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The Sauga Ends Here
- Thread starter MrSauga
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syenite
Well-Known Member
X axis and y axis!!??Thanks Smokey... no visits to the leaf doctor yet. I hope it stays that way.
Thank you. It has an autumn feel to it and I could easily see it sitting in my man cave when I get one.
Very goo(d) GDB and thanks much!!
It's really hard to say. The LST's were taller from the get go when I flipped. Both training methods have several bud sites but not one stood out as the wow factor for having more than any other.
It's possible that more secondary shoots are making a better attempt at reaching the canopy on the LST's but it's really hard to say. Since both both Goos were quadded and the LOGKs were LST'd it's not apples for apples anymore.
The plants were at different heights when they went to 12/12and the BeezerChart below shows how fast the Goo's have grown over the LOGKs.
What I did find is that the trunk sizes on the LST's are noticeably thicker.
Thanks carcass! They like getting attention that's for sure... or I like giving it to them which is probably more realistic.
What is harpooning here?
I thought we were growing weed?
Now its like I'm in Grade 10 math...and I was too high then too.
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- #1,965
This is a post the I made on another thread to another member regarding cannabis plant nutrition and understanding the plans needs.
Knowing what a plant needs
It's all about understanding ratios and nutrient ppm levels in plants. Go outside those ratios and expect the plant to react negatively. Even then we can only guess since ratios are based on tissue samples. It would be assumed that we are controlling those ppm levels through the nutes, but does 200 ppm of K in nutrient form equate to 200 ppm of K in the tissue sample?
Potassium, Ca and Mg appear to be needed in larger quantities in comparison to other floriculture species. Increasing the levels of K, contrary to the Mulder's Chart, decreases the availability of Ca and/or Mg. Provide K, Ca and Mg in a 4
1 ratio avoids antagonisms. The image below shows how increasing K effects the uptake of Ca and Mg.
Poinsettias need around 200 ppm K to 100 ppm Ca to 50 ppm Mg and since cannabis is similar in that it's a short-day plant it's a good rule to follow.
So now you know that part. The next is understanding how much P a plant needs. A graduate student, Josh Henry, worked on optimizing P fertilization rates for his master’s degree thesis at NCSU. Plants require a baseline level of P to grow adequately. For a continuous fertilization program for plants grown in a soilless substrate, the target concentration is between 8 ppm and 15 ppm of P. Providing levels below that will result in less plant growth, while concentrations above that level provide little benefit.
Since there really is no data on P needs for cannabis increasing those levels from 15 ppm to 25 ppm would be an acceptable range. Higher than that and you risk antagonisms or stimulations. North Carolina State University has begun an experiment looking into optimal P rates supplied at a constant level throughout the cannabis crop cycle and most likely will refine those recommendations in the near future.
The image below shows the response of Alternanthera to increasing concentrations of P from 0, 5, 10, 20 and 40 ppm (left to right).
You can see the growth slowed after 10 ppm and basically stopped after 20 ppm. Phosphorus is also the primary contributor to plant stretch. Too much P will lead to excessive internode elongation and tall plants. That’s why it’s important to limit excessive P in grow applications. We often hear about growers wanting to add bloom enhancers and yet the plants don't want it and ultimately it leads to deficiencies because of overuse. The next image shows the nutrients that are from a tissue sample of a plant. Again notice the percentages and acceptable ranges.
You can use the following ratios as a guide to growing cannabis:
10 parts Nitrogen
1 to 2 parts Phosphorus
10 parts Potassium
5 parts Calcium
2 to 3 parts Magnesium
1 to 3 parts Sulfur
The micronutrients are important and most can be found in tap water(get a water report) but if you don't use it then of course you need to add those which most ferts carry enough of anyhow.
The nitrogen should be mainly in the nitrate form as it provides more compact and controlled growth. More extensive leaf and stem growth occurs with ammoniacal and urea nitrogen. In general, to avoid excessive stretching and oversized leaves, more than 60 percent of the nitrogen provided to plants should be in the nitrate form. Ideally 70 to 80 percent as this will provide a moderate growth response and avoid overly large cannabis plants.
I'm sure I bored many here but there's more that is readily available online to look up. Is it a science to figure it all out? Sure it is and that's why people spend years understanding it all. But if you try and follow the basics you'll do fine.
Knowing what a plant needs
It's all about understanding ratios and nutrient ppm levels in plants. Go outside those ratios and expect the plant to react negatively. Even then we can only guess since ratios are based on tissue samples. It would be assumed that we are controlling those ppm levels through the nutes, but does 200 ppm of K in nutrient form equate to 200 ppm of K in the tissue sample?
Potassium, Ca and Mg appear to be needed in larger quantities in comparison to other floriculture species. Increasing the levels of K, contrary to the Mulder's Chart, decreases the availability of Ca and/or Mg. Provide K, Ca and Mg in a 4
1 ratio avoids antagonisms. The image below shows how increasing K effects the uptake of Ca and Mg.Poinsettias need around 200 ppm K to 100 ppm Ca to 50 ppm Mg and since cannabis is similar in that it's a short-day plant it's a good rule to follow.
So now you know that part. The next is understanding how much P a plant needs. A graduate student, Josh Henry, worked on optimizing P fertilization rates for his master’s degree thesis at NCSU. Plants require a baseline level of P to grow adequately. For a continuous fertilization program for plants grown in a soilless substrate, the target concentration is between 8 ppm and 15 ppm of P. Providing levels below that will result in less plant growth, while concentrations above that level provide little benefit.
Since there really is no data on P needs for cannabis increasing those levels from 15 ppm to 25 ppm would be an acceptable range. Higher than that and you risk antagonisms or stimulations. North Carolina State University has begun an experiment looking into optimal P rates supplied at a constant level throughout the cannabis crop cycle and most likely will refine those recommendations in the near future.
The image below shows the response of Alternanthera to increasing concentrations of P from 0, 5, 10, 20 and 40 ppm (left to right).
You can see the growth slowed after 10 ppm and basically stopped after 20 ppm. Phosphorus is also the primary contributor to plant stretch. Too much P will lead to excessive internode elongation and tall plants. That’s why it’s important to limit excessive P in grow applications. We often hear about growers wanting to add bloom enhancers and yet the plants don't want it and ultimately it leads to deficiencies because of overuse. The next image shows the nutrients that are from a tissue sample of a plant. Again notice the percentages and acceptable ranges.
You can use the following ratios as a guide to growing cannabis:
10 parts Nitrogen
1 to 2 parts Phosphorus
10 parts Potassium
5 parts Calcium
2 to 3 parts Magnesium
1 to 3 parts Sulfur
The micronutrients are important and most can be found in tap water(get a water report) but if you don't use it then of course you need to add those which most ferts carry enough of anyhow.
The nitrogen should be mainly in the nitrate form as it provides more compact and controlled growth. More extensive leaf and stem growth occurs with ammoniacal and urea nitrogen. In general, to avoid excessive stretching and oversized leaves, more than 60 percent of the nitrogen provided to plants should be in the nitrate form. Ideally 70 to 80 percent as this will provide a moderate growth response and avoid overly large cannabis plants.
I'm sure I bored many here but there's more that is readily available online to look up. Is it a science to figure it all out? Sure it is and that's why people spend years understanding it all. But if you try and follow the basics you'll do fine.
We're learning again!
Dusted
Well-Known Member
This should find a stickyThis is a post the I made on another thread to another member regarding cannabis plant nutrition and understanding the plans needs.
Knowing what a plant needs
It's all about understanding ratios and nutrient ppm levels in plants. Go outside those ratios and expect the plant to react negatively. Even then we can only guess since ratios are based on tissue samples. It would be assumed that we are controlling those ppm levels through the nutes, but does 200 ppm of K in nutrient form equate to 200 ppm of K in the tissue sample?
Potassium, Ca and Mg appear to be needed in larger quantities in comparison to other floriculture species. Increasing the levels of K, contrary to the Mulder's Chart, decreases the availability of Ca and/or Mg. Provide K, Ca and Mg in a 4
Poinsettias need around 200 ppm K to 100 ppm Ca to 50 ppm Mg and since cannabis is similar in that it's a short-day plant it's a good rule to follow.
So now you know that part. The next is understanding how much P a plant needs. A graduate student, Josh Henry, worked on optimizing P fertilization rates for his master’s degree thesis at NCSU. Plants require a baseline level of P to grow adequately. For a continuous fertilization program for plants grown in a soilless substrate, the target concentration is between 8 ppm and 15 ppm of P. Providing levels below that will result in less plant growth, while concentrations above that level provide little benefit.
Since there really is no data on P needs for cannabis increasing those levels from 15 ppm to 25 ppm would be an acceptable range. Higher than that and you risk antagonisms or stimulations. North Carolina State University has begun an experiment looking into optimal P rates supplied at a constant level throughout the cannabis crop cycle and most likely will refine those recommendations in the near future.
The image below shows the response of Alternanthera to increasing concentrations of P from 0, 5, 10, 20 and 40 ppm (left to right).
You can see the growth slowed after 10 ppm and basically stopped after 20 ppm. Phosphorus is also the primary contributor to plant stretch. Too much P will lead to excessive internode elongation and tall plants. That’s why it’s important to limit excessive P in grow applications. We often hear about growers wanting to add bloom enhancers and yet the plants don't want it and ultimately it leads to deficiencies because of overuse. The next image shows the nutrients that are from a tissue sample of a plant. Again notice the percentages and acceptable ranges.
You can use the following ratios as a guide to growing cannabis:
10 parts Nitrogen
1 to 2 parts Phosphorus
10 parts Potassium
5 parts Calcium
2 to 3 parts Magnesium
1 to 3 parts Sulfur
The micronutrients are important and most can be found in tap water(get a water report) but if you don't use it then of course you need to add those which most ferts carry enough of anyhow.
The nitrogen should be mainly in the nitrate form as it provides more compact and controlled growth. More extensive leaf and stem growth occurs with ammoniacal and urea nitrogen. In general, to avoid excessive stretching and oversized leaves, more than 60 percent of the nitrogen provided to plants should be in the nitrate form. Ideally 70 to 80 percent as this will provide a moderate growth response and avoid overly large cannabis plants.
I'm sure I bored many here but there's more that is readily available online to look up. Is it a science to figure it all out? Sure it is and that's why people spend years understanding it all. But if you try and follow the basics you'll do fine.
We're learning again!
The nitrate/ammoniacal part is throwing me off a tick, especially after recent discussions.
So that is effectively saying a 10-2-10 blend, where 7 or 8 of the N’s 10 is nitrate?
Interdasting...
I refer you to the post here regarding what will raise and what will lower the pH of your growing medium (YMMV in hydro as that's not the topic of discussion, in that thread or my conversations with PremierTech).
Over time, nitrate nitrogen will raise the pH of even a buffered medium, and ammoniacal nitrogen will lower it. The blend is not relevant to the effect on pH, just the source of the N.
Over time, nitrate nitrogen will raise the pH of even a buffered medium, and ammoniacal nitrogen will lower it. The blend is not relevant to the effect on pH, just the source of the N.
So sorry for jumping in, but with all the talk about what plants need, I have this dutch passion blueberry that is changing colour hopefully turning purple but just want to make sure
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- #1,971
Done!
Shed nailed it!The nitrate/ammoniacal part is throwing me off a tick, especially after recent discussions.
So that is effectively saying a 10-2-10 blend, where 7 or 8 of the N’s 10 is nitrate?
Interdasting...
The plant looks beautiful AJ. It's hard to see the color you are referring to although I do see some shading. If reddishpurplishbluish then you're probably seeing the colors fade in. I don't see anything on the plant that would lead me to believe you have a deficiency.
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- #1,972
Hey everybody!
Flower update day 12. Just pictures. Over the last two days I have pumped in 5L(qts) of water in each 5gal pot spiked with 4.5g of MC v1.
Flower update day 12. Just pictures. Over the last two days I have pumped in 5L(qts) of water in each 5gal pot spiked with 4.5g of MC v1.
You can already picture those final stacks! Beautiful and healthy and green. Are you concerned that, like most of us as we age, LOGK1 is shrinking?
Edit: thought I was texting my wife 
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- #1,975
I was going to put a reason why it shrunk but thought I would see who actually noticed!
That difference is the apical being pulled down below the other nodes which meant the next highest node was shorter. The Pgoo 1 also had a small pull down but it wasn't the apical, so no negative growth on that one.
As always, gorgeous photos and plants!
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- #1,977
Thanks a bunch Rexer!
StRoostifer
Member
MrS your ladies look perfect man. Your knowledge and attention to detail shows in your girls dude. 
StRoostifer
Member
Hope ya don’t mind me asking a quick question about the nitrogen discussion. I’ve been reading into urea nitrogen and how once it’s broke down it has a neutral effect on the soil. Just curious about what thoughts you may have. 
Ridiculous....
Done!
Hey MrS. Wrt your last post with the beautiful pics - are you considering them “in flower” now?
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