AK-48 Planted 10-19-15 From Seed

1st grow explains a lot to me about your anxiousness and anxiety.

So the really yellow ones on the bottom of #1 are probably ready or almost ready to come of gently by hand. When they start to droop they are definitely ready to come off. When they come of gently by hand do so.

So until we go into Boom anything is recoverable and your plants are not that bad off. However there is a lot to learn and it is futile to try and learn everything at once. So we might go into bloom early just to get you through your first grow...but not yet.

So as for training...the best way to train a plant is to push it over from one side...not tie it in a loop. It you look at my pot there you see that I have cut the string long enough to go all the way up and back then I duct tape it to the outside of the pot. In this way I am pulling on it from one side and the other is exposed so it doesn't strangle the branch.

The second thing I like to do is have vertical lines not angled ones. Those have some angle but for the most part the branches are long enough to be pulled over and the line is vertical to the edge of the pot. When the branches get that long you can do that.

The one you topped we would only look at the bottom branches which are probably not long enough yet.

the #2 also looks a bit tall for the girth and I probably would have topped it but you can train it too and it will be fine. That one you can take and make a good line going straight down to the pot. Make sure the line is sitting between nodes not damaging a node or branch and just go slow and you will be fine.don't use the line to bend the branch. use your hand over a borad area and wehn in posiion loop the line and hold it in position while you tape it.

If it is brittle and breaks it will be fine anyways and it will heal but that would happen only if you waited too long to do it and it was dry which it is not.

training wont hurt anything so if you want to go gang busters go for it just go easy and slow and be gentile and make the lines vertical if possible. Basically you want the line to not loose position as the branch keeps growing and vertical lines are the best for that.

We will do some training and then let them come back a bit and then start bloom if everything stays healthy.


About 2 weeks later that one above looked like this (but it is an auto fem)

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And a few days ago it is the one on the left

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Yea I hope that nervousness goes away soon, guess that comes with just getting more acclimated to being a grower.

Alright I'm gonna get going on the training tonight I think, you explained it very well, so I don't think I have any q's right now about it. Also will take of those yellow leaves.


Here's a little bump in everything. Just before I was leaving work today my boss informed me I have to go out of town all week next week. I'm hoping I can get a watering in by Sunday. When I flushed it took 2 weeks before I watered again (and that was 3 days ago w/ the tea). On my last watering, I DID not water until runoff. My guess is each plant probably got about 1/2-3/4 gallon of tea and a light silica dose. So they are drying fast. I guess my question is how long can they go after the pots have dried up?
 
Never untie. you just pull them back. Sometimes they grow in a way that you might want to reposition the rope but the get held down until the day you harvest.


They should make it a week with a good watering just fine. they may look thirsty when you get back but they will be fine...probably better than fine. Plants want to be left alone and we tend to mess with them too much.

The best part will be the shock you will have. we tend to see daily progression and not see much happening but after a week when you return you will be like "wow those are mine?"
 
Man these past few days I've gotten really close to saying that, so I'm sure you are 100% correct on that. The branches that I had horizontal by bed time last night have oriented themselves "up" already. I didn't expect to see that in like 7 hrs. Thanks for all the help.

I gotta do more today tho I didn't have the right tape, wouldn't stick that well to my fabric pots. And I was just bending down on the lowest branches on #1 and they are long enough to have a vertical string around them, can I do so or should I let her recover a bit more?
 
Naw do it. That is actually a good thing. You pre-stressed it so next time you could bend it some more and not break it.


Cannabis is an extremely hearty plant that will recover very fast from training.

What is really ideal it to develop a canopy where all the mains stems are the same height. Then you can position the distance to the light such that all are getting the ideal light. I have trained the main stalk in a horizontal circle before trying to get the bottom ones caught up.
 
Merry Christmas to ya V! I got them all trained up and will be back home tomorrow night. I'll probably need to water Sunday, I hope. I'll be using a decent dose of cal mag @ 2 tsp/gal. I'm using general organics brand for that and as far as I know it's only calcium and magnesium carbonate. In addition to that you had suggested a light mute feed on top of that. I'm unsure about the N-P-K amounts I should use, as I will probably be switching to bloom soon. What would you suggest?
 
Still use veg nutes not bloom nutes but I would get some Mad farmers MOAB. Typically bloom nutes don't have enough nitrogen. MOAB is only Phosphorus and potassium which in bloom is what needs to be raised. Nitrogen really shouldn't be lowered until mid bloom just the other 2 raised. So I like to just raise the bloom nutes in early bloom and switch to bloom base after transition.

Now if you recently added the tea and if so you wont need nuts yet. Best to go with the Cal Mag, some Silica and some molasses product. Those will not bur and will help the tea activate and will strengthen the plant.

If you add nutes do it at 1/4 strength for now but sugars will get that tea working.
 
I'll go with the sugar to try and stir up that microbial life. I may go to the shop today and get the moab and some proper sugar formula as I am using Grandma's Molasses, unless that works just fine, what do you think? I've noticed I may still have some nute burn going on so I want to tread carefully.

Did you have another up-pot planned, or are they gonna get finished off in 3-gal pots?
 
General rule of thumb is a gallon per month. So I never grow in less than 5 gal. They can be grown just fine in 3 but it is more difficult. In your case with a rebound and such it is best to up the pot size if you can. How long have they been growing now? If we up the pot size we can use some stuff that will make it not need nutes for a while as well.
 
I'm good with that. I watered last night 1 gal each. I used silica, cal-mag, and horticultural molasses, and some orca. I picked up some LED glasses and I must say they work as advertised! I took these picks with the glasses in front of lenses of camera. Im thinking about topping that one stretchy branch in the first pic, what do you think?
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I would just train them. Bring them down in between the other branches so they all get light. I would be more concerned about the main stem on the two that we didn't top. They look great but the key is we want everything to be very close in height. We want to have a canopy where all the flowers are getting nearly equal light. So I would bend those tall ones over like I showed you before to we can get everything to flower at about the same distance from the light. We don't want 2 feet between the top flower and the bottom flowers. That is why we whacked off the one we did. If we would have left it, once it rebound (as it clearly has now) the top would have shoot way up and would be out of control.
 
yup that is what I am suggesting. Bend them over and try to get a more even plant height. The light will have to be as far away as is safe for the tallest flower. So the more even the flower height is the more close we can get the light to the other flowers.

Have you looked up what a SCROG is? It stands for "Screen Of Green" look it up on Youtube and next grow we will make a SCROG and have a lot of flowers.

Not to be confused with SOG which is a Sea Of Green which you never want to do. Not for a few years at least. It is only for very knowledgeable growers able to handle complicated stuff with a complicated setup and only allows for marginally more weight per year. If running a bunch it can make a difference ... but you are still small time home grower.
 
Yea I looked at all the training methods and decided to let the plants go and figured I would have to do some tieing down at some point. I like SCROG the most, but it kinda locks your plants in your grow room it seems like. I tried keeping this grow simple and figured scrog and topping and all that would complicate things too much..
 
You da man btw. I was basically a nervouse wreck before I asked for help. It's starting to get fun now with the teas and the training and topping. I gotta leave for a few days starting tomorrow and I hope I come back to some happy girls! You've been a big help and the object of their success. I'm sure they will be happy to see me gone for a few days haha.
 
yes ...they do like to be left alone when everything is in good shape!

I got a rudimentary SCROG going. I have one plant in there doing pretty good and the canopy is 33" x 28"...might get a decent harvest out of that one plant.

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That's what I'd like to have going on in my tent. That's nice man, having utilizing ALL of your square footage in one pot. I'm beginning to notice the difficulties that arise from having the bottom of my tent covered with pots. It's difficult to arrange everything, especially now that I've tied them down. Anyways I got back last night and tied some more stuff down. They all had a bunch of dead lower leaves, I'm guessing they are starving for some nitrogen? I say this b/c they have been loosing them for a while and the last time I watered I didn't have any N in the mix, I used molasses, silica, and a smidgin of orca. That tells me there either isn't enough N in the soil, or N is getting locked out for some reason. By the looks of things I'd say my pH is good, and I shouldnt be locking out N for any reason, so I'm thinking there isn't enough N in the soil to supply them in between waterings. Is this a proper assumption? I'll probably be able to water Sunday, so I'm trying to figure out what needs to be mixed in the water. Ive been looking at Nitrogen sources and blood meal seems like a good candidate. Either that or a synthetic N source that is quick and strong. I'm running my plan by you to see if this is proper procedure.
 
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