Medicatetoday
New Member
I wanted to try this one , do you remember WildRose? but im so far away so the only thing i can do is watch , im gonna watch then... hehe 
KingJohnC's and WildRosebud's Dual Grow Journal - Pink Parvat Beta Testing
- Thread starter WildRosebud
- Start date
With all due respect, Im more confused than. Especially with the issues regarding germing. Will there be side by side comparisons at some point? are you guys coordinating picture days and whatnot? Can we get a complete breakdown of the mediums, lighting, nutes, etc? Sorry, but I get distracted easily so a nice post as reference in the differences would help me stay on track.
- Thread starter
- #43
WildRosebud
New Member
aahhhh you got us Spimp lol we were just discussing in Private messages about this to a extent. Also I do not mind being led as well I am quite flexible. Your suggestions will be taken seriously for sure we want to be as informative with our exploration as possible so do not mind a few edit updates as this evolves lol , I plan to use pretty pictures n stuff , going to try to be more clever
Medicate I have not forgotten our misfortune! We may get bold one day , we will see
Medicatetoday
New Member
aahhhh you got us Spimp lol we were just discussing in Private messages about this to a extent. Also I do not mind being led as well I am quite flexible. Your suggestions will be taken seriously for sure we want to be as informative with our exploration as possible so do not mind a few edit updates as this evolves lol , I plan to use pretty pictures n stuff , going to try to be more clever
Medicate I have not forgotten our misfortune! We may get bold one day , we will see
Yes Sir, one day!
- Thread starter
- #45
WildRosebud
New Member
My one sprout is doing well and I have a turtle head pokin out on the other tray just waiting for it to drop the husk. They got company today with Romulan Grapefruit , Lowryder and a Ladybug OG seeds I germed. I am almost officially committing a federal offense it is so exciting! haha HAPPY WEED ALL!
You can also take a piece of sandpaper...I use 100 grit, roll it up with the rough side in and put the seeds inside to scarify them. I have made the mistake of shaking them too much..........just a few shakes is enough.......if the embryo gets exposed to air other than naturally by making it's own way out it won't live.........my experiences.........the outer surface just needs scratches to break the barrier that's slowing the ability of water to permeate the outermost shell. If you wanted, you could clone the plants that did grow...they'll catch up with the cultivars and you have more plants...or backups......I ALWAYS have backups!
- Thread starter
- #47
WildRosebud
New Member
locally I have a plant almost ready to train for mothering. I have a backup plan inmy area see I am teaching a few people how to grow. One solid dude in town I know I donated 2 clones of Deep Chunkolate first gen , a Romulan Grapefruit seedling and a Pink Parvat seedling same age as Romulan. The 2 Seedlings are taler and growing well and te clones are bushy like mom was. I have some clone stock available in a few weeks and wow it is a nice thought that my friend and I can play with different generations and breed these things.
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- #48
WildRosebud
New Member
My method of germination is pretty solid and fool proof. It takes up to 2 weeks of patience but rarely goes more than 2 days to get a perfect if not near perfect germination rate. My understanding of lights and behavior of varieties of plants is up there with the guru's and for many years now. See when assisting people with illegal grows and keeping "Heat" off you you become resourceful with the equipment you use. I was really good at tracking down stuff for growers as a "tobby" but they really came around when I would show them start to finish how to start and finish plants. It became a occupation when I was jobless at one time that kept me and my ex fed and with copious amounts of free smoke from others. Some bad dudes show up one day to get me to set them up and we had a disagreement and well , I ended up beating some heads in. I was watched by authorities and a gang for awhile they worked together so I took up solice with a biker gang. The biker gang took advantage of me again I beat some heads in was protected not much unlike Walter White..... Till I leashed out for being used.... I was released without incident by the worlds largest biker gang. Live and learn and do not piss the guru's off. Gang or no gang a man has to stand up and bust heads when he is threatened after doing his best to simply help for peanuts.
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- #50
WildRosebud
New Member
Welcome to 420! Ask and learn , speak and teach that is how it seems to work here
you learn from me I learn from you , we are all geniuses!- Thread starter
- #52
WildRosebud
New Member
Turtle head inner germ strangled it to death it did not take. Waiting for the others to pop out still. Reminds me of the Brenda germ difficulties I think it is due to the seeds being of different maturities it is hard to pin point what seeds will be most reliable for germing and sprouting. Turtle head was yellow too. Sprout that took is looking lovely so far...
- Thread starter
- #54
WildRosebud
New Member
No kidding
testing seeds is a pain in the bum , when I am given samples to test from breeders I usually encounter similar issues with germ rates among other challenges. It has been some time sincea breeder has thrown seeds at me though 
they forgot bout me I am afraid! 'sniff
your not wrong their with the seeds,
ive been crossing strains for a while and trying to perfect my own strains, any i crossed a gpd male with auto purple cheese fem and i also crossed my own fem pollen from an ak47 x uk cherry cheese and i also crossed this with the auto purple cheese fem,
anyways ive never had problems with seeds germing, ive always had between 90 and 100% germ rate so never really suffered like this, ive had some seeds that are nearly green due to harvesting to early and the lower seeds not been ready and these still grew ok,
but the seeds from the gdp male cross with auto purple cheese seem really really slow, ive tried scuffing them and they still take ages to germ, when i scuffed them the seeds where like stones, rock hard and nearly black, i usually plant direct in soil but after 2 weeks i scuffed and used paper towel method, then after 14 days i was about to throw the seeds out in the paper towel method and when i checked them 2 had cracked open and was growing, so they took a long time to germ compated with other seeds,
then i noticed the pots i had planted the seeds directly into had also started growing, this is nearly 3 weeks after planting them, they seem to be growing well now though so im hoping it turns out as something nice, so some of the seeds will turn out auto so ill collect pollen from a male auto and cross it with a fem auto to produce a gdp cheese auto then i can work with pheno types after ive got the auto strain sorted out,
but the none auto gdp cheese seeds ill pick out the best pheno types with the females and strongest male and cross them, i may also make some fem gdp cheese using 2 females with the same pheno type, but im several grows from getting that strain to where i want it to be so im keeping my fingers crossed that these seeds produce something nice, only getting low germ rates with them around 40 to 50% at the present time but if more grow out the pots that that % will increase and still got some in paper towel that have not cracked yet,
so not sure why these are giving me problems, the gdp cross auto purple cheese seeds look ok and are pretty big, they look as dark as shop bought seeds so i know their not harvested early and i dont think you can harvest to late as they just fall out the seed pods when ready, these was popping out the seed pods early on as most seed pods had split open due to the size of the seeds, other crosses i made did not do this but these seeds developed very quick and this split the calyx open, maybe that is what caused the problem
im wondering if its crossing a none auto with an auto that has caused the problems, it will be interesting to see how many turn out auto
ive been crossing strains for a while and trying to perfect my own strains, any i crossed a gpd male with auto purple cheese fem and i also crossed my own fem pollen from an ak47 x uk cherry cheese and i also crossed this with the auto purple cheese fem,
anyways ive never had problems with seeds germing, ive always had between 90 and 100% germ rate so never really suffered like this, ive had some seeds that are nearly green due to harvesting to early and the lower seeds not been ready and these still grew ok,
but the seeds from the gdp male cross with auto purple cheese seem really really slow, ive tried scuffing them and they still take ages to germ, when i scuffed them the seeds where like stones, rock hard and nearly black, i usually plant direct in soil but after 2 weeks i scuffed and used paper towel method, then after 14 days i was about to throw the seeds out in the paper towel method and when i checked them 2 had cracked open and was growing, so they took a long time to germ compated with other seeds,
then i noticed the pots i had planted the seeds directly into had also started growing, this is nearly 3 weeks after planting them, they seem to be growing well now though so im hoping it turns out as something nice, so some of the seeds will turn out auto so ill collect pollen from a male auto and cross it with a fem auto to produce a gdp cheese auto then i can work with pheno types after ive got the auto strain sorted out,
but the none auto gdp cheese seeds ill pick out the best pheno types with the females and strongest male and cross them, i may also make some fem gdp cheese using 2 females with the same pheno type, but im several grows from getting that strain to where i want it to be so im keeping my fingers crossed that these seeds produce something nice, only getting low germ rates with them around 40 to 50% at the present time but if more grow out the pots that that % will increase and still got some in paper towel that have not cracked yet,
so not sure why these are giving me problems, the gdp cross auto purple cheese seeds look ok and are pretty big, they look as dark as shop bought seeds so i know their not harvested early and i dont think you can harvest to late as they just fall out the seed pods when ready, these was popping out the seed pods early on as most seed pods had split open due to the size of the seeds, other crosses i made did not do this but these seeds developed very quick and this split the calyx open, maybe that is what caused the problem
im wondering if its crossing a none auto with an auto that has caused the problems, it will be interesting to see how many turn out auto
Medicatetoday
New Member
I would like to cross something too. CBD Skunk Haze Fem with some male but the question is: Do i need a room just for Males? and the pollen probably can go out of it everytime i open the room....
it all depends what you want to do, if you want to turn a whole plant to seed then leave both male and female in the grow room,
or if like me you just want a few buds producing seeds then you will need the male in a seperate room, what i do is leave the male in the flower room until the flowers are formed and a week or so from them been open, then i take the male and place it in another room with no open windows, then i leave the male just in natural light, once the male flowers are formed they will open up even if the plant is back under a veg light schedule,
so i take the male and place it near a window, it dont need direct light and it dont need much light, if its far from flower then ill put it in a dark place for 12 hours each day, so the male is away from the female, then when the male flowers open i collect the pollen in a small pot, or you can collect it on paper but i find using a pot is a good method, once the male flowers open place the pot under the open male flowers and give the plant a gentle tap and pollen will fall out, their will be lots of pollen as more flowers open so make sure their are no open windows or fan blowing anywhere near the male,
then once you have collected enough pollen and you dont need much i then kill the male plant and bin it or if you wanted more pollen keep it growing under 12-12 by placing it in a dark place, if you just want a small amount of pollen leave it in flower room until its ready to open its pollen sacs then place it near a window in another room, the plant will go back into veg but the flowers will still open before this happens,
so i kill the male once i got the pollen, each time you collect pollen make sure you wash your hands and sprayed your clothes down with water or changed clothes before going near the female plant,
so now lets say you got a small amount of pollen in the bottom of a plastic tub, well what i then do is take the female out the flower room and take it to the room where the pollen is, then i use a small que tip or paint brush and dip it in the pollen dust and gently rub it on the pistils i want to get seeds from, i usually put the pollen on the buds lower down the plant so i can still harvets most of the plant but get seeds from the bottom few buds, once you have put pollen on the pistils leave the female plant where it is and destroy the pollen your not using by washing it away with water, then leave the female plant where it is for 3 or 4 hours, after this time get a water spray bottle and give the plant a good spray down with water so it looks like its been rained on, doing this will kill any pollen on the plant and this will stop it spreading to other buds or other plants when you move it back to flower room, then when the plant has dried off put it back in the flower room and only the buds you put pollen on will produce seeds.
using that method ive not had problems with other plants turning to seed, ive not had problems with other buds growing seeds, i only get seeds from the buds i put pollen on,
but pollen can get air born and is easily spread by contact, so hands, clothes,hair etc etc will spread pollen,
so as long as your carefull when you collect the pollen, when you tap the male plant the pollen will juts fall into the tub and below the plant as their is no fan or open window, any breeze will spread the pollen, so once you collected the pollen just spray a mist of water around where the plant was to kill any pollen,
as long as your careful and you put pollen on the female plant in a different room then you should only get pollen on the buds you want seeds from, up till now ive not had any issues at all with turning a whole room to seed, its not a difficult process as long as your not flapping your arms around or got doors open that could caues a breeze, keep everything stead and move the pollen slowly, i move the pot as close to the bud as possible then use a small brush to gently dip in the pollen then i brush it on all the pistils on that bud, even if you cant see the pollen on the brush then their is still some their, so give the pistils a gentle rub and dip the brush in the pollen then this will produce seeds, within a few hours and up to 12 hours after putting pollen on the pistils you will notice the pistils on them buds will die as they have done their job and collected the pollen,
so its an easy process, but you can get it wrong if you dont spot the male early enough and the pollen sacs open up in the flower room, or if their is an open window in same room as male then when you open that door it will spread the pollen with ease.
so as long as you keep it simple you should have no problems what so ever, i have found it very easy to do plus it allows you to get more seeds of the same strain if you get a male and female or if you want to cross strains then only work with the best female of the bunch and the best male, its pointless crossing weak plants or plants that dont produce well, if you do this then you will just carry on with the poor genetics and the strain will get worse, but pick a good strong female with a good pheno type then get pollen from the best male of the bunch then you should end up with a very nice cross,
or if like me you just want a few buds producing seeds then you will need the male in a seperate room, what i do is leave the male in the flower room until the flowers are formed and a week or so from them been open, then i take the male and place it in another room with no open windows, then i leave the male just in natural light, once the male flowers are formed they will open up even if the plant is back under a veg light schedule,
so i take the male and place it near a window, it dont need direct light and it dont need much light, if its far from flower then ill put it in a dark place for 12 hours each day, so the male is away from the female, then when the male flowers open i collect the pollen in a small pot, or you can collect it on paper but i find using a pot is a good method, once the male flowers open place the pot under the open male flowers and give the plant a gentle tap and pollen will fall out, their will be lots of pollen as more flowers open so make sure their are no open windows or fan blowing anywhere near the male,
then once you have collected enough pollen and you dont need much i then kill the male plant and bin it or if you wanted more pollen keep it growing under 12-12 by placing it in a dark place, if you just want a small amount of pollen leave it in flower room until its ready to open its pollen sacs then place it near a window in another room, the plant will go back into veg but the flowers will still open before this happens,
so i kill the male once i got the pollen, each time you collect pollen make sure you wash your hands and sprayed your clothes down with water or changed clothes before going near the female plant,
so now lets say you got a small amount of pollen in the bottom of a plastic tub, well what i then do is take the female out the flower room and take it to the room where the pollen is, then i use a small que tip or paint brush and dip it in the pollen dust and gently rub it on the pistils i want to get seeds from, i usually put the pollen on the buds lower down the plant so i can still harvets most of the plant but get seeds from the bottom few buds, once you have put pollen on the pistils leave the female plant where it is and destroy the pollen your not using by washing it away with water, then leave the female plant where it is for 3 or 4 hours, after this time get a water spray bottle and give the plant a good spray down with water so it looks like its been rained on, doing this will kill any pollen on the plant and this will stop it spreading to other buds or other plants when you move it back to flower room, then when the plant has dried off put it back in the flower room and only the buds you put pollen on will produce seeds.
using that method ive not had problems with other plants turning to seed, ive not had problems with other buds growing seeds, i only get seeds from the buds i put pollen on,
but pollen can get air born and is easily spread by contact, so hands, clothes,hair etc etc will spread pollen,
so as long as your carefull when you collect the pollen, when you tap the male plant the pollen will juts fall into the tub and below the plant as their is no fan or open window, any breeze will spread the pollen, so once you collected the pollen just spray a mist of water around where the plant was to kill any pollen,
as long as your careful and you put pollen on the female plant in a different room then you should only get pollen on the buds you want seeds from, up till now ive not had any issues at all with turning a whole room to seed, its not a difficult process as long as your not flapping your arms around or got doors open that could caues a breeze, keep everything stead and move the pollen slowly, i move the pot as close to the bud as possible then use a small brush to gently dip in the pollen then i brush it on all the pistils on that bud, even if you cant see the pollen on the brush then their is still some their, so give the pistils a gentle rub and dip the brush in the pollen then this will produce seeds, within a few hours and up to 12 hours after putting pollen on the pistils you will notice the pistils on them buds will die as they have done their job and collected the pollen,
so its an easy process, but you can get it wrong if you dont spot the male early enough and the pollen sacs open up in the flower room, or if their is an open window in same room as male then when you open that door it will spread the pollen with ease.
so as long as you keep it simple you should have no problems what so ever, i have found it very easy to do plus it allows you to get more seeds of the same strain if you get a male and female or if you want to cross strains then only work with the best female of the bunch and the best male, its pointless crossing weak plants or plants that dont produce well, if you do this then you will just carry on with the poor genetics and the strain will get worse, but pick a good strong female with a good pheno type then get pollen from the best male of the bunch then you should end up with a very nice cross,
Medicatetoday
New Member
I wish i could give you double Reps haha
I know what is a strong female plant,i can see if it is a good pheno or no... but i dont know what is a good male,because i never had one.
Harley001
New Member
germination in 8 hrs
these seeds were droped in the water on the 7th for 24 hrs then placed in a Jiffy seed starter with a hot pad under it to warm the water the seeds were sitting on results were 100% germination. Temperature is critical I kept these at 80 degrees they popped in 8 hrs.
I've had great success with this method
nice germ method harley, might even try that myself, i usually plant direct in the medium or have used paper towel method once or twice,
now to pick the best male is not that hard really, you cant tell a male until its in flower or mature to show sex, so you have a few weeks to watch a male grow before you know its a male, if you have more than 1 male from the same strain then pick the best of the bunch or if you dont have a few males then see how well its grown from seed, if its grown fast and got good node spacing, no genetic problems like deformed leaves or anything like that then it would be a good male to use.
or if you dont plant on working with strains and crossing the pheno types and you just want plenty of seeds for future grows then use a male from a strain you like and cross that with the fem of the same strain or a fem from another strain,
i just crossed a gdp male a month of so back, i could not sample the female gdp as i never ended up with a female plant, so all i could go on was what others said about the strain and how it looked in other journals, so i then collected pollen from the male that grew the best and used the for collecting pollen from.
now to pick the best male is not that hard really, you cant tell a male until its in flower or mature to show sex, so you have a few weeks to watch a male grow before you know its a male, if you have more than 1 male from the same strain then pick the best of the bunch or if you dont have a few males then see how well its grown from seed, if its grown fast and got good node spacing, no genetic problems like deformed leaves or anything like that then it would be a good male to use.
or if you dont plant on working with strains and crossing the pheno types and you just want plenty of seeds for future grows then use a male from a strain you like and cross that with the fem of the same strain or a fem from another strain,
i just crossed a gdp male a month of so back, i could not sample the female gdp as i never ended up with a female plant, so all i could go on was what others said about the strain and how it looked in other journals, so i then collected pollen from the male that grew the best and used the for collecting pollen from.
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