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swwilson20
New Member
AK-48 Planted 10-19-15 From Seed
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- #82
swwilson20
New Member
Also, I mayyyy still have that banded stuff going on that we both believe to be a mg def. In the 2nd pic, the new stuff looks like it is trying to turn the same color as the old. I forgot to mention I used a heavy dose of Cal Mag on my last watering. The bottle suggests 2tsp/gallon for a heavy feed. I mixed 3 gallons all at once and dumped in 6tsps.
So definitely it is time to start feeding again. I would go on a 3 week cycle. 1 week nutes + Cal Mag, 2nd week tea, third week water+ silica. All weeks add some sugars. The exact tea recipe of mine has fertilizers in it and in large doses can cause burn. so I would do a half feed on the first week to keep it reasonable.
I don't know your nute line. I have heard of it but never used it. A really great one that is cheap and found ant Home depot is Elanor's VF-11. I use it in hydro throughout Veg with some Cal Mag and Silica and that is all they need. Well I also run a living res with my tea.
That stuff is a complete solution in a single bottle no A and B and is great.
Mostly though when I run soil I make a soil mix that needs no nutes. so I just add water with cal mag and silica and some sugars and tea once in a while. If you make a proper soil you don't need to add tea as it has all the microbes you just add sugars to keep them breeding.
I am helping another journal out where this guys had a real bad pythium problem in his DWC and tried everything and nothing worked then he stopped using sterile techniques and dropped in my tea and the infection is gone. So in a DWC it is greatly beneficial. in soil it is great if you didn't set it up right from the get go.
I have a bunch of people trying out the tea now. Some do not have all of the ingredients and I can't keep everything straight. If you are using ALL the stuff I do then there should be nitrogen in there. If so do a half nute solution on the nute week and we should be good.
I think you were the one who didn't add enough sugars or had too small of an air pump and didn't get a lot of breeding in the tea...so lets try to fix that next time and get some good 2 inches of foam.
I don't know your nute line. I have heard of it but never used it. A really great one that is cheap and found ant Home depot is Elanor's VF-11. I use it in hydro throughout Veg with some Cal Mag and Silica and that is all they need. Well I also run a living res with my tea.
That stuff is a complete solution in a single bottle no A and B and is great.
Mostly though when I run soil I make a soil mix that needs no nutes. so I just add water with cal mag and silica and some sugars and tea once in a while. If you make a proper soil you don't need to add tea as it has all the microbes you just add sugars to keep them breeding.
I am helping another journal out where this guys had a real bad pythium problem in his DWC and tried everything and nothing worked then he stopped using sterile techniques and dropped in my tea and the infection is gone. So in a DWC it is greatly beneficial. in soil it is great if you didn't set it up right from the get go.
I have a bunch of people trying out the tea now. Some do not have all of the ingredients and I can't keep everything straight. If you are using ALL the stuff I do then there should be nitrogen in there. If so do a half nute solution on the nute week and we should be good.
I think you were the one who didn't add enough sugars or had too small of an air pump and didn't get a lot of breeding in the tea...so lets try to fix that next time and get some good 2 inches of foam.
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- #84
swwilson20
New Member
I think it was a culmination of things, not enough sugar, small air pump, ammending ingredients. Also I read if the temps are too low they won't breed as much, and I believe when I was making the tea the temp of the tea was 71 or so, should I get it a bit warmer than that?
Also, would really like to use up this roots organics stuff I have. They put a lot of emphasis (or seem to) on kelp (ascophyllyum nodosum), yucaa extract, molasses. The NPK is 2-.25-1.5. Basically every ingredient listed has mucho benefits
Also, would really like to use up this roots organics stuff I have. They put a lot of emphasis (or seem to) on kelp (ascophyllyum nodosum), yucaa extract, molasses. The NPK is 2-.25-1.5. Basically every ingredient listed has mucho benefits
Yup!!!!! on all accounts. I think in my posted recipe I said something about min temps....also you nailed it ascophyllyum nodosum it the goal. It is only from a specific type of Atlantic kelp. Yucaa is great too. That is something I haven't found in base for for cheap yet.
Live and learn. for this early in your growing career you are doing well. Keep trudging forward with the learning! There is a lot to know...we can't explain everything in a few posts.
Live and learn. for this early in your growing career you are doing well. Keep trudging forward with the learning! There is a lot to know...we can't explain everything in a few posts.
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- #86
swwilson20
New Member
Ok cool so we got a plan going. Gotta go out of town again monday but I can get a watering in before and Ill be back wed. night. So, on the next watering I'll use the Roots Grow. They reccomend 2-3 teaspoons(10-15ml) for seedlings and small veg
1 2/3 - 2 TBS (25-30 ml) for mature veg
Figure I'll mix 2 tsps (10 ml) per gallon of water and maybe a light dose of CalMag since I used a heavy dose of Calmag on last watering?
1 2/3 - 2 TBS (25-30 ml) for mature veg
Figure I'll mix 2 tsps (10 ml) per gallon of water and maybe a light dose of CalMag since I used a heavy dose of Calmag on last watering?
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- #88
swwilson20
New Member
Ok that works.
hi V! i was just reading this journal - very nice swwilson20!
and i was wondering, V, in what size pot do you start out in and how often do you upcan and in what sizes?
Well that is a little bit of a complicated topic with me. I try to avoid transplanting. I am an engineer so I design my grows with what we call Russian engineering practices. That's an old engineering joke because in Russia they would just overbuild stuff supper big and say to hell with the math. No need to calculate it...I will just add a bunch of extra reinforcement and it will work. Specifically that is what the did for Dams and Nuclear reactors. They would build ones 10 times the size we would ever allow in America.
Anyway So I use a very aerated soil blend that is really almost a soilless blend. It does not have any of the issues that re-potting helps with. I used to repot when I started back in the mid 90's. I spent years experimenting with soils and different techniques and came up with a blend that is very simple and has all the benefits of soil and soilless mixes and gets me growth (when done correctly) as good as hydro.
I used to in fact place my seed directly in the pot I was to bloom in and never repot at all. Fresh seed does not need the paper towel trick. Fresh seed is like all fresh seeds. You can place it in soil and water lightly and it will come up in a few days.
So for indoor I never go below 5 gallons. The scrog I posted above above has a plant in a 15 gallon fabric pot. That plant will never run out of space for roots. It can grow roots as long as it wants and the above ground plant can get as big as I want. The above ground plant is a function of the root mass. In the absence of doing some fancy stuff the above ground plant can only get so big based on the root mass. So limiting the root mass directly limits the above ground mass. So I never want that to happen. I reuse and recompost my soil so none of it is a waste. So I use over sized pots because I happen to know that the root ball is the most important part of the plant. Many people never think about it because they don't see it...but the root ball is the most important part of the plant and everything above ground is a function of how healthy the roots are.
Lately I have been trying those peat plugs to start seeds but I think I am done with that and only using those for clones.
So I will use very weak and heavily aerated soil in a solo cup for sprouting seeds. When they have enough root mass to hold that together I will transplant to the final pot. I never want the tap root to curl up more then it has to as I want it to go as deep as it can.
To transplant I use a separate solo cup in the new pot and fill around it and when done I remove the solo cup and have a hole perfect for the one I am placing in there.
I am not in a hurry, I grow just for myself and I SCROG. After you get a few grows under your belt you wont be in need of weed so you can take your time. I am happy to let the plants grow in the final pot as soon as possible.
These are two autos I ran in a 7 and 5 gallon pot and never up potted just put it right in there and they took off.
Anyway So I use a very aerated soil blend that is really almost a soilless blend. It does not have any of the issues that re-potting helps with. I used to repot when I started back in the mid 90's. I spent years experimenting with soils and different techniques and came up with a blend that is very simple and has all the benefits of soil and soilless mixes and gets me growth (when done correctly) as good as hydro.
I used to in fact place my seed directly in the pot I was to bloom in and never repot at all. Fresh seed does not need the paper towel trick. Fresh seed is like all fresh seeds. You can place it in soil and water lightly and it will come up in a few days.
So for indoor I never go below 5 gallons. The scrog I posted above above has a plant in a 15 gallon fabric pot. That plant will never run out of space for roots. It can grow roots as long as it wants and the above ground plant can get as big as I want. The above ground plant is a function of the root mass. In the absence of doing some fancy stuff the above ground plant can only get so big based on the root mass. So limiting the root mass directly limits the above ground mass. So I never want that to happen. I reuse and recompost my soil so none of it is a waste. So I use over sized pots because I happen to know that the root ball is the most important part of the plant. Many people never think about it because they don't see it...but the root ball is the most important part of the plant and everything above ground is a function of how healthy the roots are.
Lately I have been trying those peat plugs to start seeds but I think I am done with that and only using those for clones.
So I will use very weak and heavily aerated soil in a solo cup for sprouting seeds. When they have enough root mass to hold that together I will transplant to the final pot. I never want the tap root to curl up more then it has to as I want it to go as deep as it can.
To transplant I use a separate solo cup in the new pot and fill around it and when done I remove the solo cup and have a hole perfect for the one I am placing in there.
I am not in a hurry, I grow just for myself and I SCROG. After you get a few grows under your belt you wont be in need of weed so you can take your time. I am happy to let the plants grow in the final pot as soon as possible.
These are two autos I ran in a 7 and 5 gallon pot and never up potted just put it right in there and they took off.
i used to grow like that...just putting a seed in a 5 gallon bucket and watering it and letting it do its thing...then i read somewhere that the plants do better if they can reach their limits in one size pot and then get new dirt...
i like your way better...simple and straightforward and uncomplicated and low maintenance. and i like the way it caters to the root ball.
you start your seed in a solo cup rather than in the 5 gallon pot, because the soil in the solo cup is going to be for a seedling and the soil in the pot is for veg?
and when you say "aerated soil" you mean you use lots of perlite?
and do you use subcool's recipe for your soil? i've been saving my soil from the last grow...but i don't really know what to do with it, yet. some is in a plastic trash can and the rest is in a 30 gallon tote...
swwilson20, i don't mean to hijack your journal...
i like your way better...simple and straightforward and uncomplicated and low maintenance. and i like the way it caters to the root ball.
you start your seed in a solo cup rather than in the 5 gallon pot, because the soil in the solo cup is going to be for a seedling and the soil in the pot is for veg?
and when you say "aerated soil" you mean you use lots of perlite?
and do you use subcool's recipe for your soil? i've been saving my soil from the last grow...but i don't really know what to do with it, yet. some is in a plastic trash can and the rest is in a 30 gallon tote...
swwilson20, i don't mean to hijack your journal...
Perlite mainly but also some coco.
swwilson20 needs to know this we were going to talk about it eventually.
Sub cools super soil is a compost that you put at the bottom of the pot. The top 2/3rds is a simpler basic soil blend. The compost is hot so you want the plant to be a bit more mature first. And 1/3 compost and 2/3rds soil blend is for a 10 gallon pot. If you go smaller it is more like 1/4 compost.
You can find a ton of videos on his compost and on him directly on youtube. I am posting the 3 min one all the time. There are many types of compost and soil blends...subcool's is just the most famous. there are many websites dedicated to his formula.
Here I posted a few good videos in this thread...
What is your Super Soil?
So what you do is take your used soil and use it as the first component. Add in some coco and do the rest as prescribed.
It is much like the tea. You are using the microbes in the worm castings and bat guano (I don't use that for ethical reasons but it is good stuff) to break down everything. It takes 2 months to get good and some cook it for longer.
And yes I know all about letting it use up dirt and then grow into new dirt. My way is more like nature (are you sensing a theme here?) My plants will grow indefinitely and never have an issue. They will always encounter new fresh soil and my soil is full of microbes breaking down stuff always keeping it fresh. That is the beauty of subcools compost. You can grow forever in there and it keeps breaking down the stuff. It can easily go 6 months and it is constantly making fresh nutes in there and you never need to add anything but water.
Some people ( I am going to try this next) actually put earthworms in the pots. I am going to get some and throw them in my compost pile. My next grow is all small pots but the next time I do a 15 gallon one I will be throwing in some worms. They will keep fresh earth worms castings in there daily.
swwilson20 needs to know this we were going to talk about it eventually.
Sub cools super soil is a compost that you put at the bottom of the pot. The top 2/3rds is a simpler basic soil blend. The compost is hot so you want the plant to be a bit more mature first. And 1/3 compost and 2/3rds soil blend is for a 10 gallon pot. If you go smaller it is more like 1/4 compost.
You can find a ton of videos on his compost and on him directly on youtube. I am posting the 3 min one all the time. There are many types of compost and soil blends...subcool's is just the most famous. there are many websites dedicated to his formula.
Here I posted a few good videos in this thread...
What is your Super Soil?
So what you do is take your used soil and use it as the first component. Add in some coco and do the rest as prescribed.
It is much like the tea. You are using the microbes in the worm castings and bat guano (I don't use that for ethical reasons but it is good stuff) to break down everything. It takes 2 months to get good and some cook it for longer.
And yes I know all about letting it use up dirt and then grow into new dirt. My way is more like nature (are you sensing a theme here?) My plants will grow indefinitely and never have an issue. They will always encounter new fresh soil and my soil is full of microbes breaking down stuff always keeping it fresh. That is the beauty of subcools compost. You can grow forever in there and it keeps breaking down the stuff. It can easily go 6 months and it is constantly making fresh nutes in there and you never need to add anything but water.
Some people ( I am going to try this next) actually put earthworms in the pots. I am going to get some and throw them in my compost pile. My next grow is all small pots but the next time I do a 15 gallon one I will be throwing in some worms. They will keep fresh earth worms castings in there daily.
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- #93
swwilson20
New Member
Nice to meet ya navigator! I read your journal as well. Hopefully we can both carry our plants to the end. No hijacking going on here at all just some more tools to use. I will have a problem with a super soil for the next couple of years unfortunately, I live in an apartment.. I'm sure I can end up mixing together something nice tho. I actually watched those videos V when you first posted them. I saw a post about someone keeping worms in their pots and they seemed to love it.
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- #94
swwilson20
New Member
Alright, I've been away from my plants technically since wed night but I didn't pay much attention to them. I didn't water them on Sunday night before I left b/c I didn't think they were ready for it. I knew I was coming home wed night but also leaving early the next morning and would be home two nights later (now). I watered them wed night b/c the best one absolutly needed it. The other two weren't even close to resembling the underwatered appearance as #1, but it had been 10 days since last water (i added a cup of RO to each one 5 days in). I looked at them close, (i'll post a pic) they all have a slight appearance of burnt tip on every single leaf, or at least most, and I have always noticed this but it was such a slight thing that I never really said anything about it. They've always had this, so I think I'm slowly killing them with nutes b/c it's possible I added 2 tablespoons, although I did check the ppm and it was in the 400's I think. But I haven't calibrated. I'm sorry I rambled this altogther, I just came home tonight and it dawned on me, and I'm curious if you notice the same correlation that I am seeing. My soil is hot, and I'm not suppossed to be giving as much as I have, and I think that's a big reason why I have messed my plant up? What do you think?
Okay, here's the thing, I don't remember if I put 1 or 2 tablespoons of Buddha Grow, I originally had the plan to use 3 gallons of water, but I only used 2. I was in such a rush to get home and sleep, been driving 4 hours from working over 8. I needed sleep, b/c I knew I had to drive back early the next morning for another 4 hours, to work another 8, fuck work. Anyways that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. That and I haven't mentioned that I recently got a ppm meter bc I've been wanting to know since I started growing. I didn't calibrate it bc I dont have blue lab solution. the ppm was 180 on the 500 mode. My RO rang in at 0. So that's another monkey off my back, so now I think I'be blurted outed all of my variables, exept for my temp, it's in the low 70's when it's cold outside lights on, my heater sucks, it's old and there's nothing I can do about it, and the Mrs says absolutly not on any type of plug in heater whatsoever, and I don't blame her. Stems are all purple and have been for an extremely long time, basically since I started fucking them up when they were 2 weeks old. I know I've had nute burn before by adding too much, but I stopped for a long time, and wed night was the first heavy feed like that. But like I said, I don't know now that I've thought about it, if it was 1 or 2 tablespoons with my two gallons. If it was 2, I'm thinking I really fucked up bad. I think what I see going on finally is started at the tips of every leaf starts with a burnt tip. And then very gradually it's turning yellow all the way up the leaf. Again, just a theory. But my temps aren't the best, and I have the fabric pots sitting on the mylar of the tent.
Okay, here's the thing, I don't remember if I put 1 or 2 tablespoons of Buddha Grow, I originally had the plan to use 3 gallons of water, but I only used 2. I was in such a rush to get home and sleep, been driving 4 hours from working over 8. I needed sleep, b/c I knew I had to drive back early the next morning for another 4 hours, to work another 8, fuck work. Anyways that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. That and I haven't mentioned that I recently got a ppm meter bc I've been wanting to know since I started growing. I didn't calibrate it bc I dont have blue lab solution. the ppm was 180 on the 500 mode. My RO rang in at 0. So that's another monkey off my back, so now I think I'be blurted outed all of my variables, exept for my temp, it's in the low 70's when it's cold outside lights on, my heater sucks, it's old and there's nothing I can do about it, and the Mrs says absolutly not on any type of plug in heater whatsoever, and I don't blame her. Stems are all purple and have been for an extremely long time, basically since I started fucking them up when they were 2 weeks old. I know I've had nute burn before by adding too much, but I stopped for a long time, and wed night was the first heavy feed like that. But like I said, I don't know now that I've thought about it, if it was 1 or 2 tablespoons with my two gallons. If it was 2, I'm thinking I really fucked up bad. I think what I see going on finally is started at the tips of every leaf starts with a burnt tip. And then very gradually it's turning yellow all the way up the leaf. Again, just a theory. But my temps aren't the best, and I have the fabric pots sitting on the mylar of the tent.
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- #95
swwilson20
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Here's the best one. But it's got some yellowing on the new stuff. This is what I think is doing all the damage, the nutes. This is just my theory, and I certainly appreciate yours kind sir, as I am not at all certain I am right. Also, I'm starting to see this same banded stuff start to happen I think to this one.
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- #96
swwilson20
New Member
Another thing I'm thinking is the oter two are suffering the same thing, but at a higher rate than the best one? And once again, you are right. Being away was a good thing (I think, or am I overthinking this, or missing something, consistantly, every single time). Sorry for rambling again. Here's the other two, which I may or may not have overwatered. There's a ton of dead yelowing leaves that I took off.
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- #97
swwilson20
New Member
They are still growing though.. I'm gonna ramble some more my man. Another monkey on my back is growing three plant for this long in veg, in a small tent. The best one is trying hard, real hard. And these other two shitty ones get the same treatment. I think I'm juggling too much, especially since I'm going out of town now, and I effing knew this would happen. I don't have any say in the matter when it happens. And it's happened before where I was outta town for 6 months, coming home every weekend. I think I should toss these other two and focus on the good one. I can't tie her down much more and she needs it.. I think it would be best, but I want to shoot this by you first.
I won't be at a computer for a few more days. So I will respond more then. In soil you really water about once a week and give nutes once every 2 or 3 waterings. So back off and run then at half recommended concentration. The recommended concentration is foe a perfect optimized grow.
I just popped 3 out of 4 ak-48 seeds in my box about a week ago. This is the first time in about 4 years that iv been in the position to be able to put on a grow and its my first time with this strain all others have been bag seed or local strains that have been around my parts since the 80's lol. What iv read is that this strain is a light feeder and mine have deep purple stemming aswell and most of the pics iv seen all purple. If the plant is a light feeder it may aswell be a light drinker to so it probably dont use that much water or dose it? Iv had plants in the past that no matter the temps (high or low) they would suck a 5 gallon bucket of over waterd soil bone dry in 3 to 5 days lol. P.s being able to follow your journal/journey here is what made me join up on 4:20mag so thanks for that bro and dont stress just ride it out with all your plants and see what they can and cant take. That way you know what to expect on your next go around becouse truth be told its just a plant and as long as it has green tips and the buds forming you will have a little something to smoke at the end and if not hell with thos strain right lol 
keep up the good work bro im definitely going to stay tuned on your thread more so then all the others.
keep up the good work bro im definitely going to stay tuned on your thread more so then all the others.- Thread starter
- #100
swwilson20
New Member
Well I'm glad you chose 420mag, especially cuz of this journal! I can't say either way of the rate it sucks up water, I've had to wait 15 days or so to water, but I honestly thought it could be the soil I'm using, not really sure. I'm just frustrated and wanted to grab some foilage and start ripping it out of my tent when I came home last.. and now I'm working out of town all the sudden, although that might be a good thing I'm away from them now, and I'm nervous about it.. Anyways, make a journal man, let's figure out what this lady wants!
I'm away from them now, and I'm nervous about it.. Anyways, make a journal man, let's figure out what this lady wants!Similar threads
