Mars-Hydro DWC 1 Plant 4x4 Scrog

I hope everyone is staying as safe as can be with the light of our current situation.

I have been a little busy and behind on my updates, my apologizes.

May, is starting to show she is interested in growing. She is currently showing her sex, and starting to show off her stuff. So far, pretty much a straight standard grow nothing fancy to speak of just yet. I will probably flip her to flower in about two weeks, then the process of filling her out in a 48x48 inch. net will start.

I will be leaving her in the 5 gallon bucket for this grow and start the 10 gallon bucket next grow. I am still buying extra supplies for the 10 gal. grow. Just normal stuff like extra air pump, more air hose, nutrients, etc.

Tok..

So here are some current images from last week:

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I did another solution change today, the normal 250 ppm's of calmag.

With that I add 5ml silica first, 10ml calmag = 250 ppm's, second, 2-3ml of Rapid Root third, and finish it off with 5ml of Hydro-guard in about 2 1/2 gallons of Ro water. Temperature of solution is 68 degrees or 20c and ph'd to 6.0.

I will be keeping the humidity high until just before she goes into flower, and then bring it down.

This is all that it has been on from the start, and probably for a couple more weeks.

Things are looking up as far as the weather is concern, so back in the veg tent she goes.

Getting time to shift gears. Training to start soon.

Tok..
 
Hey at what point is to high humidity for you?

I hope this helps explain my reasoning @Dusty Kiefers . I understand if you do not agree with my methods, but they work for me.

I have a guide I use of temperature and humidity. This is from my notes and research; and the scale I normally use.

Ideal humidity levels for every growing phase of cannabis growth.


Germination / beginning of the cuttings' rooting period

It is really important to maintain a relative humidity of 80-90% in your mini greenhouse during this phase. This applies to seeds that have just sprouted and also to young seedlings (0-10 days old). These still don't have a strong radicular system and are therefore pretty fragile.

They require high moisture levels so they can concentrate all their resources on the development of a strong and vigorous root mass. The correct day temperature should be77-78 degrees or 25-26ºC, and 69.8 – 71.6 or 21-22ºC at night.

Seedlings and 10-day-old clones

At this point, the required conditions should range between 70 and 80%, with similar temperatures to those in the initial stage.

The moisture level for this phase needs to be quite high as the root mass is not very vigorous and actually non-existent in the case of the young seedlings.

It is essential to maintain the correct relative humidity as cuttings will start to develop their first roots between 12 and 20 days after having been planted in the growing medium. This is a crucial point for the appropriate evolution of these young plants.


Growing phase (veg)

At this stage the young seedlings, derived from seeds or cuttings, will have developed a radicular mass that is significant enough for them to feed through and therefore reach their maximum potential before being transplanted to a new pot for further development.

Establishing new climate conditions at this stage is vital as the aim is to achieve a reasonably high humidity level, but slightly lower than at the beginning. A good balance should range between 60 and 70%.

Temperatures must be kept between 71.6 – 82.4 or 22-28ºC during the day and 64.4 - 71.6 or 18-22ºC at night. These conditions guarantee the plants' well-being and facilitate good metabolic function, as well as overall optimum development.

At this point, the plant to absorb a higher amount of nutrients and develop a much more resistant immune system.

Early flowering

At the start of the flowering period, when the 'stretching' or the final growth boost occurs, plants need specific climate conditions for this transitional phase.

As this is still a transition period in which plants progressively end the veg phase, the humidity level needs to be set at 50-60%. It is also essential that the temperature remains between 68.0 – 78.8 or 20-26ºC both day and night.

This prevents thermal shock and guarantees that plants will be ready to produce those delicious flowers. It is vital that their well-being is taken care of so they can concentrate all their resources on their final objective: quality and quantity. These measures are valid for the first 3 to 4 weeks of flowering, depending on the strain.

Late flowering

In the second part of the flowering phase the humidity level must be reduced to 40-50%. In the second and third final weeks it's preferable for this figure to be closer to 40%.

This is absolutely essential, particularly if you're growing strains that are sensitive to mold or that produce dense flowers.

If you follow these guidelines, chances of botrytis hitting your flowers will be slim. As far as temperature goes, I would suggest you to stick to64.4 – 75.2 or 18-24ºC during the day and 62.6 68 or 17-20ºC at night.

This way you'll be able to control your flowers' dew point, which is crucial in order to prevent fungi and avoid ruining all your hard work.
 
Thanks @GoogleGenie

Today's update' well when I went to put May back in the veg tent, she was a tad to big and need to go to the flower tent.

So, I had to get the flower tent wiped down again and get it ready for a visitor. I placed the net on top for a visual look and then I will be removing it until I am ready.

For now May needs to stand tall for me, and being under the Mars-hydro TSW-2000 she should do just that. During this grow I plan on pushing this light to its maximum ability. I can't tell you just yet what I will be doing; when the time comes I will.

I included a couple images for later comparison.

Enjoy,

Tok..

Tent 1.jpg


Tent 2.jpg


Three stone bucket on.jpg

This is a very low setting on the pump.
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Not much of an update to report currently.

May is still pushing along, waiting for me to do a solution change and maybe up the ppm's.
It will probably be today; I have my water warming up to 20.c before I start introducing nutrients. This may not be necessary but I don't mind, because I have to do it for ph anyways.

She has been on 250 ppm's of cal-mag this whole grow, and she is starting to tell me she wants more.

Today May is sipping on a tall bucket of 10ml silica (ppm's 0 ), 10 mil cal-mag (ppm's 200 ), 10ml of part A (ppm's 120 ), 4ml of Rapid Root (ppm's 0 ) 10ml of Hydro-guard (ppm's 0 ) = total ppm's of about 320 and I am good with that.

Bucket temp. 20.c ph'd too 6.1.

I will upload some images a little later.

Tok..

edit: Sorry, I am using GH Flora Duo Part A and B for my nutrient lineup.
 
Thanks @Rollincoal , the last time I checked your garden was doing quite well.

Just a little update and images.

The this week I was battling a little case of a root problem, no biggie and May's back on track. I haven't decided I may switch her in the next week of so. Currently, she stands 10" above the bucket, so I might have to adjust the height on my net, we'll see. Readings are as following 245 ppm's with solution temp of 22c. I will lower this. The PH is sitting at 6.0 so basically just make a slight temperature change in the bucket and I am good.

Stay safe out there and enjoy,

Tok..

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Today's update:

First, I want too thank everyone that has stumble across this grow journal and/or have made a comment. Thank you.

I did a solution change on Monday and boost the ppm's up to 350 at 6.1 ph. If you are wondering I am done play with my water experiments on this grow. Next solution change she will be placed on 12/12 for one week, then on to light manipulation experiment to maximize the LED's full potential.

When I grow my ladies I have plans ahead of time of what experiment I will be doing. I will not release the data, until I my certain the information is correct.

So if you notice unusual coloring or spots on the leaves it is from my water project. Nothing to be concern about, I am just playing.

So today images were taken from 3/21 and 3/23.

Enjoy,

Tok..

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I like to experiment as well, it give a chance to learn as to how.far things can be manipulated or pushed. Like my last one put into flower is only 3 weeks and I never up potted want to see how well she flowers being root bound.
 
She's coming along fast my friend! That's a decent stem she has on her ready to switch.

I look forward to your findings from your experiments. Not doubt there will be learnings for all of us :Namaste:

And thank you for the mistake :popcorn:
 
Howdy everyone long time no speak.

I hope everyone has a good grow going on with no issues.

Today's update:

May was placed of 12/12 on the 3/29 (yesterday), so let the stretch begin. This is the part where we learn how to weave.

I hope my playing did not set her back to much. I am now getting ready to start setting up the 10 gallon container for use. I am hoping to push the walls on a 4x4 tent, we'll see. This next grow will be a no issue grow, meaning I will not be playing, just going for yield.

I recently was selected as a Bestva led light (Pro 1000) tester from one of our sponsors (thank you again @GrowTina ).
I believe between the Bestva led light and my Mars-hydro 2000, I think I can push the limits of one plant in a less than 4 month lady. Not this grow, it's the next one that will be waiting in the wings.

I was going to take the summer off but, decided to squeeze one more in; so I will take July and August off and enjoy the summer. It will also give me time to decide what I want to have for the holidays.

Some current images taken from 3-28 to 3-30

Enjoy,
Tok..

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