Southerncough
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Just ordered some
Severely stunted autos
- Thread starter Slick0ne
- Start date
I'd get them out of that seed starter soil and into something better. That starter mix doesn't have much in the way of nutes. Either that or start feeding them lightly.
Southerncough
Well-Known Member
I like to start mine in a coco/pearlite/worm poop mix and then start feeding once they get their first full set of fan leaves (5-7 leaf tips)
Is your light adjusted to 100% power?
That seems like a lot of root growth for little (no) plant growth, almost as if it was seeking something, and not successful at locating it.
Definitely use the vinegar on your bowl of sliced cucumbers and onions instead of living plants. As a pH adjuster, it only has a temporary effect.
When you water, are you watering until all of the soil is wet, then allowing it to mostly dry again, and repeating the cycle? As opposed to just dribbling too little water, too often? Are you avoiding the mistake of allowing your soil to get so dry that it (in whole or in part) becomes somewhat hygroscopic, causing the water to basically just pour right on through and out the bottom?
That seems like a lot of root growth for little (no) plant growth, almost as if it was seeking something, and not successful at locating it.
Definitely use the vinegar on your bowl of sliced cucumbers and onions instead of living plants. As a pH adjuster, it only has a temporary effect.
When you water, are you watering until all of the soil is wet, then allowing it to mostly dry again, and repeating the cycle? As opposed to just dribbling too little water, too often? Are you avoiding the mistake of allowing your soil to get so dry that it (in whole or in part) becomes somewhat hygroscopic, causing the water to basically just pour right on through and out the bottom?
- Thread starter
- #25
Yes, my light is on 100% power at 20 inches away. Instructions say 24 inches but I see the stems are a bit white so I lowered it a few days ago. Don’t see a change in stem color though, but no stretching or leaf curling either.
I haven’t had to water since I was told no vinegar. Last I had dark soil about 2 inches down so I’m sure I’ll need to water today. I’m going to grab some local river and spring water to check out before I water because my well water has a ph of over 8. So I’ll check ph and ppm on it.
For the first week I was watering a little every day. Then I switched over to watering whenever soil was dry an inch down or so which was about a day or day and a half. I have not let it get dried out. Now after ready more about watering I realize I need to let the roots search for water a bit more and not keep it wet
- Thread starter
- #26
I read several articles about using the worm castings and perlite mix for the first few weeks. I also read many that said to use a starter mix and perlite. Both methods seemed to have great results so I used starter as my local places don’t sell casting. I just happened to see people using solo cups to start auto seedlings then transfer into some good soil in a final pot. Figured that my help me stop over watering but obviously it didn’t. Still learning
Southerncough
Well-Known Member
The mix is what I use throughout the whole grow so I keep a tub full nearby. I just don't give any fertilizer until they've had a chance to grow some roots
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I am going to jump in again to ask you to read my thread regarding how to properly water. Learning about how to use the wet/dry cycle to grow more roots is the solution to your overwatering problem. Please check out the links in my signature lines and join the the almost half million people who have read it. Although I don't believe in the practice, I have a second thread for those Auto growers who insist on starting in their final containers and need a specialized watering technique. It is a good read for those who don't agree in the technique of successive uppotting.
- Thread starter
- #29
Yes, I did give it a read and it is very helpful. Thank you for sharing!!
TwelveCoffee
Well-Known Member
Could be genetics as well 420 has a bad rep from my understanding
- Thread starter
- #31
I collected some spring and river water today and let it set in the grow room all day. River water showed 8.6 PH and 220 ppm but the spring water is a bit better at 7.5 PH and 340 ppm so I’ll use it until get my PH Down in the mail.
On another not I think I lost one to damping off. This morning it was looked rough so I snapped a picture of the stem. Then tonight I go to look and it’s falling over so I pulled it out to check the root system and take a picture. Roots were twice the length of the solo cup but I am unsure how they should typically look at 14 days old. I took another picture of the stem after I pulled it out of the cup.
Maybe this will help get me some answers
On another not I think I lost one to damping off. This morning it was looked rough so I snapped a picture of the stem. Then tonight I go to look and it’s falling over so I pulled it out to check the root system and take a picture. Roots were twice the length of the solo cup but I am unsure how they should typically look at 14 days old. I took another picture of the stem after I pulled it out of the cup.
Maybe this will help get me some answers
Danishoes21
Well-Known Member
Sorry about that mate.
The photo of the bag of soil that you showed is for what appears to be a quality basic potting mix and so far I do not see any problem from using that.
As for the 'Damping Off Disease' that is a sign that the soil is staying too wet at the surface. It can be staying wet because of being watered more often than necessary. When watering try to keep the soil closer to the stem a bit drier. It also helps to have a gently air movement over the soil surface which also reduces the possibility that the soil next to the stem is saturated for hours or even days on end. It is even worse when a seedling is growing very slow or not at all.
When the soil line is well below the edge of the container as it appears in the early photos then it is harder for the air movement to go over the soil. The edges of the container will act as a wind block. It will help in the future if the soil is about half of the length of an adult's finger nail below the rim.
it looks like your potting soil is pre-loaded with gnats. if there's enough larvae in there they will be feeding on your roots and keeping your plants from developing.
- Thread starter
- #35
I just started germinating two seeds so I can replace the one I lost. This time I will fill it with soil to the top so it settles down a bit. I also plan to add some perlite to the seed starter and use clear cups so I can better watch the moisture.
Several days ago I put my fan on oscillation to help keep the moisture off the top but I guess I’d already over watered too long.
It’s been roughly 3 days since I’ve watered and I still see wet soil about 2” down.
The two plants that are left are now showing signs of burning or wilting on the tips. I’m unsure what it is but I’m going to read into it as well as see what you all think.
I don’t think I have gnats. Those are old traps but I will change them to make sure.
that plant is hungry. it needs fed fast.
i thought the gnats on your traps were recent. some generic potting soils come loaded with them. you can negate it by baking your media at 350f for an hour before using.
i thought the gnats on your traps were recent. some generic potting soils come loaded with them. you can negate it by baking your media at 350f for an hour before using.
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
My first suggestion is don't bother with autoflowers because they are so finicky that a loud fart will stunt them.
When learning its much easier to grow photo-periods.
Possible problems, vinegar, soil too hot as in nutrients, gnat larvae chewing roots, or soil not aerated enough.
When learning its much easier to grow photo-periods.
Possible problems, vinegar, soil too hot as in nutrients, gnat larvae chewing roots, or soil not aerated enough.
- Thread starter
- #38
I went in to change the fly traps and noticed a mushroom growing in each cup. I had dug a small hole in the edge so I could see moisture content better and they grew up in that hole.
I’d assume that the soil has been wet for too long if I’m growing fungi
Should I just throw these girls away and start all over? I don’t know if growing new girls next to these will cross contaminate?!?!
I’d assume that the soil has been wet for too long if I’m growing fungi
Should I just throw these girls away and start all over? I don’t know if growing new girls next to these will cross contaminate?!?!
DW420
Well-Known Member
My autos from a weeks time. They was very small for over 30 days and now they are shooting up fast!
TwelveCoffee
Well-Known Member
I’m still new and all so forgive me if I’m completely wrong but the issue with stunted autos is that they are on a time limit but providing you can keep them alive they will flower.My autos from a weeks time. They was very small for over 30 days and now they are shooting up fast!
You just won’t get as much yield my auto that I’m growing now is 40+ days and is just starting to show sex and probably won’t get to much bigger then what she is now.
Good luck on your grow my friend and stay hydrated!
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