Jamaican Pearl

A week later...



Purple Maroc below filling out nicely after the stretch upward...


 
My two Jamaican Pearls have been in flowering for about three weeks now. The first three photos are of JP and were taken yesterday. The fourth photo is of my single Mexican Sativa, which is at about the same stage. These are pretty much pure sativa strains, though crossed with others and technically they are slightly hybridic. The last photos are of the Purple Maroc that ripened while I was away on vacation, photos of the top buds. All plants had adequate water and looked great after a month on Blumat watering system.









 
The Purple Maroc had finished by September 30 and I harvested her on October 1. She'd been germinated June 25, so she went from seed to harvest in 3 months and 1 week. And early flowering strain, she has a NL auto crossed in somewhere in the background. This year, given the late start in June, she started flowering around August 12 (germinate PM in April and she start flowering in early July). She is now drying, leaving me to tend 2 Jamaican Pearls and 1 Mexican Sativa, of which the buds are coming along nicely.

The Jamaican Pearls and the Mexican Sativa (all Sensi) are now about 4 weeks into flowering. First 4 photos are of Jamaican Pearl, and the first two of these are from the LST'd plant that I grew more or less in a circle until her branching shot upwards. The second two are from the big tall Jamaican Pearl that didn't fimm well so I bend her top over finally.





This last one is of Mexican Sativa:

 
Jamaican Pearl: I chopped the larger plant, JP1, which was a week or so older than the second JP, two days ago. Did not take pre-chop photos, unfortunately, but I have to say the strong side branches coming out her at lower mid-stem were just huge, and the colas on these branches reached up high, almost high as the fimmed top buds. Buds on these side branches were, if anything, larger than the four apical buds. Trichomes were about 10% clear, 65% milky, 25% amber. Late in flower was strong smelling, more of a diesel than sweet! Not having grown a nearly "pure" sativa before (JP is about 85% sativa), I did some reading and decided it was time. The yield was huge, I can only imagine how tall she would have gotten if I had not fimmed her.

The second Jamaican Pearl is taking her time. As I may have mentioned, this plant was LST'd very early on to keep her short for stealth reasons, grown during her first weeks in a semi-circle around the edge of the pot. Then she put up vertical branches that stretched. Trichomes today look about 40% clear and 60% milky, almost no amber. She gives off a sweet grapefruity aroma. She needs a few more days, maybe even a week.

The photos below are from JP2, taken today. (I'll post about Mexican Sativa in a second post).

Here is an overall view of JP 2:

Next a close up of some of the buds:




 
Mexican Sativa: This plant was topped about two weeks before she went into flower and has been a happy camper even in the cold late October weather. Temperatures were in the mid-20s until Oct 25 when a cold spell hit, taking it down to even 0 at night one night this week. As Sensi promised, neither JP nor MS is finicky about the cold late in flowering. Trichomes still mostly clear and/or milky, I will let her go at least another week, maybe longer.





 
Hope all is well in your world.

How did this grow turn out?

We would love to be updated with some pictures and info.

How about posting a 420 Strain Review?

If you need any help with posting photos, please read our Photo Gallery Tutorial.

I am moving this to Abandoned Journals until we get updates.

Sending you lots of love and positive energy.

:Namaste:
 
Well, I've been enjoying the Mex-Sat and JP so much I just plain forgot about this thread I posted so much on. I'll post a final conclusion for this grow in a day or so. Thanks for the reminder! Be well!
:goodjob:
 
As mentioned way back in the opening post, I was looking for sativa strains that could grow outdoors in Europe and ripen for harvest in late October or early November. Alongside 1 Mexican Sativa and 1 Purple Maroc (see photos above), I selected Sensi's feminized Jamaican Pearl and grew two JPs, germinated June 20.

June 20 is already late in the season to start a grow, but given the long flowering time needed for JP, I thought I could start them later, in mid-June, with at least 4 weeks left before the days shorten enough to trigger bud formation. In hindsight, the plants had about 8 weeks of veg, or until the end of August. I thought they would veg as long as they needed and would start flowering immediately on reaching maturity, whenever that was going to be. "Flowering as soon as possible" in the strict sense. Efficient use of the plant's time, no excess veg time and maybe less chance for pests or disease. I also had one complication -- a month's vacation away from home in September -- which I tried to deal with by setting up the plants so that they would not get overly dry (I used two or more pots inside each other for each plant) and a watering system to get them enough water while I was away (use of Blumats, a ceramic vessel implanted in the soil that transfers water as needed).

One seedling, the first to pop, was incredibly vigorous and needed room to put down roots. I used a foot-long cylinder for her and she pushed right through. She was so vigorous I had to fimm her three times -- and finally I still had to bend and tie down her topmost growing point -- before she slowed the vertical top growth and pushed out into a bushier shape. For stealth reasons, I wanted her to keep a low profile. If I had not repeatedly fimmed her and tied her down, she would have gotten huge and too tall. The second JP was not topped or fimmed. I used LST in her seedling stage to grow her in a circle around the rim of the pot she was in. After a first few weeks, she was about halfway round and then I let her go. She produced about 10 separate branches with large colas.

Vegetative in July and August, fimming was done at 6th node on the first plant. Both JPs started pre-flowering in late August, with flowering beginning around September 1. Stretching was mainly in the side branches on the first larger fimmed plant, since her apical tip was tied down lower. Both plants put out many side-branches. The side branches on both plants were thick and strong, putting out huge colas. Generally with this strain, the side branches were amazingly thick and strong and produced larger colas than I've seen on side-branches with any other strain.

Yield: 100 grams on the larger plant, about 50 grams on the shorter one.

The aroma was fairly strong, a fruity citrus and mango, with a hint of diesel, and it grew stronger and more intense in the weeks right before harvest. Buds quite sticky with resin.

I had no issues with mold or fungus or pests on this strain. The weather was sunny and warm all summer but in mid-October the temperatures dropped suddenly to near 0 C -- my Jamaican Pearls were not affected by the cold. I let the trichomes go until they were around 60% milky-cloudy, 30% amber on the first, larger FIMMed plant, JP1. The second JP went on for about 5 days beyond the first, and her trichomes were about 50% milky-cloudy and 35% clear and just a touch of amber, maybe 10%.

My Jamaican Pearl smoke report would be that this is the best weed I've ever smoked. JP1 has more amber and has more body to it than JP2. JP2 has more clear trichomes than JP1. That difference aside, the high from Jamaican Pearl is remarkable because is just makes you feel good, this is an intensely uplifting, happy feeling. No head impairment, no couch lock, just energy and intense good feeling that puts me in a happy and thoughtful mood. That said, this is pretty strong weed and can be over used, half a joint being enough for me. The effect from the first JP is an uplifting and energetic head high, exhilarating, with a very relaxing and slightly spacey feeling that settles into a body glow, which I attribute to her having more amber trichomes and more THC. Overall, the feeling is like the warmth of sunshine on your back after a plunge in the ocean. It is a comforting warm buzz. The second JP had less amber and gives a clearer head high, less spacey. This JP2 is a "lighter" JP effect than the first, maybe because it has more clear trichomes, but the high is as good if not better than JP1. If Mexican Sativa is a 7 on the strength scale, my first JP is a 9 and the second JP is an 8.

The single Mexican Sativa -- the only seed of 5 that popped -- was also not a disappointment. Not quite as strong as the JP, but it has a balanced, clear-headed sativa high, not too strong and not too weak. Mex-Sat doesn't have the same intense euphoric rush, it is a little less euphoric, but a great weed and good for anytime use.

I would grow both strains again.

PS the Purple Maroc was a beautiful plant right to the end. Then I blew it by watering those last days before harvest and not drying sufficiently before jarring. Mold resulted.
 
Hope all is well in your world.

Thanks for sharing this grow with us.

Please head over to the 420 Strain Reviewsforum and post your smoke report there too.

I’m moving this to Completed Journals now.

Have you started a new grow you would like to share with us?

If so, please feel free to start a new journal here: Journals in Progress

Sending you lots of love and positive energy.

:Namaste:
 
As mentioned way back in the opening post, I was looking for sativa strains that could grow outdoors in Europe and ripen for harvest in late October or early November. Alongside 1 Mexican Sativa and 1 Purple Maroc (see photos above), I selected Sensi's feminized Jamaican Pearl and grew two JPs, germinated June 20.

June 20 is already late in the season to start a grow, but given the long flowering time needed for JP, I thought I could start them later, in mid-June, with at least 4 weeks left before the days shorten enough to trigger bud formation. In hindsight, the plants had about 8 weeks of veg, or until the end of August. I thought they would veg as long as they needed and would start flowering immediately on reaching maturity, whenever that was going to be. "Flowering as soon as possible" in the strict sense. Efficient use of the plant's time, no excess veg time and maybe less chance for pests or disease. I also had one complication -- a month's vacation away from home in September -- which I tried to deal with by setting up the plants so that they would not get overly dry (I used two or more pots inside each other for each plant) and a watering system to get them enough water while I was away (use of Blumats, a ceramic vessel implanted in the soil that transfers water as needed).

One seedling, the first to pop, was incredibly vigorous and needed room to put down roots. I used a foot-long cylinder for her and she pushed right through. She was so vigorous I had to fimm her three times -- and finally I still had to bend and tie down her topmost growing point -- before she slowed the vertical top growth and pushed out into a bushier shape. For stealth reasons, I wanted her to keep a low profile. If I had not repeatedly fimmed her and tied her down, she would have gotten huge and too tall. The second JP was not topped or fimmed. I used LST in her seedling stage to grow her in a circle around the rim of the pot she was in. After a first few weeks, she was about halfway round and then I let her go. She produced about 10 separate branches with large colas.

Vegetative in July and August, fimming was done at 6th node on the first plant. Both JPs started pre-flowering in late August, with flowering beginning around September 1. Stretching was mainly in the side branches on the first larger fimmed plant, since her apical tip was tied down lower. Both plants put out many side-branches. The side branches on both plants were thick and strong, putting out huge colas. Generally with this strain, the side branches were amazingly thick and strong and produced larger colas than I've seen on side-branches with any other strain.

Yield: 100 grams on the larger plant, about 50 grams on the shorter one.

The aroma was fairly strong, a fruity citrus and mango, with a hint of diesel, and it grew stronger and more intense in the weeks right before harvest. Buds quite sticky with resin.

I had no issues with mold or fungus or pests on this strain. The weather was sunny and warm all summer but in mid-October the temperatures dropped suddenly to near 0 C -- my Jamaican Pearls were not affected by the cold. I let the trichomes go until they were around 60% milky-cloudy, 30% amber on the first, larger FIMMed plant, JP1. The second JP went on for about 5 days beyond the first, and her trichomes were about 50% milky-cloudy and 35% clear and just a touch of amber, maybe 10%.

My Jamaican Pearl smoke report would be that this is the best weed I've ever smoked. JP1 has more amber and has more body to it than JP2. JP2 has more clear trichomes than JP1. That difference aside, the high from Jamaican Pearl is remarkable because is just makes you feel good, this is an intensely uplifting, happy feeling. No head impairment, no couch lock, just energy and intense good feeling that puts me in a happy and thoughtful mood. That said, this is pretty strong weed and can be over used, half a joint being enough for me. The effect from the first JP is an uplifting and energetic head high, exhilarating, with a very relaxing and slightly spacey feeling that settles into a body glow, which I attribute to her having more amber trichomes and more THC. Overall, the feeling is like the warmth of sunshine on your back after a plunge in the ocean. It is a comforting warm buzz. The second JP had less amber and gives a clearer head high, less spacey. This JP2 is a "lighter" JP effect than the first, maybe because it has more clear trichomes, but the high is as good if not better than JP1. If Mexican Sativa is a 7 on the strength scale, my first JP is a 9 and the second JP is an 8.

The single Mexican Sativa -- the only seed of 5 that popped -- was also not a disappointment. Not quite as strong as the JP, but it has a balanced, clear-headed sativa high, not too strong and not too weak. Mex-Sat doesn't have the same intense euphoric rush, it is a little less euphoric, but a great weed and good for anytime use.

I would grow both strains again.

PS the Purple Maroc was a beautiful plant right to the end. Then I blew it by watering those last days before harvest and not drying sufficiently before jarring. Mold resulted.
Great journal on a great outdoor grow! Glad the product was so killer, though I ain't surprised based on the photos.

Nice work!

Grow on!
 
Yes great journal and awesome results. The Mexican Sativa looked really laden with resin, and the smoke report of the JP1 is envy inducing!
I was really interested in your approach to using the aeration cylinder for the seedling, that being tall it allowed the roots to fully express themselves downward, which surely must be of a benefit more than the usual short pots that have the young roots hitting the bottom and usually growing in circles a bit before being transplanted up to the next size pot. I initially wondered whether there was any risk that the roots instead of growing down may attempted to outwards and thru the aeration mesh holes, it was just a thought, but I guess the part of the cylinder above the soil would avoid that with air pruning, but anyway it clearly worked out well and they went straight down to the bottom so great lateral thinking there! I will look into your approach on watering when my next year's grow comes around, appears to have worked very well for your plants.
 
Yes great journal and awesome results. The Mexican Sativa looked really laden with resin, and the smoke report of the JP1 is envy inducing!
I was really interested in your approach to using the aeration cylinder for the seedling, that being tall it allowed the roots to fully express themselves downward, which surely must be of a benefit more than the usual short pots that have the young roots hitting the bottom and usually growing in circles a bit before being transplanted up to the next size pot. I initially wondered whether there was any risk that the roots instead of growing down may attempted to outwards and thru the aeration mesh holes, it was just a thought, but I guess the part of the cylinder above the soil would avoid that with air pruning, but anyway it clearly worked out well and they went straight down to the bottom so great lateral thinking there! I will look into your approach on watering when my next year's grow comes around, appears to have worked very well for your plants.

Thanks for that Stunger. Actually, it's not my usual approach to use such a tall cylinder (usually the cylinder is only about 4 or 5 inches tall). But generally I do use the aeration cylinder now for a few years. At the time I was thinking so many growers use a solo cup which doesn't let much air in for the roots that need air, and doesn't let the water evaporate as well, either. I can say that this works well for seedlings, and I am using the same method again this year.

I only got the idea to set the JP1 into that very tall cylinder because that specific JP seed, right out of the box, was so incredibly vigorous, it pushed through the rooter in 2 days.

But on the question of why the taproot went straight through, I think it is pretty well established that your cannabis taproot most always will go straight down as far as it can, not sideways. It's like the tiny plant immediately explores its environment and wants to know right away how big it will be able to become. Had I put that plant in the ground it would have gotten absolutely huge, which is of course something I cannot have in my stealth grow on my terrace. JP1 was an exceptionally vigorous plant in veg, I have to laugh when I think my problem was getting her to slow down and stay a bit shorter. A problem most of us are happy to have.
 
Thanks for that Stunger. Actually, it's not my usual approach to use such a tall cylinder (usually the cylinder is only about 4 or 5 inches tall). But generally I do use the aeration cylinder now for a few years. At the time I was thinking so many growers use a solo cup which doesn't let much air in for the roots that need air, and doesn't let the water evaporate as well, either. I can say that this works well for seedlings, and I am using the same method again this year.

I only got the idea to set the JP1 into that very tall cylinder because that specific JP seed, right out of the box, was so incredibly vigorous, it pushed through the rooter in 2 days.

But on the question of why the taproot went straight through, I think it is pretty well established that your cannabis taproot most always will go straight down as far as it can, not sideways. It's like the tiny plant immediately explores its environment and wants to know right away how big it will be able to become. Had I put that plant in the ground it would have gotten absolutely huge, which is of course something I cannot have in my stealth grow on my terrace. JP1 was an exceptionally vigorous plant in veg, I have to laugh when I think my problem was getting her to slow down and stay a bit shorter. A problem most of us are happy to have.
I share the same mind regarding air for the roots. I read lots of very positive accounts of 'air pruning' and the benefits to a stronger root structure when there is good aeration for the roots. For my current grow I started the sprouted seeds into approx 4 liter/1 gallon pots and then a single transplant into the final pots. For all pots I drilled holes for aeration and fashioned simple liners made out of landscape fabric, they breathed and held the soil in the drilled pots. When I transplanted there were many many white points of roots tips, everywhere, whereas in the previous grow the roots wrapped around with lots of circling, this time I saw none of that, zero, just lots and lots of roots tips. The tall cylinder seemed to work really well, an inspired choice for how vigorous the JP1 turned out to be. I wish I could use deeper containers for my grows but growing on a balcony I am height constrained, I even buried the stems about 5 inches when I transplanted which helped keep the height down too. However it makes sense that when the roots have freedom and space to fill that the yield would be superb.
Yes I think the tap root would/should always go straight down fine, it would be very bad luck if went sideways early and grew a lot out the cylinder mesh only to be damaged in getting it out for transplant.
Was the JP1 a female or regular seed? It sounds like a superb batch of seed it came from.
 
I share the same mind regarding air for the roots. I read lots of very positive accounts of 'air pruning' and the benefits to a stronger root structure when there is good aeration for the roots. For my current grow I started the sprouted seeds into approx 4 liter/1 gallon pots and then a single transplant into the final pots. For all pots I drilled holes for aeration and fashioned simple liners made out of landscape fabric, they breathed and held the soil in the drilled pots. When I transplanted there were many many white points of roots tips, everywhere, whereas in the previous grow the roots wrapped around with lots of circling, this time I saw none of that, zero, just lots and lots of roots tips. The tall cylinder seemed to work really well, an inspired choice for how vigorous the JP1 turned out to be. I wish I could use deeper containers for my grows but growing on a balcony I am height constrained, I even buried the stems about 5 inches when I transplanted which helped keep the height down too. However it makes sense that when the roots have freedom and space to fill that the yield would be superb.
Yes I think the tap root would/should always go straight down fine, it would be very bad luck if went sideways early and grew a lot out the cylinder mesh only to be damaged in getting it out for transplant.
Was the JP1 a female or regular seed? It sounds like a superb batch of seed it came from.

I've seen info on those the air-pruning pots and they seem to be a brilliant idea. Never tried them.

Sensi Jamaican Pearl is only available in feminized. It is a great strain for climates that get cold in the fall.

As I noted in the opening posts, I had several goals in using the aeration cylinder: air to the roots, min 10 gal container as final home, and water retention deep in a large pot because I was absent from the Jamaican Pearl grow for a whole month and used Blumats as well to supply water while I was away. I also wanted to avoid damage to roots when transplanting seedlings, hence a large hole in the bottom of the first pot the cylinder was in.

Below some photos of my 2019 semi-guerilla grow in California just starting out. A method that works for me.

The top shelf of the panty maintains an ideal germination temperature of 75-77 F (24-25 C), and inside the plastic apple box (Fuji apples came in it) the temperature stays at 80F when the lid is closed. Soaked seeds 24 hours and put the seeds in a moist paper towel. After the seeds pop and show a taproot (doesn't need to be long, just poking out) I gingerly place that seed taproot pointing down into a 1-2 cm slice in the rooter. I use the rooters upside down with a slice in the pointy tip (I also poke a tiny hole vertically just to give an easy path). This year I had a lot of unresponsive seeds, so I kept adding seeds to the mix and am just now seeing more response. Now I have a Critical Mass (The Plant freebie from Santyerbasi), a G-13 Haze (Barney's Farm) and now this morning there was a Jack F1 (Spliff) newly showing cotyledons.

After the cotyledons appear, I put the rooter in the aeration cylinder and pack it in seedling soil. First I locate a lid from an old glass jar and place the mesh cylinder into the lid. Fill in about an inch of seedling soil for new room to grow beneath the rooter (am using Foxfarm Light Warrior) and then set the rooter with root showing on the bottom side onto the soil. Then more Light Warrior around the sides, leaving room to top up as the seedling grows to give the stem some support. When it comes time to transplant into a larger ceramic pot for seedling growth, I will carefully set the lid+mesh onto a half-filled 2 Liter pot and slide the lid out of the way without losing much soil out the bottom. When the plant has nicely occupied the 2L pot, can go into larger. Finally will transfer to a 15 gal fabric pot.

Currently am using a 25 watt LED ("100 W equivalent") to grow the seedlings early morning and evenings, during the day they are in sunlight.


 
I've seen info on those the air-pruning pots and they seem to be a brilliant idea. Never tried them.

Sensi Jamaican Pearl is only available in feminized. It is a great strain for climates that get cold in the fall.

As I noted in the opening posts, I had several goals in using the aeration cylinder: air to the roots, min 10 gal container as final home, and water retention deep in a large pot because I was absent from the Jamaican Pearl grow for a whole month and used Blumats as well to supply water while I was away. I also wanted to avoid damage to roots when transplanting seedlings, hence a large hole in the bottom of the first pot the cylinder was in.

Below some photos of my 2019 semi-guerilla grow in California just starting out. A method that works for me.

The top shelf of the panty maintains an ideal germination temperature of 75-77 F (24-25 C), and inside the plastic apple box (Fuji apples came in it) the temperature stays at 80F when the lid is closed. Soaked seeds 24 hours and put the seeds in a moist paper towel. After the seeds pop and show a taproot (doesn't need to be long, just poking out) I gingerly place that seed taproot pointing down into a 1-2 cm slice in the rooter. I use the rooters upside down with a slice in the pointy tip (I also poke a tiny hole vertically just to give an easy path). This year I had a lot of unresponsive seeds, so I kept adding seeds to the mix and am just now seeing more response. Now I have a Critical Mass (The Plant freebie from Santyerbasi), a G-13 Haze (Barney's Farm) and now this morning there was a Jack F1 (Spliff) newly showing cotyledons.

After the cotyledons appear, I put the rooter in the aeration cylinder and pack it in seedling soil. First I locate a lid from an old glass jar and place the mesh cylinder into the lid. Fill in about an inch of seedling soil for new room to grow beneath the rooter (am using Foxfarm Light Warrior) and then set the rooter with root showing on the bottom side onto the soil. Then more Light Warrior around the sides, leaving room to top up as the seedling grows to give the stem some support. When it comes time to transplant into a larger ceramic pot for seedling growth, I will carefully set the lid+mesh onto a half-filled 2 Liter pot and slide the lid out of the way without losing much soil out the bottom. When the plant has nicely occupied the 2L pot, can go into larger. Finally will transfer to a 15 gal fabric pot.

Currently am using a 25 watt LED ("100 W equivalent") to grow the seedlings early morning and evenings, during the day they are in sunlight.


I was unable to obtain airpots here in NZ, but I felt that holes drilled in pots with a crudely stapled together liner made of breathable landscape fabric worked very well. The resulting root growth seemed especially vigorous when I was able to check during transplanting. You have obviously got a good working routine that gives great results that you can continue to innovate and improve on.

When you are using the 25 Watt LED, are you bringing the plants inside each day then back out for sunlight or is there a light outside that you use with a timer? I have no experience in indoor growing/lighting.

Regarding unresponsive seeds. Previously when I had been struggling with germinating some old poorly stored seeds I read of how scuffing the outside of the seed prior to a 12-24hr soak could sometimes assist where the seeds are very strong or have become hardened with age, that the scuffing can help. So now each time I go to germinate by soaking overnight in a glass of water I first lightly/gently scuff the outside of the seed, fine sandpaper or a nail file would do. It doesn't seem to do any harm and probably mimics some of the scuffing that the seed would get in nature as it falls to the ground etc.
 
I was unable to obtain airpots here in NZ...

When you are using the 25 Watt LED, are you bringing the plants inside each day then back out for sunlight or is there a light outside that you use with a timer? I have no experience in indoor growing/lighting.

Regarding unresponsive seeds. Previously when I had been struggling with germinating some old poorly stored seeds I read of how scuffing the outside of the seed prior to a 12-24hr soak could sometimes assist ...

I think your idea to use the landscaping fabric is obviously a good way to go. It's like a fabric pot, only the fabric is probably much thinner. I use the fabric pots in California where the grow's irrigation is on a timer, so always enough water (because fabric pots let in so much air the soil will dry out fairly quickly).

I've never grown indoors, only outdoors. This year I thought what the heck I'll use a low level LED to supplement the daylight during the seedling phase. I bought it on amazon for $23, nominally "100W" (but it uses only 25W). But it is amazing the effect on the seedlings, deep dark green growth. I read that daylight in Spring has more blue frequencies and blue is what stimulates green growth, hence the blue in the LED is good for veg.

But another plus is the bulb I bought actually has much more red than blue frequencies. My original thought was I can use it to flower a male apart from the outdoor grow so the girls don't get pollinated. Also if the weather in the Fall is too cold or wet I can use the light indoors for the last days or weeks of flowering.

Thanks for the scuffing tip. I had heard that and have even been trying to scuff them before soaking, but am never sure just how hard I should scrape it. Don't want to damage them. Maybe I was too soft on them. Anyway, of the 15 seeds I tried this year I now have 5 seedlings and maybe more on the way. Seeds don't come with a guarantee, it's safer to have too many than too few.

PS if you are inclined to try Sensi's Jamaican Pearl or their Mexican Sativa, I can heartily recommend. The Mexican Sativa is said to have many phenos and you never know which you'll get. Jamaican Pearl is pretty stable and you might like that one very much, pretty strong and uplifting sativa, about 85%.
 
I think your idea to use the landscaping fabric is obviously a good way to go. It's like a fabric pot, only the fabric is probably much thinner. I use the fabric pots in California where the grow's irrigation is on a timer, so always enough water (because fabric pots let in so much air the soil will dry out fairly quickly).

I've never grown indoors, only outdoors. This year I thought what the heck I'll use a low level LED to supplement the daylight during the seedling phase. I bought it on amazon for $23, nominally "100W" (but it uses only 25W). But it is amazing the effect on the seedlings, deep dark green growth. I read that daylight in Spring has more blue frequencies and blue is what stimulates green growth, hence the blue in the LED is good for veg.

But another plus is the bulb I bought actually has much more red than blue frequencies. My original thought was I can use it to flower a male apart from the outdoor grow so the girls don't get pollinated. Also if the weather in the Fall is too cold or wet I can use the light indoors for the last days or weeks of flowering.

Thanks for the scuffing tip. I had heard that and have even been trying to scuff them before soaking, but am never sure just how hard I should scrape it. Don't want to damage them. Maybe I was too soft on them. Anyway, of the 15 seeds I tried this year I now have 5 seedlings and maybe more on the way. Seeds don't come with a guarantee, it's safer to have too many than too few.

PS if you are inclined to try Sensi's Jamaican Pearl or their Mexican Sativa, I can heartily recommend. The Mexican Sativa is said to have many phenos and you never know which you'll get. Jamaican Pearl is pretty stable and you might like that one very much, pretty strong and uplifting sativa, about 85%.
Re the scuffing of seeds prior to soaking; I only do a light gentle abrasive scuff, fine sandpaper would be fine, I use fine nail file.

Great use of the LED to supplement the early outdoor growth. I have no working knowledge of using lights but I am interested in a stealth grow cabinet, altho here in NZ it would have to be home made, as I don't think anything like that can be bought into the country unfortunately.

I will certainly keep those Sensi Jamaican Pearl and Mexican Sativa in mind, they sound impressive, and the results look great in your pictures.
 
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