Auto Guerilla Grow Near Glasgow - Scotland
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- #42
Yup, you can repot that high. If you experience stretch and you intend on repotting then pot up that high. The stem will then start to sprout roots once it under the soil. How do you think cuttings/clones work? Obviously a bit more work is needed for them but they work on a similar principal.
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- #44
Well after being given advice to leave the plants for a week so the roots become more established what did my other half do today? She watered the big pots! This is after me telling her this morning or last night they should be left alone. Luckily she has left the small pots. Will leave them till wednesday - 5 days after transplant and water then. You say water plants till water runs out the bottom of the pots? Will leave the big plants till friday and then give them a good water. Her reason for watering them - the soil was too dry and crumbly and she thinks the small pots wont last a few more days without water.
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- #45
Day 10. Transplanted the last 4 bombs. They on the left of the photo (note the slightly darker soil). These seem to have thicker stems than the rest, think the heat done them good when on the radiator while in the propagator. Accidently cut a wee bit of root off on 2 of them during transplant. Think they will suffer a wee bit of shock but will be ok. The 2 in the big tubs have sprouted an inch overnight. This good sunny hot weather recently has done them the world of good. Sitting out on the balcony all day and night but in direct sunlight for 4 hours tomorrow. By fri they will be permanently in the sun and to harden off nicely. Now need to wait patiently for the rest of the magic to begin.
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- #46
Got a wee collapsible spade and went out to finish digging the sites. Funnily enough no midges so job was made easier. My pal was at work so on my own. Spade made things so much easier. Dug around 4"-6" down and removed all grass but with digging that far down the soil was still very moist even after this extended hot dry spell so it bodes well for not needing to take any water out, or at least no too much apart from when feeding. No time to lay soil but that will get done next week along with deer and slug protection so another update then.
- site no 2.
- site no 3. Had to move it due to the bees/wasps around the intended site. Am scared shitless of them.
New thread starting tonight or tomorrow. Decided to grow the lost coast hashplant. Mainly pics for that and very little posting (maybe). It a photoperiod so will see how it goes.
New thread starting tonight or tomorrow. Decided to grow the lost coast hashplant. Mainly pics for that and very little posting (maybe). It a photoperiod so will see how it goes.
GreeenFingers
New Member
Do you plan on amending the ground soil by turning in some compost?
GreenFingers
GreenFingers
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- #48
Read previous post, lol. No time to add soil so will do that next week. Using around 50-60L of soil/compost per site. Will mix it along with native soil which has a clay like effect. I grew in it last year so it will be ok.
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
If the soil is acidic, adding some dolomite lime will help a lot and it's very cheap.
If you use the exact same spot more than 2 years in a row you'll have to amend the soil more and more.
Some of the old local outdoor growers here recommend crop rotating with nettles-cannabis-nettles(or nothing) and repeat.
A great way to keep snails and crap off your young plants is to take a clear 2L soda bottle and drill/cut some air-holes in it, cut off the bottom and remove cap and stickers etc. and use it as a mini one plant green house, even if you don't check the spot regularly the plant will be able to grow out of the bottle on its own.
Plus it keeps the lowest night temp a degree or 2 hotter than outside the bottle.
When the plants get older you can take a 0,5L beer can and cut 1-1,5 cm wide strips horisontally about half the lenght of the can, and bend the strips down 90 degress and place the can around the main stem of the plant, this makes it almost impossible for snails to climb up the plant.
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- #50
Not sure on ph of the soil. I probably should check it but there were no problems last year and no checks were made re soil ph.
Slugs and deer were my problems last year but have methods to ensure they wont pose a problem this year. Will be using blue slug pellets as they worked last year and deer will be kept away with netting, human hair, human pee and plants will get sprayed with eggs mixed with water. This wont affect the plant but the deer will steer clear. Any remaining spray will get used around the permimeter of each site along with pee. Only need to keep them deer free for 2 months, approx 8 weeks. Visit every 10-14days to check on the plants and re-apply pee, hair and egg spray. If it rains then go out after to re-apply as neccessary.
Slugs and deer were my problems last year but have methods to ensure they wont pose a problem this year. Will be using blue slug pellets as they worked last year and deer will be kept away with netting, human hair, human pee and plants will get sprayed with eggs mixed with water. This wont affect the plant but the deer will steer clear. Any remaining spray will get used around the permimeter of each site along with pee. Only need to keep them deer free for 2 months, approx 8 weeks. Visit every 10-14days to check on the plants and re-apply pee, hair and egg spray. If it rains then go out after to re-apply as neccessary.
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- #52
All now on day 16. Thought they be bigger by now.
Wee brown spots on 3 plants, 1 is in the tips of leaves. Any idea of what problem may be? Just been in the sun and watered once with plain water. Next water later on for all.
ch33ch
Well-Known Member
Definetley intrested in this was thinking of my own guerilla job, Good luck.
camper2016
New Member
Cool....looks like a great place to pitch a tent...also reminds me of American Werewolf in London out on the moors
SolMJ
Well-Known Member
Looking good buddy. I sometimes get brown spots as well on some strains, but I never really do anything about it because the other's are fine. I think it's either a boron or manganese deficiency. I assume you're using proper nutes so maybe try adjusting the pH a little.
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- #56
No idea what the ph is. I know from the past that water in this area is 6.8 so is optimal for soil. No nutes used just yet, no need. The soil is brand new so has enough feed for 4-6 weeks. Once i plant outdoors they will be fed with 1/4 strength tomato feed initially, half strength on next visit 2 weeks later, then will feed one last time at full strength another 2 weeks later with added pk 13/14. The last 4 weeks will just be plain water, perhaps add nutes if they need it but i doubt they will. During the feedings i will add black treacle which is very similar to molasses to every feed. I did this last year with no negative effects. 1 tbsp per gallon.
I try to carry as little as possible on each visit so i cant go with 100L of water and give them a good watering/feeding. Am relying on some rain to help the plants and the soil underground holds a lot of moisture. With any luck i wont overdo the feeding hence the reason i will start off low strength. Can carry a few litres of water at a time and will be poured around the base of each plant.
I try to carry as little as possible on each visit so i cant go with 100L of water and give them a good watering/feeding. Am relying on some rain to help the plants and the soil underground holds a lot of moisture. With any luck i wont overdo the feeding hence the reason i will start off low strength. Can carry a few litres of water at a time and will be poured around the base of each plant.
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- #57
DISASTER STRUCK! While the plants were on the balcony the wind picked up and a rrf split right across the base of the stem just above the soil. It was left hanging by a thread. I have built up some fresh soil/perlite around the base and the snap and packed it quite tightly and gave it a good water and packed the soil down again and a bit more soil added to the base. Didnt think of taking a pic but have i done the right thing and what you think chances of survival are?
SolMJ
Well-Known Member
Unlucky mate. Maybe try to add some cover around the plants so the winds don't hit em as hard. Did you not need to the wrap the stem around in some tape to keep it tight & connected? If it's holding together nicely then it will make it & probably become stronger as a result.
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- #59
Well i am hoping that the soil will hold it in place and it will repair itself. I am going to get some better supports for all the plants. Because the stems are very weak and spindly just now and using stakes are a pain i will use plastic drinking straws. Cut them to size to cover stem up to cotelydons plus a wee bit extra. Slit the straw lengthways so i can wrap the straw around the stem and push down into the soil around an inch. This will hopefully stop the wind blowing them over till the stems get stronger.
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- #60
Well the plant seems to be ok. After 24 hours the leaves have perked up so water is going up the stem. It the 2nd one in from the right at the back. All plants now have splints around them made from straws. Hopefully they will help if the wind picks up again.
