Can somebody help me with these spots on my leaves

[KloUdChAseR]

Fox Farms is the name of the company. Bush Doctor is the name of a particular line of their products. The actual product is Coco Loco which is what you mention in msg #1 as being what you are using.

"... it's definitely not soil," pretty much covers it. I spent a little time and looked around with a google search trying to find out what Coco Loco contains. Basically it is coco coir along with aged forest products, perlite, earthworm castings, bat guano, Norwegian kelp meal, oyster shell and dolomite lime. Not one link for the product, including links on the Fox Farms web site mentions any soil in a list of Coco Loco ingredients. They info might be there but I did not find it.

"Potting Soil" is on the front and back of the bag but that does not mean it is a soil. It is meant to be used as a soil substitute to fill a flower pot and put a plant in it. The plant will grow, it will produce some nice flowers and by the end of the summer the potting soil mix will be worn out. It is not intended to be used to get that plant beyond the flowering stage and actually producing the quantity of ripe buds that we want for our recreational or medical uses without adding additional fertilizers and nutrients into the mix at the start of the grow or along the way to the final week. You have pretty much gotten the plant as far as it will go without some help.

Whatever you do now is unlikely to cure the plant but it will slow down the problems and maybe even stop them.

Go to the Fox Farms web site and click on "Contact Us". When the new page opens up find the line called "Product Support" and when that opens up scroll down to the several lines for "Customer Service/Product Support" and skip most of the other stuff since it is support for wholesale and commercial customers. Under "Customer Support" is the phone number for their office in Arcata, CA and the hours they are open. If it was me I would ask three questions.

One is "what should the pH of the water be if I was only watering the Coco Loco?". The second one is just as important and is "What should the pH of the water solution be after the nutrients are added and mixed up?". I would not be surprised if it is lower than the 6.5 that you have been using.

The third question is asking them to send you all the feeding or fertilizing schedules and the lists of products from soil mixes to nutrients to additives. I had called them in the early spring and talked about the various schedules I had collected over the past 4-5 years and they mailed me all the current/latest info plus pamphlets on their products. I called right after they opened in their time zone (Pacific Time) and a fat envelope arrived within 2 days.

Just for the fun of it, while you are waiting for the mail to arrive do a google search to find out what "aged forest products" really are.

I'm going to definitely call them, thanks for this Info it was very helpful.

 

[KloUdChAseR]

I would also like to confirm that our OP is using the FF nutrients exactly as described on the feeding chart? I would ask FF which feeding chart you should use, the soil or the hydro chart. I think I am seeing too much N in this plant, which indicates to me that you are using the grow big product in excess as to what is recommended on the feeding chart, not on the side of the bottle.

I would think that pH is also an issue here, but maybe not so much as in a soil grow because of the coco being designed to hold an extra amount of water in this designer soil substitute.

I also am thinking that a full 3x flush is needed too. Fox Farm nutrients are known for heavy salt leftovers, and FF labs recommends flushing one of their grows several times... salt lockout could easily be helping to block the access to Ca which is a macro nutrient after all.

Awesome, thank you. You absolutely correct about the FF nutes having alot of salt buildup bc I can see it on the tops of the bottles how it crusts up. I wasn't aware that FF suggests 3x flush throughout the grow ND you were the first person to actually understand what I was growing in. As for the to much N, that's just my camera, the leaves are not really that dark. I have to switch phones bc my camera on this one is cracked and I have the new one, I've just been being lazy bc then I have to switch over all my apps and 2FA's which I don't know where I put half the passwords. I just started a new grow with 4 plants a week in with all coco-loco soil mix so I can really experiment, and I am germinating 2 more rite now to grow in a living soil mix. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[KloUdChAseR]

That looks like a PH problem. I would flush it with plain water and after a few days water with a 1/2 strength solution and make sure your ph is in the correct range. I'm not sure what you have for a PH meter but make sure whatever you're using is accurate. I have experienced this before and this system has worked for me. Hope this helps and good luck

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Emilya Green]

Awesome, thank you. You absolutely correct about the FF nutes having alot of salt buildup bc I can see it on the tops of the bottles how it crusts up. I wasn't aware that FF suggests 3x flush throughout the grow ND you were the first person to actually understand what I was growing in. As for the to much N, that's just my camera, the leaves are not really that dark. I have to switch phones bc my camera on this one is cracked and I have the new one, I've just been being lazy bc then I have to switch over all my apps and 2FA's which I don't know where I put half the passwords. I just started a new grow with 4 plants a week in with all coco-loco soil mix so I can really experiment, and I am germinating 2 more rite now to grow in a living soil mix. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I suggest a good proper 3x flush to reset everything and then come in with the next feeding at 5.8 pH. I'm not even certain you will need calmag as a supplement after that.

 

[SmokingWings]

I wasn't aware that FF suggests 3x flush throughout the grow

Once you get a copy of the Fox Farm feeding schedule you will notice when they recommend that the 'flushing' take place.

 

[KloUdChAseR]

I suggest a good proper 3x flush to reset everything and then come in with the next feeding at 5.8 pH. I'm not even certain you will need calmag as a supplement after that.

Awesome. I will try that again and water with a 5.8 PH

 

[KloUdChAseR]

Once you get a copy of the Fox Farm feeding schedule you will notice when they recommend

Once you get a copy of the Fox Farm feeding schedule you will notice when they recommend that the 'flushing' take place.

Awesome, thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

 

[StudioMan]

Had the same problem two years ago. Thought it was calcium deficiency like so many here have speculated. However, it turned out to be spider mites which pretty much give the same symptoms as calcium deficiency (spots on the leaves). You can determine real quick as to whether or not you have them little buggers ... Take one or more of the leaves showing the problem and turn them over to look at the underside with a magnifying lens. You'll see their little black bodies if they're there.

 

[Krissi Carbone]

I'm gonna take the plant out of the tent and get a few nice close ups and give a better rundown. Thanks for the reply.

Hi and Thank you! It was so hard to tell when she is under that light!!! How are things today? As Smoking said, can't fix that now, been way too long but moving forward, add in that Bush Doctor or another Cal Mag variety with every feeding or at least once a week to prevent that from happening in the future and also check your pH often to make sure you are able to uptake their nutrients ..edit..didn't mean to hit save lol

 

[bluter]

Had the same problem two years ago. Thought it was calcium deficiency like so many here have speculated. However, it turned out to be spider mites which pretty much give the same symptoms as calcium deficiency (spots on the leaves). You can determine real quick as to whether or not you have them little buggers ... Take one or more of the leaves showing the problem and turn them over to look at the underside with a magnifying lens. You'll see their little black bodies if they're there.

you need to watch for mites early. the best time to fix them is when you first notice white spots on the fan leaves. you should examine those leaves carefully with a loupe for signs of eggs or live mites.

you've pretty much lost the battle if it gets far enough to look like a nute problem.

 

[StudioMan]

you've pretty much lost the battle if it gets far enough to look like a nute problem.

That certainly may be the case the majority of the time. I guess I was lucky. My local nursery experts guided me to some chemical (can't remember the name right off ... but I've seen it mentioned in this forum) that I sprayed on the plant leaf undersides. It definitely got rid of the little pests within 3 days. The plants survived and produced a fairly good yield/potency. No one was more shocked than I was with that result!

 

[cbdhemp808]

Yes, looks like necrosis caused by either under fertilizing or over fertilizing ("nutrient burn"). It could be a calcium or phosphorous deficiency. The flower growth is very vigorous, so perhaps not enough phosphorous to support that.

My approach is to make my own growing medium. High quality coco coir is one of my ingredients. I use mostly Down To Earth fertilizers – all the essentials. I also usually mix in some liquid nitrogen fert when watering, up until about a week before harvesting.

Watch out for the necrosis – mold likes to get started on dead material. If those were my flowers, I would be clipping off the affected leaves religiously. This is what I do in my climate here in Hawaii, which is very humid. Otherwise, mold is invited and the buds can be lost. In my case, I also monitor carefully how many stigmas have gone brown (hairs on the flowers), and actually harvest a bit earlier than optimum in terms of trichome development. I use a spray of hydrogen peroxide in distilled water to inhibit the mold as needed.

For bugs, I make a spray of neem oil, peppermint Bronner's soap, and a very small amount of food grade orange oil (pure limonene), mixed in water. I spray this on top and bottom of leaves, and anywhere bugs are seen. The limonene is a potent insecticide, but be very careful how much you use, otherwise it will burn the leaves.

 

[bluter]

That certainly may be the case the majority of the time. I guess I was lucky. My local nursery experts guided me to some chemical (can't remember the name right off ... but I've seen it mentioned in this forum) that I sprayed on the plant leaf undersides. It definitely got rid of the little pests within 3 days. The plants survived and produced a fairly good yield/potency. No one was more shocked than I was with that result!

just be careful in flower. never use toxics in flower. you can be more aggressive in veg, but be careful then as well.

 

[StudioMan]

just be careful in flower. never use toxics in flower

Yep ... read all about that before I used the stuff I did. The plants were still well within veg state at the time. Thanks for the advice reinforcing that.

For bugs, I make a spray of neem oil

Neem oil! That's the ingredient I was having a brain fart over. The stuff my nursery experts gave me had that as one of several primary ingredients.

 

[KloUdChAseR]

you need to watch for mites early. the best time to fix them is when you first notice white spots on the fan leaves. you should examine those leaves carefully with a loupe for signs of eggs or live mites.

you've pretty much lost the battle if it gets far enough to look like a nute problem.

I don't see any bugs but for the occasional soil gnat. I do have neem oil but I do t think bugs are the problem. I just recently flushed so I'm watching new growth to see if the problem is going away. I am pretty close to harvest, the buds are already loaded with trycomes so I just need her to hold out for abt another week or 2.

 

[KloUdChAseR]

Yes, looks like necrosis caused by either under fertilizing or over fertilizing ("nutrient burn"). It could be a calcium or phosphorous deficiency. The flower growth is very vigorous, so perhaps not enough phosphorous to support that.

My approach is to make my own growing medium. High quality coco coir is one of my ingredients. I use mostly Down To Earth fertilizers – all the essentials. I also usually mix in some liquid nitrogen fert when watering, up until about a week before harvesting.

Watch out for the necrosis – mold likes to get started on dead material. If those were my flowers, I would be clipping off the affected leaves religiously. This is what I do in my climate here in Hawaii, which is very humid. Otherwise, mold is invited and the buds can be lost. In my case, I also monitor carefully how many stigmas have gone brown (hairs on the flowers), and actually harvest a bit earlier than optimum in terms of trichome development. I use a spray of hydrogen peroxide in distilled water to inhibit the mold as needed.

For bugs, I make a spray of neem oil, peppermint Bronner's soap, and a very small amount of food grade orange oil (pure limonene), mixed in water. I spray this on top and bottom of leaves, and anywhere bugs are seen. The limonene is a potent insecticide, but be very careful how much you use, otherwise it will burn the leaves.

I'm thinking at this point the problem is under fertilizing. I am still new to this and still experimenting so I am still trying to come up with a grow scenario that works for me as far as medium and nutrients. It's just weird that the other two plants are doing great, I actually just harvested the sister plant to the one I am having problems with and got a pretty nice yield. I sprouted 4 seeds 2 weeks ago that I am going to try different grow and fertilization techniques with.

 

[KloUdChAseR]

Hi and Thank you! It was so hard to tell when she is under that light!!! How are things today? As Smoking said, can't fix that now, been way too long but moving forward, add in that Bush Doctor or another Cal Mag variety with every feeding or at least once a week to prevent that from happening in the future and also check your pH often to make sure you are able to uptake their nutrients ..edit..didn't mean to hit save lol

Well she still looks the same, I flushed her and I am keeping an eye on all the new growth. She is saturated with trychomes, I just need her to stay strong for me for another 2 weeks. I think she will be ok bc her buds are still getting fatter and producing new growth. So we will see what happens.

 

[Krissi Carbone]

Well she still looks the same, I flushed her and I am keeping an eye on all the new growth. She is saturated with trychomes, I just need her to stay strong for me for another 2 weeks. I think she will be ok bc her buds are still getting fatter and producing new growth. So we will see what happens.

This late in the game with her, she is gonna make it. If there was a chance she wouldn't, it would be glaringly obvious. No big deal, really. Next round, start a journal early like when you drop seeds so we can follow and you can reach out or we can much earlier. I think regardless, she will bring you a beautiful smoke and harvest. How are you drying and curing?

 

[StudioMan]

I don't see any bugs but for the occasional soil gnat. I do have neem oil but I do t think bugs are the problem. I just recently flushed so I'm watching new growth to see if the problem is going away. I am pretty close to harvest, the buds are already loaded with trycomes so I just need her to hold out for abt another week or 2.

Cool deal ... if you're that close to harvest, you should be OK. Let us all know how your grow turned out!

 

[nivek]

wow,, what a cornucopia of info goin on here

one week into this thread and not much progress on finding a solution

it is difficult to isolate an issue by trying to fix with several adjustments at once

i personally have seen tremendous results with a simple ph adjustment, and again, i personally adjust my ph down to the 5.5 range,, because the charts verify my thinking and i have seen the improvements with me own eyes