Maer's 540W Advanced LED — G13/Haze - DIY 4" PVC Revised StevehmaNFT Grow

Sounds like your hands are full. I have had success with hygrozyme and H2O2 in small doses when I had a small problem--cleared it right up. I also try to stay away from any thing that may be "organic" in the system and aerate heavily. Some say aeration isn't necessary, but I'm going with what has worked for me so far over the past few grows.

I hope it all gets under control quickly, I want to see a gpw+ out of the system.

Probably not this run for a gpw. How much H2O2 did you use? How long did you use the hygrozyme for?

I also lowered my res temp to 62, I see a lot of talk of that slowing the growth of it. I think DM Zone will kill it though, the way people talk about it - it is like scorched earth - napalm in the morning type shit, which is what I am in the mood for at the moment.
 
Re: Maer's 540W Advanced LED – G13/Haze - DIY 4" PVC Revised StevehmaNFT Grow

I use the 30% H2O2 about 5ml per gallon, give it a dose and then if things aren't clear in two days, another dose. H2O2 degrades into water and oxygen pretty quickly. The hygrozyme is all natural enzymes and does a good job, just followed the directions on the bottle, but only dosed it once. The DM zone is copper based and should kill off any bad (and good) bacteria in the system. I have some from BPN that he sent me to test out, but haven't used it yet. Next grow I'll give it a shot, more as a preventative, in very low doses.

62 is about at the low end for the temp, I keep mine at 67 pretty consistently.
 
I use the 30% H2O2 about 5ml per gallon, give it a dose and then if things aren't clear in two days, another dose. H2O2 degrades into water and oxygen pretty quickly. The hygrozyme is all natural enzymes and does a good job, just followed the directions on the bottle, but only dosed it once. The DM zone is copper based and should kill off any bad (and good) bacteria in the system. I have some from BPN that he sent me to test out, but haven't used it yet. Next grow I'll give it a shot, more as a preventative, in very low doses.

62 is about at the low end for the temp, I keep mine at 67 pretty consistently.

DM Zone is now chloramine, at some point they had a problem sourcing chloramine and used among other things copper sulfate, but no longer. 5ml per gal would be 15ml per gal or for me 225ml or so. I dosed with about that much it made a lot of foam and stuff in the res but the fungus still lives. I am counting on the zone, but will probably order some hygrozyme. I can also try some BPN root magic - then again zymes and benes are 2 diff things.

It is supposed to kill everything, bacteria, virus, fungi, mold, and algea basically everything but the plants.
 
Re: Maer's 540W Advanced LED – G13/Haze - DIY 4" PVC Revised StevehmaNFT Grow

You might try a little pool shock mixed 1 gram per gallon, and then dosed at 1oz per 5 gallons. Been using this in my cloner, it is claimed to be the same stuff in clear rez.
 
You might try a little pool shock mixed 1 gram per gallon, and then dosed at 1oz per 5 gallons. Been using this in my cloner, it is claimed to be the same stuff in clear rez.

Do you think this will kill and then prevent reinfection? I have read 3ml / gal of Zone will kill it and 1ml / gal will keep it from coming back. Then I will used some hygrozyme to eat the dead stuff? I would love to used pool shock cause I can get that locally, have you heard of anyone fighting an infection with it, or only as a preventative?
 
Re: Maer's 540W Advanced LED – G13/Haze - DIY 4" PVC Revised StevehmaNFT Grow

Maer, I went by what the folks at AN told me. 150ml 3% h202 in a fresh no nutrient bath for 6 hrs. Then drain, clean replenish with regular nutes but no root additives or boosters like Voodoo juice for 2 days. Do add in hygrozyme right after the h202 bath however.

if using 12-15% h202 = 30ml per gal
if using 29-35% h202 = 15ml per gal

There will be foam because of the h202, possibly for a cpl days, that's fine.

My roots look purty now.
 
Do you think this will kill and then prevent reinfection? I have read 3ml / gal of Zone will kill it and 1ml / gal will keep it from coming back. Then I will used some hygrozyme to eat the dead stuff? I would love to used pool shock cause I can get that locally, have you heard of anyone fighting an infection with it, or only as a preventative?



I have absolutely no idea! I'm a COCO guy. Honestly, I was hoping you would look at it and tell us if was really the same as the stuff in clear rez.

I read an erik biksa article that perscribed bassmans cure to the T and showed some pretty good results.
 
I have absolutely no idea! I'm a COCO guy. Honestly, I was hoping you would look at it and tell us if was really the same as the stuff in clear rez.

I read an erik biksa article that perscribed bassmans cure to the T and showed some pretty good results.

That seems like an extreme amount of H2O2 about 625ML in my res, I tried that a couple nights back and saw it get a lot worse. Of course that was not the only thing that was changed, I lowered the res temp at the same time - but that was after I had replaced the elbow.

As far as clear res, yes that is the same ingredient.. well they don't list what it really is they list the byproduct of what they add to make it. Pool shock is calcium hypochlorite which when mixed with water will form a solution of hypochlorous acid.

Hypochlorous acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
Re: Maer's 540W Advanced LED – G13/Haze - DIY 4" PVC Revised StevehmaNFT Grow

Tomorrows plan of attack:

1. Drain res, clean with tap to remove heavy junk, refill with 10gal RO and add 450ml 10% H2O2, run for 6 hours.

2. Drain and refill res with fresh RO, re nute and add home made Clean Res 1 oz per 5 gal ( 3 ounces)
 
Tomorrows plan of attack:

1. Drain res, clean with tap to remove heavy junk, refill with 10gal RO and add 450ml 10% H2O2, run for 6 hours.

2. Drain and refill res with fresh RO, re nute and add home made Clean Res 1 oz per 5 gal ( 3 ounces)

I like.

when you add nutes you can go ahead and add hygrozyme to eat up the bad shit. Dont worry about sudsy bubbles for 24-36 hrs after at least.

Dont add a root hormone of any type (like Voodoo juice) for two days after you refill with nutrients.

*This is exactly what the folks at advanced nutrients told me last week or whenever it was and it worked perfectly for me.
 
I like.

when you add nutes you can go ahead and add hygrozyme to eat up the bad shit. Dont worry about sudsy bubbles for 24-36 hrs after at least.

Dont add a root hormone of any type (like Voodoo juice) for two days after you refill with nutrients.

*This is exactly what the folks at advanced nutrients told me last week or whenever it was and it worked perfectly for me.

Unfortunately I dont have hygrozyme and cant get any locally.

@budlydoright

The calculation of 1 gram per gallon is good if you are adding 100% by weight chlorine - Calcium Hypochlorite does not form 100% HClO (the active ingredient) but about 60% (or 40 or 30), so the 1gram must be devided by the purity. The purity is listed on the package, it will say "Forms 60% chlorine in solution" so take 1 gram / 0.6 (purity) = 1.7g per gallon to equal %0.028 HClO
 
Unfortunately I dont have hygrozyme and cant get any locally.

Stealth move at night to a population of more than 12
 
Unfortunately I dont have hygrozyme and cant get any locally.

@Budlydoright

The calculation of 1 gram per gallon is good if you are adding 100% by weight chlorine - Calcium Hypochlorite does not form 100% HClO (the active ingredient) but about 60% (or 40 or 30), so the 1gram must be devided by the purity. The purity is listed on the package, it will say "Forms 60% chlorine in solution" so take 1 gram / 0.6 (purity) = 1.7g per gallon to equal %0.028 HClO

Maer, got any pet stores nearby, big chain type? Aquarium/pond section, look for PondZyme. Cheap and concentrated....you will need like 1/32 tsp or something crazy. Used to eat up decaying stuff in ponds.....same thing. Search the forum (maybe one of DocBuds journals)
 
@Budlydoright

The calculation of 1 gram per gallon is good if you are adding 100% by weight chlorine - Calcium Hypochlorite does not form 100% HClO (the active ingredient) but about 60% (or 40 or 30), so the 1gram must be devided by the purity. The purity is listed on the package, it will say "Forms 60% chlorine in solution" so take 1 gram / 0.6 (purity) = 1.7g per gallon to equal %0.028 HClO

Thanks, awsome to get these things verified. we should do a mythbusters thread. Already have 2 under our belts. So do I try to acheive .028%?

On to your grow.... do you have any clones going? I have a pretty low tolerence for scrapping and starting over. the 2 weeks it takes to recover from something can be 2 weeks into something new with no problems and the gained knowledge from the failure. Ask yourself, how long will it take?

when I have a potential problem, I often just move on and put my efforts into a new batch. I have yet to regret doing it this way and have had to do it 3 times in 3 years.
 
Re: Maer's 540W Advanced LED – G13/Haze - DIY 4" PVC Revised StevehmaNFT Grow

I am planning to start a new batch ASAP. I am 3 weeks into the grow + 2 weeks of cloner and 2 weeks of "veg" so 7 weeks invested and 4 to go.

I agree, I am doing what I can to save then because t will be 4 weeks until I can put something in to replace them at minimum.
 
Re: Maer's 540W Advanced LED – G13/Haze - DIY 4" PVC Revised StevehmaNFT Grow

I almost always have a plan B in the form of clones that didn't make the cut. I'll put them into 16oz cups and give them lucas formula under a 400 or 600 with the mothers. i don't have a full run but usually 1/3. If you keep mothers it's easy to keep a tray of viable clones for 4-6 weeks. Cheap insurance!

I have never had real success saving a crop after a big problem without adding more time or killing my yield. And I've had my fair share of issues which is why i keep cuttings around I guess. The fuse is real short in my setup too, when i f' up, it's usually a catastrophe. So obviously this is just what suits my style of gardening.
 
DM Zone is now chloramine, at some point they had a problem sourcing chloramine and used among other things copper sulfate, but no longer. 5ml per gal would be 15ml per gal or for me 225ml or so. I dosed with about that much it made a lot of foam and stuff in the res but the fungus still lives. I am counting on the zone, but will probably order some hygrozyme. I can also try some BPN root magic - then again zymes and benes are 2 diff things.

It is supposed to kill everything, bacteria, virus, fungi, mold, and algea basically everything but the plants.

So I got the bottle of Zone and on the back it does indeed say it has 0.1% copper sulfate.

The research I have done says it also has chloramine. I think the explanation is the same with all ferts, in the US only certain things are considered fertilizers and anything besides those things that is in a product goes unlisted. So since copper is a trace element plants need (doh, not too much) and sulfate becomes available sulfur to the plants, copper sulfate is listed on the label. Chloramine is ammonia with a chlorine atom, neither of which are plant food items so chloramine goes unlisted.

One thing they do say on their site in response to "is this stuff safe" is that the chemical used in Zone is used by water authorities around the world. To my knowledge copper sulfate is not added to water anywhere...

I spoke to a couple colleges and we came to the conclusion that copper sulfate does a couple things. First it stabilizes the solution of chloramine. Second it prevents the germination of fungi and algae spores.

I re read this and realized it sounded like I am busting Steve's nuts, I am not, I am just trying to put correct info out there and chemicals are my thing.
 
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