Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc, I've reread this journal. Only one exchange troubles me. And it need not be. Thanks for your ability to look both into the future and to the past to improve our passion... and skills! You see alot. I've also been a fan of 420fied grows and innovations, specifically, his blue planet nutrient grows. So you know I'm not just some stoner, I graduated hs early, passed hs physics and bio and math classes, senior grade as a freshman, graduated bs EE in 3 years, military service, accomplished guitarist and pianist...If i ONLY UNDERSTOOD MONEY...anyway. You and 420fied remind me of a favorite band. Def Leppard had two guitarist ...Steve Clark and Phil Collen. Steve was sloppy but an emotional and gifted guitar player. He played with all his heart. Phil is a technician, he plays perfectly and understands his next move and how it advances his art. They were so complementary that they became the best band in the world for awhile. You two need to get your shit together and play together for a minute. Why? Because all your fans will prosper. Grow a BPN grow, looking to 420fied only for advise. 420fied...please, grow a high brix grow and look to doc for help! We're all gonna be tuned in...
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc, I'm insanely jealous of the look of your fan leaves near harvest. Right now, mine are not so nearly healthy although my tops are frosty. C'mon tricomes!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

WOW!!! Man Doc, those 2 strains really blow me away every time you grow them, I can't wait to get my hands on Cherry Pie someday. Looking at everything makes me say to myself "if I only had more space"...Beautiful grow indeed (as usual). :passitleft:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

WOW!!! Man Doc, those 2 strains really blow me away every time you grow them, I can't wait to get my hands on Cherry Pie someday. Looking at everything makes me say to myself "if I only had more space"...Beautiful grow indeed (as usual). :passitleft:

I wish you had more space too. Your buds have that candy look to them. They're gonna be so damn good.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

As fate would have it...It looks like I scored a 12x24 room :D It wont be available until june but that will give me enough time to grab what I need for it :D:high-five: I did get a 600w ballast too for the taller of my 2 tents.

12x24? That's awesome! My rooms are 12x12 with 10 foot ceilings. You've got an ideal situation coming your way! June will be here fast.....in time for the next generation of custom soil drenches!

BTW, here's a couple updates.....wait, is this my journal.....yep. OK:

1.)The Lemon Paki that got the cationic drench early on are going to yield less than normal.
2.)The Jack Herer that got the cationic drench early on is going to yield freakishly more than normal. I'm going to say 7oz on one plant.
3.)THC levels seem to be WAY UP in the low yielding lemon Paki. (they are unbelievably resinous, even if the bud structure isn't what it usually is.)

One of the lower branches on a Lemon Paki fell over, so I plucked it, dipped it in RO Water up and down, and hung it without a trim. 6 days later, I peeled back the frosty fan leaves and revealed the most amazing bud I've even grown....glittering in frost, sticky, stinky and dense.

It smoked perfectly and had amazing flavor. The wash seemed to have gotten rid of any trace of foliar sprays. The flavor is still stronger than the "scented steam" I was getting before, but it's delicious. I think people might like the stronger flavor, others might prefer the milder flavor.....I know how to obtain both if need be.

HOwever, I haven't been that high in a few years. I smoked a bowl.....no big deal, right? Holy crap! I thought I could feel the deep, long cycle pulses of the earth! My head hasn't felt that way since I can't remember when! Driving was out of the question.....hell, getting a glass of water in the other room took 15 minutes. I got distracted with like 4 things between here and the kitchen.

That does it! I've got the get this batch tested at the lab. I was planning on doing some extensive THC tests this month with Steep Hill Labs, in Berkely, but this recent crop of Lemon Paki is different.

Like I said, it appears the yield is down. There are very few pistils on these buds...mostly just a bunch of swolen calyx's. I've grown the Lemon Paki a bunch of times, in everything from super soil to the latest high brix soil, and the structure of these buds if different than any other grow. They've got color too......but the resin production is crazy. The bag appeal is amazing....but it looks like a different strain than regular Lemon Paki.

And the high.....wow. The wife and at least one friend agree. Crazy strong.

I can't wait to try the cherry pie and Jack that got the drench. Resin on the Jack also looks artificial.

Plants in tray "B" got the cationic drench at about week 5 of bloom. We'll see how they do!

But at this point, I'm starting to develop strain specific data for using these drenches. The sky is the limit! We're cultivating now.....
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Been lurking for awhile and considering hi brix as my organic experience has progressed.
Kudos to you Doc. Nice work here.

My question is, instead of Promix HP, might it be advisable to just start with plain peat moss
and put only what you want in it, knowing precisely what is in it without a lab report?
My reason is the dolomite in the Promix HP.

I recycle my soil currently but thinking I may just start over. I assume your kit would do just
fine with just peat and the other handful of goodies that Promix adds to make it HP.
I would think most organic guys/gals have perlite, lime, and myco on hand anyways.
50 bucks for a bale of Promix HP vs 12 bucks for a bale of peat... just sayin.

Also, would you recommend using your kit at full strength for recycling soil?

Plants look sticky sticky. :goodjob:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc, some of those Lemon Paki plants you've grown were drop-dead gorgeous! :thumb: I think I tried to talk you into entering one in the POTM contest on more than one occasion...and I still think they would have won! :)

I'm wondering...do you think the low yield was just a freak...or directly related to the increased resin and potency?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Been lurking for awhile and considering hi brix as my organic experience has progressed.
Kudos to you Doc. Nice work here.

My question is, instead of Promix HP, might it be advisable to just start with plain peat moss
and put only what you want in it, knowing precisely what is in it without a lab report?
My reason is the dolomite in the Promix HP.

I recycle my soil currently but thinking I may just start over. I assume your kit would do just
fine with just peat and the other handful of goodies that Promix adds to make it HP.
I would think most organic guys/gals have perlite, lime, and myco on hand anyways.
50 bucks for a bale of Promix HP vs 12 bucks for a bale of peat... just sayin.

Also, would you recommend using your kit at full strength for recycling soil?

Plants look sticky sticky. :goodjob:

Hey bro!

You sure could start with just plain peat moss. No problem there. The amendment would need to be custom formulated, but it could be done.

The small amount of dolomite in HP isn't an issue, because there's also calcium carbonate, and we're adding nearly a pound and a half of limestone with the kit.

ProMIx HP also comes with mycorhyzzae, which is the brand I use.

PM me if you want a bit more info about this.

Yeah Doc,you've got my full attention.
Happy in Colorado

I'll bet you are happy being out there!

Doc, some of those Lemon Paki plants you've grown were drop-dead gorgeous! :thumb: I think I tried to talk you into entering one in the POTM contest on more than one occasion...and I still think they would have won! :)

I'm wondering...do you think the low yield was just a freak...or directly related to the increased resin and potency?

The low yield isn't documented yet.....it could be the buds weigh more per volume, due to the resin. But they sure look smaller.

It's entirely the fault of the drench, and when I chose to do it.

The drench is for seed production. If you want bulky fruit and flowers, you can't use a product that skewed to reproductive growth and expect large produce. I merely used it at the wrong time for those plants....or did I use it at the right time? We'll have to see the finished product and make a determination.

However, like I said above, the sample I had yesterday was a whole new ballgame.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, what are some of the soil amendments that growers that want to achieve high brix should stay way from and why?

I have read many positive things about many different amendments that you do not use.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

n
The small amount of dolomite in HP isn't an issue, because there's also calcium carbonate, and we're adding nearly a pound and a half of limestone with the kit.

Well, thanks to you I have been able to identify the most glaring weakness of my own soil mix. Dolomite.
Pretty sure there is no chance of my soil being hi-brix capable due to high mg and will most likely start over and use my old soil to fill in some holes in the yard lol.

I will grow healthier, better plants thanks to your work here. You have given some real pearls here, whether a guy buys your kit or not. :bravo:

Next equipment purchase will no doubt be a refractometer. :thanks:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, what are some of the soil amendments that growers that want to achieve high brix should stay way from and why?

I have read many positive things about many different amendments that you do not use.

In order to achieve high brix, certain ratio's of minerals and major elements must be in balance. This part of the "method" is pure science, and not subject to opinion or debate.

Basically, you've got to have lots of calcium, most of it from limestone, soft rock phosphate and gypsum. If you use those 3 ingredients alone, 6 parts CaCo3 (calcium carbonate), 5 parts Sort Rock Phosphate, and 3 parts gypsum, you've got mineralized soil. 1 or 2 cups of this mix per bag of soil is a good place to start.

In addition to the foundational minerals, you'll want minors and trace elements. In a well designed potting soil, adding a bit of Azomite and pinch of 20 Mule Team Borax will do the trick. My older journals detail this type of mix very well.

Thinks to avoid:

Dolomite, lots of kelp, high phosphate fertilizers, compost, bentonite/montromorillionite, excess epsom salt, high potassium ferts.

I let the lab tell me how much kelp and epsom to add. It's not much. The big surprise is compost. For some reason I used to be under the impression that compost was just nothing but good, and more compost improved the soil, etc. It turns out to be almost never used in high brix gardening, unless you start with sand for you soil building blocks.

We like fishy ferts and chicken manure. We're cautious with bat guano, making sure there's no potassium, and we avoid steer manure, sea bird guano and other stuff that is common.

n

Well, thanks to you I have been able to identify the most glaring weakness of my own soil mix. Dolomite.
Pretty sure there is no chance of my soil being hi-brix capable due to high mg and will most likely start over and use my old soil to fill in some holes in the yard lol.

I will grow healthier, better plants thanks to your work here. You have given some real pearls here, whether a guy buys your kit or not. :bravo:

Next equipment purchase will no doubt be a refractometer. :thanks:

Thanks! I'm glad I've been helpful. Before you buy the brix meter, you might consider buying minerals for your soil mix. Of course, both is even better.

Also, I repeat this phrase over and over because it's so critical:

The single most important factor in your success is the environment your plants grow in. You must be able to control and stabilize the "weather" in your room at all times. I'd much prefer growing in MG soil with OC+ in a perfect environment than high brix in a suboptimal environment.

The weather trumps all.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, really just wanted to stop by and extend my gratitude for always pushing the envelope. I've followed most of your threads, going back to the hempy/OC+ days, and they're all a wealth of knowledge. Keep it up man. :goodjob:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, really just wanted to stop by and extend my gratitude for always pushing the envelope. I've followed most of your threads, going back to the hempy/OC+ days, and they're all a wealth of knowledge. Keep it up man. :goodjob:

I'm just getting started! Thanks for the encouragement.

In about 3 years, I figure I'll know what I'm doing. In about 5 years I might quality as an expert.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I'm just getting started! Thanks for the encouragement.

In about 3 years, I figure I'll know what I'm doing. In about 5 years I might quality as an expert.

Well, you're off to a bloody good start man! I'm actually just 'really, really' getting started myself... But I'd be lying if I said I didn't flower out a lady at the end of last season in a 100%perlite hempy running Nutricote(commercial line of OC+), the ease of it was beyond words. However this next season I'm hitting on some organics, but the High Brix is still mind boggling, and I see it being utilized in my future. Keep up the good work Doc, I'll definitely be sticking around. Just now I have an account, and make posts, hahaha.
 
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