JimmyJames905
New Member
These are the top 4 strains specifically for ADHD
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SeymoreNugget's DIY talk - Building lights - Sharing ideas
- Thread starter Lost In Nugs
- Start date
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- #382
Lost In Nugs
New Member
Decarbolyse means to transfer carbons/glucose into evaporating alcohols (or co2 lol) to get the taste and high we want right? A curing process.
Riddleme is starting this on a life plant by boiling the roots when they are done. Once started you can chop and it keeps going on. Ive done this last grow and after 7 days drying it tasted like 3 weeks in jars
my stash is almost beige now because it speeds up the curing in general
Ever heard of boiling roots? It really does something good imho
Boiling and H2O2 washing are standards for me since last grow. Everyone says just WOW when they see smell taste feel what i have done... Even when a top grown super silver haze from amsterdam available. Its just incredibly well cured and clean
Riddleme is starting this on a life plant by boiling the roots when they are done. Once started you can chop and it keeps going on. Ive done this last grow and after 7 days drying it tasted like 3 weeks in jars
my stash is almost beige now because it speeds up the curing in generalEver heard of boiling roots? It really does something good imho
Boiling and H2O2 washing are standards for me since last grow. Everyone says just WOW when they see smell taste feel what i have done... Even when a top grown super silver haze from amsterdam available. Its just incredibly well cured and clean
JimmyJames905
New Member
Decarboxylate means to remove one carbon atom from a carbon chain (carboxyl group) releasing CO2. That one atom is the difference between THC-A and Delta 9 THC.
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JimmyJames905
New Member
I've never boiled roots but it would probably accelerate the decarboxylation process by forcing the carbon atom to remove itself before it migrates up the xylem.
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- Thread starter
- #385
Lost In Nugs
New Member
Well maybe i was in the wrong place but i dont think so. what i said bout boiling is legit though. Tested
Isnt it normal that fresh weed is almost only the acidic form of thc and is transforming to delta 9 from itsself while curing? This would mean that more THCA just needs to cure longer to tranform? Maybe i am wrong here too...
As long as thca is the acid form that doesnt get you twisted i may be right. I grabbed the term decarbolyse in connection with the boiling and the breakdown of sugars and other benefitial processes inside the plant. Strange. I thought riddleme is right, i mean he is writing books, but maybe i was too high atm
Wiki says it needs heat or a encymatic catalyst to start the process. I guess the boiling does both untill you dont save the plant from the hot steam rising. I didnt and its great stuff anyway. Wiki says its about the sugars that need to go so it must be this stuff
Acid plus sugars equals weed that has black ash, tastes like crap and doesnt get you high.
Get the curing well to make delta 9 out of the acid, get the endproducts from the sugars out and tadaaa... Good weed.
This whole boiling to get that done much much faster without flushing at all. He claims the decarbolysis needs nitrogen, so its good if the plants are green on harvest day.
I mean i tried it... No flush... Chem ferted all the way... But its the best quality weed ive ever smoked. Good taste after 7 days from chop like i said. After 2 weeks in jars it was a light smoke almost like vapor. Now after 6 weeks or so in jars its like a 3 month cure i had last year without the boil AND 2 weeks flush
Try it. If you are not pleased i send you 5 bucks lol. But you will be happy. The reason nobody is doing this is because it sounds complete crazy and people get afraid ruining their crops this way.
Isnt it normal that fresh weed is almost only the acidic form of thc and is transforming to delta 9 from itsself while curing? This would mean that more THCA just needs to cure longer to tranform? Maybe i am wrong here too...
As long as thca is the acid form that doesnt get you twisted i may be right. I grabbed the term decarbolyse in connection with the boiling and the breakdown of sugars and other benefitial processes inside the plant. Strange. I thought riddleme is right, i mean he is writing books, but maybe i was too high atm
Wiki says it needs heat or a encymatic catalyst to start the process. I guess the boiling does both untill you dont save the plant from the hot steam rising. I didnt and its great stuff anyway. Wiki says its about the sugars that need to go so it must be this stuff
Acid plus sugars equals weed that has black ash, tastes like crap and doesnt get you high.
Get the curing well to make delta 9 out of the acid, get the endproducts from the sugars out and tadaaa... Good weed.
This whole boiling to get that done much much faster without flushing at all. He claims the decarbolysis needs nitrogen, so its good if the plants are green on harvest day.
I mean i tried it... No flush... Chem ferted all the way... But its the best quality weed ive ever smoked. Good taste after 7 days from chop like i said. After 2 weeks in jars it was a light smoke almost like vapor. Now after 6 weeks or so in jars its like a 3 month cure i had last year without the boil AND 2 weeks flush
Try it. If you are not pleased i send you 5 bucks lol. But you will be happy. The reason nobody is doing this is because it sounds complete crazy and people get afraid ruining their crops this way.
JimmyJames905
New Member
My very first DIY COB fixture
I have heard of it. I just haven't tried it. 99% of what you say is true. But decarboxylation does not require Nitrogen. It really has nothing to do with nitrogen. The term decarboxylation literally means "to remove carbon". It is the opposite of carboxylation which is carbon atoms bonding durning photosynthesis.
Also adding sugars to the soil are not useful in any point. Plants create their own sugars (glucose) in the process of photosynthesis. Adding sugars (ie molasses) are useful in converting energy into carbohydrates but this benefits the rhizosphere more than it benefits any taste or quality of smoke. Adding water, sunlight and CO2 will let the plant make its own sugars. Adding them is unnecessary (edited for clarity)
3rd. Black ash and weed that won't burn is usually from excessive Phosphorus build up in the plant. Lack of flushing usually causes this so boiling the root combined with flushing would aid in the consumption of excess phosphates.
4th. Applying heat is the fastest way to decarboxylate. But, decarboxylation will occur naturally in time as both anaerobic and aerobic bacteria will aid in the decompositional breakdown of that carbon chain. If heat doesn't do it...time will.
Also, I respect anyone who writes a book on this subject but I have read many books (even by my good vendor Robert Bergman) that are filled with lapse, incorrect or misleading information. The best books are those published by botanist, professional horticulturist and phytologists. Usually from reputable agricultural universities like the one I attended (University of Guelph). I am not a professional horticulturist or botanist. I am a Biomedicine engineer specializing in chromatography and analytics. So remember, despite my knowledge I am not a botanist.
If you want to read misinformation in a Grow book look at the Grow Boss on YouTube. He pushes that book like a street peddler and there is a section in there on lighting that I know will personally infuriate you. He keeps mentioning how the plant "needs watts". Lol. Like you can fill a glass with watts and pour it on your plant. He insists that you have to have X amount of Watts or X amount of Lumens to grow weed. And as you know very well. That is completely wrong. Plants don't see lumens and you can't "give" a watt. It's a unit of consumption not something Lights "put out".
Check out Grow Boss on YouTube. He's like the Donald Trump of weed. Idiot. Lol.
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I have heard of it. I just haven't tried it. 99% of what you say is true. But decarboxylation does not require Nitrogen. It really has nothing to do with nitrogen. The term decarboxylation literally means "to remove carbon". It is the opposite of carboxylation which is carbon atoms bonding durning photosynthesis.
Also adding sugars to the soil are not useful in any point. Plants create their own sugars (glucose) in the process of photosynthesis. Adding sugars (ie molasses) are useful in converting energy into carbohydrates but this benefits the rhizosphere more than it benefits any taste or quality of smoke. Adding water, sunlight and CO2 will let the plant make its own sugars. Adding them is unnecessary (edited for clarity)
3rd. Black ash and weed that won't burn is usually from excessive Phosphorus build up in the plant. Lack of flushing usually causes this so boiling the root combined with flushing would aid in the consumption of excess phosphates.
4th. Applying heat is the fastest way to decarboxylate. But, decarboxylation will occur naturally in time as both anaerobic and aerobic bacteria will aid in the decompositional breakdown of that carbon chain. If heat doesn't do it...time will.
Also, I respect anyone who writes a book on this subject but I have read many books (even by my good vendor Robert Bergman) that are filled with lapse, incorrect or misleading information. The best books are those published by botanist, professional horticulturist and phytologists. Usually from reputable agricultural universities like the one I attended (University of Guelph). I am not a professional horticulturist or botanist. I am a Biomedicine engineer specializing in chromatography and analytics. So remember, despite my knowledge I am not a botanist.
If you want to read misinformation in a Grow book look at the Grow Boss on YouTube. He pushes that book like a street peddler and there is a section in there on lighting that I know will personally infuriate you. He keeps mentioning how the plant "needs watts". Lol. Like you can fill a glass with watts and pour it on your plant. He insists that you have to have X amount of Watts or X amount of Lumens to grow weed. And as you know very well. That is completely wrong. Plants don't see lumens and you can't "give" a watt. It's a unit of consumption not something Lights "put out".
Check out Grow Boss on YouTube. He's like the Donald Trump of weed. Idiot. Lol.
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JimmyJames905
New Member
My very first DIY COB fixture
Probably the most important video on the basics of plant biology you will ever watch. It's short but explains the whole photosynthetic system in 15 minutes.
Photosynthesis: Crash Course Biology #8 - YouTube
Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App
Probably the most important video on the basics of plant biology you will ever watch. It's short but explains the whole photosynthetic system in 15 minutes.
Photosynthesis: Crash Course Biology #8 - YouTube
Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App
Man'O'Green
Well-Known Member
Hi Seymore:
Good Read, I am subbed in.
My first DIY cob.
I primarily went with the CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 because I got them at a great price an I liked the spectrum.
My whole build including the control panel was under $350.00.
MEAN WELL HLG-185H-C1400B 1400mA $54.00 x 2 = $108.00
Mean Well RT 50b $22.00
Mouser
ARCTIC Alpine 64 GT Rev. 2 8x$8.00= $64.00
Amazon
CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 $10.30 x 8= $82.10
Ebay
Misc. ~$46.00
Well I went a little crazy with the control panel. It is automated by an Arduino Uno; so I came in at around $350.00 for 385 watts. that is just under 50 watts per cob.
I am using an Arduino Uno computer to control the COBs, Cob heatsink fans, the exhaust fan, the far red SemiLeds and the CO2 flow valve for my grow tent. Basically it turns the lights off/on along with the heatsink cooling fans on whatever schedule I want 12/12, 18/6, 20/4 starting at whatever time I want. example = turn the lights on at 2:00pm then off at 8:00am the next morning for an 18/6. Then during the lights on period I can turn off the exhaust fan and inject CO2 until the tent starts to get too warm from the lights then turn the exhaust back on and cool the tent back down. It repeats this cycle until 30 minutes or so prior to lights out. Then at lights out it turns on the 730nm (far red) LEDs for 15 minutes to take advantage of the phytochrome cycle putting the plants to sleep right away. The AC devices are controlled via the SSR-25-da solid state relays and the 12v dc devices are controlled via the small optically isolated relays in the lower middle of the cabinet. I know it seems like a waste of CO2 to run it like that but it is such a small tent (3x3x5) that I can run a complete grow on a 10# tank of CO2 @ a calculated 1500 PPM. So it only costs about $18 for gas.
Happy building
Good Read, I am subbed in.
My first DIY cob.
I primarily went with the CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 because I got them at a great price an I liked the spectrum.
My whole build including the control panel was under $350.00.
MEAN WELL HLG-185H-C1400B 1400mA $54.00 x 2 = $108.00
Mean Well RT 50b $22.00
Mouser
ARCTIC Alpine 64 GT Rev. 2 8x$8.00= $64.00
Amazon
CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 $10.30 x 8= $82.10
Ebay
Misc. ~$46.00
Well I went a little crazy with the control panel. It is automated by an Arduino Uno; so I came in at around $350.00 for 385 watts. that is just under 50 watts per cob.
I am using an Arduino Uno computer to control the COBs, Cob heatsink fans, the exhaust fan, the far red SemiLeds and the CO2 flow valve for my grow tent. Basically it turns the lights off/on along with the heatsink cooling fans on whatever schedule I want 12/12, 18/6, 20/4 starting at whatever time I want. example = turn the lights on at 2:00pm then off at 8:00am the next morning for an 18/6. Then during the lights on period I can turn off the exhaust fan and inject CO2 until the tent starts to get too warm from the lights then turn the exhaust back on and cool the tent back down. It repeats this cycle until 30 minutes or so prior to lights out. Then at lights out it turns on the 730nm (far red) LEDs for 15 minutes to take advantage of the phytochrome cycle putting the plants to sleep right away. The AC devices are controlled via the SSR-25-da solid state relays and the 12v dc devices are controlled via the small optically isolated relays in the lower middle of the cabinet. I know it seems like a waste of CO2 to run it like that but it is such a small tent (3x3x5) that I can run a complete grow on a 10# tank of CO2 @ a calculated 1500 PPM. So it only costs about $18 for gas.
Happy building
JimmyJames905
New Member
Hi Seymore:
Good Read, I am subbed in.
My first DIY cob.
I primarily went with the CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 because I got them at a great price an I liked the spectrum.
My whole build including the control panel was under $350.00.
MEAN WELL HLG-185H-C1400B 1400mA $54.00 x 2 = $108.00
Mean Well RT 50b $22.00
Mouser
ARCTIC Alpine 64 GT Rev. 2 8x$8.00= $64.00
Amazon
CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 $10.30 x 8= $82.10
Ebay
Misc. ~$46.00
Well I went a little crazy with the control panel. It is automated by an Arduino Uno; so I came in at around $350.00 for 385 watts. that is just under 50 watts per cob.
I am using an Arduino Uno computer to control the COBs, Cob heatsink fans, the exhaust fan, the far red SemiLeds and the CO2 flow valve for my grow tent. Basically it turns the lights off/on along with the heatsink cooling fans on whatever schedule I want 12/12, 18/6, 20/4 starting at whatever time I want. example = turn the lights on at 2:00pm then off at 8:00am the next morning for an 18/6. Then during the lights on period I can turn off the exhaust fan and inject CO2 until the tent starts to get too warm from the lights then turn the exhaust back on and cool the tent back down. It repeats this cycle until 30 minutes or so prior to lights out. Then at lights out it turns on the 730nm (far red) LEDs for 15 minutes to take advantage of the phytochrome cycle putting the plants to sleep right away. The AC devices are controlled via the SSR-25-da solid state relays and the 12v dc devices are controlled via the small optically isolated relays in the lower middle of the cabinet. I know it seems like a waste of CO2 to run it like that but it is such a small tent (3x3x5) that I can run a complete grow on a 10# tank of CO2 @ a calculated 1500 PPM. So it only costs about $18 for gas.
Happy building
Amazing build
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Lansky
New Member
Hi Seymore:
Good Read, I am subbed in.
My first DIY cob.
I primarily went with the CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 because I got them at a great price an I liked the spectrum.
My whole build including the control panel was under $350.00.
MEAN WELL HLG-185H-C1400B 1400mA $54.00 x 2 = $108.00
Mean Well RT 50b $22.00
Mouser
ARCTIC Alpine 64 GT Rev. 2 8x$8.00= $64.00
Amazon
CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 $10.30 x 8= $82.10
Ebay
Misc. ~$46.00
Well I went a little crazy with the control panel. It is automated by an Arduino Uno; so I came in at around $350.00 for 385 watts. that is just under 50 watts per cob.
I am using an Arduino Uno computer to control the COBs, Cob heatsink fans, the exhaust fan, the far red SemiLeds and the CO2 flow valve for my grow tent. Basically it turns the lights off/on along with the heatsink cooling fans on whatever schedule I want 12/12, 18/6, 20/4 starting at whatever time I want. example = turn the lights on at 2:00pm then off at 8:00am the next morning for an 18/6. Then during the lights on period I can turn off the exhaust fan and inject CO2 until the tent starts to get too warm from the lights then turn the exhaust back on and cool the tent back down. It repeats this cycle until 30 minutes or so prior to lights out. Then at lights out it turns on the 730nm (far red) LEDs for 15 minutes to take advantage of the phytochrome cycle putting the plants to sleep right away. The AC devices are controlled via the SSR-25-da solid state relays and the 12v dc devices are controlled via the small optically isolated relays in the lower middle of the cabinet. I know it seems like a waste of CO2 to run it like that but it is such a small tent (3x3x5) that I can run a complete grow on a 10# tank of CO2 @ a calculated 1500 PPM. So it only costs about $18 for gas.
Happy building
Goddamn, we got some real serious builders around here! Nice one and I like the price! You could probably code the LED fade function with the UNO.- Thread starter
- #391
Lost In Nugs
New Member
I will mate.
Hey look what i found.
Lady Mac Nugget on patrol. Hopefully she'll move out half starved lol
Hey look what i found.
Lady Mac Nugget on patrol. Hopefully she'll move out half starved lol
About 6 to 8 inches above screen and then still scorg more as they grow.
A Licenced Medicinal Cannabis User
Man'O'Green
Well-Known Member
Lady bugs mean you have something for them to eat - so sorry. I am so careful not to bring anything into my growing area. That is one of the main reasons I do hydro and I change my clothes if I have been out in my organic vegetable garden.
Kriaze
Well-Known Member
That was a lot of reading to catch up on after a night of sleep and a day of work. I never knew there were so many ways to decarboxylate weed, personally I just use my oven and it doesn't take long. Not that I do it often as I don't use edibles but if I want oil or ecig tincture (works a charm) that's the way I go about it, it lasts me for ages in this form and gives a nice clear stone when I'm vaping 
Man O'Green props to your knowledge on the controller unit, I will be hitting you with my +Rep hammer right now
Man O'Green props to your knowledge on the controller unit, I will be hitting you with my +Rep hammer right now
Kriaze
Well-Known Member
Hey Seymour funnily enough I just read that one of the pro growers is debating doing a write up on scrogs, maybe you can give them a push into doing it:
Alien Hydroponic EasyFeed System
Although this particular thread is in regards to the alien hydroponic system he has many grows around the world and they are quite diverse in their nature, you can take what he writes on trust as he is a non believer in misinformation and will let you know if he is unsure on any advice that you ask about rather than spouting out of his arse. You should check him out and ask your question there, you won't regret it.
Alien Hydroponic EasyFeed System
Although this particular thread is in regards to the alien hydroponic system he has many grows around the world and they are quite diverse in their nature, you can take what he writes on trust as he is a non believer in misinformation and will let you know if he is unsure on any advice that you ask about rather than spouting out of his arse. You should check him out and ask your question there, you won't regret it.
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Thats what i want.
Got it... But get a bug claiming i have not entered data. Maybe on my good PC at home
Cool tool man.
Between the mix of my 3000k and 5000k this is what mine looks like all on 1 chart. This is about exactly what the 2 colors together come to running them really soft.
JimmyJames905
New Member
Cool tool man.
Between the mix of my 3000k and 5000k this is what mine looks like all on 1 chart. This is about exactly what the 2 colors together come to running them really soft.
.
I think you're over 1000 PPFD dude. Your shit is bright as hell. Any brighter and you'll need CO2.
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JimmyJames905
New Member
Can you run the Vero 29 simulator? You can DL it at Bridgelux.
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fanleaf
Well-Known Member
That's only running them at 35.5W each. When I go to 50W the ppfd gets outta control lol.
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Where on their site is the tool?
