila, you go from perfectly healthy to having noticeably yellow or mottled leaves seemingly in a matter of days.

Couple that with an automated watering system and a busy schedule so you're not gazing at the plant every day, and things can go seriously wrong.

I think that's especially problematic when using dilute nutrient solutions like I have been. You use dilute nutes because you're feeding every day and you need diluted nutes so you don't overfeed, but if the nutes in the reservoir go from diluted to nothing in the reservoir, which they can easily do, you have problems.

Still learning...
 
I don't use nebul hazes, I use the drain to waste charts by GH and use 3/4 of what they suggest. Right now I'm only giving the girls 3/4 of a mL of grow nutes per gallon which I thought was pretty low. Maybe I tone down the micro use as well and only use any non nitrogen nutes
 
Just for reference, in early bloom I was mixing up recirculating five-gallon batches that lasted for a week of daily feedings of:
CALiMAGic: 2.5 ml/gallon (100% of Nebula's recommendation)
FloraMicro, FloraBloom: 2.5 ml/gallon (65% of Nebula's recommendation)
FloraGro: 1.25 ml (gallon) (65% of Nebula's recommendation)
 
Yeah see I used same micro, less gro and more bloom. Idk why nitrogen toxicity is showing up. Also regarding the mites, is mixing formulas like azamax and nuke em beneficial or harmful? Not sure I'm going to spray as I'm now on my second day of flowering and I just don't trust that it won't effect my buds
 
Me, I wouldn't spray anything on what I'm going to actually consume. Even if it is organic and safe, I just don't like the idea of it. Maybe just spray the lower levels? Your flowers are looking good, so there's that.

Probably more important than using multiple agents is using one correctly, consistently, and for a long time. You wanna keep the pressure on, so that even if you don't wipe out every last bug, you at least knock their numbers ways down.

And of course anything you can do to make the environment less hospitable to critters (moisture control is always a big one) that helps too.

BTW, I think it was you who pointed out to me the FloraMicro has more N than FloraGro...

Meanwhile, chez moi, I ran the pump twice this morning to give my Ca and Mg deficient plants an extra big dose of fresh nutes to try to get them back on track, and I am going to be checking them every day for the next couple of weeks until harvest. I'm frankly embarrassed that I let things get out of control from simple inattention--like I'm some stupid stoner or sumpin. ;)
 
Oh wow you're right I completely forgot. Idk why I started thinking gro would have had more. So I'll cut down on the micro then forsure
 
For the mites, I agree. I may just spray the lower branches, but even those have flowering parts. I guess I'll continue the azamax alone but I was told to add different treatments because the mites are resilient. Yesterday I wiped the sides of the pots down and probably took out a couple thousand that repopulated the area. Maybe less but def took out hundreds.
 
For the mites, I agree. I may just spray the lower branches, but even those have flowering parts. I guess I'll continue the azamax alone but I was told to add different treatments because the mites are resilient. Yesterday I wiped the sides of the pots down and probably took out a couple thousand that repopulated the area. Maybe less but def took out hundreds.
Yikes, well mechanical removal works too.
As for using more than one "cidal agent," they do it with drugs so why not with pesticides?
As for cutting down on one bottle or another, I use all of them in the recommended rations but reduce all three...
 
So I noticed many trichomes are milky instead of clear. I thought they gradually turn milky then amber? Hairs are white but look like they are changing soon. Only start of week 5 of flower.
 
In my experience, you will see some trichomes that are cloudy before others, but it's the majority that counts.
Also, a lot of my trichs looked cloudy with my camera's macro lens, but when I look at the trichs with a loupe (higher mag and resolution), there are many more clear ones.
Again, just in my experience, as long as buds are growing and thickening and sprouting new pistils, it's too early to harvest.
Also, although the seed suppliers flowering time estimates aren't 100%, they are helpful. If it say X weeks and you're at X-3weeks, you're probably early.
As usual, Nebula Haze's site has great info about trichs and when to harvest.
My girl is getting pretty close, I think--maybe 10 days left? She's sticky, and consuming about 20 PPM of nutes a day.
 
I was going to start flushing around week seven and harvest week 8 or a few days later, ONLY IF 70% of hairs have changed color, trichs are 50-70 milky/amber and everything else looks right. Definitely will not be harvesting anytime soon I was just surprised to see the milkyness. However with a stronger loupe I did notice smaller clear ones.

On another note, I'm 99.99% sure I identified the exact mite I have. tyrophagus putrescentiae. Not finding much about them online with cannabis.
 
Today is the first day of the 6th week of flowering. Ran into this problem (pics below) yesterday and did a nice 10 gallon flush on each plant. Today it hasn't seemed to change much. Thought maybe the flushing would help but anybody know what could be the source of the problem?






 
U have knats in ur grow area?
No flyers or larvae (at least I have not seen any at all). I have mites along the fabric pots and maybe coco which I'm 99% sure are tyrophagus putrescentiae (I've been observing them through a micro) and plus they aren't in the leaves (I've searched for days and hours and hours and hours and only saw one that I feel like was lost lol. They eat mold and other shit in the coco and the stuff that builds up on the outside of the fabric pots and apparantly aren't bad for the plants. Either way I've done multiple dunks and sprays on the pots and always wipe them off when I see more of them building up. I've had them since late vegetation (probably had them earlier) and this leaf problem only just arose yesterday morning. And the day before it happened i forgot to water (coco needs water everyday) so I believe that might have helped.


Should add that they are 100% not spider mites. They don't look anything like spider mites and there are no webs, mites under leaves, buds etc.
 
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