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- #61
Auto Guerilla Grow Near Glasgow - Scotland
I think she is going to be just fine bud!
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- #63
Well it now 5 days on since the breakage and the plant has not wilted or shown any other problems so it safe to say that the plant has recovered. Just these damn stems on all the plants are still very thin and spindly and i cant risk taking the splints off just in case the wind blows them over. I have them sitting out of the wind just now as it is breezy and dont want to risk further damage. If i didnt have so many plants i would transplant into bigger pots up to the cotyledons but that requires more space and if we get visitors then there nowhere to put them. Also taking them outside to the site would not be very inconspicuous. Small pots were decided on for stealth reasons. Once they get transplanted outside then can plant them deep down so the cotyledons are at ground level.
All the plants are looking healthy and fine and most are now sprouting their 3rd set of true leaves (well at the main stem they are, and still very small). Am now hoping to see a major growth spurt as at 3 weeks old i would have expected bigger plants with bigger leaves and also would have been looking to top some of them as well. Growth has been painfully slow. Also have the first set of true leaves on 4 of the bombs with signs of small brown spots with a little bit of yellowing (very faint). With plants being this young in new soil that has enough food for 4-6 weeks of growth i wouldnt have expected to start using any feeding at all until they went outdoors. I will post pics just shortly and any advice will be appreciated. Even first feed outside at transplant stage in around 12 days time would only be 1/4 strength.
All the plants are looking healthy and fine and most are now sprouting their 3rd set of true leaves (well at the main stem they are, and still very small). Am now hoping to see a major growth spurt as at 3 weeks old i would have expected bigger plants with bigger leaves and also would have been looking to top some of them as well. Growth has been painfully slow. Also have the first set of true leaves on 4 of the bombs with signs of small brown spots with a little bit of yellowing (very faint). With plants being this young in new soil that has enough food for 4-6 weeks of growth i wouldnt have expected to start using any feeding at all until they went outdoors. I will post pics just shortly and any advice will be appreciated. Even first feed outside at transplant stage in around 12 days time would only be 1/4 strength.
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- #64
Here the pics as promised. Hopefully someone can offer some insight soon. Last watered on sunday so another watering is due soon but with temps being a bit low lately and not too much sun then will wait another couple of days before watering or perhaps giving them a very light feed if someone thinks it a good idea.
Depending on the soil you used, I doubt there is any need to feed the plants yet. However, if you want to feed some tomato fertiliser used at 1/4 strength or less should be okay.
On the watering front... No need to water if the soil isn't drying out. It's a bit of a catch 22 but the watering is a means of oxygenating the soil each time which is important for root and plant growth. On the other hand, overly wet soil or soil that is watered too regularly stifles root growth, and in turn plant growth.
On the watering front... No need to water if the soil isn't drying out. It's a bit of a catch 22 but the watering is a means of oxygenating the soil each time which is important for root and plant growth. On the other hand, overly wet soil or soil that is watered too regularly stifles root growth, and in turn plant growth.
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
The pre-fertilised soil will release nutrients as you water it, feeding them now might result in nutrient burn or lock out.
Autos are generally quite easy to over fertilise, and a hot soil will slow down the young plants.
I suspect that or pH imbalance is why they get brown spots and yellowing, however the new growth looks nice and healthy so no biggie
Stick your index finger in the soil to the first joint if it feels dry on your finger tip, give them some water.
Lifting the pots will also give you an idea of how much water is in them.
Brilliant idea with the straw splints
Autos are generally quite easy to over fertilise, and a hot soil will slow down the young plants.
I suspect that or pH imbalance is why they get brown spots and yellowing, however the new growth looks nice and healthy so no biggie
Stick your index finger in the soil to the first joint if it feels dry on your finger tip, give them some water.
Lifting the pots will also give you an idea of how much water is in them.
Brilliant idea with the straw splints
Probably ok now to start a drop or two of potassium silicate to your water. The silica will toughen up those stems quick.
Glasgrow...the plants starting 2nd leaf set are ok to start feeding but keep it light brother. Nothing to worry about the brown spots, common. If pics accurate color, could use some N. Keep your eye on the moddled green & yellow spots...that's usually Mg shortage. Forgot what you had in seedling soil, but new plants need P & K to build roots. Looking very nice, getting stronger!
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- #70
Probably ok now to start a drop or two of potassium silicate to your water. The silica will toughen up those stems quick.
Potassium silicate. What is that and where would i find it? I assume you start off lightly and increase as the plants get older?
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- #71
Glasgrow...the plants starting 2nd leaf set are ok to start feeding but keep it light brother. Nothing to worry about the brown spots, common. If pics accurate color, could use some N. Keep your eye on the moddled green & yellow spots...that's usually Mg shortage. Forgot what you had in seedling soil, but new plants need P & K to build roots. Looking very nice, getting stronger!
Am aware of plant needing nitrogen but phosphorous and potassium this early on, i thought that was more needed for flowering? I know that nitrogen gets cut completely towards the end and that PK is required more, and i know that PK is required throughout the grow as well. I may wait a few more days with water and let the roots grow a bit more. If i can get through till wed/thur then may add 1/8 strength tomato fertiliser.
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- #72
Where you coming from donflo? If you're from anywhere else in the uk or from any place that prohibits growing/selling weed then the laws here are pretty much the same. If you get caught with a bit of smoke on you then likely just a warning/caution. Get caught growing then you may get a small fine or community service depending on how many you are growing and at what stage of growth they are at. Bud can be easy to get if you know where to look, you can smell people smoking it along the street from time to time, but prices are not great - £60/£70 a quarter, perhaps 1.8g/1.7g for a score.
An indoor grow is the way to go for some personal and perhaps selling a wee bit to cover costs. Just do the usual - tell as few people as possible, keep the smell down as best you can and dont grow huge amounts. A grow tent or small cupboard with around 4-8 plants will suffice. Only autos can be done this way outdoors, photos are a nightmare unless you can make trips back and forth to your site every 12 hours to force flower. Here my previois attempt at an outdoor grow with photos - Glasgrow's Outdoor Grow - Early Skunk - Scotland
Lastly finding a site is easy enough. Search google maps, have a look for fields/woods and scope around them in person to check viability.
Prices are pretty high, im coming from NY. my girlfriend is going to glasgow to continue her studies, im tagging along. I was planning on growing as soon as i get there. Thanks for the advice, im probably gunna try to do a few gurrilla grows. I know this but is weird and an off topic question but do you think it would be easy to get an off the books job? Ill be there for a good few months but i wont have a visa, ill be coming back an forth from the US.
Read your journal and it looks awesome, im probably going to attempt to do something very similar to that.
Thanks again
Read your journal and it looks awesome, im probably going to attempt to do something very similar to that.
Thanks again
Silica is import an throughout the growth cycle....builds structural strength, plant immunity, good against fungal, pest, high/low temperature threats. In flower will aid trichome development & promote bigger buds. Mostly in liquid form. I use mfr. local to me...DynaGro ProTek. Many brands available. I use ~.5 tsp/gal. I'd say mandatory for guerrilla grow.
P is not only essential in bloom but throughout cycle. Early on critical for root formation. K critical in re water transport. Most K sources like kelp will also give you minerals.
For outdoors, especially guerrilla, dry nutrients best...slow & steady uptake. Ok to start now. Also don't forget some mycorrihizae when you transplant.
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- #75
Day 24 -
All seem to be doing well. The 2 in the big pots seem to have increase in size on the leaves. The small ones - the bombs (on 6 of them) have rusty brown spots and 1 rrf has 2 or 3 wee rusty spots too. Not sure what is causing it. Gonna water tomorrow with black treacle (similar to molasses), been a week since last water.
Any idea on what these spots are and how to stop it? Is it a big problem? Any why it mostly the bombs that have them?
Will remove splints tomorrow or on wed and use stakes for all the plants. Will attach with green garden thread.
All seem to be doing well. The 2 in the big pots seem to have increase in size on the leaves. The small ones - the bombs (on 6 of them) have rusty brown spots and 1 rrf has 2 or 3 wee rusty spots too. Not sure what is causing it. Gonna water tomorrow with black treacle (similar to molasses), been a week since last water.
Any idea on what these spots are and how to stop it? Is it a big problem? Any why it mostly the bombs that have them?
Will remove splints tomorrow or on wed and use stakes for all the plants. Will attach with green garden thread.
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- #76
I never used mycorrihizae last time i transplanted nor this time. I seem to do a good job without it. Not got time or money to get it either. I finish the plots this thur (hopefully) and going to sprinkle blood fish and bone meal over freshly laid compost. Can you overdo it with meal or is it ok to use sparingly? Any special prep for it needed or is sprinkling on the top ok? Never used it before so needing advice. Hoping this will deter deer from the site too.
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
The brown spots are likely to be caused by nutrient(s) that they either have too much or too little of and the lock out of other nutrients that follow, or perhaps a pH imbalance.
The bombs are probably more sensitive to whatever this is in their current stage than the other strains.
The bombs are probably more sensitive to whatever this is in their current stage than the other strains.
Organic nutrients can cause problems if not added prior & allowing soil mix to"cook". Allows time for microbes to do their work. If not done due to time/other reasons, suggest lighter amts. when top dressing at transplant & over life of plant.
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- #79
Organic nutrients can cause problems if not added prior & allowing soil mix to"cook". Allows time for microbes to do their work. If not done due to time/other reasons, suggest lighter amts. when top dressing at transplant & over life of plant.
Well at the moment no nutes have been used. Soil mix was general multi-purpose compost so had enough feed for 4-6 weeks.
After a bit of research it seems like a magnesium deficiency so i have epsom salts in the house. Gonna mix up a batch with bottled water and spray all the plants tonight. They are also due a water so will use what is left over to water the plants. Going to add some black treacle to the mix for feeding (not for foliar spray). When i water them next in 7 days time i will add some nutes. Have all purpose tomato feed (4/3/8 ratio, i think) and will add at 1/4 strength. The day after will be transplant day. Am hoping by then that spotting will cease on new growth and just be contained to the lower leaves which can be removed once they start to die off.
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- #80
ALL plants were sprayed last night. 1 tsp of epsom salts in 750ml of water. After spraying the water was used for the plants. So far it looks like the spray has halted spotting and got a few plants showing secondary shoots. Think it was a magnesium deficiency. Forgot to add treacle to mix last night but it no biggy. Now looking forward to getting them outside and waiting days before i see them. Will note big growth between visits. I get the 2 final plots to lay compost on. Should be a quick job but may have midges to contend with.
