That'll be a great start.
Give FelipeBlu a bit to jump in, he's been helping quite a few on here.
This one has me stumped, yellowing, purpling and curling all at the same time: late flower DWC
- Thread starter ShinSeiki
- Start date
Give FelipeBlu a bit to jump in, he's been helping quite a few on here.
Just so you know, no one here would ever look at your grow and say you're a complete idiot. Every grow is special and everyone that is growing, even more awesome. No one judges here....
Btw...I still lurk lol
Exactly, around here that goes without saying- we're all here to help one another and we want to see each other succeed. There is no bashing or putting down of others on here
Here this might help with mixing your nutrients. Taken from a different site, don't worry if you don't use all the products listed.
taken from different website:
Order Matters!
Nutrients should be added to the water in a specific order to prevent lock-out. Silicon should be added first and given time to dissolve. Cal/Mag is second and should be added before the base nutrients. At the other end, Rapidstart, which has no impact on EC or pH should be added at the absolute end. Rapid start and H2O2 (when used) can be added after the final pH adjustment.
The Order to Mix Nutrients
Add Silicon and give solution at least one hour to dissolve
Add Cal/Mag supplement
Add Base Nutrients
First “Micro”
Second “Grow”
Third “Bloom”
Add Bloom Booster
Add Humic Acid
Add SM-90 (I now use RAW Yucca as a wetting agent instead. See our article: "Recommended Nutrient Supplements for Growing Cannabis")
Measure and adjust the pH of the solution
Add Rapid Start
Add H2O2/beneficial microbes (if needed for reservoir)
could definitely use more for 4 plants. that's not gonna be the issue here though.
unfamiliar but they are probably decent.
that's an issue. you're way too hot for dwc.
i know you mentioned it but it's still in the cards.
if you're using the fish water don't just add nutes on top. pull it for head room and target a lower ppm range. i've never finished higher than 1200 ppm in hydro. it won't matter if "organic" or not. you are also mixing an organic - the fish water - with nutes derived differently - hesi - and they may not play well together.
most aquaponic systems don't call for extra nutes. plant 3 is probably doing just fine because you aren't adding.
it's a nute imbalance for sure. the question is what ? it's hard to tell what would be going on with the fish water plus additions and your ppm being so high.
edit : also curious what you have going for air in the buckets
- Thread starter
- #25
I'm doing a reset today, will re-mix the nutrients(plant 3 i will keep on tank water since it seems to like it).
Hesi is decent, although i kinda regret not going for a simpler 3-part set.
Also, next grow i'm definitely going for bio nutrients, i suspect the non-bio nutrients are creating a hostile environment for the bacteria, killing them shortly after i put them in the bucket. I have a buddy who works in a lab(completely unrelated to bottany) and he's agreed to have a microscope look at some samples to compare bacterial activity, maybe even run some cultures if he can sneak them into the normal lab operations.
i think you'll be rewarded simplifying the approach.
you could likely do it all on the aquaculture if you produced enough fish water.
you could likely do it all on the aquaculture if you produced enough fish water.
- Thread starter
- #27
I've been breeding a couple species for the last few years and selling to local hobbyists, but since the pandemic hit i have stalled the breeding(-food -temp) because i don't really want people coming in and out of my house untill things get better.
As it stands right now, i get about 40g of fully "bioactive" water every 2 weeks, but once i start conditioning the fish for breeding(+food +temp) i'll be getting over 40g per week. That needs time though(a month give or take), as the bacterial population takes time to catch up to the increased bioload. Take too much too soon and you risk crashing the colony and having to start the tank from scratch(some of these tanks have been balanced for 5+years, making them "bacterial super-breeders").
I know i could make all this way easier for myself, but i'm a tinkerer and i'm too curious for my own sake, that will always be a part of anything i do, even though i realise sometimes i'm just making things harder for myself.
Gonna leave a picture up so you have a clearer idea of what one of my tanks looks like.
@Joshualuck was tinkering with aquaponics recently but I kinda lost track….
hopefully he will drop in with this tag
hopefully he will drop in with this tag
- Thread starter
- #29
- Thread starter
- #30
@Rexer Scrolling through past aquaponics grows for info, i see your name pop up all the time, you used to be super into aquaponics, what happened?
- Thread starter
- #31
Heaters calibrated for 21c and plopped in, the yellowing hasn't gotten worse so at least there's that, gotta be pacient now and let them bounce back. On the bottom right corner is a plant i haven't really mentioned yet, a runt that i germinated way late in case something went wrong and i had to replace a plant in a hurry. Ended up 3d-printing a mini DWC support to fit a regular bucket i had laying around, had nothing but tank water and it's always been kept in the worst spot of the tent(light wise).
Hiya amigos!
I just saw that Rexer pinged me yesterday - sorry I missed the call. I’m gonna go back now to the OP and check out what’s going on..
I just saw that Rexer pinged me yesterday - sorry I missed the call. I’m gonna go back now to the OP and check out what’s going on..
I've yet to give it a try to be honest. It'll happen in the next 5 years or so. I gotta build my indoor hydroponic vegetable room first. Two medical grow rooms to be built as well.
It's in the plans, it will happen, but we just got this place, and there's only so much $$ in the budget.
Okay, I’m back
ShinSeki:
Chemistry wise, the base water i'm using is "used" fishtank water, so don't be freaked out by the high PPM, adding HESI hydro nutrients at half strength to supplement the nutrients already in the water.
I’m not really freaked out, but I hate unknowns when it comes to nutrition. Do you have any idea what your water chemistry is? Also, I don’t have HESI in my database and information I can find seems incomplete. It looks like they are a one-part (one for Veg and one for Flowering) and each appears to include Ca, Mg, and micros - I can only find NPK percentages though. Are you using the just the Bloom or the PK also?
However, the next photo shows the extent of the apparent deficiencies.
Here I’m seeing advanced K def and some possible Mg def.
Rexer is onto something here, but I still suspect the nutrition being provided is missing.
ShinSeki:
Chemistry wise, the base water i'm using is "used" fishtank water, so don't be freaked out by the high PPM, adding HESI hydro nutrients at half strength to supplement the nutrients already in the water.
I’m not really freaked out, but I hate unknowns when it comes to nutrition. Do you have any idea what your water chemistry is? Also, I don’t have HESI in my database and information I can find seems incomplete. It looks like they are a one-part (one for Veg and one for Flowering) and each appears to include Ca, Mg, and micros - I can only find NPK percentages though. Are you using the just the Bloom or the PK also?
Some of this seems attributable to phenotype differences. There’s no real control, so it’s difficult to determine what contributions all your variables are making.
Wow - very pretty!Purple Domina, AKA Plant 1
However, the next photo shows the extent of the apparent deficiencies.
Here I’m seeing advanced K def and some possible Mg def.
Indeed! Fertilizer solutions in concentration can adversely combine to prevent some elements from being available to the plants. Bill is giving excellent advice here.
And here also.
Rexer is onto something here, but I still suspect the nutrition being provided is missing.
I missed @bluter‘s excellent post somehow.
I alluded to the importance of knowing your water chemistry, but what he is saying here is spot on
I was wondering about this also.
Thank you FelipeBlu! I too suspect there is possibly more then one deficiency that has gone chronic.
- Thread starter
- #37
@FelipeBlu Hey buddy! thanks for joining in!
A lot to unpack but i'll try to get to all of it.
This is the nutrient pack i'm using, HESI Starterbox Hydro | led-grower.eu
It's a 2-part with PK and a couple of bells and whistles(boost, root, vitamins).
I'm finishing up an order for new nutrients, seeds for the next grow, calmag, NPK test kit and a few other bits and bobs, anything i should add here?
Also, this is at least a couple days out, anything i can do in the meantime?
For aeration i have the pumps that came with the buckets(pretty ordinary aquarium air pumps). Those are hooked up to those flexible hose type air stones, those clog like crazy but i'm finishing up a 3d-printed design that (hopefully)never clogs and stays at the center of the bucket(fitment prototype is printing now, final version should be ready is a couple more days).
Something else we haven't touched on, but since these are all autos i've kept them at 22/2 and recently pulled back a bit to 18/6 when the problems started showing, should i go back? should i go to 24/0?
A lot to unpack but i'll try to get to all of it.
This is the nutrient pack i'm using, HESI Starterbox Hydro | led-grower.eu
It's a 2-part with PK and a couple of bells and whistles(boost, root, vitamins).
I'm finishing up an order for new nutrients, seeds for the next grow, calmag, NPK test kit and a few other bits and bobs, anything i should add here?
Also, this is at least a couple days out, anything i can do in the meantime?
For aeration i have the pumps that came with the buckets(pretty ordinary aquarium air pumps). Those are hooked up to those flexible hose type air stones, those clog like crazy but i'm finishing up a 3d-printed design that (hopefully)never clogs and stays at the center of the bucket(fitment prototype is printing now, final version should be ready is a couple more days).
Something else we haven't touched on, but since these are all autos i've kept them at 22/2 and recently pulled back a bit to 18/6 when the problems started showing, should i go back? should i go to 24/0?
The more light - the more the plants work to convert that energy to sugars and other organic building blocks. Since they are already stressed from deficiencies - it would probably be a good idea to let them recover some before kicking it up. Despite your lower ppfd from 150W, and that 18/6 might cut into your yield, I would stick with what you’re at for maybe a week.
- Thread starter
- #39
@FelipeBlu I knew i'd forget something, i've been using the PK rather conservatively because the provided schedule is in "weeks" and i'd always assumed mine were behind on account of all the mistakes i've made, today's reset upped the PK to the strictly recommended dose.
@Rexer About the aquaponics, it took me over 15 years to get back into growing so i know what you mean, whenever you feel like the time has come, let me know... I don't know much about growing, but i could set up a tank with my eyes closed and i'd love a chance to give back for all the help and support.
@Rexer About the aquaponics, it took me over 15 years to get back into growing so i know what you mean, whenever you feel like the time has come, let me know... I don't know much about growing, but i could set up a tank with my eyes closed and i'd love a chance to give back for all the help and support.
- Thread starter
- #40
Ah, and also, i have some auxiliary LED's up, 75w across 5 lights but they are 6500k(cool white), should i keep them or am i just wasting electricity by having them on? New lights are definitely near the top of the list, might run these through next grow's veg but i'm definitely flowering on something better(Mars hydro seems to be the "bang for buck" king right now so i'm looking into those).
