Actually, I recently saw Doc post that, all things being considered, he'd rather go with spring water than RO. But I hadn't thought about buffering agents. Still, I've seen Doc accept most city water that was 100 Total Alkalinity or so.
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
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Actually, I recently saw Doc post that, all things being considered, he'd rather go with spring water than RO. But I hadn't thought about buffering agents. Still, I've seen Doc accept most city water that was 100 Total Alkalinity or so.
Dutty Panty
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Dutty Panty
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That's nothing like they sent me when I requested it. I'll go in tomorrow and grab the report I got earlier this year. That's last well now 2 ago.
Yeah, they don't give you much with that public report. But if your watershed is mountain reservoir, you should be good. Not much calcium in those rocks. 
Dutty Panty
New Member
Mountain is a stretch. Foothills of the cascades though. Yeah I've never had water issues before. I bought the ro out of hype cause of the chloramine. But once I quit using it I noticed no change.
I don't think you need to sweat it. Find a charcoal filter you like and run it through that. Keep the rest of your routine the same. That should make it fine, unless you get a big surprise when you get a full report.
Dutty Panty
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I'll be alright I can get report tomorrow probably wont receive kit till Thursday then I got 30 days. I'll be posting again once I start mixing and if I read anymore stuff that I question.
Graytail is right about the kit being ok for tap if your tap is good. Shit I live in hawaii and love the tap water I drink. It's 250-300ppm. Couldn't find reports on Total Alkalinity, and didn't buy a pool test kit, but figured it was ok. Not so. Fucked with my first few kit grows. Got a system and promptly grew the nicest plants I've seen in my garden. Now I always use RO. I'd certainly do away with it if I could.
Dutty Panty
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Hey tavosvo oahu?
LOL, yeah, Dutty ... I forgot to mention that I totally fubared my soil too, with bad city water - TA of almost 300.
So we've tried the bad city water and that turned out to be a disappointing choice. I'm using RO now. But I still would bet your water is good.
Dutty Panty
New Member
Got a way off topic question sorry. Mg deficiency seems to appear with Dj shorts f13 alot not just my grow but others as well.
I've tried a ton of magnesium products ie:Cal mag, epsom, etc etc. Why with this strain has anyone seen a strain be this mag hog before.
Sorry off topic but alot of other experienced growers seem to look at this.
I've tried a ton of magnesium products ie:Cal mag, epsom, etc etc. Why with this strain has anyone seen a strain be this mag hog before.
Sorry off topic but alot of other experienced growers seem to look at this.
Yessir!
Dutty Panty
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I lived there for awhile down on ala moana at discovery bay and at the trade winds. I grew in the trade winds lol. Like 11 years ago lol. I also lived in kaneohe by the mall. Man such a trip living there. Made a ton running a bar and growing but man I blew it all. I do miss bellows and valley of the temples as well as stair way to heaven
Yes, I have cross bred in HB soil. A couple of autos I bred, the seeds of these are now growing.
I also had and presently started seeds from a plant of unknown, strain, doc thought it a TrainWreck of some combo. I am growing these now as well, plus others. Journal to come. 
I got a question about the difference between 1st and 2nd run HB soil. What makes the 2nd run better? If it is feeding it the trim, then adding trim to a first run batch, wouldn't that accomplish the same thing??
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The pH of the water is meaningless....it's the Total Alkalinity that we must pay attention to. Anything under 100 is PERFECT, better than RO. Over 100 and under 200 is workable, but your soil will become full of bicarbonates after 2 or 3 runs, and you'll have to discard it, or let it live in the rain outside for a few months.
For foliars, AC/Dehum condensate is PERFECT. They don't require RO per se....but you shouldn't use hard water, especially if it is highly alkaline.
Yep.
Hope this works, , I was asking about when to use cationic drench, "when the buds are set" is the idea. These are shots of garden, 16 days from flip to 12/12, 5 days from first observation of pistils. Are these buds yet? Should I get ready to use the cationic?
There are four plants, in 7 gallon smart pots, 600 W LED (Mars-Hydro), vegged about 8 weeks and LSTed. There are about twelve equal heighted tops on each plant, the diameters of which are about 24". They are about 24" tall. I may have too much going on in this space but it's the first time like this and I am learning.
These plants have amazing vigor, stems are very strong, no support should be necessary strong. The leaves are not shiny like I have seen on some of the hi brix journals but I have only had like two leaf sets in three months go brown and they were are the bottom of the sea anyway.
These are AK48 clones which may not be the ideal strain for hi brix, maybe better in hydro, but I have to use what I have going right now. I have some white rhino seeds to pop when I get this technique locked down, that will be nice.
I have been watering about one gallon to each plant about once a week, 3/4 from the bottom, 1/4 from the top. Seems to like it. Using transplant, tea and growth energy.
One other thing to mention, this strain doesn't seem to "stretch" like I read about, grew about two inches since the flip, I built at scrog cage to help out but it won't ever reach it I don't think. No big deal, it's nice to know that they won't out grow the environment at least heightwise.
So, how to use cationic drench? Amount of cationic (ml. per plant) and technique to utilize would be great to know, I want that resin. (These are naturally resinous anyway!).
Thanks for help!
Skibum
, I was asking about when to use cationic drench, "when the buds are set" is the idea. These are shots of garden, 16 days from flip to 12/12, 5 days from first observation of pistils. Are these buds yet? Should I get ready to use the cationic?There are four plants, in 7 gallon smart pots, 600 W LED (Mars-Hydro), vegged about 8 weeks and LSTed. There are about twelve equal heighted tops on each plant, the diameters of which are about 24". They are about 24" tall. I may have too much going on in this space but it's the first time like this and I am learning.
These plants have amazing vigor, stems are very strong, no support should be necessary strong. The leaves are not shiny like I have seen on some of the hi brix journals but I have only had like two leaf sets in three months go brown and they were are the bottom of the sea anyway.
These are AK48 clones which may not be the ideal strain for hi brix, maybe better in hydro, but I have to use what I have going right now. I have some white rhino seeds to pop when I get this technique locked down, that will be nice.
I have been watering about one gallon to each plant about once a week, 3/4 from the bottom, 1/4 from the top. Seems to like it. Using transplant, tea and growth energy.
One other thing to mention, this strain doesn't seem to "stretch" like I read about, grew about two inches since the flip, I built at scrog cage to help out but it won't ever reach it I don't think. No big deal, it's nice to know that they won't out grow the environment at least heightwise.
So, how to use cationic drench? Amount of cationic (ml. per plant) and technique to utilize would be great to know, I want that resin. (These are naturally resinous anyway!).
Thanks for help!
Skibum
- Thread starter
- #4,598
Adding leaf/root material from plants grown in the same soil will increase humus and CEC, making the soil better. I wouldn't add leaves from non-HB grows!
What happens when calcium isn't available to the plant is that potassium substitutes in the cell wall. Adding these types of leaves makes your HB soil LB soil...."low" brix.
When you have abundant calcium and the microbiology to get it into the plant, the stems become very, very strong and the plant needs hardly any support, due to keeping K under control and having Ca part of the cell wall as it should be. So, we add HB leaves to HB soil!
- Thread starter
- #4,599
Hope this works,
There are four plants, in 7 gallon smart pots, 600 W LED (Mars-Hydro), vegged about 8 weeks and LSTed. There are about twelve equal heighted tops on each plant, the diameters of which are about 24". They are about 24" tall. I may have too much going on in this space but it's the first time like this and I am learning.
These plants have amazing vigor, stems are very strong, no support should be necessary strong. The leaves are not shiny like I have seen on some of the hi brix journals but I have only had like two leaf sets in three months go brown and they were are the bottom of the sea anyway.
These are AK48 clones which may not be the ideal strain for hi brix, maybe better in hydro, but I have to use what I have going right now. I have some white rhino seeds to pop when I get this technique locked down, that will be nice.
I have been watering about one gallon to each plant about once a week, 3/4 from the bottom, 1/4 from the top. Seems to like it. Using transplant, tea and growth energy.
One other thing to mention, this strain doesn't seem to "stretch" like I read about, grew about two inches since the flip, I built at scrog cage to help out but it won't ever reach it I don't think. No big deal, it's nice to know that they won't out grow the environment at least heightwise.
So, how to use cationic drench? Amount of cationic (ml. per plant) and technique to utilize would be great to know, I want that resin. (These are naturally resinous anyway!).
Thanks for help!
Skibum
Let 'em go another week and then Cat drench. More buds will have formed by then. It would appear that one of two things is happening:
1. You've had a couple very cold nights that slightly stalled them
2. Daytime temps aren't high enough and night temps are too high and they've been over watered.
No big deal, they'll recover. Keep night temps at about 68 and day temps about 78 and don't overwater and you'll be just fine. Double up the Tea on the next watering and your microherd will be happier.
Don't get me wrong, those are really nice plants! These are just a couple environmental tips that will take everything into the zone of shiney, waxy leaves, etc.
Your brix appears to be about 11 or 12...barely there, but there! Good things await.
Ah damn Doc. OK so now what?! I did add non high brix leaves to my cooking soil and it has been gobbled up. I would say it was about a handful of them. Am I screwed??
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