Not a normal yellowing issue - Please give opinions

[TheMadDabber]

I wouldn't guess nitrogen. Nitrogen is a mobile nutrient which means it can be pulled up and used from older leaves. Rarely does it display near new growth. My first thought is sulfur or iron def. Both are caused by exactly what Joe and germ said, Ph out of range

 

[KingJoe83]

So other than getting my pH adjusted what would you guys recommend to fix the nitrogen before flowering. And by the way thank you both again I appreciate it

Maybe Boost up your grow base for nutrients or add more root stuff to help get those roots thriving again .

 

[The Germinator]

Okay forgive my ignorance please but what is a Folein spray and how do I make it

I will google and double check. But you mix nutrients up in a spray bottle and spray the plant. It will absorb the nutrients through the leaves.

 

[The Germinator]

How do I foliar feed?
Foliar feeding instructions:
You can use any full spectrum nutrient to foliar feed your plants. To avoid nutrient burn, your nutrient solution strength, should be no more than 1/3rd of the maunufactures reccomended dosage.

* The best temperature is about 72 degrees (when stomata on the underside of the leaves are open); at over 80, they may not be open at all. So, find the cooler part of the day if it is hot and the warmer part of the day if it is cold out.

* Use a good quality sprayer -- should atomise the solution to a very fine mist.

* Always be sure your light is off and cool before foliar feeding! For extra safety, wipe your bulb with a dry cloth after spraying and make sure H.I.D lights are raised to a safe distance (double the distance is a good rule of thumb) to prevent burning.

* Make sure the PH of your solution is between 7 and 6.2.

* To prevent the water from beading up (acting as small prisms) and thereby burning the leaves, for each gallon made, add half of a teaspoon of liquid detergent (wetting agent).

* Spray leaf surface -- the tops and the undersides -- until the liquid begins to drip off the leaves. Stop spraying 2 weeks into flowering -- use sparingly on bud sites.

* Dispose of excess spray according to manufactures instructions– home made fertilizer sprays will be fine for at least 2 weeks.

* Spray one time a week every week, if any white residue is found, rinse the foliage with plain ph'd water to reduce salt build-up.


EDITORS NOTES:
Personally, I do not foliar feed in any situations other then those mentioned below, as, IMO, it does not seem to be necessary if using a well-managed hydroponic set-up. The reasons I foliar feed, are mainly to reduce nutritional stress situations. I avoid spraying bud sites, as nitrate salts (the "n" in NPK) are very unhealthy to smoke, fish emulsion smells, and Bat guano could be highly unsanitary so stick to hygenic solutions.

Benefits of foliar spraying:
* To provide a quick nutrient fix for root-zone nutrient problems or deficiencies; this allows more time to solve the problem(s).

* To prevent excess yellowing on clones.

* To instantly provide nutrients via the leaves, which reduces stress on the suffering plant.

 

[BudBoy2]

Okay forgive my ignorance please but what is a Folein spray and how do I make it

Hey bud, they are right on about the leaves yellowing. Foliar spray is making up some nutrients in a bottle to spray your plants with. Does look like nitrogen Def. I use a brand called Fertilome and mix it with a quart of ph water. You could try 2ml to a quart of water and spray just before lights come on or right after they do. Do it for a couple of days and see what happens. Just don't over do it as that stuff is strong. Good Luck Bro!!

 

[TheFertilizer]

I wouldn't guess nitrogen. Nitrogen is a mobile nutrient which means it can be pulled up and used from older leaves. Rarely does it display near new growth. My first thought is sulfur or iron def. Both are caused by exactly what Joe and germ said, Ph out of range

Concur with TheMadDabber. The way the yellowing starts from the petiole ( leaf stem ) and progresses to the tip is tell-tale iron issue.

I think it's probably from the sudden shift from high pH to lower.

 

[growumbo]

That looks like a nitrogen and/or iron deficiency caused by a pH lockout. Try flushing plants with controlled ph'd water and getting a runoff to sample what the soil's pH is.

 

[growumbo]

Concur with TheMadDabber. The way the yellowing starts from the petiole ( leaf stem ) and progresses to the tip is tell-tale iron issue.

I think it's probably from the sudden shift from high pH to lower.

I was thinking it's caused by a lower pH as well

 

[FunkyTech99]

Looks like LED light burn to me.