Yellow margins week 5 of flower

[flowrrpowrr]

if you are feeding the 1000ppm total, late bloom would assume you're on 700scale. 500scale would be super hot, and i would expect the crisping and burning.

I think I wasn't clear about the nutes.
I've been building the ppm with increased nutes as they get further into bloom.
It's not random, I'm following a schedule.

 

[Emilya Green]

You say you stopped using the FF nutes because you thought you saw signs of salt buildup. Then you moved to another synthetic nute, that also leaves salt as the nutes cast off their chelation bonds...

My question is, did you ever deal with that salt buildup with a proper 3x the container size flush? A salt lockout would present as multiple deficiencies and could be the core problem here.

 

[flowrrpowrr]

You say you stopped using the FF nutes because you thought you saw signs of salt buildup. Then you moved to another synthetic nute, that also leaves salt as the nutes cast off their chelation bonds...

My question is, did you ever deal with that salt buildup with a proper 3x the container size flush? A salt lockout would present as multiple deficiencies and could be the core problem here

I understand about the nutes. I read something specific about FF trio and salt buildup and had some GH Floratrio here already, so I decided to give it a try. I've never done a 3x flush indoors, so I suppose if salt was the problem it still is the problem. I did another flush this weekend but not that size.

 

[Emilya Green]

I understand about the nutes. I read something specific about FF trio and salt buildup and had some GH Floratrio here already, so I decided to give it a try. I've never done a 3x flush indoors, so I suppose if salt was the problem it still is the problem. I did another flush this weekend but not that size.

Feeding with plain water is not a flush. I find myself reasonably confident that salt lockout is your problem

 

[bluter]

Feeding with plain water is not a flush. I find myself reasonably confident that salt lockout is your problem

he's running 350ppm of mystery stuff with every feed. so if his schedule calls for 1000 he's adding 650 to the base tap water.

that never works long term.

 

[flowrrpowrr]

he's running 350ppm of mystery stuff with every feed. so if his schedule calls for 1000 he's adding 650 to the base tap water.

that never works long term.

I measure nutes and I measure water whenever I feed. My schedule calls for ml/gal, not for 1000 ppm or any specific EC reading. I generally use 1.5l/plant and I use the moisture meter to make adjustments for individual plants.

 

[flowrrpowrr]

Feeding with plain water is not a flush. I find myself reasonably confident that salt lockout is your problem

That may be behind all this.
I put about 2.5 gal of ph water through each plant this weekend and carried away most of that.
It's prob as close as I'll get to a flush right now

 

[Emilya Green]

That may be behind all this.
I put about 2.5 gal of ph water through each plant this weekend and carried away most of that.
It's prob as close as I'll get to a flush right now

That means you only moved about 1 gallon through the soil, and not nearly enough to flush out the salt. As you have seen, the problem remains. I strongly suggest committing to doing it right... it literally will save your grow. 9 gallons of water through 3 gallons of soil. Having to carry each container to the bathtub 3 times each grow to do this was the main incentive for me to go organic, and get away from chelated nutes and the need to flush.

And, since you are flushing out all the nutes at this time, there is no need to pH adjust all of that water, because getting into the proper range for your nutes to break free of their chelation is the ONLY reason we need to pH adjust our incoming waters. The plants and microbes and soil really doesn't care what the pH is, within reason of course. Warm water helps to dissolve the salt too. Mix some aloe or another wetting agent in there, and the water will move the salt even better. You got to do it though, seriously. If one takes Shortcuts, one grows Short plants... short of product that is.

 

[bluter]

I measure nutes and I measure water whenever I feed. My schedule calls for ml/gal, not for 1000 ppm or any specific EC reading. I generally use 1.5l/plant and I use the moisture meter to make adjustments for individual plants.

that doesn't quite square with your earlier posts.

this indicated you were feeding by ppm. you also shouldn't feed soil by exact liquid amounts, feed by what it holds.

I don't know, but believe it's high Cal.
My feeds range from 600 - 1000 ppm usually. High end lately since we're getting late in bloom
I measure nutes and water when feeding

this tells me your water isn't stable enough to feed by ppm

I have used GH CalMag for most of the feedings. I probably overused it. I misunderstood the feed schedule I'm using and added a tsp/gal. My tap tests between 250-350ppm. I upped my nutes at start of flower. I have a larger group going into flower in a few weeks and I'll start ramping up the nutes earlier.

and that you are adding calmag on top of the calcium in the water..

this says you are not feeding by ppm and add nutes on top of water that could be putting you over the top for the ppm feed level you need to be at

I measure nutes and I measure water whenever I feed. My schedule calls for ml/gal, not for 1000 ppm or any specific EC reading. I generally use 1.5l/plant and I use the moisture meter to make adjustments for individual plants.

at present it is kind of hard to tell what basis you feed your plant on.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Recharge by Real Growers makes the claim on their label, "May eliminate nutrient & pH lockout"...

"The microbes in Recharge help regulate pH level at the rhizosphere, making it so your plant can better access the nutrients you're feeding it."

You could start with the flush that Emilya is recommending, and do it with pure, filtered water or rainwater – not tap water.

Then let a dry cycle occur. Then it seems you need to resolve the feeding issues, and possibly your tap water is a problem as well. I recommend fertigating using more water.

If problems persist, then there could be a root zone issue – perhaps a pathogenic fungus. In that case, a water-in product like Recharge or Mikrobs could work – make sure you get the one that contains Trichoderma species. Trichoderma is the fungus that kills pathogenic fungi and also activates the plant's immune system.

It could only help to add a treatment of Recharge or Mikrobs after that first dry cycle, post flush. I recently used Mikrobs microbial superpack, 1 tsp. per gallon pure water.

 

[flowrrpowrr]

Recharge by Real Growers makes the claim on their label, "May eliminate nutrient & pH lockout"...

"The microbes in Recharge help regulate pH level at the rhizosphere, making it so your plant can better access the nutrients you're feeding it."

You could start with the flush that Emilya is recommending, and do it with pure, filtered water or rainwater – not tap water.

Then let a dry cycle occur. Then it seems you need to resolve the feeding issues, and possibly your tap water is a problem as well. I recommend fertigating using more water.

If problems persist, then there could be a root zone issue – perhaps a pathogenic fungus. In that case, a water-in product like Recharge or Mikrobs could work – make sure you get the one that contains Trichoderma species. Trichoderma is the fungus that kills pathogenic fungi and also activates the plant's immune system.

It could only help to add a treatment of Recharge or Mikrobs after that first dry cycle, post flush. I recently used Mikrobs microbial superpack, 1 tsp. per gallon pure water.

thank you. that sounds like a good idea. I'll look into them

 

[flowrrpowrr]

that doesn't quite square with your earlier posts.

this indicated you were feeding by ppm. you also shouldn't feed soil by exact liquid amounts, feed by what it holds.




this tells me your water isn't stable enough to feed by ppm





and that you are adding calmag on top of the calcium in the water..

this says you are not feeding by ppm and add nutes on top of water that could be putting you over the top for the ppm feed level you need to be at





at present it is kind of hard to tell what basis you feed your plant on.

Don't know why you think that. I measure nutes and I measure water whenever I feed and I've never said I did it any other way. I only measure the ppm/ec so I'm aware of the numbers and that's how I know what the trend has been. I measure the runoff ph and ppm/ec to get an idea of what's happening in the soil.
I use the howweedgrow feed schedule which is all ml/gal.

https://www.howweedgrow.com/Howweedgrow%20Ultimate%20Chart%20Cheat%20Sheet.pdf

I use a moisture meter and sometimes vary how much water each plant gets in between feedings, but generally I water to runoff and vacuum off the excess.

 

[flowrrpowrr]

That means you only moved about 1 gallon through the soil, and not nearly enough to flush out the salt. As you have seen, the problem remains. I strongly suggest committing to doing it right... it literally will save your grow. 9 gallons of water through 3 gallons of soil. Having to carry each container to the bathtub 3 times each grow to do this was the main incentive for me to go organic, and get away from chelated nutes and the need to flush.

And, since you are flushing out all the nutes at this time, there is no need to pH adjust all of that water, because getting into the proper range for your nutes to break free of their chelation is the ONLY reason we need to pH adjust our incoming waters. The plants and microbes and soil really doesn't care what the pH is, within reason of course. Warm water helps to dissolve the salt too. Mix some aloe or another wetting agent in there, and the water will move the salt even better. You got to do it though, seriously. If one takes Shortcuts, one grows Short plants... short of product that is.

thank you for your advice. My plants are supported by nets, in tents, and are in a location where I can't deal with 14 gallons of runoff per plant. I'm sure you are correct that this would help, but the logistics are a real barrier. This is my first grow using trellis. The stems were too weak to stand after the root aphid infestation, so I used nets to support them as they recovered. I can't carry them to the shower because I can't cut everything apart until harvest.

 

[bluter]

Don't know why you think that.

you're not following what i mean. i meant more the technique.

i'm not sure if anyone pointed this resource out to you

The Proper Way To Water A Potted Plant

The Proper Way to Water a Potted Plant Also covered: the importance of pH and why we successively up-pot How to Water Over the last several years I have put a lot of study into this, and I feel that I can now define the proper way to water a potted plant. Keep in mind that this discussion...

www.420magazine.com

have a read through em's tutorial.

 

[flowrrpowrr]

you're not following what i mean. i meant more the technique.

i'm not sure if anyone pointed this resource out to you

The Proper Way To Water A Potted Plant

The Proper Way to Water a Potted Plant Also covered: the importance of pH and why we successively up-pot How to Water Over the last several years I have put a lot of study into this, and I feel that I can now define the proper way to water a potted plant. Keep in mind that this discussion...

www.420magazine.com

have a read through em's tutorial.

will do. thanks

 

[flowrrpowrr]

Just an update to the ongoing story for anyone still around...
We have a tropical depression in the gulf and the first real precip in forever.
I've collected about 100 gal of rain water with ph of 8 and ppm of <15.
I got 100 ft of tubing and a 120v submersible pump that I'm using outside to move water to each plant.
When my drain pan fills I'm moving the pump inside to push the runoff back outside.
I'm through 8 of 13 plants and expecting more rain today!