Mag deficiency, wind burn?

[cr8grow]

Noticed very slight indication on one plant that looks like mag deficiency tonight. Also what may be wind burn on another bud site...the fan was blasting on it as it grew...now a bit twisted. I adjusted the fan and will watch as the plants transition into flower. Not concerned now but welcome thoughts.
Cali Connection Corleone Kush - plants 4.
Flipped to 12/12 two days ago after 6 weeks of veg from seed. Water today, 2 gallons total (every 4 days when pots are light) PH 6.4-6.5, organic nutes Biocanna Biovega 2 tsp/gallon and organic TPS CalMag 1 ml/gallon.
Indoor homebuilt cabinet (3’x3’x6.5’) 4” filter/exhaust, HEPA filtered passive intake, no light leaks
Soil grow - Roots Organics 707 amended with perlite, worm casings, silica
3 gallon pots
Light Sunsystem 315w CMH Phillips internal ballast; bulbs Phillips 4k veg, Phillips 3k flower
Light cycle 18/6 veg, 12/12 flower
Temp H 82F L 64 F, RH H 49% L 30%
Water - well (tap) average PH 7.5, PPM 142, EC 302 @70F

 

[Pbass]

Awesome setup, looking great! I'm a soil guy, so not sure if this transfers, but I think when I'm getting some claw like some of what I see on that front left plant it's because I'm pushing too much N, specifically to one strain I have really. I changed from 2-0-0 to 1-0-0 cal/mag and cut the grow big out of the FFT Im using for a few weeks, seems to straighten them out. CHeers mate, gl to your grow!

 

[Cannagrowerled]

If it’s at the top try pulling your lights up. If it’s not your lights it may be a micro nute deficiency if your lower leafs are good. If it’s only on newer growth it’s def an immobile nutrient problem. Maybe iron? I was thinking magnesium on mine as well but not 100% sure as I’ve added calmag and saw no improvement. Even with tap water. I had the same issue with slight intervenal chlorosis on my c99 grow I’m currently in.(mostly gone but still working on it) I’ve used a foliar spray with GH Flora nutes 5 drops of micro grow and bloom with a wetting agent to keep from beading up. Saw an immediate improvement so I sprayed again yesterday with micro only with wetting agent. Will confirm whether it’s micro or macro by tomorrow.
And I agree with pbass. Def see some clawing due to N toxicity. Could be looking at a lockout situation.

My 2c. Hope you get her lined out.

 

[cr8grow]

Awesome setup, looking great! I'm a soil guy, so not sure if this transfers, but I think when I'm getting some claw like some of what I see on that front left plant it's because I'm pushing too much N, specifically to one strain I have really. I changed from 2-0-0 to 1-0-0 cal/mag and cut the grow big out of the FFT Im using for a few weeks, seems to straighten them out. CHeers mate, gl to your grow!

Thanks Pbass. Im growing in soil with organic nutes. I added TPS organic CalMag (4.5% Ca, 1.1% Mg) a few weeks ago at half strength 1 ml/gallon as a preventative measure. I dont believe TPS contains any nitrogen. The plants have been very green since little, feeding organic Biocanna Biovega 2 tsp/gallon as recommended. My plan is to continue through stretch, then switch to Bioflores and Budswel until finish. I starved my plants in veg first grow, so hesitant to back off on feeding. The plant in the front left has looked like that since the beginning...seriously clawed leaves, while the others do not. Thinking about going up to the 2 ml/gallon recommendation on the TPS CalMag.

 

[Buds Buddy]

If it’s at the top try pulling your lights up. If it’s not your lights it may be a micro nute deficiency if your lower leafs are good. If it’s only on newer growth it’s def an immobile nutrient problem. Maybe iron? I was thinking magnesium on mine as well but not 100% sure as I’ve added calmag and saw no improvement. Even with tap water. I had the same issue with slight intervenal chlorosis on my c99 grow I’m currently in.(mostly gone but still working on it) I’ve used a foliar spray with GH Flora nutes 5 drops of micro grow and bloom with a wetting agent to keep from beading up. Saw an immediate improvement so I sprayed again yesterday with micro only with wetting agent. Will confirm whether it’s micro or macro by tomorrow.
And I agree with pbass. Def see some clawing due to N toxicity. Could be looking at a lockout situation.

My 2c. Hope you get her lined out.

Hi Canna, Don't want to hi-jack the OP's thread but I'm having some issues in my current grow. If you have time would you take a look & give me your thoughts. It's the Mars Hydro one. The last 3 - 4 pages are where my issues start. Thanks.

 

[cr8grow]

If it’s at the top try pulling your lights up. If it’s not your lights it may be a micro nute deficiency if your lower leafs are good. If it’s only on newer growth it’s def an immobile nutrient problem. Maybe iron? I was thinking magnesium on mine as well but not 100% sure as I’ve added calmag and saw no improvement. Even with tap water. I had the same issue with slight intervenal chlorosis on my c99 grow I’m currently in.(mostly gone but still working on it) I’ve used a foliar spray with GH Flora nutes 5 drops of micro grow and bloom with a wetting agent to keep from beading up. Saw an immediate improvement so I sprayed again yesterday with micro only with wetting agent. Will confirm whether it’s micro or macro by tomorrow.
And I agree with pbass. Def see some clawing due to N toxicity. Could be looking at a lockout situation.

My 2c. Hope you get her lined out.

Canna...thanks for the input. I will check the leaf symton charts out there for iron deficiency or others. That front fight plant has been different than the others since just seedling, very clawed leaves. Ive been treating it the same as the others regardless. I may try to flush that one instead of feeding next time. The plants have been very green on Biovega, compared to starving my plants in veg my last grow due to an early organic nute burn scare (not Biocanna product).

 

[Cannagrowerled]

Canna...thanks for the input. I will check the leaf symton charts out there for iron deficiency or others. That front fight plant has been different than the others since just seedling, very clawed leaves. Ive been treating it the same as the others regardless. I may try to flush that one instead of feeding next time. The plants have been very green on Biovega, compared to starving my plants in veg my last grow due to an early organic nute burn scare (not Biocanna product).

Yeah N toxicity is a pain to clear. I started with it on my quick one auto grow due to too much on the medium when I started. I’m about 6 weeks in and it is just now recovering but already 2 weeks in flower. I just bought some florakleen to flush excess salts and out. Maybe that will help.

Are you using tap water? If your water is hard enough the cal/mag in the tap can sometimes attach to the roots and cause lockout situations due to the molecules being too large for the plant to uptake. I just bought an RO system but my tap is so hard it’s 400ppm. And don’t worry about adding more calmag they can take a lot

Check out book university on YouTube. Old English dude w lamb chops had a few 40min videos. Def worth watching. Check it out

 

[cr8grow]

I checked my water which is hard but I understand not too hard - well (tap) average PH 7.5, PPM 142, EC 302 @70F. I will up the organic CalMag to recommended 2 ml/gallon next water. I took a group shot yesterday...several days after flip to 12/12. I double checked the Biocanna feeding schedule which continues with Biovega until you see flowers...then transition to Bioflores.

 

[Davidlespe]

6.4 6.5 is the actual ph of water or the soil itself. I would recheck my soil ph. If you are putting ph down to your water, it can kill good bactery that Buffer ph. So if your soil is at 7.5 , roots wont be able to catch most of the nutes your are putting in . I highly recommend , when Grow organicly , to Nevers put liquids nutes, but when you make your soil, put some chicken manure or chicken compost , flowering guano, things like that. Make sure the ph is around 6.5. i recommend to leave the pot moist for months before you even consider to put plants on IT, so you let the Time to life to Built Up .

 

[Pbass]

Looking better today! You gonna thin those out a bit? CHEers!

 

[cr8grow]

6.4 6.5 is the actual ph of water or the soil itself. I would recheck my soil ph. If you are putting ph down to your water, it can kill good bactery that Buffer ph. So if your soil is at 7.5 , roots wont be able to catch most of the nutes your are putting in . I highly recommend , when Grow organicly , to Nevers put liquids nutes, but when you make your soil, put some chicken manure or chicken compost , flowering guano, things like that. Make sure the ph is around 6.5. i recommend to leave the pot moist for months before you even consider to put plants on IT, so you let the Time to life to Built Up .

I adjust PH 6.5 after liquid organic nutes...use just a couple drops of PH down to get there. The soil is Roots 707 with slight amendments, which is buffered. I may look into living soil approaches at some point...currently using organic nutes in soil for my medicine. Im watching several living soil diaries now. Thanks for the feedback D.

 

[cr8grow]

Looking better today! You gonna thin those out a bit? CHEers!

Pbass...you are looking at my second grow...so much of the first grow jitters and angst are now behind me. Since this is my 2nd grow Im reacting to mistakes I made my 1st grow and in some cases may be just as misguided in application. Regarding thinning, Im swinging way the other way after lollypopping (butchering) my first plants based on various opinions online. This grow no leaf will be removed unless its total crap, in the dirt, or cant be tucked...less stress...I know this is a touchy subject already for many here. My plan is to trim away The bottom 1/3 of the smaller branches off each plant 3 weeks into flower (in a couple weeks) to focus energy on the main bud sites.

 

[Pbass]

I get it! It's not at all necessary, can just get some air flowing. But don't break whats fixing right!

With a perpetual grow that is constantly rotating in and out new and finished plants, I forget that I have way less at stake if one or five die. By the time I have plants that big I have as many ready to replace them. I guess I have the luxury of having more test subjects if my mad scientist shit goes bad!

Im so brazen I just started a DWC with no pH or PPM meter! I'm gonna see if I can grow weed in water with no tools but my green thumb! If they die...they are like Doritos..."we'll make more!"

 

[cr8grow]

OK Pb...Im checking out your links this quarantine weekend...including the DWC green thumbtest and I like Doritos. The wind burn bud site WAS windburn...redirected fan and bud site normal two days later.

 

[safeman]

I checked my water which is hard but I understand not too hard - well (tap) average PH 7.5, PPM 142, EC 302 @70F. I will up the organic CalMag to recommended 2 ml/gallon next water. I took a group shot yesterday...several days after flip to 12/12. I double checked the Biocanna feeding schedule which continues with Biovega until you see flowers...then transition to Bioflores.

Let tap water sit out over night - called de-natured water

 

[cr8grow]

Let tap water sit out over night - called de-natured water

Safeman, I dont have any chlorine in my well water...what is the reason to let it sit overnight?

 

[safeman]

Safeman, I dont have any chlorine in my well water...what is the reason to let it sit overnight?

have well water also and still let set out reason ? look at 'HB-101" to add to your water

 

[cr8grow]

Safeman, I checked out HB-101...a growth vitalizer made from plant extracts. Its pricey. I would be worried to add something else to the mix at this point. I did amend my soil with Harvest Gold Organics silica/minerals soil conditioner and used Superthrive when seedlings both grows.

 

[safeman]

Safeman, I checked out HB-101...a growth vitalizer made from plant extracts. Its pricey. I would be worried to add something else to the mix at this point. I did amend my soil with Harvest Gold Organics silica/minerals soil conditioner and used Superthrive when seedlings both grows.

get the sample pack 4 vials of for $1.00 -- 1per gallon - use it when "flushing"

 

[Curbcalamity]

Pbass...you are looking at my second grow...so much of the first grow jitters and angst are now behind me. Since this is my 2nd grow Im reacting to mistakes I made my 1st grow and in some cases may be just as misguided in application. Regarding thinning, Im swinging way the other way after lollypopping (butchering) my first plants based on various opinions online. This grow no leaf will be removed unless its total crap, in the dirt, or cant be tucked...less stress...I know this is a touchy subject already for many here. My plan is to trim away The bottom 1/3 of the smaller branches off each plant 3 weeks into flower (in a couple weeks) to focus energy on the main bud sites.

nooo dont be scared, we all screwed up defoliation and super cropping when we learned, anyone who says they didn't is just trying to sound cool. defoliation - it takes a bit of experience to know which leaves to take, and when is just as important. but it does work to concentrate the plant's energy into where you want, also allows better penetration for growing indoors, something you don't need to worry about when your light is the sun. but you don't get any of those lighter green buds at the bottom. also lollypopping is also something needed to be done at the correct time and the correct amount or else it will harm your yields. you basically want to be able to stop training when they go to flower and make sure they've recovered from any last training you've done.
you also don't want to be removing much after stretch apart from those tiny sites that try to form. after week 4-5 you really don't want to be removing anything anymore. you can do a few after the week 3 if they're very large fans blocking bud sites. but yeah. but again depends what you do, some people leave it all chop the topo half drop the lights and wait 10 days.