Alaskan1 Indica Grow Tent #2

im running a 2x2 cardboard box now woth the 6inch pulling air out 4 icnh passive intake and it wants to suck walls of the box down and still not emogh air coming in but as far as vent hot air cant and scrub it too if I pull air from outside through my hood alpne lets say 20 and below here for winter a problem and ill have to exhaust it in my bedroom np holes in doors company can see it easy and ran thesame fans in my closet and had temp issuesbut even if I go filter-fan-hood not enough cold air comes in so the question is really more of can the 4inch work how I described? when runnin after 6inch so filter-6-4-hood-out of tnet into mty bed room the 6 will also be on and thermostat to cut off at 68c but 4 will still run
 
Sorry but I'm having a hard time following what your're trying to say. Typing on a phone can be a bitch!
Last winter before I had AC I had a fan in the window and I kept the window cracked to keep the room cool. the cooler I needed it in the room the more I cracked the window open.
If your box still isn't cool enough with the 4 inch hose then you need to go the next size up and try a 6 in passive intake.
The problem your going to run into is that if you can't get the heat from the tent out of the room then all your doing is heating the room the tent is in.

I presonally do not thing what you're suggesting will work. If one fan is running at say 500 CFM and then the other is running at say 350 cFM the fastest you'll get the exhaust out is the lowest number in the line.
 
That is mostly true... If the 500CFM is in the intake, which I don't see why it would be, yes the tent/box would balloon, but it would eventually even out to forcing the 350 fan above it's rated CFM and settle on, I'd say, around 450-475... If you force air in, and there are cracks, it WILL leave to equalize pressure inside...

Now, on the adverse... If the 500 CFM fan is extracting air and forcing it out, it must, and will, come in from somewhere. It will run past the intake of the 350 fan, and basically the 350 fan will be sitting there spinning free, wasting energy. 500CFM out, unless the box collapses entirely, 500 CFM will come in. It may be restricted some and even out at about 450-475, but still, it's above the 350 in.

Might as well make it passive intake, and do away with the 350 fan in.
 
You guys gonna make my head assplode. Not sure why if the passive hole is big enough why bother with a intake. I'm not using a tent but have plastic up and i'm running I think 550cfm exhaust and 4' passive and there is some negative pressure but not pulling it off the walls. My $.02,$.01 after taxes.:peace:

ok when I hook my 6 inch up to my 4 inch filter it cuts my cfm's down how much? idk but a very signifigant amount but with me only being able to only pull air in need as much possible but im thinking the 6 is not pulling the cfm's through the filter that the 4 pulls just laying on the flor hooked to nothing and on your 550 cfm fan are u,pulling through a carbon filter ive read that a filter thats packed will cut your cfm's in half and my 6 inch inline is 424 cfm's and my 4 is 260 cfm's so if,the 6 gets cut in half by the filter the 4 incher would at least make the 5 pull the 260 cfms the 4 is pullin right? and ill put the passive as a 6 inch not 4 I think if all of this ranting makes sense
 
You guys gonna make my head assplode. Not sure why if the passive hole is big enough why bother with a intake. I'm not using a tent but have plastic up and i'm running I think 550cfm exhaust and 4' passive and there is some negative pressure but not pulling it off the walls. My $.02,$.01 after taxes.:peace:

Well I would think that a 4in passive hole would be big enough but he seems to be having an issue with it...........so go bigger :)



Principles of effective ventilation
Many growers own fans powerful enough to move air of a city block in Manhattan, but has failed to install it properly, causing greater pressure reduction. This extra pressure drop is called the system effect or system dissipation, and can cause the fan to produce a smaller volume of air than indicated in the fan diagram.

The following factors must be considered in order to avoid system dissipation:

At the Inlet
* The distance to the nearest wall must be more than 0.75 the inlet's diameter.
* The inlet duct's cross section must not be greater than 112% or less than 92% of the fan inlet.
* The inlet duct's length must be at least 1 x the duct diameter.
* The inlet duct must no have any obstacles to the air flow (dampers, branching or similar).

At the outlet:
* The angle at the reduction of the duct cross-section must be less than 15 degrees
* The angle at the enlargement of the duct cross-section must be less than 7 degrees
* A straight length of at least 3x duct diameter is required after a duct fan.
* Avoid 90 degree bends (use 45 degree)
* Bends must be shaped so that they follow the air stream after the fan.

If the connections are different from this, there could be a greater pressure reduction.

Circular duct fans for example, are propulsive, pushing the air. And should be installed so that the long duct is after the fan itself.
 
Checked all the plants in my grow room and not a mite to be seen

All the plants in my mother room I can't say the same for dammit. These mothers always seem to have mites and it's really starting to piss me off. Think I get rid of them and then they are right back. Think I will take Coreys advice and shoot the lil bastards with Avid. I will only use this stuff on the mother plants though. Lets see them survive that stuff.
 
Well I would think that a 4in passive hole would be big enough but he seems to be having an issue with it...........so go bigger :)



Principles of effective ventilation
Many growers own fans powerful enough to move air of a city block in Manhattan, but has failed to install it properly, causing greater pressure reduction. This extra pressure drop is called the system effect or system dissipation, and can cause the fan to produce a smaller volume of air than indicated in the fan diagram.

The following factors must be considered in order to avoid system dissipation:

At the Inlet
* The distance to the nearest wall must be more than 0.75 the inlet's diameter.
* The inlet duct's cross section must not be greater than 112% or less than 92% of the fan inlet.
* The inlet duct's length must be at least 1 x the duct diameter.
* The inlet duct must no have any obstacles to the air flow (dampers, branching or similar).

At the outlet:
* The angle at the reduction of the duct cross-section must be less than 15 degrees
* The angle at the enlargement of the duct cross-section must be less than 7 degrees
* A straight length of at least 3x duct diameter is required after a duct fan.
* Avoid 90 degree bends (use 45 degree)
* Bends must be shaped so that they follow the air stream after the fan.

If the connections are different from this, there could be a greater pressure reduction.

Circular duct fans for example, are propulsive, pushing the air. And should be installed so that the long duct is after the fan itself.
Now see... if I had posted those parameters, I would have been called a geek, and ridiculed for TMI... You do it and it's informative...

You suck. :blalol: +rep
 
Checked all the plants in my grow room and not a mite to be seen

All the plants in my mother room I can't say the same for dammit. These mothers always seem to have mites and it's really starting to piss me off. Think I get rid of them and then they are right back. Think I will take Coreys advice and shoot the lil bastards with Avid. I will only use this stuff on the mother plants though. Lets see them survive that stuff.

Avid is some really strong and effective stuff... I would still use it every three days for 2 weeks just to be sure, get the soil, too.
 
haven't uploaded a photo in a long time. Still need to get in there to defoliate!
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