RetiredRN Gorilla Glue, Northern Lights 2021 First Time Grower

[Emilya Green]

I hope I just didn’t hurt my plant again. I will go back to half strength nutrients. I will be sure to mention every post that they are autos so people know and can advise me correctly. Thanks again Emilya. I also let them get completely dry like you suggested before watering again .

Please note my love that I was being extremely sarcastic. If you can find where FF recommends feeding autos lighter than any other plant, by all means, use that schedule. My point is that it doesn't exist. It is simply bro science that says that you MUST feed an auto lighter than photos.

Feed rate depends on the size of your plants, the size you want them to get, and the strength of your lights. It is no coincidence that a lot of newbie growers growing autos, because they were told that they were easier, get by on less nutes because it should also be understood that a vast majority of those new growers are using less than spectacular lighting systems, because they just got into the hobby. If you indeed have a tiny light, then of course, give a tiny amount of nutes... your plants will not be able to process more than that. If you put an auto in a good soil and give it the right amount of light, there is no reason not to feed it as recommended.

 

[Oldhippie59]

I used the Fox Farms trio pack on my first grow all Autos with pretty good results but this time I’m going with Geoflora going to give it a shot thanks Emilya ! I have 7 autos on this new grow fixing to hit the tents super excited.

 

[Emilya Green]

I don't see you mention VPD......its more important then you think.

VPD is the difference between the amount of water vapor that the atmosphere is able to retain (which depends on temperature) and the amount of water vapor contained in it (relative humidity).

Lol... I have never worried about VPD. My plants have never worried about VPD and I live in Missouri where right now it is 20% humidity in my house and in the summer time it is easily 110% humidity, or at least it feels like it. Sure, if you want to create lab like perfect conditions for your plants as far as relative humidity goes, your plants will grow better than mine. Is it necessary to go to that level of perfection, along with the cost and hassle of getting it done? I find that it is not at all necessary, just another one of those many many things you can do to "fine tune" things in your grow area. I have the opposite of OCD... here in Missouri, you have to show me that it is necessary to get me to work harder than I need to.

 

[Emilya Green]

All my winter runs range 64 to 77 Fahrenheit. My basement is 57 to 59. Between my grow light and a mini 400 watt heater I cope, but I gotta run 22 to 24 hours a day.

After April I can get some really nice plants. This run will be ordinary.

If I shut the light or heater off I've seen temps drop 8 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit in 60 to 90 minutes.

These cool temps are probably why your plants run slowly and need fewer nutes, and the explanation as to why your springtime yields are so much better.

 

[Emilya Green]

I did not advise against a proper VPD range... I just said it isn't critical.

 

[Virgin Ground]

I feed autos like I feed any other plant.
No need to baby them with half strength unless it's a specific cultivar that requires less. Some do. Some are notoriously heavy feeders, like auto Cheese, auto White widow.

I see a bit of a blueish purpling to the leaves. Could be from cold. Again, some plants can handle cold better than others.

The blanket statement that autos can't handle full nutes is erroneous. Some clearly can.

 

[RetiredRN]

Please note my love that I was being extremely sarcastic. If you can find where FF recommends feeding autos lighter than any other plant, by all means, use that schedule. My point is that it doesn't exist. It is simply bro science that says that you MUST feed an auto lighter than photos.

Feed rate depends on the size of your plants, the size you want them to get, and the strength of your lights. It is no coincidence that a lot of newbie growers growing autos, because they were told that they were easier, get by on less nutes because it should also be understood that a vast majority of those new growers are using less than spectacular lighting systems, because they just got into the hobby. If you indeed have a tiny light, then of course, give a tiny amount of nutes... your plants will not be able to process more than that. If you put an auto in a good soil and give it the right amount of light, there is no reason not to feed it as recommended.

I understand now. It makes sense now so thanks for clearing that up.

 

[RetiredRN]

Lol... I have never worried about VPD. My plants have never worried about VPD and I live in Missouri where right now it is 20% humidity in my house and in the summer time it is easily 110% humidity, or at least it feels like it. Sure, if you want to create lab like perfect conditions for your plants as far as relative humidity goes, your plants will grow better than mine. Is it necessary to go to that level of perfection, along with the cost and hassle of getting it done? I find that it is not at all necessary, just another one of those many many things you can do to "fine tune" things in your grow area. I have the opposite of OCD... here in Missouri, you have to show me that it is necessary to get me to work harder than I need to.

I agree with @Emilya . Sometimes simple is better. I do not get into all the extreme things people are doing to grow these weed plants. you feed them water them provide great light, make sure they’re warm and have enough humidity and let them do their thing and you should be able to turn out a great product.

 

[Maritimer]

Ahoy there!
As you have witnessed there are many members willing to jump in and help out a new member. I think all mean well and all, but as I texted you yesterday your interests are best served paying close attention to a few gardeners whom have documented success on this forum. Thank everyone for help and ideas, but until you have a few runs behind you stick with your mentors.

That's what I did when too many were helping me. @Farside took me under his wing and it's been a breeze since.
You running with the likes of @StoneOtter @Emilya and @Virgin Ground will work magik for you.

 

[InTheShed]

7.5 ml of FF grow big and 30 ml of FF big bloom per half gallon of water

So that would be 3tsp/gallon of Grow Big and 12tsp/gallon of Big Bloom.

I can't find that on the FoxFarm Soil Feed Chart for flower, and you're also missing the Tiger Bloom which is what is designed for plants in flower.

 

[RetiredRN]

So that would be 3tsp/gallon of Grow Big and 12tsp/gallon of Big Bloom.

I can't find that on the FoxFarm Soil Feed Chart for flower, and you're also missing the Tiger Bloom which is what is designed for plants in flower.

Hey @InTheShed , thanks for the chart. I printed it and will start using it.

 

[InTheShed]

Glad to help. Out of curiosity, what were you using before I posted that?

 

[RetiredRN]

Glad to help. Out of curiosity, what were you using before I posted that?

Nothing because dummy me thought my living soil would feed my plants from seed to harvest. I discovered not when I started having deficiencies.

 

[RetiredRN]

Hey @Emilya @StoneOtter @Virgin Ground . Here are my girls. My gorilla glue auto which is the biggest plant in the back right seems to be doing very well at 48 days old today. The other plants are my Northern light autos and they are 39 days old today. I am feeding them the Foxfarm trio of nutrients. The gorilla glue and the one auto that are blooming (I guess), are being fed the big bloom and the other two autos are being fed grow big. They are a bit droopy because the light just came back on and they seem to like it really well when it’s on. They perked back up after the light has been on for a few hours. My Rh is running at 45% and Temp 68. I run a heater in the tent because when the lights are off the temp has been getting to 64 which the plants don’t like at all.

 

[InTheShed]

When you say Fox Farms Trio, I assume you have Tiger Bloom as the third bottle? That is what's used for flowering plants per their feeding schedule.

Don't go by the weeks on that chart since it's for photoperiods. As soon as you see pistils on an auto is the time to transition to the flowering schedule.

 

[RetiredRN]

When you say Fox Farms Trio, I assume you have Tiger Bloom as the third bottle? That is what's used for flowering plants per their feeding schedule.

Don't go by the weeks on that chart since it's for photoperiods. As soon as you see pistils on an auto is the time to transition to the flowering schedule.

Yes thats correct. I will keep a note for my next grow about using the tiger bloom as soon as I see pistils and will continue with that for them now.

 

[StoneOtter]

Hey @Emilya @StoneOtter @Virgin Ground . Here are my girls. My gorilla glue auto which is the biggest plant in the back right seems to be doing very well at 48 days old today. The other plants are my Northern light autos and they are 39 days old today. I am feeding them the Foxfarm trio of nutrients. The gorilla glue and the one auto that are blooming (I guess), are being fed the big bloom and the other two autos are being fed grow big. They are a bit droopy because the light just came back on and they seem to like it really well when it’s on. They perked back up after the light has been on for a few hours. My Rh is running at 45% and Temp 68. I run a heater in the tent because when the lights are off the temp has been getting to 64 which the plants don’t like at all.

Looking fine Rn!

 

[lvumlow]

If you can find where FF recommends feeding autos lighter than any other plant, by all means, use that schedule.

I am a newbie but can confirm that I ran full strength (manufacture recommended) on my northern lights autos and my plant had no problems with the feeding. I probably should mention that I don't use Fox Farm. Actually, since I was learning I had a few points along the way where my nutrient dosage exceeded recommendations. I was trying to find the point where you just start to see tip burn but they took way more than I expected.

I have found the best way (for my setup) was to read waste water and if my levels dropped (the plant is feeding), I would raise my EC gradually until the plant reached equilibrium. If my waste readings were higher than my resovior, I backed off my levels again until balance was reached. Funny thing, my system actually settled right at manufacturers suggestions so I assume they know what they are doing (I am using Floramax hydro series)? I have a little different challenge whereas I am not using soil and find I need to flush my roots every week or so to avoid buildup.

I agree with Emilya, in that light levels are the engine that drives your plants needs...

 

[Deketx]

Nothing because dummy me thought my living soil would feed my plants from seed to harvest. I discovered not when I started having deficiencies.

You aren't the first and you wont be the last. I did the same thing. LoL. Like others said, find proven growers and watch and listen. There are many exceptional growers on here. @Emilya is my cannabis Sherpa, she helped save me on more than one occasion. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

 

[RetiredRN]

Hey @Emilya . Well, I think my cheap ph meter is crap. I hope I just haven’t killed my girls today when I fed them and watered. If my ph meter was right, the fox farm nutrients lower the ph of the water considerably requiring ph up to an acceptable level. Is this true? I ph adjusted my water then fed my girls and then did the weekly calibration on my meter and found it was way off. It was showing my plain water at 7.68 instead of 7.2. I have no idea what the ph of the water I fed my girls was now. I’m jus gonna cry if I kill them. I’m going to order a better meter tomorrow but thats not helping me now. So does the fox farm nutrients require ph adjustment after you mix them or is my meter just the absolute crap.