Derbybud
Well-Known Member
This will all be setup in my basement. I'm getting pump to have a setup like this and I don't even smoke. This is all for my daughter as I get drug tested because we mfg flight hardware. Damn I need a different job
Brix! The Quest For Grade AAA Organic Cannabis
- Thread starter
- #102
BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
Wow your daughter is a lucky lady! Very cool to have a parent supply good clean buds. Who knows what you get when you buy at a dispensary. A 4x8 should keep her going for a while nice! Thats awesome you make flight hardware. You could probably make a real cool rail system for your boards if you have access to a cnc. Growing is super addicting! I started in coco! Are you planning on switching to the kit? All the journals ive seen even the people just starting in the kit, their buds always look amazing. I cant wait for this grow to start.
Derbybud
Well-Known Member
Going to keep with coco for a while. Once I feel I have things going good enough I night look into other things. Unfortunately I live in a state that doesn't even have dispensaries so on the open street black market you're really are gambling. My daughter has many medical conditions and in less than a year of this great plant had gone from 24 meds a day to 8. I lost my son 6 years ago to a car accident so my daughter is the last child I have and will do anything for her. Sorry for the rant but at times I just don't feel she deserves the hand she had been dealt. Don't get me wrong back in the 70s and 80s I was a big stoner and with this aching old body I would definitely partake I'm some of my wares. Still rambling so I'm out
Life is a cruel mistress and doesnt make sense at times, just have to keep moving forward everyday.
- Thread starter
- #105
BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
Aw man im very sorry to hear that! But it brings me joy to see how much cannabis has alleviated your daughters illness. 24 down to 8 is incredible! Coco was great for me to learn in and to get to know the plants. Corrections are quick in coco and easy to get huge yields i think its perfect for new growers but the quality that organic provides. Wow ive never had weed like that from my first attempt at organic coco. Its really hard to make coco work for organics but it made me realize there was a big enough difference in quality that i had to put down for a kit. I look forward making cco and naturally decarbed sap using 200proof alcohol and clean organic buds that haven't been sprayed with any chem. I look forward to using cco/ND Sap for when im out and about. Maybe something your daughter could use. I can pm you the link to ND sap if you like. Basically its cco without adding heat to the product so you keep more terps in the final product. The terps are supposed to add more medical value to the oil but i cant confirm. Hope you can spark one up soon but they also have cdb oils derived from hemp so no thc. May help yiu aches. My brother was telling me how much it helps him. Good luck on your journey man sending lots of good vibes your way and please don't apologize for ranting in my thread.
My grandma always said life is a fart in a bag, when you open the bag it stinks!
Derbybud
Well-Known Member
Yeh BF if you could send me that link to the ND sap that would be great. Looking forward to making cco and budder also so my daughter has different ways of consuming her meds. Thanks again
Derbybud
Derbybud
- Thread starter
- #107
BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
Ok i feel this info needs to be shared!
The Explanation!
This lady talks about cco and towards the end of the thread discovers ND Sap! Its a read for sure. First post fearuring ND starts 7/16/14
"May be better than RSO, not confirmed yet, but sure seems to be the whoop. The batch of QWISO hash I have been vaping is about three months old now. This QWISO has not seen any heat. I have been ingesting a small dose about once every two weeks just to see if it would naturally decarb. Now that it has been just about three months, I ate a dose and I got baked! Kind of over baked actually. The buzz was different than RSO. This may be a better medicinal choice. No heat required, no tools required. I will be discussing more about this soon."
"Well day three of eating the winterized QWISO that has naturally decarbed:
It was winterized with 192 proof vodka.
After winterizing it removed all of the flavanoids and probably other good things. For a medicinal oil, I do not recommend winterizing.
The potency is right up there compared to RSO. I don't even know what I would call this oil really. I guess maybe ND SAP? Naturally Decarbed and SAP, that fits well because to maintain the medicinal properties of the oil it will have to stay at a consistency of runny or thick sap depending on the solvent and strains. Really I think I prefer 190 proof or higher organic or grain alcohol. Then you don't have to be so concerned with the product being fully purged and also keep it at a sap state. Then you will know for sure that all of the terpines and CBDs are in the oil. I am starting to believe that this is very important. Adding any heat that takes it above 100 degrees F can potentially degrade the product by evaporating all of the turpines and possibly some CBDs. With RSO, there are no terpines and much of the CBDs have been destroyed or lost in my opinion. Another great thing with this SAP that naturally decarbs is it will not require large amounts of marijuana to make a batch. This is great for people that just don't have the funds available to go out and get 1/4 pound of buds to make a batch of RSO. Also, it may not be possible. Like a non resident in CO is only allowed 1/4 ounce per day. With this SAP you can get by and make your oil. The biggest inconvenience is the three month wait for it to decarb. Maybe a little less time, but also it could require a bit more time. For someone in a situation where they need the usable oil now, they can make a batch of some QWET SAP and date it, put away some for the three month decarbing. Take what you need to decarb and do so by heating the oil using a double boiler, stove top, lighter and a spoon, or even a rice cooker, there are many possibilities. Keeping in mind the alcohol has already been evaporated out. The SAP is being stored in syringes. You can always squirt a little into a small frying pan, add a little bit of alcohol, turn up the heat a little (no higher than medium) until the alcohol bubbles out. Let it cool and eat it. The longer you wait, the more it will decarb. Like when I make a batch of RSO, it doesn't seem to be really decarbed until the next day.
Basically what I am saying here is RSO is looking obsolete to me compared to this naturally decarbed oil I have discovered. I wish I had testing and proof, but keep in mind, testing does not cover all of the medicinal aspects.
The buzz seems noticeably different but just as intense as RSO. I think I may like it better. It kind of seems like a cleaner buzz. All three doses I have taken, I could feel the effects for 24 hours. With my RSO and the same size doses, I think I usually feel the effects for more like 18 hours, but I am not 100% confident on that. The length of time may be the same. What is kind of unique here is I have been growing these same strains for many years as well as producing the oil from the same strains for many years. So when there is some form of difference with my oil or one of my strains, I will notice it right away.
No need to worry about going outside with the rice cooker. Don't have to be concerned with blowing yourself up, well not as concerned, it still can be dangerous. Just blowing the fumes outside with a fan seems a lot safer to me than boiling it with a rice cooker.
When you get done harvesting your plants you don't throw them in the oven to dry them out and use right away right? Right, because it will cause damage and degrade the medicine. Well, I am starting to feel the same way about oil. Trying to decarb it early with heat, you are ruining the potential of your medicine.
I will also discuss later on how I keep it in SAP form and use grain alcohol."
"Here is some information, and my opinion of what I am trying to do. My goal is to not lose the terpines, and reduce the amount of degradation of the CBD and THC. I believe that with an oil that contains all of these elements and more, can potentially offer more medicinal properties and benefits.
In Mel Frank's book, he points out how the THC and CBDs are continuously degrading in the plant, but also being replenished during growth. Obviously, once you cut the plant down, it will only degrade from there. The buds and leaf go through the same degradation. Also, fresh shoots in vegetative stage may offer benefits that may exceed bud in some manners with CBDs and terpenes, I wish I knew.
I am going to try to convert my buds to oil within the first 30 days of harvest. I believe being stored in oil form the degradation drastically slows down to where it may take years for the medicine to degrade.
I don't want my THC, CBDs, terpines, and all of the other medicinal goodies to be sitting in a jar filled with air and decaying plant matter. I know it is a bit extreme putting it that way, but I believe it holds truth.
Here is an example of why I am believing that the terpines can be so valuable, especially for cancer, or just living in today's society, it is very polluted. This may be some of the best protection that we have. I want these things in my oil. Going by what I have read, that all of the terpines will evaporate off at around 110 degrees F.
I am more interested in the cannabis terpines, especially preserving them..."
The Explanation!
This lady talks about cco and towards the end of the thread discovers ND Sap! Its a read for sure. First post fearuring ND starts 7/16/14
"May be better than RSO, not confirmed yet, but sure seems to be the whoop. The batch of QWISO hash I have been vaping is about three months old now. This QWISO has not seen any heat. I have been ingesting a small dose about once every two weeks just to see if it would naturally decarb. Now that it has been just about three months, I ate a dose and I got baked! Kind of over baked actually. The buzz was different than RSO. This may be a better medicinal choice. No heat required, no tools required. I will be discussing more about this soon."
"Well day three of eating the winterized QWISO that has naturally decarbed:
It was winterized with 192 proof vodka.
After winterizing it removed all of the flavanoids and probably other good things. For a medicinal oil, I do not recommend winterizing.
The potency is right up there compared to RSO. I don't even know what I would call this oil really. I guess maybe ND SAP? Naturally Decarbed and SAP, that fits well because to maintain the medicinal properties of the oil it will have to stay at a consistency of runny or thick sap depending on the solvent and strains. Really I think I prefer 190 proof or higher organic or grain alcohol. Then you don't have to be so concerned with the product being fully purged and also keep it at a sap state. Then you will know for sure that all of the terpines and CBDs are in the oil. I am starting to believe that this is very important. Adding any heat that takes it above 100 degrees F can potentially degrade the product by evaporating all of the turpines and possibly some CBDs. With RSO, there are no terpines and much of the CBDs have been destroyed or lost in my opinion. Another great thing with this SAP that naturally decarbs is it will not require large amounts of marijuana to make a batch. This is great for people that just don't have the funds available to go out and get 1/4 pound of buds to make a batch of RSO. Also, it may not be possible. Like a non resident in CO is only allowed 1/4 ounce per day. With this SAP you can get by and make your oil. The biggest inconvenience is the three month wait for it to decarb. Maybe a little less time, but also it could require a bit more time. For someone in a situation where they need the usable oil now, they can make a batch of some QWET SAP and date it, put away some for the three month decarbing. Take what you need to decarb and do so by heating the oil using a double boiler, stove top, lighter and a spoon, or even a rice cooker, there are many possibilities. Keeping in mind the alcohol has already been evaporated out. The SAP is being stored in syringes. You can always squirt a little into a small frying pan, add a little bit of alcohol, turn up the heat a little (no higher than medium) until the alcohol bubbles out. Let it cool and eat it. The longer you wait, the more it will decarb. Like when I make a batch of RSO, it doesn't seem to be really decarbed until the next day.
Basically what I am saying here is RSO is looking obsolete to me compared to this naturally decarbed oil I have discovered. I wish I had testing and proof, but keep in mind, testing does not cover all of the medicinal aspects.
The buzz seems noticeably different but just as intense as RSO. I think I may like it better. It kind of seems like a cleaner buzz. All three doses I have taken, I could feel the effects for 24 hours. With my RSO and the same size doses, I think I usually feel the effects for more like 18 hours, but I am not 100% confident on that. The length of time may be the same. What is kind of unique here is I have been growing these same strains for many years as well as producing the oil from the same strains for many years. So when there is some form of difference with my oil or one of my strains, I will notice it right away.
No need to worry about going outside with the rice cooker. Don't have to be concerned with blowing yourself up, well not as concerned, it still can be dangerous. Just blowing the fumes outside with a fan seems a lot safer to me than boiling it with a rice cooker.
When you get done harvesting your plants you don't throw them in the oven to dry them out and use right away right? Right, because it will cause damage and degrade the medicine. Well, I am starting to feel the same way about oil. Trying to decarb it early with heat, you are ruining the potential of your medicine.
I will also discuss later on how I keep it in SAP form and use grain alcohol."
"Here is some information, and my opinion of what I am trying to do. My goal is to not lose the terpines, and reduce the amount of degradation of the CBD and THC. I believe that with an oil that contains all of these elements and more, can potentially offer more medicinal properties and benefits.
In Mel Frank's book, he points out how the THC and CBDs are continuously degrading in the plant, but also being replenished during growth. Obviously, once you cut the plant down, it will only degrade from there. The buds and leaf go through the same degradation. Also, fresh shoots in vegetative stage may offer benefits that may exceed bud in some manners with CBDs and terpenes, I wish I knew.
I am going to try to convert my buds to oil within the first 30 days of harvest. I believe being stored in oil form the degradation drastically slows down to where it may take years for the medicine to degrade.
I don't want my THC, CBDs, terpines, and all of the other medicinal goodies to be sitting in a jar filled with air and decaying plant matter. I know it is a bit extreme putting it that way, but I believe it holds truth.
Here is an example of why I am believing that the terpines can be so valuable, especially for cancer, or just living in today's society, it is very polluted. This may be some of the best protection that we have. I want these things in my oil. Going by what I have read, that all of the terpines will evaporate off at around 110 degrees F.
I am more interested in the cannabis terpines, especially preserving them..."
- Thread starter
- #108
BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
The How To
Mods please remove link if its an issue
Rso, Qwiso, Qwet, And Naturally Decarbed Sap-Tincture, Concentrates, And Other Essential Plant Oils - By: Grow Goddess - GrowGoddess' Blog - Michigan Medical Marijuana Association
"how I make my naturally decarbed oil-sap.
First, one ounce of bone dry buds, the best you can get. Preferably a couple of strains mixed. I like to use indica dominant strains.
-Place the ounce of bone dry buds into a 1 pint canning jar, seal the jar and place in the freezer.
-Place the solvent (190 proof or higher grain alcohol (you can use 99% iso but you want to be sure it is all purged out)) into the freezer with the buds. 1 fifth should be plenty. This is to ensure that the solvent and buds are at the same temperature.
I do not recommend using 99% iso for a solvent.
-Keep the buds and solvent in the freezer for at least 48 to 72 hours. Longer is okay.
-Quickly pour the solvent into the jar of buds to about half way. Put the lid back onto the jar and shake. The buds should just crumble. After the buds are crumbled, usually less than a minute as long as the buds are dry enough. If needed, add a bit more solvent.
-Quickly pour off the solvent through a wire mesh strainer into a bowl. Try to keep the strainer as close to the jar as possible so the bud material does not leave the jar. This will help eliminate any bud material from getting into the solvent.
-Put any bud material that remained in the strainer back into the jar and repeat the process two more times. That gives you a total of three rinses. The second and third are done more quickly and less solvent is required, just enough to soak the material.
-Now you have a bowl filled with solvent and cannabis extract. The next steps are filtering. I like to let gravity do most of the filtering for me. Allow the bowl to sit and let the sediment settle to the bottom.
-Gently pour the solvent through a reusable metal mesh coffee filter (a paper coffee filter can be used if you don’t have a reusable one).- Be sure to try to let the sediment remain in the bowl without going into the coffee filter. I like to do this a couple of times using 2 bowls, each time allowing sediment to settle to the bottom, 15 minutes up to an hour depending on your preference.
-After you feel that the solvent mixture is nice and clean and all of the sediment has been removed, it is time to transfer into a pyrex baking dish.
-Put the dish in a safe, well ventilated area, near an open window with a fan blowing across it. Use no heat; only use the fan to assist in the evaporation of the solvent.
-As the solvent evaporates, you will notice that some white foam is starting to build up. That is water from the solvent (alcohol). -I don’t allow the concentrate to dry all the way. I like to add a little more solvent (alcohol) in before the concentrate dries. It should be sappy at this point, but some water spots. So, I add a small amount of alcohol into the pyrex baking dish and stir it around. Then I will transfer the mixture into a one cup heavy duty metal measuring cup (it will not fill the cup). At this point, I will let a fan blow over the cup to help a majority of the alcohol to evaporate off.-I am accustomed to doing large quantities. For smaller quantities you will probably want to put a coin under one side of the cup so the oil will lightly puddle to one end. This part of the process will require occasional stirring, using a toothpick will be adequate, to assist in the evaporation. The quantity will dictate how much stirring is required. Once a day, twice per day, it depends on how much is in the cup. Smaller quantities may get to the desired sap state in one day. The larger the quantity the longer it will take. You must also take into account the air humidity.
-Put a coffee filter over the cup secured with a rubber band. This keeps the dust out. Place the cup in a dark well ventilated area. Let it sit and naturally evaporate until it is like a thick sap. You may have to stir it a couple of times to aid in the evaporation. This may take a week or so. The goal is to avoid heat to keep all of the medicinal properties in the oil.
-When you believe the solvent has evaporated and the concentrate is a thick sap, it is time to get it into syringes for storage. This is a process that may require very minimal heat to allow the oil to flow better into the syringe. The best way for this minimal heat that I know of is to use a seedling heating mat with a thermostat so you do not exceed 100 degrees F.-Update: I did a couple of sample runs and it was too thick to suck up into my syringes without exceeding 100-110 degrees F. A solution to this problem, especially with 99% iso, this is one of the main reasons why I don't recommend using iso. I prefer no heat whatsoever. What I had to do is suck it up into a syringe before it was fully purged. Then I injected it into a 4 gram vial. I will allow it to finish naturally purging in the vial. This is the only way I can see being able to use iso in the process. You can't really add grain alcohol to it to think it up because it will clump up and make your oil look crappy. I am starting to like a little bit of grain alcohol left behind because the oil dissolves on my tongue instantly and the medicated feeling hits me faster. So again, even with grain alcohol, if you want it fully purged, you will most likely need to use a syringe as a tool to get the more liquid oil into a small vial since it will eventually be too thick to suck it up into the syringe without exceeding the 110 Degree F limit for the terpines. This is what I am going to do for now on. I am not going to worry about it finishing purging in the vial because I am going to use organic or grain alcohol. I am really liking the idea of using the dropper for dosing.
-Once the oil is in the syringes, store them in a dark area at room temperature. Be sure to mark the date on the syringes. Keep them stored for at least 90 days. Some may require 100 days.-For this naturally decarbing oil, I don't recommend storing it in syringes. I recommend the vials or droppers that I posted links to below.
-Then you should have the best oil that you can make for medicinal use.
-Here are a couple of tips:
-Grain alcohol or organic alcohol is what I prefer and recommend as long as it is 190 proof or higher.--Here is why.
-It is safer period. It is safer when it comes to consumption. It is safer in regards to potentially breathing any fumes when evaporating. It does not stink up the room or even house like isopropyl alcohol can. It is less flammable.You can intentionally leave a little bit of the grain alcohol in the oil-sap. If that is the case, that you choose to leave some alcohol in the oil-sap, you do not want to store the oil in syringes. The remaining alcohol can expand and cause the syringes to leak. What you would want to use is a small bottle with a dropper. Preferably brown glass with a glass dropper. You can also use small vials to store the oil in whether or not you leave alcohol in the oil. If you choose to leave some alcohol in the oil-sap then I would allow it to be a consistency of warm oil, a little runny. This may be the best choice. I have not tried it yet, but I will next time. Using the dropper you can be more precise with the doses. With a touch of alcohol left it will pretty much dissolve on your tongue.
Regarding the information I posted in blue above, it is not necessary to purchase the heating pad and thermostat. With most of my strains I had to heat the oil too hot to get it to go into the syringes if I let the solvent evaporate completely. The heating pad and thermostat are nice items to have though. It is best to avoid any heat if you wish to keep all of the medicinal properties.-REMINDER: Leaving any alcohol in the concentrate while stored in syringes will most likely cause expansion and leak. I recommend to store in vials or droppers. Vials for fully purged, droppers for if you decide to leave some grain alcohol in the concentrate.
-So far at this point I have only done this once so I am speaking what I know at this time. I will do it many more times and add more information as it becomes available.-To clarify: I have done this once, but not exactly intentionally. I will however be doing it intentionally as soon as possible.
-As far as quantities, you can do as little or as much as you desire, starting with ¼ ounce of buds or ¼ pound. When doing larger quantities of course you would need to adjust the materials used to accommodate the quantity you plan on making. Smaller quantities are safer in my opinion due to the fumes involved when evaporating the solvent (alcohol).
-Sometimes I like to keep my oil in vials. I will just use a toothpick to get my dose if the oil is thick."
Mods please remove link if its an issue
Rso, Qwiso, Qwet, And Naturally Decarbed Sap-Tincture, Concentrates, And Other Essential Plant Oils - By: Grow Goddess - GrowGoddess' Blog - Michigan Medical Marijuana Association
"how I make my naturally decarbed oil-sap.
First, one ounce of bone dry buds, the best you can get. Preferably a couple of strains mixed. I like to use indica dominant strains.
-Place the ounce of bone dry buds into a 1 pint canning jar, seal the jar and place in the freezer.
-Place the solvent (190 proof or higher grain alcohol (you can use 99% iso but you want to be sure it is all purged out)) into the freezer with the buds. 1 fifth should be plenty. This is to ensure that the solvent and buds are at the same temperature.
I do not recommend using 99% iso for a solvent.
-Keep the buds and solvent in the freezer for at least 48 to 72 hours. Longer is okay.
-Quickly pour the solvent into the jar of buds to about half way. Put the lid back onto the jar and shake. The buds should just crumble. After the buds are crumbled, usually less than a minute as long as the buds are dry enough. If needed, add a bit more solvent.
-Quickly pour off the solvent through a wire mesh strainer into a bowl. Try to keep the strainer as close to the jar as possible so the bud material does not leave the jar. This will help eliminate any bud material from getting into the solvent.
-Put any bud material that remained in the strainer back into the jar and repeat the process two more times. That gives you a total of three rinses. The second and third are done more quickly and less solvent is required, just enough to soak the material.
-Now you have a bowl filled with solvent and cannabis extract. The next steps are filtering. I like to let gravity do most of the filtering for me. Allow the bowl to sit and let the sediment settle to the bottom.
-Gently pour the solvent through a reusable metal mesh coffee filter (a paper coffee filter can be used if you don’t have a reusable one).- Be sure to try to let the sediment remain in the bowl without going into the coffee filter. I like to do this a couple of times using 2 bowls, each time allowing sediment to settle to the bottom, 15 minutes up to an hour depending on your preference.
-After you feel that the solvent mixture is nice and clean and all of the sediment has been removed, it is time to transfer into a pyrex baking dish.
-Put the dish in a safe, well ventilated area, near an open window with a fan blowing across it. Use no heat; only use the fan to assist in the evaporation of the solvent.
-As the solvent evaporates, you will notice that some white foam is starting to build up. That is water from the solvent (alcohol). -I don’t allow the concentrate to dry all the way. I like to add a little more solvent (alcohol) in before the concentrate dries. It should be sappy at this point, but some water spots. So, I add a small amount of alcohol into the pyrex baking dish and stir it around. Then I will transfer the mixture into a one cup heavy duty metal measuring cup (it will not fill the cup). At this point, I will let a fan blow over the cup to help a majority of the alcohol to evaporate off.-I am accustomed to doing large quantities. For smaller quantities you will probably want to put a coin under one side of the cup so the oil will lightly puddle to one end. This part of the process will require occasional stirring, using a toothpick will be adequate, to assist in the evaporation. The quantity will dictate how much stirring is required. Once a day, twice per day, it depends on how much is in the cup. Smaller quantities may get to the desired sap state in one day. The larger the quantity the longer it will take. You must also take into account the air humidity.
-Put a coffee filter over the cup secured with a rubber band. This keeps the dust out. Place the cup in a dark well ventilated area. Let it sit and naturally evaporate until it is like a thick sap. You may have to stir it a couple of times to aid in the evaporation. This may take a week or so. The goal is to avoid heat to keep all of the medicinal properties in the oil.
-When you believe the solvent has evaporated and the concentrate is a thick sap, it is time to get it into syringes for storage. This is a process that may require very minimal heat to allow the oil to flow better into the syringe. The best way for this minimal heat that I know of is to use a seedling heating mat with a thermostat so you do not exceed 100 degrees F.-Update: I did a couple of sample runs and it was too thick to suck up into my syringes without exceeding 100-110 degrees F. A solution to this problem, especially with 99% iso, this is one of the main reasons why I don't recommend using iso. I prefer no heat whatsoever. What I had to do is suck it up into a syringe before it was fully purged. Then I injected it into a 4 gram vial. I will allow it to finish naturally purging in the vial. This is the only way I can see being able to use iso in the process. You can't really add grain alcohol to it to think it up because it will clump up and make your oil look crappy. I am starting to like a little bit of grain alcohol left behind because the oil dissolves on my tongue instantly and the medicated feeling hits me faster. So again, even with grain alcohol, if you want it fully purged, you will most likely need to use a syringe as a tool to get the more liquid oil into a small vial since it will eventually be too thick to suck it up into the syringe without exceeding the 110 Degree F limit for the terpines. This is what I am going to do for now on. I am not going to worry about it finishing purging in the vial because I am going to use organic or grain alcohol. I am really liking the idea of using the dropper for dosing.
-Once the oil is in the syringes, store them in a dark area at room temperature. Be sure to mark the date on the syringes. Keep them stored for at least 90 days. Some may require 100 days.-For this naturally decarbing oil, I don't recommend storing it in syringes. I recommend the vials or droppers that I posted links to below.
-Then you should have the best oil that you can make for medicinal use.
-Here are a couple of tips:
-Grain alcohol or organic alcohol is what I prefer and recommend as long as it is 190 proof or higher.--Here is why.
-It is safer period. It is safer when it comes to consumption. It is safer in regards to potentially breathing any fumes when evaporating. It does not stink up the room or even house like isopropyl alcohol can. It is less flammable.You can intentionally leave a little bit of the grain alcohol in the oil-sap. If that is the case, that you choose to leave some alcohol in the oil-sap, you do not want to store the oil in syringes. The remaining alcohol can expand and cause the syringes to leak. What you would want to use is a small bottle with a dropper. Preferably brown glass with a glass dropper. You can also use small vials to store the oil in whether or not you leave alcohol in the oil. If you choose to leave some alcohol in the oil-sap then I would allow it to be a consistency of warm oil, a little runny. This may be the best choice. I have not tried it yet, but I will next time. Using the dropper you can be more precise with the doses. With a touch of alcohol left it will pretty much dissolve on your tongue.
Regarding the information I posted in blue above, it is not necessary to purchase the heating pad and thermostat. With most of my strains I had to heat the oil too hot to get it to go into the syringes if I let the solvent evaporate completely. The heating pad and thermostat are nice items to have though. It is best to avoid any heat if you wish to keep all of the medicinal properties.-REMINDER: Leaving any alcohol in the concentrate while stored in syringes will most likely cause expansion and leak. I recommend to store in vials or droppers. Vials for fully purged, droppers for if you decide to leave some grain alcohol in the concentrate.
-So far at this point I have only done this once so I am speaking what I know at this time. I will do it many more times and add more information as it becomes available.-To clarify: I have done this once, but not exactly intentionally. I will however be doing it intentionally as soon as possible.
-As far as quantities, you can do as little or as much as you desire, starting with ¼ ounce of buds or ¼ pound. When doing larger quantities of course you would need to adjust the materials used to accommodate the quantity you plan on making. Smaller quantities are safer in my opinion due to the fumes involved when evaporating the solvent (alcohol).
-Sometimes I like to keep my oil in vials. I will just use a toothpick to get my dose if the oil is thick."
Derbybud
Well-Known Member
Dude that is awesome. Thanks so much for that.
Excellent tutorial
Derbybud
Well-Known Member
Can't wait to try it
- Thread starter
- #112
BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
Hydro shop keep pushing the delivery back. Saying monday. Called around no one else has it or its more expensive to ship in. Gotta wait for the promix.
You would think where you're at promix woul be in every store within 20 miles. Lol
- Thread starter
- #114
BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
They all have sunshine mix but gotta order the promix
Tell them this is 2017 at 420 magazine, time to get with the program. .
- Thread starter
- #116
BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
Think its just the season. One of them did carry it but didnt or wont restock until next season but did offer to order one for me. The bale should be in tomorrow
Ok that's cool that he would order for you.
calicanna143
Well-Known Member
I'm sorry to hear your having a hard time getting what you need, hopefully it will work out this time
LedGuy74
Well-Known Member
Sucks when you can't find your soil locally... shit is way to expensive to buy online... my Fox farms happy frog costs me 19.99$ for 3 C.U which is damn nice... a 12 quart bag will cost 15$ on amazon and I would have to buy two for free shipping...
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BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
Yeah everyone i called offered which was nice but they shipment keeps getting delayed. Its ok though the mother tuts are going slow
Thanks cali! Fingers crossed it comes in monday but either way i have to find time to get the containers and mix so possibly not until next weekend. I need time to take clones anyways so no worries
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