Jandre2k3's Cardboard Flower Box - Test 5: ScrOG Part Deux

DankyDavid said:
Anyone want to explain that diagram to me? As if you were using it to explain to me how to prune a cannabis plant and why?
Click to expand...

I'll do my best... In this diagram you see here, two types of pruning:
  1. Topping
  2. *FIM*ing

In the first type, Topping, we remove the whole crown of upper growth, taking off the entire thing. This forces the two growth nodes below to grow upward and make two separate new tops, or "Kolas".

In the second type, F.I.M. (Fuck, I missed!) the cut is higher, and through the middle of the top crown. This is done -just- above the four growth nodes within. The product of this type of pruning actually can cause up to four new kolas from the one stalk, This is desirable as it can actually increase yield per stalk by up to three times more than where a single stalk would be. - - It's not four because the new stalks that grow are a bit smaller in girth than the single stalk would be, but by sacrificing that singular girth, the plant will give more sites for more flowers to grow, thus producing more bud...

Make sense?
 
If I topped the plant 3 different times and then tried to FIM all those kolas.

The first top would give me two. then topping those gives me four. then topping those four gives me 8. then I go one last round at the right time and try to FIM all 8. If I successfully FIM those 8 I would then have a possible 32 medium but Nice Kolas for that single plant. If it was a good large yielding strain and those 32 kolas were then scrogged during flower I could easily see each kola producing 14grams average or 2lb dry yield for that single perfectly pruned plant.
Wouldn't each of these individual kolas would have to be watched and any possible little branches trying to grow off them need to be pruned through out the rest of the veg cycle, to allow them to turn into 32 perfect kolas that are fully flowered? Is their a prunning technique that would promoted budding sites? How does that all work? I am a Newbie in this area.


Or would it be better to top twice then attempt the FIM for the third pruning round?
 
DankyDavid said:
If I topped the plant 3 different times and then tried to FIM all those kolas.

The first top would give me two. then topping those gives me four. then topping those four gives me 8. then I go one last round at the right time and try to FIM all 8. If I successfully FIM those 8 I would then have a possible 32 medium but Nice Kolas for that single plant. If it was a good large yielding strain and those 32 kolas were then scrogged during flower I could easily see each kola producing 14grams average or 2lb dry yield for that single perfectly pruned plant.
Wouldn't each of these individual kolas would have to be watched and any possible little branches trying to grow off them need to be pruned through out the rest of the veg cycle, to allow them to turn into 32 perfect kolas that are fully flowered? Is their a prunning technique that would promoted budding sites? How does that all work? I am a Newbie in this area.


Or would it be better to top twice then attempt the FIM for the third pruning round?
Click to expand...

Too much, way too much... unless you're ScrOG-ing. And now I read you then ScrOG them. yes, that's it. I would weave these under the net, and let the buds run up through... That way any little branches coming off those become part of the "of green" part of the style of growing. Realize though, that doing this severely impairs the height of the plant, but if ScrOG-ing that's not a problem.
 
jandre2k3 said:
Too much, way too much... unless you're ScrOG-ing. And now I read you then ScrOG them. yes, that's it. I would weave these under the net, and let the buds run up through... That way any little branches coming off those become part of the "of green" part of the style of growing. Realize though, that doing this severely impairs the height of the plant, but if ScrOG-ing that's not a problem.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I guess my thought was focusing on consistency, control and ultimately high yields.. more for a commercial minded grower.
If I was to grow I wouldn't fuk around...lol I would most certainly start off with 4 rooms designated for their own perpetual grow space and two flower rooms would need to at least to have 5 4'x4' grow spots(15' x 10') with our IGRO684 centered over each grow space. That would be my starter until I would be able to do it legally or moved somewhere where I could grow on a large scale commercial site like Colorado. I would hope to produce a minimum of 24ounces dry per 4'x4' space. Using a DWC system.

How many plants would you put inside of each of the 4'x4' sections for the flowering? Why?

Anyways I am just stoned and rambling...lol I could easily move that much out here! Just chatting until these lights get finished with qc.
 
DankyDavid said:
Yeah, I guess my thought was focusing on consistency, control and ultimately high yields.. more for a commercial minded grower.
If I was to grow I wouldn't fuk around...lol I would most certainly start off with 4 rooms designated for their own perpetual grow space and two flower rooms would need to at least to have 5 4'x4' grow spots(15' x 10') with our IGRO684 centered over each grow space. That would be my starter until I would be able to do it legally or moved somewhere where I could grow on a large scale commercial site like Colorado. I would hope to produce a minimum of 24ounces dry per 4'x4' space. Using a DWC system.

How many plants would you put inside of each of the 4'x4' sections for the flowering? Why?

Anyways I am just stoned and rambling...lol I could easily move that much out here! Just chatting until these lights get finished with qc.
Click to expand...

24 oz per 4x4 is a bit much... unless you have at least 8' of vertical space, and are growing outside. Inside you're looking at less than a pound (16 ounces or less).

As for the number of plants for a 4x4, it would depend on the type of plant they are... if they're nice and bushy/tree-like, I'd have maybe 4 whole, and tall plants. If they're really leggy, I'd have as many as 12 per 2foot square. So like 48 for that space in a Sea of green scenario. If somewhere in between, nice tight nodes, but still a little weak to hold them up, a scrog of 2 plants would be best, I think.

It all really depends on the genetics of the plants grown.
 
I suppose I could technically do 4'x5' space sense that is the flowering footprint for my large model.
Many strains you can get 450grams a Square Meter. That is only 10.75 squarfeet. So 24 ounces would be 675 grams or 1.5 square Meters or 4'x4' area. But ....this is if the grow is done it optimal conditions from an experienced grower. I still don't see a problem with that. I have never really done anything in my life half assed and never needed much of a learning curve either. I see myself doing that..especially with the cheating help of money(high credit card limits..lmao) to buy whatever you need to make it all automated and ideal.


Wll if anyone wants to move to Connecticut hit me up. Im looking into getting my medical card soon..which is a start fro me I guess.
 
[h=2] Par Spectrum 101[/h]
[h=2] [/h] For millions of years plants have evolved to grow under one central light source: the sun. As the earth's position shifts throughout the year, plants are exposed to various amounts of light per day.

During the winter months plants receive only 10-12 hours of sunlight, while during the summer they receive approximately 16 hours of sunlight (varies by location). These changes in daylight length are what cause a plant to alternate from vegetative growth into flowering. When fruiting plants receive 14-16 hours of light (spring and summer) they enter the vegetative stage, however when sunlight drops to approximately 12 hours per day (late summer and fall), they enter bloom.
The sun emits a full-spectrum white light, most of which is unused by plants. Over time plants have evolved like people, to respond to light between the wavelengths of 400-700nm, which is known as the PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) region. Even though plants receive the same spectrum year-round under the sun, over time they developed sensitivities to individual wavelengths of light they utilize better than others. These wavelengths are the Holy Grail for plant grow lights, as they supply over 90% of the energy used for photosynthesis by Chlorophyll A and B during both the vegetative and bloom stages.




[h=2]Photosynthesis and LED Grow Light Spectrum[/h] Chlorophyll A and B are the two primary compounds responsible for photosynthesis. These compounds absorb wavelengths of light with the highest efficiency at 439nm and 469nm blue, and 642nm and 667nm red. Aside from Chlorophyll A & B, there are other accessory light-harvesting pigments, most notably carotenoids, which absorb light with the highest efficiency at 439nm and 483nm blue. The other less noted pigments such as xanthrophylls, account for less than 5% of the energy supplied for photosynthesis, and absorb small quantities of light in the 480nm — 620nm region. Since Chlorophyll A & B along with Carotenoids supply over 95% of the energy necessary for photosynthesis, these are the only wavelengths a properly-tuned LED growing light should focus on for the greatest results.
Testing has shown that the only horticultural lights capable of creating such fine-tuned spectral outputs are full spectrum LED lights. By focusing the nm output of each LED to a corresponding wavelength absorption point (like 642nm), the rates of photosynthesis can be increased dramatically over HID lighting. Testing has also shown that if you do not focus directly on the wavelength absorption point (ie: using a 625nm or 630nm instead of 642nm) you will have dramatically lowered rates of photosynthesis by comparison. For these reasons you want to focus on making sure whichever grow light you purchase comes as close as possible to 439nm, 469nm, 483nm, 642nm, and 667nm.




[h=2]LED Grow Lights: Replacing the Mighty HID[/h] For decades humans have attempted to re-create nature indoors, using primarily high pressure sodium (HPS) and metal halide(MH) lighting as illumination sources to replace the sun. Humans have also taken it upon themselves to separate which spectrum (blue or red) to use for the plant whether in veg or flower, regardless of the fact that plants receive the same spectrum year-round beneath the sun. Using a grow light with excessive amounts of blue during veg however, will only over-saturate them with blue light while starving them of vital colors like red needed for photosynthesis. Improperly tuned lights such as these create stress responses within your plants which lead to morphed growth. This is no different than if you were to withhold Vitamin C or Calcium from a young child during their development, except that you wouldn't expect a child to grow into a healthy adult. It is for this reason you should avoid LED Grow Lights that claim to be for "Veg-Only", as they do not contain the spectra your plants need to thrive, and instead deliver more blue than your plants can physically absorb.




While HID Grow Lights have been the cornerstone of indoor gardens for decades, their most notable weakness is their spectrum. Unlike LED Lights, HPS and MH lighting creates a full-spectrum "white" light for your plants, much of which is wasted just like the sun. When you compare the spectral output graph of a HPS light to the Chlorophyll response curve, you notice that the vast majority of its output is within the range of little to no absorption. The MH by comparison provides higher levels of red and blue to the plant vs the HPS light, however the majority of light is still wasted. A Intelligent-Gor Intensity LED light on the other hand, is able to focus all of its energy on the specific wavelengths plants utilize most efficiently for photosynthesis, while creating very little wasted light. With our high intensity LED panels, plants have proven test after test to produce the desired yields, which demonstrates that spectrum alone plays a vital role in the efficiency of any Horticultural light.


Source: Par Spectrum 101
 
Sorry been awhile and I kept peeking in at one of your older links. And wasn't any up to dates pictures and I wondered why? I guess that happens Duh, should've learned reading back in the third grade of school back in Arkansas. But I glad to see your still up and growing. The fast peek I did I see your still working with the LED's. And sounds like you like the results, or least they are working out for ya. I've always been one to say if NASA thought they wood work. But myself I'm just that old dog that sticks with the tried true thing for me. Hey not to say HID's won't be turned over to the 'next generation' of lights. I've been looking in at acouple friends in person, that have been working with acouple different kinds of lighting, led's and ceramic lighting. But I can't call it on differences. But then everyones growing different strains and everyone grows differently. 10%-20% really I'd never know the difference, unless I did one myself under a controlled grow. Well Keepem Green
 
Norcaliwood said:
Sorry been awhile and I kept peeking in at one of your older links. And wasn't any up to dates pictures and I wondered why? I guess that happens Duh, should've learned reading back in the third grade of school back in Arkansas. But I glad to see your still up and growing. The fast peek I did I see your still working with the LED's. And sounds like you like the results, or least they are working out for ya. I've always been one to say if NASA thought they wood work. But myself I'm just that old dog that sticks with the tried true thing for me. Hey not to say HID's won't be turned over to the 'next generation' of lights. I've been looking in at acouple friends in person, that have been working with acouple different kinds of lighting, led's and ceramic lighting. But I can't call it on differences. But then everyones growing different strains and everyone grows differently. 10%-20% really I'd never know the difference, unless I did one myself under a controlled grow. Well Keepem Green
Click to expand...

Just got LED's . . . have yet to test them out. Yeah, that one's Jandre2k3’s Intelligent-Gro Testing: Phase 1 I honestly have no idea what to expect from these lights at all... I know that switching out lights is getting to be a chore when I wanna veg, or flower, so it'll be good to have one fixture that I don't have to open up every time I switch stages.
 
Sad news. A stem problem developed in the remaining plant "Female Explorer Biscuits" has died... In 3-4 days she went from a nice healthy green, to dead and yellow. Perplexing as it is, it allows me to focus on my next evolution: Jandre2k3’s Intelligent-Gro Testing: Phase 1


This journal is now dead and gone, and thus concludes the testing of the Cardboard Flower Box. It did well in its life, but I am now on to bigger, stronger, more sturdy material... and better lighting, I hope.
 

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