Jandre2k3's Cardboard Flower Box - Test 5: ScrOG Part Deux

Well if you can research and find all the proper equipment that would allow for comparison an exact way of measuring the two units to give a real life applicable comparison please let me know. I would love to acquire such equipment and show the tests on a scientific level and not just through a sponsored grow where a number of things can affect the outcome of a harvest. I have not yet found the right equipment.
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You may want to hit the light forum and speak with Hosebomber, he/she is a wealth of knowledge. I thought at first Hosebomber just wanted to stomp LED folks but after I asked if there was information backing what Hosebomber was saying I was presented with all kinds, interesting discussion too.

A bit abrasive... like other folks < we know :cheesygrinsmiley:

Hey, 00... I just noticed... Thanks for the rep!

Come on! the least I could do. It has been months since I wandered in, sorry. You are really doing well and all awesome images deserve a rep!
 
New plans, with tweaked measurements to make everything sit flush... ((I hope))

I think I got everything right on this one... I allowed for 1/2" thickness plywood, and 1.5" framing sticks... I forgot about all that in the first set of drawings. (As always, click to view full size.)




Basically all I did was to squeeze the sides in an inch so it all fits together nicely...


Anyone, PLEASE let me know if you see a design error anywhere... I'd hate to cut a $40 piece of plywood at the wrong size.......
 
Look at those spiffy arrows and whatnot :cheesygrinsmiley: My old man was a civil engineer and actually wrote in perfect font ... but he can't type! he always had a secretary to do that for him.
 
Thank you! I've not been growing inside long... most of mine was dirt guerrilla, and some in the garage under a streetlight... this hydro and I are getting along REALLY well thee past few years. Manipulation during veg is where it's at, then just sit back and watch her shine under flower.
thats the habit i need to improve in recent year or so i have gotten lax in veg training unless i do scrogg i seem to have fallen into a habit of topping and light defol

The way LED's work in comparison to HPS, is that LED's focus the power into specific wavelengths that are used for the different stages of growth... rather than the "shotgun" effect gotten from incandescent light sources that give a broad spectrum, and waste power on light that is unusable to the plants... Thus HPS actually focuses less energy on the specific wavelengths usable by plants, and thus end up wasting energy on the wavelengths in between... LED's function in a way that was before thought impossible. They give off specific wavelengths of light in a much higher intensity because all of the power goes into those wavelengths, and is not wasted on the "tweeners" that are unusable.

The way the light is shaped, however, is the same in both types of light... more intense in the center, and less to the edges... that's just the nature of the radiation. Unless there is some lens to refract the light and make the edges crisp, and spread the "hotspot" out, the edges will always receive less PAR than the center, and will always curve as in the earlier diagram shows.


Someone let me know if I'm geeking too far out.

your geeking to your unique level of perfection indigo brother never to much to understand but plenty to learn:thumb:
 
thats the habit i need to improve in recent year or so i have gotten lax in veg training unless i do scrogg i seem to have fallen into a habit of topping and light defol



your geeking to your unique level of perfection indigo brother never to much to understand but plenty to learn:thumb:

Well, think of it like this... a 400w HPS puts out a LOT of light, that's true... but most of that light is in the yellow to orange band of visible light, and really not a whole lot in the spectral range that is usable by plants to drive photosynthesis. Notice the yellow and orange is a big spike in the center, but the red/blue is relatively small.





Now, what LED's do is to focus in only on the wavelengths that plants use for for photosynthesis, and do not use much energy producing light that is in the ranges that plants don't need. Notice where the spikes are, and the lack of large measurements of green, yellow, orange, as opposed to the HPS above.



Thus less energy is used/wasted on light that just makes the plant visible to us, and more on the light that plants use to make food. This is a breakthrough, of sorts, in that more energy is directed at specific the wavelengths and thus can use less energy overall to get more powerful light to the plants that they will actually be able to use.

In essence, a 200w LED can potentially deliver more usable light to the plant than a 400w HPS because all that power is not wasted in the green, yellow, and orange bands.



I'll get into which bands are used for what later in the lesson, but for know let this sink in while thinking about how much overall energy can be saved over HPS.
 
yes im actually seeing that in recent harvests i grew a few sour diesel#2 clones and seeing larger yeilds of higher quality bud with over 200watts less power draw (just the light) and 1 plant that was flowered under hps had 3 weeks more veg time in a scrog but still came in 3rd for yeild also it took 3 times more food and water for the hps plants due to the coco drying out in 2 days vs 7-10 days for the led plants:high-five:

So less heat as well... another benefit? I hadn't thought of the heat reduction! I was focused on the focused wavelength, and less energy waste.

Less heat makes for more tasty bud as well... hmmm...
 
Man..I was just trying to find a diagram that I thouht was in here. It was two picture of two different was to so called top/prune. one was your basica topping..while the other picture showed what looked like topping but it was like topping 4 pieces at once by topping it a bit higher than norm. The persona used a different term and did not callt he second method topping..but from the looks of it.. I would have chosen the other way instead of standard topping based on the results and what happens to the plant...
Any of you might know what I am talking about and what the second method might have been? Its a long shot but I just thought I ask
 
I believe your talking about FIMing, aka F*ck I Missed. which is the opposite of topping. Instead of taking the whole top off you take the new growth and practically cut it a third off which allows for more tops to be grown.

I did topping vs fimming on image search and i think i found the picture but i cant post the link.
 
I got to use this info somewhere on my website in one of my articles...lol Good stuff perfectly said!

Well, think of it like this... a 400w HPS puts out a LOT of light, that's true... but most of that light is in the yellow to orange band of visible light, and really not a whole lot in the spectral range that is usable by plants to drive photosynthesis. Notice the yellow and orange is a big spike in the center, but the red/blue is relatively small.





Now, what LED's do is to focus in only on the wavelengths that plants use for for photosynthesis, and do not use much energy producing light that is in the ranges that plants don't need. Notice where the spikes are, and the lack of large measurements of green, yellow, orange, as opposed to the HPS above.



Thus less energy is used/wasted on light that just makes the plant visible to us, and more on the light that plants use to make food. This is a breakthrough, of sorts, in that more energy is directed at specific the wavelengths and thus can use less energy overall to get more powerful light to the plants that they will actually be able to use.

In essence, a 200w LED can potentially deliver more usable light to the plant than a 400w HPS because all that power is not wasted in the green, yellow, and orange bands.



I'll get into which bands are used for what later in the lesson, but for know let this sink in while thinking about how much overall energy can be saved over HPS.
 
Man..I was just trying to find a diagram that I thouht was in here. It was two picture of two different was to so called top/prune. one was your basica topping..while the other picture showed what looked like topping but it was like topping 4 pieces at once by topping it a bit higher than norm. The persona used a different term and did not callt he second method topping..but from the looks of it.. I would have chosen the other way instead of standard topping based on the results and what happens to the plant...
Any of you might know what I am talking about and what the second method might have been? Its a long shot but I just thought I ask
Here is FIMing and Topping compared. By the way FIMing is more forgiving. FIM = Fu*k I Missed it!
rasta.gif


toppinFiming.jpg



Look a post #569 in my OMMSOGa Journal listed below for a tutorial on super cropping. Tried to copy it here but couldn't. If you still can't find it, I'll try some other way to show you.





Here ya go
 
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