COorganics TLO BG SCRoG - HPS+MH

That's ok, Curso. I pimp Doc's kit to people all the time even though I'm content messing with my own soil. Results from the kit speak for themselves. It's a trend that is gaining momentum quickly. Complete soils are going to erode the market for bottled nutrients at an ever increasing rate, just as LED lighting is eroding the market for high discharge lighting at an ever increasing rate. I'm just the kind of guy who prefers to make his own stock instead of buying a concentrate.

I didn't mean to sound like an ass bro I apologize. We've talked about that same subject in a couple of Doc's threads when he first started sending samples out. I think its in his strawberry cough journal. All that info is out there. Pro-mix has no "nute charge" just some added friendlies. It just passed for K too.

What the lab will do for your garden is tell you what is needed to achieve high brix and give you a recommendation that contains a whole plan for the soil. There's a difference between sending them some Peat out of a bag and some true soil that you already have.
 
Ahhhh. Both poop and potassium are problematic - poop because it is typically high in nitrogen. The nitrogen and potassium need to be in balance and not excessive for good high-brix results. Coco coir tends to have high levels of potassium in it, and SSM #4 has a high ratio of coir in it. Not certain of that answer by any means, but it is making sense to me.
 
Ahhhh. Both poop and potassium are problematic - poop because it is typically high in nitrogen. The nitrogen and potassium need to be in balance and not excessive for good high-brix results. Coco coir tends to have high levels of potassium in it, and SSM #4 has a high ratio of coir in it. Not certain of that answer by any means, but it is making sense to me.

The other thing with Coco is...It leaches Ca. Ca is the building block of all good things ;)
 
I didn't mean to sound like an ass bro I apologize.

You were not ass-like at all Curso. In fact, you gave me the information I needed to find out the answer to my question quickly and efficently. For that, I thank you!
 
Make sure your lab can do the weak acid test, not just the strong acid.

Doc's progression towards Pro-Mix HP and the kit was done mostly in his Strawberry Cough thread, and answers a lot of the recent questions. He posted the lab's recommendations for proper amendments to Pro-Mix HP on page 13. Elsewhere, Doc posted the the lab's target mineral amounts and ratios for an ideal high brix soil:

Doc Bud's High Brix - Strawberry Cough - Pineapple Express
 
Thanks for that info CO, got it.. have the one book, will research the other..gonna investigate this high brix for my outdoor veg garden..don't know how well that will like "0"% humidity.. even with a greenhouse, i think it will be pretty dry here in the desert.
 
Make sure your lab can do the weak acid test, not just the strong acid.

Doc's progression towards Pro-Mix HP and the kit was done mostly in his Strawberry Cough thread, and answers a lot of the recent questions. He posted the lab's recommendations for proper amendments to Pro-Mix HP on page 13. Elsewhere, Doc posted the the lab's target mineral amounts and ratios for an ideal high brix soil:

Doc Bud's High Brix - Strawberry Cough - Pineapple Express

Bingo! Thanks for that, Gray. The volume of Doc's posts makes it difficult to find specific info. The search features don't help so much.. Thanks!
 
yep some people journals you have a lot to go through to find what you want
its nice to have people who know where it is
Happy Tokerday CO :thumb:
 
True dat!!! but that isn't the worst part.. it's sort of like you, not a typical outdoor grow season at 4600ft.. cool nights, lots of freezing sometimes all the way towards the end of June, and sometimes snow in 2nd half of october. have about 10 weeks to really grow an actual garden where you don't worry about the weather.. greenhouse makes a whole lot of sense...and i luv dem vegetables!!!!
 
I contacted CSU again and they were really nice. But it sounded like a sweet old lady so I didn't feel like asking her if they ever did MJ specific testing. (She probably smokes more than I do though, who knows). Also didn't ask about weak acid test.

A professional gardener I have known for a long time talked with me for a good while on the subject. He said that he has had numerous soil tests thru college extensions and they all were kinda generic on the recommendations. I bet that's the difference between intl Ag labs and a college extension... And strong acid test vs Weak acid test.

I don't know or care really lol, when I get around to sending soil in it will be going to MN. And the intended purpose hops primarily (chuckle). And also my veggies. Wonder if that's two separate tests.
 
By: Dr. A.F. (Sande) Beddoe

Understanding the value of mineral sugars in foods

— based on the principles of Dr. Carey Reams applied to the farm and garden


The most important ingredient for the best physical wellbeing is wholesome clean food that contains the highest possible level of nutrients. But how can we know if we are consuming this type of food? First, the food must come from plants grown under conditions that will allow the least contact with toxic substances from air, water or soil. In other words, have the best natural or “organic” principles of clean growing been followed? Second, the food must come from plants that have been grown in such a way as to insure that the greatest amount of natural mineral sugars have accumulated in the plant’s cells. With so much interest in the organic concepts of food production today, those interested in healthy foods incorrectly tend to think that “organically” grown food is the most nutritious food available. Don’t get me wrong, I’m definitely a believer in food grown in toxic free environments. However, established “organic” concepts of food production have very definite limitations when it comes to producing nutrient dense and rich foods. It is one thing to grow a clean food, but it is definitely another matter to grow food that is clean and also has the greatest amount of mineral nutrient possible. So, in order for the reader to gain insight into what makes the highest nutritive food from plants, it will be very important to understand a very basic law of plant chemistry. That law is: The higher the organic mineral and natural oil content, the higher the natural sugar content. What I am saying is that if you want to be aware of the nutrition levels of a plant or its fruit grown for food— measure the natural sugar content of that plant and/or its fruit. When you know the natural sugar levels you can become aware of how high the natural mineral sugars are in that vegetable or fruit.

TOXIC ORGANICS

Nature makes nutrition by making sugar naturally. A plant food deficient of sugar, no matter how organically clean it has been grown, potentially becomes a toxic food. This is because “organically grown,” as well as standard “commercially grown” food that are low in natural sugars contribute to indigestion. The naturally formed sugars all produce food that is high in heat energy—usually measured as calories—and there is more to that energy than most imagine. Sugar energy is vitally involved in the natural digestive processes, because it is the most important substance for supplying the heat energy that many digestive enzymes need to function properly. Yes, sugar supplies heat through a natural fermentation process that manufactures small amounts of alcohol required to ideally regulate our body’s core temperature. Without the proper heat from mineral rich natural sugars, natural body alcohols will be deficient impairing the heat activated digestive enzymes, produced by the liver, resulting in indigestion. Dr. Reams found that in order for a food to begin to be properly digested, it must contain a minimum of 12 per cent natural sugar. Another aspect is that sugar cannot function properly in the digestion unless it contains its own full compliment of calcium /mineral factors that developed with it in the plant. As sugar is made in the plant’s natural chemical reactions—part of the photosynthesis process — calcium /mineral nutrients, including natural oils, are made at the same time. This is why, when plants end up with a poor or deficient sugar content, they are deficient in the corresponding minerals (especially calcium), oils and enzymes. This is also why a person eating mineral deficient food will, at some point, begin to desire extra sugar with their meal to satisfy the digestion’s mineral energy needs. Have you ever wondered why you crave sugar after some meals? Of course that added sugar, customarily being of the wrong type, will only add to the problem of mineral deficiency because the body then has to depend on releasing its stored mineral to allow that refined sugar to be processed properly. Thus, were one to eat mineral sugar deficient foods they would be eating foods that are potentially electrochemically toxic no matter how chemically free they are grown. When foods do not digest into usable substances for the body, the body will treat them as any potentially “toxic” substance and try to get rid of them. Here is the reason for most food “allergies.” They are really toxic conditions resulting from indigestion caused by mineral-sugar deficient food. So the ultimate answer to food allergies isn’t to quit eating the food, but rather to improve the digestion by improving the food put into it. A vital part of this solution comes though consuming high nutrient, or more nourishing rich foods, measured by the natural mineral sugar content. Remember, organically grown food becomes a toxic food if it is only grown chemically-free, without paying attention to growing superior mineral-sugar content into it at the same time.

MEASURE THE SUGAR YOURSELF

Since the measure of the nutritional quality of fresh produce is the sugar content, obviously then the better the nutrition in the produce the sweeter it will taste. The human sense of taste was designed to lead one to good food. However, humans do not have the sensitive taste for mineral sugar that a cow and many animals like them have. A cow can distinguish as small as one-half of one percent difference in sugar content between two of its available foods. This is why the animals are so often seen stretching over fences looking for greener—sweeter—pastures. Just as the cow uses sugar content to tell how good the food is, you can learn to distinguish the natural sugar content of different types of fresh produce. But, you must get personally involved if you want to learn how to distinguish high quality nourishing foods. Besides relying on your taste, the most accurate way to measure the amount of natural mineral sugars is to acquire a device called a hand held refractometer. It is a pocket sized instrument which can be purchased for between $75 and $200—unless you can borrow one from a friend. If you are interested in purchasing quality produce and want to know if you are getting your monies worth, this little instrument will give you a distinct advantage. Remember, you will be getting more for your money if you purchase a box of apples for $20, if the sugar content of the apples is 18 percent (18 Brix on a refractometer), rather than 10 percent. Sugar in the fruit juice is a dissolved solid. Therefore, it adds weight to the produce the more there is of it in the fruit juice. So a box of apples containing 18 percent sugar fruit, rather than 10 percent sugar fruit, will also weigh more. The refractometer does not lie and it will pay for itself with the information it supplies. The accompanying chart shows the Brix levels for determining if the produce is poor, average, good and of excellent quality.

THE BEST VITAMIN AND MINERAL SUPPLEMENT

The best way for an individual to get his vitamins and minerals is from food. No, I’m not against the use of vitamins and mineral supplements, in fact, without properly grown food it may be the only source, but by far the best way to get them is from the food grown in the best of controlled conditions producing clean optimum sugar content foods. This is accomplished the quickest by getting involved with growing a home garden. You don’t have to wait for someone to do it. Instead you can begin by accomplishing this for yourself. It is my belief that the home gardener and farmer, growing high quality food, can have more effect on the health of the community or nation than all the medical institutions put together — a vital premise of Dr. Carey Reams, whom I studied with between 1975 and his death in 1985.

AMBASSADOR OF SWEET INFORMATION

Not only will you begin to make a difference in the health of your family, but you will also make a difference in the health of your community. What produce manager, who truly sees his job as a service to the community, would not be interested in knowing how to measure and demand sweeter and better produce. Just see what happens when you use a refractometer in a super market, farmers market or produce stand! It does get peoples attention. And more than that, it gives you the ability to share the knowledge about what top quality produce really means. So go ahead and really feed your “sweet tooth” properly. Natural mineral sugars from the plant—not manufactured sugars—are absolutely vital to life—know where and how to get them.


Submitted by Dr. Alexander F. Beddoe, D.D.S. Dr. Beddoe, a recognized authority on Dr. Carey Reams’ Biologic Ionization Principles, has spent over a quarter century using Reams’ Biologic Ionization Principles in clinical human nutrition and agricultural nutrition. Additionally, he has authored several books on how Reams’ principles apply to not only human electro-chemistry, but also soil chemistry in farming and gardening for growing the highest quality and best food possible for human and animal health. Dr. Beddoe founded Advanced Ideals Institute to disseminate the vital-to-life principles of Reams’ Biological Ioniazation through seminars and the written word.

BRIX CHART FOR DETERMINING QUALITY PRODUCE

Plant: Poor Avg Good Excellent

Alfalfa 4 8 16 22
Apples 6 10 14 18
Asparagus 2 4 6 8
Avocados 4 6 8 10
Bananas 8 10 12 14
Beets 6 8 10 12
Bell Peppers 4 6 8 12
Blueberries 6 8 12 14
Broccoli 6 8 10 12
Cabbage 6 8 10 12
Carrots 4 6 12 18
Cantaloupe 8 12 14 16
Casaba 8 10 12 14
Cauliflower 4 6 8 10
Celery 4 6 10 12
Cherries 6 8 14 16
Coconut 8 10 12 14
Corn Stalks 4 8 14 20
Corn, young 6 10 18 24
Cow Peas 4 6 10 12
Kumquat 4 6 8 10
Endive 4 6 8 10
English Peas 8 10 12 14
Escarole 4 6 8 10
Field Peas 8 10 12 14
Grains 6 10 14 18
Grapes 8 12 16 20
Grapefruit 6 10 14 18
Green Beans 4 6 8 10
Honeydew 8 10 12 14
Hot Peppers 4 6 8 10
Kohlrabi 6 8 10 12
Lemons 4 6 8 12
Lettuce 4 6 8 10
Limes 4 6 8 12
Mangos 4 6 10 14
Onions 4 6 8 10
Oranges 6 10 16 20
Papayas 6 10 18 22
Parsley 4 6 8 10
Peaches 6 10 14 18
Peanuts 4 6 8 10
Pears 6 10 12 14
Pineapple 12 14 20 22
Raisins 60 70 75 80
Raspberries 6 8 12 14
Rutabagas 4 6 10 12
Sorghum 6 10 22 30
Squash 6 8 12 14
Strawberries 6 10 14 16
Sweet Corn 6 10 18 24
Sweet Potato 6 8 10 14
Tomatoes 4 6 8 12
Turnips 4 6 8 10
Watermelon 8 12 14 16

https://home.roadrunner.com/~krisjohnson/Kris/MineralSugars.pdf

Guess I can't get after it till I get a soil test. Ordering...1 soil test...soon :)
 
Update time, not cause anything is that amazing, but this is a grow journal so lets at least check on the progress of the room and the plants.

I am gonna be smoking some joints and screwing around up here for a while so ill post pics as I go tonite.

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Bubba kush reg (2), critical kush fem (1)
I had some crappy germination rates so far. 3/9. Gonna pop something else soon.
 
The attic is always messy lookin, it's actually fairly clean for an attic (I've cleaned it). Just a continuous work in progress.
Ill give u a view from a couple angles of my cave here.
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The SLH plant is getting some nice branch structure to be a big nasty plant. It has taken a while, I am wondering if the topping is really a good idea. Maybe I could achieve similar way quicker with a combo of LST and supercropping pre screen like Icemud is doing.
Anyhouzzle, here's some pics of the SLH
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The screen there is what I was thinking of using, 30"X30".
This plant is still destined to move to a 10 gal pot. Screw it, lets grow one big one under its own lamp.
 
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